Hike two of the highest summits on Snow Canyon's east rim for views seen by few. Lindy near White Rock Peak's summit with the east fork of Snow Canyon below. Red Mountain Wilderness across, on the west rim with its highest point, Snow Benchmark, the brown dome mostly covered by the tree. Trip Stats
Location: Red Cliffs National Conservation Area and Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah. Distance/Elevation gain: 4.2 miles out and back/1,150' cumulative gain. White Rock Peak = 4,870', Peak 5024' Maps/Apps: Topo Maps US, USGS Santa Clara Quad 7.5 min topo map Date Hiked: 11/30/2024 Trailhead: White Rocks Trail off of Hwy 18 north of St. George. Considerations: Experience in navigation using topo maps required as this route is not marked. Coordinates: White Rock Peak = 37.23908 , -113.64775. Peak 5024 = 37.24431, -113.64886 Geology: Navajo Sandstone, Lower Jurassic, ~180 million years ago. Native peoples: Virgin River Anasazi until ~ 1,200 AD, folowed by Shivwits Paiutes. There is a petroglyph panel nearby. Quote: "There are some good things to be said about walking. Not many, but some." - Edward Abbey Related Posts
The view west from White Rock Peak The West Canyon Road snakes through petrified sand dunes and cliffs of Snow Canyon State Park, below. Our GPX tracks starting from White Rocks Trail following canyon to White Rock Peak (bottom spur) and north to Peak 5024. These peaks rise above the east fork of Snow Canyon (left), with views of basalt flows and cinder cones to the east. North points up. One of the outstanding aspects of this hike is the magnificent views of the entire geography of Snow Canyon State Park that only a few get to see. We stand on top of its rim, while the burgeoning number of Snow Canyon visitors hike popular trails in the bottom such as Petrified Sand Dunes and Lava Flow. Now we've hiked the highest peaks on Snow Canyon's west and east rims. On the west rim, our Snow Benchmark hike reached the highest point in the beautiful Red Mountain Wilderness. On the east rim, we summited the highest peak in Snow Canyon Sate Park - Peak 5024 - along with White Rock Peak with an awesome view of the deep chasms and sheer cliffs of Snow Canyon to the west and the black cinder cones and basalt flows near the town of Veyo to the east. The gorgeous north/south Red Mountain Primitive Trail is the only rim trail in Snow Canyon State Park noted on maps. We took our friends Lindy, Jeff and Robin to White Rock's summit and Peak 5024 after we had found our way to them previously. We accessed the east rim via a pretty canyon via the sandy wash that borders Highway 18, at Winter Quarters, shown on a topo map. We found an animal trail leading up from the mouth of this steep-sided canyon to the right (north). At first, the head of this canyon looks to be blocked by a headwall, but we found a steep exit trail obviously made by hikers to avoid Class 3 or 4 obstacles. It brought us to the base of White Rock Peak where we scrambled up its north side. Our ascent canyon is unnamed as far as I know. It took a bit of navigating/maneuvering on rocky moderately steep slopes, avoiding the bouldery bed of the creek most of the way. I left a "duck" (rock trail marker using small amount of rocks, usually 2 - 4) at our creek crossing marking our entry into the creek, so we could see our way out on the return hike. However, even if we did miss this trail mark, I can still see our previous tracks on my GPS and phone on the Topo Maps US app. There was no water running at this time - only pools reflecting the yellow rocks above and the blue sky, with a thin sheet of ice in the morning. I bet the water flow after a rain in this canyon is beautiful. I'll run up here with my camera during the next rain. Pure delight awaits as you top out on the east rim. At the base of White Rock, there's a gorgeous flat area with curving ramps and flat rock stacks, and perhaps petrified sand dunes - all sorts of sandstone forms, and some highly developed biological crusts (see below). At White Rock's summit, Snow Canyon's deep chasms, made of striped white and orange Navajo Sandstone drop down to meet up with West Canyon Trail on its floor. So many Colorado Plateau elements to take in: white sandstone, accentuated with pockets of junipers, pinyon pines and prickly pear cacti undulates in many fun-to-walk forms. Orange rock-strewn peaks rise above, inviting a boulder-filled scramble to the top. I couldn't find a peak register.
Though it was almost December, the sun was warm and the day was perfect. We love hiking with Robin, Lindy and Jeff and I'm always amazed at the great friends we have met here in St. George. We did the epic Grand Canyon rim to rim hike in May with Jeff and plan on another one, this time south to north rim. We're grateful our legs can take us to these remarkable places! Our first attempts at finding White Rock Peak - climbing fractured sandstone just off the White Rocks Trail. The polygonal and checkerboard fractures in this Navajo Sandstone are caused by temperature differences: the sandstone got hot on summer days, then the shallow surface of the rock cooled down at night. However, the deeper rock remained heated, and that created enough of a temperature difference to make the sandstone fracture. Starting at bottom of canyon leading to White Rock Peak. Making our way up canyon - passing a pool with a skim of ice on the surface. You can see the dark edges of it where there was recently water. We need more rain!! The same pool as above, this time we were coming back from our first White Rock Peak hike. We eventually dropped into the canyon around the corner of this big outcrop to the right, where we found a trail on the hillside above right that took us to the base of White Rock Peak. Dropping into the bottom of the canyon to gorgeous lichen-covered sandstone, junipers and manzanitas. Getting onto what looks like a human-made trail that leads up steep, rocky terrain on left side of canyon. Fred (lower right) climbing trail leading out of canyon. We passed the dome above left on our way to Peak 5024. Nearing the top of Snow Canyon's east rim and the base of White Rock Peak, looking at the canyon we just ascended. Diamond Cinder Cone in distance on left. Another beautiful pool at the top of the canyon. Arriving at the base of White Rock Peak. Trail to summit of White Rock Peak (lower left) that goes by the large pinyon pine with stacked rocks under it. A great-looking "chasm" on the way up. Looking at Deidre Peak on the west rim across Snow Canyon's valley. Jeff and Fred near White Rock's summit. Both images above looking at Snow Canyon's west rim from White Rock's summit. Images from White Rock Peak's summit (clockwise). View to the north of Pine Valley Mountains, Sue in her element, polygonal "pillows" at the base, West Canyon Trail in Snow Canyon's East Fork. After White Rock, heading to Peak 5024 upper right. Finding a way up to the saddle below Peak 5024. Working our way to the saddle on Peak 5024's north ridge. Almost at Peak 5024's summit, the highest in Snow Canyon State Park! Peak 5024 summit: looking south at White Rock Peak upper left. Jeff, Robin and Lindy heading down toward ascent canyon. Excellent hike today! Fred heading down toward ascent canyon. Elevation profile for White Rock Peak and Peak 5024, with a cumulative gain of 1,150'. References
Loope, D. B. 2019. Hexagonal Fracture Patterns On Navajo Sandstone Crossbeds At Yellow Knolls, Washington County. Utah Geological Association Publication #48. A Field Guide to Biological Soil Crusts of Western U.S. Drylands. Bureau of Land Management. Publication 4
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Stellar views of the sheer cliff walls and chasms of Snow Canyon State Park from the highest summit of Red Mountain Wilderness.
From Red Mountain Trail looking down into one of Snow Canyon's "chasms."
This canyon traces a normal fault with the west side of it (right) dropped down from the east side.
