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Cassidy Arch is only one feature of many on this spectacular hike on the Waterpocket Fold that will capture your imagination and make you feel minuscule as you hike over open slickrock and between towering walls.
Related:
Utah's Red Rock Country Hiking Mt. Kinesava, Zion NP Southern Utah Hiking/Biking in a Pandemic: Snow Canyon State Park, Wire Mesa, and Zion NP Red Mountain Primitive Trail, St. George, Utah In Search of the Rattlesnake Petroglyph Desert Plant Photos 
Fred (upper left) standing on top of Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef NP.
Trip Stats
Overview: Maximize your already overloaded visual experience in Capitol Reef by hiking a trail less-traveled to Cassidy Arch, then descending through the soaring heights of Grand Wash. The only drawback on this spectacular loop is the 2.6-mile walk on the park's road (Hwy 24) back to the trailhead. Location: Hickman Bridge Trailhead, 2 miles from Capitol Reef NP visitor center on main park road. Coordinates: Trailhead: 38.287936, -111.226906.
Difficulty: Moderate Class 1 with signs and rock cairn markers.
Permit/Fee: $20 for private vehicle pass good for 7 days. Navigational aids: Hiking Map and Guide - Capitol Reef National Park (topo map), Stav Is Lost's route description. Date Hiked: April 28, 2022. Geology: Capitol Reef NP encompasses its main geologic feature - the Waterpocket Fold, a nearly 100-mile crimp in the Earth (see "For the Geocurious" below.)
Our Hike
Seems like the last few hikes we've done have histories of late 1880's wild west rustlers and outlaws. Two of them - Mount Minerva Hoyt and Lost Horse Mountain in Joshua Tree NP look over valleys where cattle rustlers hid their "stock". Cassidy Arch, the premier feature of this hike is named after Butch Cassidy, leader of the "Wild Bunch" - bank robbers who hid in the remote canyons of Capitol Reef. Wild west characters - one of the many things I like about living in America's magnificent west. One of the best attributes of this hike is variety; Frying Pan Trail elevates you to a spectacular high point and a rock wonderland with eroding sandstone towers scattered about, then drops you down to the intersecting trail that leads you to Cassidy Arch's cavernous opening. The grand finale is a walk through a long deep canyon aptly named Grand Wash. To get back to our car, we had to walk on the main park road which snaps you out of a dream world of hoo-doos, warm-colored rock layers, scented junipers and ancient petroglyphs to bring you back to the real world of traffic and tourists. It would be optimal to have two vehicles - one at Hickman Bridge trailhead and one at Lower Grand Wash trailhead on Highway 24. Cohab Canyon/Frying Pan Trail Start at the sign for Frying Pan Trail/Cohab Canyon across and slightly down the main park road from Hickman Bridge parking. According to local lore, Cohab Canyon got its name because it was a polygamist hideout if lawmen came around. But, lack of diaries and documents from Fruita, the Mormon settlement at Cohab Canyon, indicate it's probably more lore than truth. Intersect with Frying Pan Trail in 0.55 miles, taking a left to head south under Frying Pan Peak. Cohab Canyon Trail continues to the right (west) to Fruita site.
Cassidy Arch Trail - out and back
Hike over cairned and open slick rock 0.5 miles to Cassidy Arch where without warning the sandstone drops below to a spacious opening. It seems appropriate to be named after Butch Cassidy because it's hidden until you are practically on top of it. This a great place to take a break and watch people walk over its top. Stav is Lost describes a canyoneering trip report that begins next to the arch and does several rappels into narrows, a grotto and more arches, and ends up at Grand Wash Road and trailhead. Head back to intersection from which you came and take a right to descend on Frying Pan Trail for 1.0 mile to the intersection with Grand Wash Trail. Cassidy Arch looks like a big tunnel high up on the mesa overlooking Grand Wash. 
Large basalt flows erupted and accumulated in the Boulder Mountains, west of Capitol Reef 20 million years ago. These rounded and vesicular boulders are scattered about everywhere in Capitol Reef, brought there by melt-waters from glaciers that had spread out over the lava flows. Many miles of rolling and tumbling sculpted them into these beautiful shapes.
Frying Pan Trail is well-marked.
View from Frying Pan Trail to the southwest.
Those are some thick sandstone layers!
Topping off on Frying Pan Trail.
On the way down toward intersection with Cassidy Arch Trail. Fern's Nipple on the horizon. Great view of titled layers of the Waterpocket Fold.
Heading down toward intersection with Cassidy Arch Trail.
Cassidy Arch Trail swings down to the right: Cassidy Arch is under the sandstone on the right mesa - its opening on the left edge of that mesa. Fern's Nipple on left horizon.
Suddenly it's there: first view of Cassidy Arch.
From Cassidy Arch looking down onto Grand Wash Road.