Trip Stats
Location: The highest point in Red Mountain Wilderness, north of St. George, Utah Distance/Elevation gain: 7.2 miles out and back/900'. Trailhead = 4,688'. Summit = 5568'. Coordinates: ​Summit = 37.25134 -113.68304 Trailhead: Red Mountain Trail on Hwy 18 north of St. George. Date hiked: October 19, 2024 Maps/Apps: Topo Maps US Considerations: Red Mountain Trail becomes more faint beyond the turn-off for the Snow Canyon Overlook view. There are no trail signs. Experience with navigation/a good map are necessary. The summit of Snow Benchmark is a short scramble from the trail. Links: Red Cliffs Desert Reserve Geology: Large block of Navajo Sandstone deposited by wind in Early Jurassic period (same rock unit as Zion National Park). The "chasm" or canyon that drops into Snow Canyon traces a normal fault, caused by crustal spreading.
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Overview
Snow Benchmark, a brown juniper and pine-covered dome rises in contrast above the orange and white sheer Navajo Sandstone cliffs of northern Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah. You can see it from town if you are near the opening of Snow Canyon to the south. I've been looking at it for a few years, knowing it was the highest point in the Red Mountain Wilderness. Finally, Fred and I took two friends to its summit via the northern end of the Red Mountain Trail just north of the Diamond Cinder Cone. This hike travels the first few miles of the 9.5-mile Red Mountain Trail that treks almost due north and south on a gorgeous plateau with spectacular views of Snow Canyon State Park to its east. Its northern trailhead is just north of Diamond Valley and its southern entrance can be accessed from 200 East Street in Ivins. It's notorious for search and rescue calls due to hikers getting lost, because there are no trail signs and it's easy to lose the trail and get off into a canyon or wash. It treks across areas of slickrock, through deep sand in parts. This is one of the most gorgeous areas of Utah and I would venture to say the country. I can't believe I live so close to it. A green blanket of pinyon pines and junipers, interspersed with austere patches of bare slickrock, rises and falls, covering eroded sandstone domes and ancient sand dunes, and then abruptly ends at sheer orange and white cliffs where waterfalls tumble after a drenching rain. From this perch 1,300 feet above the canyon floor, minuscule walkers and bikers move up and down West Canyon Road in Snow Canyon State Park.
Our Hike
The first mile of the northern Red Mountain Trail begins at a large parking lot and treks over a lot of big rocks scattered on the wide trail. At an elevation above 4,500 feet, you travel through pinyon pines and Utah junipers in an undisturbed forest. Lots of prickly pear, manzanita , sagebrush and scrub oak grow in the sandy soil and in sandstone cracks. I could just sit on a pink-orange sandstone slab for awhile and breathe in the juniper and pine of this lovely place. Maybe I would get to hear the "kaw" call of a few pinyon jays. ​At 0.8 miles, reach the fence for the Red Mountain Wilderness boundary. Another mile down the trail, at 1.8 miles from the trailhead, reach the intersection for the Snow Canyon Overlook, a spectacular view with a sudden drop-off with Snow Canyon 1,600 feet below. The hike to the overlook is 0.5 miles - a left turn (south) at the intersection. Instead of taking the left trail at the intersection, keep straight on the Red Mountain Trail heading west/southwest. At 2.3 miles into the hike, the trail runs close to the rim of one of Snow Canyon State Park's deep chasms. At 3.0 miles, we found a drainage to follow up toward the summit, arriving to it in another 0.5 mile. As with a lot of other hikes in this southern Utah area, there was a lot of biological soil crusts, AKA cryptobiotic soil to avoid stepping on.
Afterward, we celebrated on a tailgate with tortilla chips and three different kinds of salsa from our local farmer's market, supplied by Robin. She brought these because that was the tradition of my hiking buddies many years ago in the Coachella Valley. After most hikes we would celebrate with chips and salsa and Corona beer with lime! Great memories - relish the good times and good life!
Hiking south on Red Mountain Trail with Snow Benchmark (rounded tree-covered dome on right) in sight.
Interesting tilted sandstone cross beds on the trail.
The first mile of Red Mountain Trail is super rocky! Entering Red Mountain Wilderness at 0.8 miles from trailhead.
Getting further into Red Mountain Wilderness with Snow Benchmark on the right horizon.
Chasm into Snow Canyon: this stream empties into the main canyon, where West Canyon Trail is.
Leaving Red Mountain Trail heading south to take a right turn (west) to summit Snow Benchmark.
We found a beautiful drainage to follow to the base of Snow Benchmark. From here on, avoiding cryptobiotic soil that covered much of this terrain.
Beauty in a tree trunk on the way up.
After ascending the drainage, the topography flattens out before the final ascent.
Picking our way through the brush and trees near the summit.
Looking back at the east wall of the huge chasm during our ascent.
Pretty easy summit to get to!
From the summit looking south into Arizona (right) and Red Mountain plateau (left).
Snow Benchmark summit - 5,568', looking southeast at Snow Canyon. The Red Mountain Trail continues south through the light-colored slickrock upper right.
Some cool stuff on the trail: Biological soil crusts, iron oxide coating(?), Sue and Fred,
apres' hike chips and salsa courtesy of Robin!!
Robin on the way down from the summit.
One last look down the chasm into Snow Canyon State Park on our way back.
A last look at Snow Benchmark from a patch of white slick rock.
Caltopo map of our tracks to Snow Benchmark from upper Red Mountain Trailhead off of Highway 18.
References
A Field Guide to Biological Soil Crusts of Western U.S. Drylands. Bureau of Land Management. ​Warren, S.D. 2014. Role of Biological Soil Crusts in Desert Hydrology and geomorphology: Implications for Military Training Operations. Biological Soil Crusts: Ecology and Management. 2001. U.S. Department of the Interior.
Walking through Tushars tundra and seeing mountain goats from afar on the highest mountain range in southern Utah.
The volcanic high Tushars looking west.
From left to right: Mount Baldy, Mount Belknap, Gold Mountain, Signal Peak.
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Hike Summary
0 - 0.7 miles: Bullion Pasture Trailhead to first high point at 11,200' 0.7 - 2.0 miles: to highest point on hike at 11,500' (this is just to saddle; option is to summit 11,673' peak) 2.0 - 3.5 miles: highest point to Copper Belt Peak summit at 11,383'
Overview
There's something about this little-known mountain range that keeps us going back. Actually, lot of things. It's a striking high volcanic range where you walk on tundra above tree line to look over southern Utah and through aspens and meadows with wildflower-lined creeks in the summer. It's only a couple of hours drive from St. George. Often times we see more mountain goats than people on the trails. So far we've hiked four of the Tushar summits, all of them over 11,000 feet. The hike to Delano Peak, the highest peak in southern Utah, is a defined and short path if approaching from the west. Hikes to Mount Holly and Shelly Baldy require a bit of cross-country navigation. ​​This hike starts and stays high, with fantastic views as you cross grassy ridges and a talus-riddled saddle to drop onto an old mining road that leads to the easily-climbed ridge to Copper Belt Peak. There's a good chance you will see mountain goats, and we did on this trip. The trail is not marked and is faint in some places, so having GPS tracks and a map is helpful. This peak gets its name from the significant copper ore deposits in this area, and in fact, Copper Belt Mine lies to its northeast. Other mines in the area are Bully Boy, Cascade, and Shamrock.
Our Hike (topo map and our tracks at end of this post)
We stayed in our favorite campground, Mahogany Cove, on Hwy 153 about 13 miles east of downtown Beaver, Utah, sleeping in the bed of our truck. It's ~ 6 miles from there to the turnoff for FR 123, a graded gravel road that goes past Big John's Flat and the trailhead to Delano Peak, and to Bullion Pasture trailhead in about 10 miles from turn-off. At this elevation, aspens had already dropped their leaves and it was chilly, but beautifully sunny. The trail begins east from the parking lot, where you see the mountain range you will be traversing through. It goes to the right of the dark copper-colored peak furthest to the left. To the right of that, a higher, broader light tan peak (Peak 11,673') is the highest on this trail. Copper Belt Peak is behind this summit. ​The trail starts out very defined for the first 0.6 miles, where you encounter your first "bump" on the ridge after walking through a wide grassy saddle. It traverses the right (south) side of this bump, where you see the next dark bump. Unless you want to climb it, the trail goes around it to the left, 1.0 mile into the hike. For another 0.6 miles, hike along a relatively flat path through grass and volcanic rock to drop down onto another grassy saddle with a close-up view of the climb to come. We met two hunters from St. George here, and we had a nice chat with them. One is also a wildlife photographer: mike_wildphoto64 on Instagram. From this saddle, it's a 250' climb to the saddle between the round dark brown peak on the left and Peak 11,673' on the right. The climb to this peak is just 100 feet above the saddle. The talus slope here is steep, so the trail climbs high towards Peak 11,673' summit to avoid too much traversing through the talus. Once past Peak 11,673', the old road to the base of Copper Belt Peak comes into view; follow it to the base of Copper Belt and then hike up its southern ridge to the summit at 11,383'!!
For the Geo-curious: Walking through Volcanic Terrain
The map below shows our tracks (blue) through a geologic map of the Tushar Mountains on Google Earth. Each of the different types of rock are recorded as map units, with their corresponding color and abbreviation. On geologic maps, yellow always denotes the youngest map unit - the Quaternary Period which is 2.5 million years ago (Ma) to present time. The oldest is the prevolcanic sedimentary rocks - 170 million years old - from the Jurassic Period (Ja) unit in blue on the right side. Even after the explosive volcanic eruptions that formed the Tushar Mountains 22 Ma, this old Jurassic unit is still revealed at the surface. ​Our tracks begin at the Bullion Pasture Trailhead (lower left) in rhyolite (Tmbl), an extrusive rock that's high in silica and the chemical equivalent of granite (an intrusive rock). It originated from the inside of the Mount Belknap Caldera. Quickly, the trail crosses over the wall of the Belknap Caldera (line formed by red "T's") After briefly crossing a Quaternary landslide (Ql), we headed into the Bullion Canyon Volcanic rocks (Tbm and Tbd), where we would spend most of the time for the rest of the hike, higher on the ridge. This hike is significant for trekking through Mount Belknap caldera (collapsed volcano following magma chamber emptying) rocks as well as Bullion Canyon volcanic rocks to the southeast, two different volcanic terrains. So much more to explore in the unique Tushars: more peaks to climb and trails to hike. We're grateful we are able to experience these beautiful places.
Geologic map of the Tushars with our hike tracks on Google Earth.
Truck shot: on our way to Bullion Pasture Trailhead on FR 123, AKA Paiute ATV Trail #01.
The trail begins at the left of this sign. Trailhead reached via FR 123 coming from the south.
Starting from the trailhead in the morning - heading to the peaks on the left with the dark "copper" colors.
​Copper Belt Peak is behind the pointy peak on the left.
A good night's sleep in our truck bed last night and we are ready to go!
Just past the trailhead.
Looking back at the trail we have just ascended (far right). I'm on the first "bump" on the ridge.
Trail goes across saddle to the left and around to the left of this next bump on the ridge (11,450').
Not too many hikes do I have to wear my puff jacket: pretty chilly this morning at 11,000 feet!
Heading to the saddle between the two peaks above my head to the right.
Looking at Peak 11,673', the highest peak on the hike, to the right of the copper-colored peak. Trail goes up through the pass between these two high points.
Approaching the lighter-colored mini-ridge where the trail descends through its low point into a lower saddle where it then ascends the flank of Peak 11,673' to the right, then traverses through the saddle on the left of the darker peak.
We ran into two fully-outfitted hunters. The man on the left is a wildlife photographer.
Trail goes up to the saddle separating the two high points above. You have the option of summiting the point on the right, which is Peak 11, 673', the highest on this hike. The trail is just to the left of this summit.
Getting closer to Peak 11,673' on the right. You can see a faint trail on the left side of it.
Looking back at hunters (left) and our trail. Mount Baldy on the right.
Ascending toward saddle with Peak 11,673', the highest point on this hike, on Fred's right. We didn't ascend this peak, but instead walked around its left side.
Mt. Belknap, the second-highest Tushar peak (left), and Gold Mountain in center.
Added to our peak-bagging list!
Past the highest point on the hike, you walk toward the old (probably mining) road to the right of Fred. Copper Belt Peak is just on Fred's left with small dark dome on top.
Seeing mountain goats lying down on rock outcrop in the distance (lower center).
Looking back at old road along ridge, Mount Belknap on the right.
Copper Belt Peak ahead. Planning our ascent: we left road near saddle of ridge to the peak' right.
Heading toward saddle on ridge just under Copper Belt (left).
It's an easy scramble to the top of Copper Belt Peak.
Looking west at the volcanic Mount Baldy and Mount Belknap from near Copper Belt's summit.
From Copper Peak's summit: Looking east at Mt. Baldy (left) and Mt. Belknap (right).
Another Tushar peak conquered!
Copper Belt Peak register.
Post-hike celebration with fresh cantaloupe at the trailhead. We use the foam pads in the truck cab to sleep on.
Caltopo map of our GPS tracks from Bullion Pasture trailhead (lower left) heading northeast to Copper Belt Peak.
Elevation profile shows the one-way approach to the peak. ​North points up.
Walk on one of Earth's largest laccoliths in a quiet part of the Pine Valley Mountains near St. George, Utah.
Distance/elevation gain: 11.5 miles out and back. Trailhead = 5,324'. Summit = 8,890'. Cumulative gain = 3,700'.
Difficulty: moderate - hard Class 1 effort up moderately steep switchbacks; steep bushwhacking/scrambling off-trail the last mile to the summit. Considerations: there is no trail, no cairns to mark the final ascent (~ 1 mile), once you get off Anderson Valley Trail: navigation experience is necessary. Summit not visible from approach trail. Maps/Apps: AllTrails (see notes below), Topo Maps US., St. George/Pine Valley Mountains (National Geographic #715). Date hiked: Sept. 2, 2024. Geology: Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith - perhaps the largest on Earth - granite monzonite porphyry intrusion 20.5 million years ago. History: "New Harmony" comes from Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Joseph Smith translated the Book of Mormon. The local Mormon settlers thought the name represented the united action they had during periods of trial and hardship. Quote: "You talk the talk. Do you walk the walk?" - Animal Mother in the film Full Metal Jacket.
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Map of our tracks from New Harmony Trailhead (see link above).
More topo maps at end of this post.
Solitude, cool views of Zion National Park, nice pines and aspens, and unique geology are the rewards you get with this hike to Mount Baldy if you don't mind hiking through a large burn area and can handle some frustrating bushwhacking and deadfall maneuvering.
With this ascent, we conquered one of our "grudge peaks," as we gave this a try in April but faced a thick blanket of snow covering the steep mountainside that the trail traversed. We should have known when we had to ford a cold, overflowing creek with waterfalls from snow melt at the beginning of the hike. However, a few days ago, we added another peak - Mount Moriah - to our grudge peak list, so the net number remains the same! The New Harmony trailhead for Anderson Valley Trail is at a large gravel parking lot with signboards and pit toilet. ​ This is a less-traveled trail - maybe because most Pine Valley Mountain hikers are on trails leading to Burger and Signal Peaks, 10,000-footers to the southwest looking over Mount Baldy's summit. The approach to the saddle/ridge is bare of trees and faces east, so there's minimal shade in the morning. The human-caused 2018 West Valley fire left a lot of charred tree skeletons. The last mile of bushwhacking/navigating is crawling over/hiking around lots of large pine deadfall.
Hike Summary
0 - 3.2 miles (5,324' - 7,000'): Anderson Valley Trailhead to saddle on Baldy's north ridge. 3.2 - 4.7 miles (7,000' - 8,175'): Saddle to turn-off from Anderson Valley Trail. 4.7 - 5.8 miles (8,175' - 8,890'): Cross-country to summit.
The first mile is flat, crosses over a few streams via wooden bridges, goes through private land with two gates. At the wilderness boundary, the trail begins to climb up shrubby switchbacks with loose rocks.
Reach the saddle on ridge heading due south to Mount Baldy. The trail is overgrown in a lot of places, but still discernible. Great views of Zion to the east. Anderson Valley Trail then traverses the west side of this ridge with great views of Main Canyon draining from the heights of Pine Valley Mountains. This creek was roaring with waterfalls in April. Aspens appear at 7,500 feet as the trail climbs past two water troughs and then up to the turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail. Next time we hike this we would turn left to leave the trail right after what I call "the obelisk," a solitary rock pinnacle (see photo below) next to the trail to begin the cross-country navigation southeast toward Mount Baldy. The AllTrails track for this hike goes further on Anderson Valley Trail and ends up unnecessarily mounting a steep and rocky ridge which you have to climb down anyway, so it's wasted effort. This turn-off is ~ 4.7 miles in from the trailhead. As with many other times climbing an off-trail peak, you find a more efficient track to and from the summit on the descent. Now it's a steep climb (700 feet in one mile) through brush and over deadfall to the summit. We made our way over a ridge just to the north of Baldy, then back down and up again to a saddle just north of Baldy. From there, climb south to Baldy's summit. I couldn't find a register or survey marker on the summit, but the views of the sheer orange cliffs of Zion's Kolob Canyons to the east was a contrast to this green and gray mountain. Signal Peak, the highest in the Pine Valley Mountains loomed over us to the southwest. There's a lot of Mount Baldys in the U.S. and now we can say we've climbed our local one! This northern end of the Pine Valley Mountains with its trails and peaks deserves more exploring.
Trailhead to saddle/ridge (0 - 3.2 miles)
Saddle to turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail (3.2 - ~4.7 miles)
Cross-Country to Summit (~4.7 - 5.8 miles)
Looking at the west rim of Zion National Park. The last peak on the right with the small "bump" is Mount Kinesava.
For the Geocurious: Geology of the Pine Valley Laccolith
​Geology:
The Land of the Laccolith
The "unique geology" appears once you've completed the first set of switchbacks to arrive at a saddle on Mount Baldy's northern ridge. The rest of the hike to the summit is on perhaps the largest laccolith in the world. The rock is a common igneous intrusive; it's the geomorphology (geo = earth, morphology = form/structure) and the size of this laccolith that make it unique. Twenty million years ago, magma from a heat source deep within Earth's crust rose up through cracks in the rock until it found a layer with less resistance, causing it to spread horizontally and create a "lake" of molten magma (lakkos = pond or lake, lith = stone). The molten rock formed a dome underneath the more resistant rock layer above it which prevented the magma from escaping. The magma cools and forms a laccolith. Over the millions of years afterward, the overlying rock eroded, exposing the Pine Valley Laccolith. The heat sources still underlie this area as evidenced by the basaltic lava flows and cones in the area that are less than two million years old.
Cross-section of the rock units underlying the Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith.
Bottom orange unit = Cambrian (500 Ma). Blue units = Permian (280 Ma). Jn unit = Navajo Sandstone - famous cliffs found throughout southern Utah - the main rock of Zion NP (190 Ma.) Geologic Map of the St. George area
References
Biek, R.F., et al. 2010. Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' Quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Map 242DM, Utah Geological Survey. Miller, R. 2/25/2018. Our Geological Wonderland: The Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith. The Independent. Utah State University Fire History Tracker. ​https://fht.wildfirerisk.utah.gov/ Washington County Historical Society. New Harmony, Utah. This breathtaking hike lived up to the fanfare and legend. It's now one of our favorites. High over Utah: Mount Timpanogos summit with trail below and Timpanogos Saddle entry onto the ridge, North Timpanogos at end of ridge to the left. Trip Stats
Location: Central Utah - Uinta National Forest - Wasatch Range - Timpanogos Wilderness - Timpooneke Trail #053 Distance: 14.3 miles roundtrip. Elevation gain: 4,400'. Trailhead = 7,360'. Summit = 11,749'. Prominence: 5,270 feet - 47th most prominent mountain in the contiguous U.S. Date Hiked: July 22, 2024. Maps and Apps: National Geographic Trails Illustrated Wasatch Front North #709, AllTrails. See our GPS tracks/topo map at end of post. Considerations: The last 2 miles to the summit is exposed; check weather forecast and start early to get off of summit in case of thunderstorms. Mountain Weather Forecast. Forest Service Timpooneke Trail website. Parking permits are required on Fridays, Saturdays and Holidays between July 8 - October 15. Reservations: Recreation.gov. Geology: Mt. Timpanogos resides in Pennsylvanian (300 Ma) Oquirrh Formation - sandstone interbedded with cherty limestone. Chert is a fine-grained silica made of very small mineral particles. It forms as darker layers or nodules in usually lighter-colored limestone. This rock originated in tropical swamp-forests. Indigenous peoples: named after the hunter-gatherer Timpanogos Utes. tumpi = "rocks" and panogos = "water mouth." Quote: "The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir More Peaks over 11,000 feet in Nevada and Utah
Timpanogos Hike Summary - Timpooneke Trail
This awesome hike up the much-loved and revered rock tower known as Mount Timpanogos lived up to the lore and legend. Its final summit approach perches on its steep, rocky sides where you can gaze upon the cities like Provo that sprawl along Utah Lake's eastern shore on one side, and Robert Redford's posh Sundance Resort on the other. I love these small, ultra-high summits where, when I look down thousands of feet below to glaciers and meadows, I get a funny feeling in my stomach. Mountain goats are often seen: a fellow hiker pointed one out on the west side of the mountain below Timpanogos Saddle. Even before we finished this hike, I wanted to go back again. Lush blankets of wildflowers surrounded the trail, especially in Timpanogos Basin on the way up to the saddle between Mt. Timpanogos and Bomber Peak. I was blown away by the sheer numbers of lupine, bistort, columbine and paintbrush. So many bluebells! "Timp," as this mountain is affectionately called by Utahns, is the second-highest mountain in the Wasatch range. Mt. Nebo, 11,933 feet elevation, which we hiked two years ago, is the highest. Both peaks have a huge prominence, a measure of the vertical distance from summit to lowest contour line encircling that mountain with Nebo at 5,489' and Timpanogos at 5,269'. Mount Timpanogos summit with Timpanogos Basin, Timpanogos glacier and Emerald Lake below. Our GPS tracks from Timpooneke Trailhead (lower right), ascending up valley under the Giant Staircase (long ridge to the trail's left), climbing ledges up to the first view of Timpanogos summit and Timpanogos Basin, then up to Timpanogos Saddle, then along ridge to summit. Hike in a southward direction to the summit. Utah Lake and Utah Valley at top of image. Woolly Hole is the cirque directly below North Timpanogos and the upper, smaller cirque to the right of Forgotten Peak is Pika cirque. (Caltopo map of our tracks and elevation profile below) When we got to the trailhead parking lot in the dark, at 5 a.m., we saw a lot of vehicles parked and wondered if people were backpacking. It turned out that many students started the hike at 1:00 a.m. to witness the sunrise from the summit. We passed a lot of groups of them descending. Since this was a Monday, we didn't need a parking pass (see link above for recreation.gov permitting). Seems this is a perfect training mountain for the serious trail runner and cross-country athlete. We met a family at the top who run and hike this mountain every year. The fastest known time is 2 hours and 18 minutes round-trip for 14.3 miles and 5,000 cumulative feet of elevation gain! We were passed by a few runners. On the trail at 5 a.m. with headlamps, we hiked the 7 miles to the summit by 9:30, taking our time and having a "second" breakfast break. It was refreshing to be on an actual and well-traveled trail for a change, since we have been doing more scrambling and navigating to peaks. Aspen Grove Trail, another way up to the summit, intersects with Timpooneke Trail as you enter the basin. A metal building topped with a pyramid-shaped roof with hundreds of signatures scrawled on its walls crowns the summit. This summit hut has overlooked the spectacular scenery of snow, glaciers and lakes and mountain goats for almost 100 years. The Timpooneke Trail was completed in 1921. The pointed roof acts as a survey marker that can be seen with a telescope from the valley below. Next time I would drive a little further on Utah State Hwy. 92 to the Aspen Grove Trailhead and hike Timp from the east. There's a snowfield to hike through in Timpanogos Basin that looks really fun. There's more elevation gain with this approach. I have passed by and eyed this imposing peak many times on Interstate 15. Finally I can say we were on the top! I think we'll join the many hikers and runners to make this an annual pilgrimage.
Waterfall video! Three miles into the hike up the Giant Staircase: the trail continues over these ledges toward left and into above valley. View of Timpanogos after climbing the Giant Staircase and entering Timpanogos Basin. Rock "hills" in foreground possibly glacial moraines. Looking across Timpanogos Basin to the Aspen Grove Trail which treks through the snowfield at the base of Timpanogos. So many wildflowers! The trail from Aspen Grove trailhead approaches through the snow at the base of Timpanogos, left. Timpanogos Saddle is up ahead - the trail climbing it is visible from here. Nearing the saddle where hikers are standing: trail runner descending. You can see the summit hut, a small point, on Timp's summit. Once at the saddle, see a breathtaking view of Utah Valley and Utah Lake, continue on the west side of Mount Timpanogos. The top of Timp, up ahead, left. Summit hut (point on right side) visible. A little bit of fun scrambling.... Last set of switchbacks with the summit hut visible on the right. Looking to the north at Timpanogos Basin and Saddle. From the summit - we were just way down there! Good view of Emerald Lake. At the summit! Almost there! American Bistort A little fun with Oil Paint Filter in Photoshop! Caltopo Map of our tracks and Elevation Profile. Sources
Baker, A.A. and Crittendon, M.D. GEOLOGY OF THE TIMPANOGOS CAVE QUADRANGLE, Utah. Wright, R. 'Glass House' on Timpanogos. The Daily Herald, July 20, 2003. Remote route-finding on Earth's largest landslide to a huge panorama of southern Utah.
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Imagining a Natural Catastrophe Still feeling energized after our Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, we decided to maintain our hiking fitness and get out of St. George's heat to hike a remote peak. I often go to Stavislost website to get ideas. Sandy Peak looked like a great opportunity for us to explore more of the forested Markagunt plateau near Cedar City, Utah. The rocks on Sandy's summit are just a microcosm of Earth's largest landslide - covering at least 1,600 square miles of southwestern Utah's high plateaus. It's called the Markagunt gravity slide, a catastrophic event that happened 20 million years ago when the surface of a huge volcanic field collapsed and slid southward for many miles, placing older rock on top of younger rock. "Markagunt Megabreccia" is the name of this rock unit. Breccia refers to jumbled angular rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix, with "mega' referring to fragments that are larger than one meter length. Catastrophic events like volcanic explosions create breccias. "Markagunt" is the Paiute word for "Highland of Trees". It resides in the Colorado plateau province. Cedar Breaks National Park rises from one of its highest points. Our Route: Avoiding the Steep Climb until it got Really Steep We parked just off the Old Spanish National Historic Trail in Upper Bear Valley. Locally, it is a nice graded road out of Paragonah that is also named Forest Road #077, Markagunt Plateau Trail and Bear Valley Road. 0 - 1.3 miles - walk southeast over Bear Creek right after parking, then walk up road (not numbered) that leads around the knoll to the east and drop into Ashton Creek at when it turns to the right (south). 1.3 miles - 2.9 miles - walk up Ashton Creek. 2.9 miles to summit - steep walk up Sandy's west slope, avoiding the top of the long ridge just to the north of the summit. We couldn't see Sandy Peak from the road approach. If I were to do this hike again, I would get out of Ashton Creek sooner and climb the first ridge on the left (east) I could see, which leads easterly to intersect with Sandy's north ridge. In the creek, we saw what looked to be a hunter's path (found a camera on a tree and a salt lick nearby) that led through a nice forest of pines, aspen and meadows, although we had a bit too many mosquitos. Getting on the ridge sooner out of Ashton Creek would have probably meant less bushwhacking. The steep walk to the top on Sandy's western flank was riddled with deadfall, rocks, and vegetation, adding to precarious footing at times. Maneuvering around rough volcanic blocks at the summit was fun. The view was huge. To the north, we saw smoke from a fire just south of the incredible Tushar Mountain range, and to the southeast the orange rocks near Bryce Canyon. This area of the Markagunt Plateau, squeezed up between Parowan Valley to the west, and the Panguitch Valley to the east has lots of trails, mountains, and mountain-bike friendly roads to explore. Gotta get back there! Visions of a Centro Woodfired Pizza got me through the last bit of route finding out of the creek. Per tradition, after hikes in this area, we went to this restaurant in Cedar City. Route-finding, wilderness, amazing view, pretty tough hike (at least for us), great pizza and great beer makes for the perfect day. Life is good! Caltopo Map and profile of our GPX tracks. North at top of map. Google Earth image of our tracks. Figuring out our route from Ashton Draw southeastward to Sandy Peak. Road leading southeastward from Old Spanish Trail (FR 077) toward Ashton Creek. This could be driven by a 4 x 4. Point where road turns right and we dropped down into Ashton Creek, 1.3 miles from where we parked. Sandy Peak not visible, but the long, lighter-colored rise just north of Sandy is poking out between two cone-shaped rises to the right of Fred. White columbine in Ashton Creek. Following cow paths in Ashton Creek until we found a wider trail (hunters' ?) that began on the right side of the creek to cross over to the left. Really nice hike up Ashton Creek, as long as you stay on the trail! Sandy Peak finally comes into view, but we were on the wrong side of the creek, so we went down and crossed, then went up the steep slope to the saddle just to the left of the peak. Looked like buck rub on these new aspens to us. Monument plant growing on slope with Sandy Peak at the top. The last time I saw Monument plant was on Mackay Peak in Idaho. Yep, it's a steep and rock-filled slope! Looks like layers of this volcanic mudflow breccia have separated or spalled from larger rock. Sandy Peak summit looking northward toward the Tushar Mountain range and a fire south of it. Descending into Ashton Creek, with lots of aspens. We are parked in Upper Bear Valley, at top of photo. Above this valley is Cottonwood Mountain to the west, where there are more trails. The East Bear Valley Fault runs the length of Upper Bear Valley. References
Biek, R.F., et al. Geologic Map of the Panguitch 30' x 60' Quadrangle, Garfield, Iron and Kane Counties, Utah. 2015. Map 270DM - The Utah Geological Society. Hacker, D.B., et.al. Catastrophic emplacement of the gigantic Markagunt gravity slide, southwest Utah (USA): Implications for hazards associated with sector collapse of volcanic fields. 2014. Geology vol. 42 #11. Standard route for Grand Canyon North Rim to South Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail) Distances/Elevation gain/loss: North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.4 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. All Fired up! As Pat Benatar's song goes, we're "All Fired Up" for next week's Grand Canyon rim to rim hike! Her song is a fitting accompaniment to the goblet squat video below. Fred and I needed elevation training, so we went to Palm Springs, my old stomping grounds, and hiked the Skyline Trail for a gain of 4,700 feet, the same Bright Angel Trail gain on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We encountered too much snow at 8,000 feet in the Pine Valley Mountains just to the north of St. George, preventing a good elevation gain. My last post, Grand Canyon Rim to Rim In One Day: Training in St. George, Utah, explains how we got creative with emulating distance and elevation. We did great on the Skyline; we're now ready for the big hike!
New goal: hike to the tram this October with some of our hiking buddies. Oh, the nostalgia and the beauty of this mountain! I'm grateful that I can still be hiking it 31 years later - let's say that the Advil this time was very helpful! La Verkin Creek Trail to Kolob Arch - Zion NP This long hike features attributes found in Zion National Park's main canyon, including an arch, sandstone cliffs and a river but without the throngs of people. It's in the northern Kolob Canyons section, has a spur trail to impressive Kolob Arch, and also meets up with the Hop Valley Trail, a route to the main Zion Canyon. We hiked 7 miles in to Kolob Arch and back for a total of 14 miles, the same distance as Grand Canyon's North Kaibab Trail. It drops down from the parking lot at Lee Pass Trailhead into the La Verkin Creek drainage. The same mileage as our Skyline Trail hike, but not nearly the same elevation gain. We've got one more training hike on Zion's West Rim Trail this week with Lindy and Jeff, and then we should be good to go for the Grand Canyon. We are lucky to have such inspirational places, some of the most beautiful on Earth, in which to train! Strengthening exercise for powerful hill climbing: Goblet Squats I have found that since I started doing CrossFit and working on strengthening my legs, I have more stability and power for steeper hiking. Goblet squats can be done with a kettlebell as well as two dumbbells, each resting on your shoulders. Strengthens your core (trunk) muscles, glutes and hips. Points to remember:
Forsyth Creek - Pine Valley Mountains in mid-May. It's a late spring here; ran into packed snow on the trail at 8,000 feet. Trees are just starting to bud. photos captured with my new Sony mirrorless camera. La Verkin Creek in Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park. At the beginning of La Verkin Creek Trail - Kolob Canyons of Zion National Park. Jeff and Fred on La Verkin Creek Trail - Zion National Park. This morning was cold starting out - 31 degrees! Kolob Arch, 7 miles from Lee Pass on the La Verkin Creek Trail. La Verkin is the name of a nearby city between both entrances to Zion National Park. Origins for its name may have come from an alteration of the Spanish word for the nearby Virgin River -- la virgen. Mile #14 - on the way back to the Lee Pass trailhead! Beautiful Zion hike. Scott and Fred on the Skyline Trail overlooking Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley, California. Near the beginning of the Skyline Trail. Prepare before you go far on the Skyline! The steepest part is the "traverse" at the end of the hike. I have seen a person in serious trouble on one of our Cactus to Clouds hikes. Getting higher - overlooking Palm Springs. Oh beautiful yucca! At ~ 4,000-foot elevation on the Skyline looking at the final climb to the Palm Springs Aerial Tram on far ridge. One of the first views of the San Jacinto Wilderness, where the Skyline Trail that leads to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station terminates on the ridge way up there! We are heading to the ridge on the right. Chaparral Yucca on the Skyline Trail with the Little San Bernardino Mountain Range across the Coachella Valley in the background. A good look at what is to come on the Skyline Trail. The tram station is just to the right of the arrow. Coffmans Crag, the white granite just below and to the right of the arrow, is a good landmark to see the final "traverse", a green and steep spot of trees to the left of it in this photo. The Skyline Trail is not one to be taken lightly. People have died on this trail. On one of our Cactus to Clouds hikes, a man caught up to us who had lost his hiking party. He was severely dehydrated - required a helicopter rescue. Left, right from top to bottom: Ribbon Wood tree (Adenostoma sparsifolium), Chaparral yucca, North Lykken trailhead sign, metal sign commemorating Jane Lykken Hoff, "trail boss" of the Desert Riders, contents of Rescue Box 1, Skyline warning sign, Rescue box 1, and boulder sign at the intersection of North Lykken Trail and Skyline Trail. Yucca and Ribbonwood trees. Celebrating long friendships with our hiking buddies in Palm Springs. I have known these friends for over 30 years! We have shared many miles on desert trails and many memories. Love you guys! from left to right: Scott, Vickie, Maria, Sue and Fred. Vickie, Maria and I are in the photo below - 31 years ago! The First Cactus to Clouds Challenge - October 1993
Summit of Mt. San Jacinto, 10,804'. From left to right: Sue Birnbaum, (don't remember his name), Roger Keezer, Maria Keezer, Ray Wilson, and Vickie Kearney seated in the middle. A New Year's Day 2024 journey through pinyon-juniper woodland on top of Red Mountain near St. George, Utah to a spectacular Snow Canyon overlook. Looking north over Snow Canyon State Park from "On Top of the World" on Red Mountain. Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon. View of Red Sands Trail (right) in Snow Canyon SP from a previous hike - Red Mountain Primitive Trail. Trip Stats - Ivins Trailhead
Overview/Location: This quiet, cross-country excursion through the gorgeous Red Mountain juniper woodland biome brings you to an expansive view of southern Utah's Snow Canyon State Park. A remote island of solitude in the Red Mountain Wilderness elevated above the cities of Ivins and St. George. Distance/Elevation gain: 5 miles out and back/1,575'. Coordinates/Elevation: Red Mountain Trailhead = 37.17519, -113.67755 (3,190'). Southern Red Mountain Primitive Trail out of Ivins. Top-off at 0.8 miles = 37.18375, -113.67849 (4,556'). Snow Canyon Overlook (On Top of the World) = 37.20116, -113.66671 (4,765'). Maps/Apps: Topo Maps U.S. app, Garmin GPS, BLM Utah Red Mountain Wilderness (Avenza app). Maps at end of this post. Difficulty/Trail: strenuous Class 1-3 climb up Red Mountain (mild exposure) for the first 0.8 mile, moderate cross-country Class 2 over slick rock and deep sand. Date Hiked: 1/1/2024. Geology: Red Mountain's lower slopes are the Kayenta Formation, the oldest rock in Snow Canyon State Park (190 million years). The horizontal sediment layers are made from rivers depositing mudstone, siltstone and sandstone. The upper slopes, cliffs and top of Red Mountain are a great block of Navajo Sandstone that is younger (180 million years), also seen as a major rock unit of Zion National Park. This Navajo Sandstone exhibits large, sweeping cross-bed features - horizontal and dipping layers of ancient sand dunes deposited in a vast eolian (wind carried) dune field. Red Mountain is bounded by the Gunlock Fault on its west side. It merges with an extensive field of 2.4 million - 2,000 year old basalt flows to the northeast. The Gunlock Fault is a normal fault with the down-drop on its west side (See references below). Considerations: The first mile from the Ivins trailhead is Class 1-2 with two short Class 3 maneuvers. Once the trail tops out, there is no marked trail. Experience with navigation and route-finding using a compass/GPS and topo maps is advised after top of Red Mountain is reached to avoid getting lost. A sign at this trailhead reads, "Hazardous, unmaintained route with steep exposed slopes: your safety is your responsibility." Recommend taking a GPS waypoint at critical points on the trail such as point where you enter the plateau from the cliffs. Search and rescue operations for lost hikers have occurred. Be prepared if you have to spend the night! Research this route thoroughly! 2/5/23: Three rescues in Washington County on the same Day (St. George News). Related Posts Our New Year's Day Hike Fred and I have a tradition of hiking on New Years Day. For 2024, we took friends to the top of Red Mountain and across its beautiful plateau to a high point dubbed "On Top of the World" by our friend Dan. From here, you stand 1,400 feet over an outstanding view of Snow Canyon's petrified yellow sand dunes and orange ridges, black basalt flows from northern volcanoes near Veyo. It's worth the orange sand trudge on the top to get there. This short, five-mile hike packs in a good variety of terrain. The first mile climbs steeply through a cliff band requiring some fun Class 3 (un-roped using hands to climb) maneuvers, gaining 1,300 feet. The next 1.5 miles initially descends through a beautiful juniper woodland bowl where Gunsight Pass can be reached to the southeast. You will trek through sand, washes, over slick rock then climb to a sandy saddle where our "On Top of the World" high point can finally be seen. Then it's a matter of making a ~0.5-mile beeline to it across relatively level terrain, traversing minor washes, dodging cacti and prickly shrubs. When you top-off onto Red Mountain's plateau, you initially follow the north/south Red Mountain Primitive Trail for ~1.2 miles, then a short jaunt off of it to the northeast to reach On Top of the World, elevation 4,765'. Red Mountain Primitive Trail's northern trailhead is located just north of Diamond Cinder Cone on Utah Highway 18. It's a fun little scramble to the cairned top, using your hands a few times to climb easy rocks, overlooking Padre Canyon and Tuacahn Center for the Arts to the southeast. Once you summit, the rugged terrain drops steeply below with a breathtaking view of Snow Canyon, with a few smooth slick rock benches above it that look interesting to explore or camp in. Can't think of a better way to celebrate the New Year: friends and the reward of finding our own way to a seldom-visited summit in one of the most beautiful places in the southwest. Great "medicine" for the soul, body and mind. Explore More in 2024!! Southern Red Mountain trailhead in Ivins. The trail starts out steep! Google Earth view of our GPS tracks beginning at the Red Mountain Primitive Trail's southern trailhead in Ivins (lower left), going through the cliff-band about halfway up, getting onto Red Mountain, and traversing across plateau to "On Top of the World" overlooking Snow Canyon, Padre Canyon, and Tuacahn Center for the Arts. See more maps at the end of this post. Utah yucca and pinyon pines, shrub live oak (Quercus turbinella) on Red Mountain's plateau. The name turbinella, meaning "like a little top", refers to the acorn, this plant's fruit which appears in summer. The reference to "turbinella" in the photo above prompted me to add these photos of the shrub live oak acorns. They're so cute! Life and death on the Colorado Plateau: beauty and grace in a dead juniper. On top of Red Mountain: lots of sand and shrubs to negotiate. The first view of "On Top of the World" highpoint (red cone to the right). Snow-covered Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon. This photo was taken last winter when we had record snowfalls in southwestern Utah. We have just walked across the pinyon/juniper scrub land behind Fred and Jeff and are starting up the ridge to our summit. Beaver Dam Mountains on the horizon to the west. "On Top of the World!" A cairn marking our summit and a view of Tuacahn Center for the Arts lower left. View is looking south at Ivins and St. George, Utah and toward Arizona on the horizon. Jeff and Lindy - Happy New Years! Dan (who named this summit "On Top of the World") in a photo from last winter. The road in the valley is the drive through Snow Canyon State Park. Note the black shrub-covered basalt flows mid/upper in photo, covering the Navajo Sandstone. Heading back. As soon as you get over the saddle in the foreground, you drop into sand dunes and washes, then a brief climb up a sandstone ridge to find your entry point onto the plateau. Navigation experience on unmarked terrain is essential so you don't get lost. I recommend taking a GPS point when you finish the 0.8 mile climb from the trailhead to the plateau entry. Heading down off the plateau of Red Mountain on Red Mountain Trail. Overlooking the city of Ivins. City of Ivins below. Descending through Class 2+/3 cliff band. Below us is the trail on top of the ridge. Caltopo Map of our GPS tracks. Caltopo map illustrating our hikes on the Red Mountain Primitive Trail. Red tracks = "On Top of the World" hike. Blue tracks = our hike on 2/4/23. Dashed line = continuation of Red Mountain Primitive Trail past Snow Benchmark, to intersection with Snow Canyon Overlook, then ending at its upper trailhead. References
Bugden, M. Geology of Snow Canyon State Park Cryptobiotic Soils: Jayne Belnap. Holding the Place in Place - USGS: Impacts of Climate Change on Life and Ecosystems. Red Mountain Wilderness Maps - Wilderness Connect Ecoregions of Utah - usgs.gov Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Biek, R.F., and others. USGS publications. Miller, R. Our Geological Wonderland: Snow Canyon State Park A stunning sight on Veteran's Day: the largest American flag juxtaposed with the soaring cliffs of Snow Canyon State Park. Lady Liberty, displayed by Follow the Flag organization, at night in Snow Canyon State Park, Utah. Photo by Ann Little Related pages in Explorumentary: Follow the Flag Organization Facts
Check out awesome drone footage in these great videos! Saville Creations: America's Largest American Flag in Snow Canyon St George News Founders: Kyle and Carrie Fox
Motivation: To strengthen Americans' patriotism, a simple idea of inspiring, strengthening and healing people by hanging one of their huge flags in a canyon produced "far more impact than ever anticipated." Other events:
Mission Statement
American Flag Etiquette
Click on video below for awe-inspiring drone video
An unexpected sight greeted Fred and I on our favorite local loop-hike last month in Snow Canyon State Park. Just off Whiptail trail, suspended high in a gap between orange cliffs, an enormous American flag floated, seemingly out of place in in these walls of Navajo Sandstone. People were lined up, taking pictures of this spectacular sight. The flag, in the still air hung vertically, but billowed and rolled with occasional breezes, the bottom edge of it flying gracefully towards the sky. I suppose you could ask what visitors were thinking about this huge flag in this gorgeous natural setting and you would probably get different answers, ranging from the emotion of national pride and patriotism to "Wow! That's pretty cool!" to "Why is it hanging here?" For me, my heart swelled because two things that I love were juxtaposed: a symbol of my country and the land of the American West.
Strength, unity, connection, freedom - these are what the American flag is intended to signify. The stripes represent the original 13 colonies that were seceding from the British. The blue canton contains the stars of our 50 states. Blue represents vigilance, perseverance, and justice. White signifies purity and innocence, and red signifies hardiness and valor. This proved to be a good exercise in brushing up on my flag facts, reading America's unique Declaration of Independence, and learning of the efforts going on to unify our country. Pew and Gallup polls show that a record high number of Americans perceive the nation as divided on the most important issues. Maybe Follow the Flag and other organizations can help us see the positive and help us remember the ideals of our country's origin. "...if there’s one impression I carry with me after the privilege of holding for five and a half years the office held by Adams and Jefferson and Lincoln, it is this: that the things that unite us — America’s past of which we’re so proud, our hopes and aspirations for the future of the world and this much-loved country — these things far outweigh what little divides us. And so tonight we reaffirm that Jew and gentile, we are one nation under God; that black and white, we are one nation indivisible; that Republican and Democrat, we are all Americans. Tonight, with heart and hand, through whatever trial and travail, we pledge ourselves to each other and to the cause of human freedom, the cause that has given light to this land and hope to the world." - President Ronald Reagan's Independence Day Speech aboard the USS John F. Kennedy, July 4, 1986. A drop into the stained and polished Navajo Sandstone slot in this picturesque "beginner" canyon. Sue entering Yankee Doodle on first and longest rappel, ~ 75 feet. photo by Fred Birnbaum Trip Stats Location: Dixie National Forest - Pine Valley Ranger District - ~ 1 hour drive northeast of St. George, Utah, near Leeds. Date: October 15, 2023 Canyon Rating: 3A/B1 (Technical, Dry and Pools, short time). Distance: ~ 2 miles roundtrip (~ 0.8 miles in canyon). Access: from FR031, a 25-mile dirt road connecting St. George and Leeds: best traveled with a 4 WD with moderate clearance vehicle, as this road can get rutted and rough after a rain. The canyoneering portion is just south of this forest road. Start: 37.2361, -113.4528 Links: Paragon Adventure/Canyoneering/Yankee Doodle Hollow Rope Wiki Geology:
Related Posts Brian gets the ropes ready on the next rappel anchor. Our Trip This time Fred and I decided to "leap" out of our comfort hiking zone and try something more challenging: canyoneering! Although Yankee Doodle Hollow is rated as a "beginner" canyoneering hike, rappelling - especially the first drop into the canyon - was a challenge for us. This brief foray into these beautifully-polished and sinuous narrows rated as one of our favorites for 2023. Also on my list of favorites is the "Subway" - Left Fork of North Creek in spectacular Zion National Park, another journey into rock carved by water. My friend Brian from CrossFit Dixie has been canyoneering in this area of southern Utah, including Zion. He invited me on previous canyoneering trips but I was always too intimidated to go. He guided us on this short foray, setting up the ropes on the rappel anchors and instructing us on how to control the rope in our rappel device. He got us all set up with our harnesses and locking carabiners. Brian's friend Jorey, who had never rappelled before, joined us. The joy on his face when he completed the first long rappel into the canyon and overcame his fear of heights was priceless. He was so afraid to take the initial "leap" into the void. Fred and I had learned climbing techniques on a guided Grand Teton hike, but I was still pretty nervous. Canyon Origins Not sure how this canyon got its name. Was it named by miners in the area, or Mormon Leeds settlers? Yankee Doodle Hollow Creek originates from the highlands under the cliffs of the Pine Valley Mountains. This area of southwestern Utah is complicated geologically-speaking, with uplifts, gravity slides, compressional structures (uplift), extensional structures (faults), and more. One look at the Geologic Map of St. George area and you might agree. So many rock units from Permian time (300 million years ago) until present. Although a shorter and shallower canyon compared to legendary Zion canyons, Yankee Doodle Hollow still has the pretty curved and smooth cross-bedded walls of spectacular Navajo Sandstone - one of nature's works of art. You don't have to get a permit or arrange for shuttles between canyon entry and exit points, like you have to do in Zion. After we had completed all of the down-climbs we did a Class 3 steep slick rock scramble out of the canyon, slightly rubber-stained from many climbing shoes, as it opened up to the left. The Class 2 path up to the rim was discernible. If you keep going past this exit point, you continue walking down Yankee Doodle Hollow, you intersect with Heath Wash, where you would take a left (north) onto Heath Trail, which takes you back to FR031. Fun stuff! Glad Brian finally got me out there. Hopefully we can do more canyoneering....but Fred and I always default to the above-ground adventures! Thank-you Brian for getting us out of our Comfort Zone! Push the envelope - Keep on Exploring! A portion of the GEOLOGIC MAP OF THE ST. GEORGE AND EAST PART OF THE CLOVER MOUNTAINS 30' X 60' QUADRANGLES, WASHINGTON AND IRON COUNTIES, UTAH by Biek, R.F., et al. The pink rock unit at top-center of photo is Pine Valley Mountains (quartz monzonite laccolith). The Jurassic Navajo Sandstone is the light-green unit that presents as a kind of semi-circle around the base of Pine Valley Mountains, a much older unit, that is the main rock seen in Zion National Park. The City of St. George is located at the bottom of the map. We are going to be down there soon - WOW! Jorey (canyoneering newbie) left, and Brian on the right, getting us all set up. The first (and only) long rappel into the canyon, ~ 75', with two anchors. Photo by Fred Birnbaum Brian getting next down climb ready. Fred on a short rappel. Canyon exit: steep smooth sand stone on the left, fractured rock falls on the right. Pretty steep slick rock on the exit. Wandering around afterwards in Brian's RZR side-by side ATV. Pine Valley Mountains (monzonite porphyry laccolith) to the north. It's highest point is Signal Peak at 10,369'. Reference
Biek, R.F. 2010. Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Utah Geological Survey. |
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About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.
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