Grand Wash Trail
After you get back onto Frying Pan from Cassidy Arch, you'll probably run into hikers coming from the Grand Wash Trailhead to the southeast. Frying Pan Trail is longer but so beautiful and less populated. Grand Wash is a peaceful walk between high walls with dark stripes of manganese and iron minerals contrasting with orange and light yellow sandstone. There's many interesting erosion features such as honeycomb weathering, or tafoni - holes produced in the sandstone from water, wind and ice on surfaces facing the sun. Every turn, every bend brings another great sight to see. Petroglyphs, pecked into sandstone panels, appear near the end of the wash. I'm always intrigued by the people who made these - what did they look like? What tools did they use? What did they eat? I had a great time learning about them when I was writing my petroglyph post - In Search of the Rattlesnake Petroglyph. The road walk back to the trailhead was worth it - It's hard to top Frying Pan Trail - thanks to Stav is Lost for giving us the idea! There is so much more to explore in Capitol Reef, we plan on getting back to this incredible land. I recommend hiking Upper Muley Twist Trail off Burr Road in the southern part of Capitol Reef - it elevates you to an amazing view of the Waterpocket Fold.
Keep on Exploring!
View of Cassidy Arch (top right) from Cassidy Arch Trail descending into wash with intersection to Grand Wash Trail.
Grand Wash
Some cool stuff on the trail: click on the milkvetch and petroglyph photos for more information.
For the Geocurious - The Waterpocket Fold
As national parks go, the map of Capitol Reef is unusual. It's long and vertical area encompasses the Waterpocket Fold, a part of the Earth created during the Rocky Mountain building phase ~ 70 - 50 million years ago. Horizontal rock layers were pushed up by compressional stresses on one side by an underlying fault, creating a classic monocline (mono = one, cline = incline), a steep "ramp" of rocks 4,000 feet higher on the west side than the east. It was further uplifted 15 million years ago, exposing more of the strata to erosion to create "waterpockets" - holes in the rock of varying sizes. Increased tilt of the layers created increased gradient of streams, which accelerated erosion. This unique geological phenomenon revealed strata laid down hundreds of millions years ago in red rock country that has weathered into domes, canyons, arches and cliffs. There are a few scenic loop drives in Capitol Reef NP - a popular drive is Notom-Bullfrog Road/Burr Trail/Scenic Highways 12 and 24 loop. Burr Road crosses the Waterpocket Fold and is incredibly scenic, giving ample geologic "feast for the eyes", especially for the "geocurious". 
Image of Waterpocket Fold from NASA Earth Observatory
A good You Tube video features Capitol Reef park rangers describing in simple terms the creation of Waterpocket Fold:
Monocline Explained: Capitol Reef National Park 
Illustration from Written In Stone - Seen Through My Lens of a classic monocline like the Waterpocket Fold. Compression in the brittle underlying bed rock causes faulting and folding with east-directed forces during mountain-building and the whole Colorado plateau was uplifted. The western block was pushed onto and over the east block causing the fold. This was initiated by the Farallon Plate sliding under the North American Plate.
Our GPS tracks for entire loop - on top of the Waterpocket Fold.
Fred in Grand Wash.
Grand Wash
Our GPS tracks and profile. We hiked counterclockwise from Hickman Trailhead on Hwy 24 to Grand Wash Trailhead.
Google Earth image of our tracks from intersection of Cassidy Arch Trail/Frying Pan Trail (top left) to Cassidy Arch (bottom right).
References
Butch Cassidy- Outlaw - His Early Years. Capitol Reef Country (website). Wayne County Tourism. Capitol Reef Administrative History. Chapter 4: Mormon Settlement. U.S. National Park Service. Capitol Reef: The Waterpocket Fold. Capitol Reef Country. Flight Plan: Part II – Geology of the Circle Cliffs Uplift and the Waterpocket Fold at Capitol Reef National Park. From website: Written In Stone - Seen Through My Lens. NASA Earth Observatory. Traces of an Ancient Watery World In Capitol Reef. Website entry on 5/2/22. Olson, V, Olson, H. 1990. Capitol Reef: The Story Behind the Scenery. KC Publications, Inc.
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More evidence on how exercise helps our brain and immune system, increase our resiliency and decrease anxiety and depression, and how "nature experiences" decrease rumination, a negative emotion. Plus, scenes from a few walks in Snow Canyon State Park.
More resources on Exercise and Mental Health and the Neurofit Lab's Mental Health Tool Kit at end of this post.  Red Sands trail in Snow Canyon State Park Next month I will be back with another adventure post - in this and the last post, I wanted to pass along the positive news of the mind/body connection and how we can find strength, resiliency, optimism and better health. Many of us know the connection between a walk in nature and feelings of optimism, relaxation and happiness. Hiking elevates your mood, decreases anxiety, and helps open your mind for creativity. For the lucky ones, including me, nature is virtually outside my front door. I'm close to Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, where I can walk in the famous picturesque world of Utah's red rock country. However, you don't need this dramatic scenery in order to improve your mood. A study by Stanford University on nature experience and the brain has found that participants who walked in a grassland/oak/shrub environment "greenspace" reported greater feelings of well-being and less stress than those who walked in an urban setting. The question is, "what effect does living in an urban environment have on our mental health?" What surprised me is that humanity is removed from nature more than ever: more than 50% of people live in urban areas. The forecast for the proportion of urban dwellers in 2050 is 70%. Yikes!  "Running is Medicine for my Mind": All the Good Brain Neurochemicals In her Nike Trained: Mental Health Miniseries podcast, neuroscientist and expert in brain health, Jennifer Heisz, PhD. discusses her recent research that shows a definite connection between exercise and movement and the release of brain neurochemicals that decrease anxiety and depression. Her new book, Move the Body, Heal the Mind: Overcome Anxiety, Depression, and Dementia and Improve Focus, Creativity, and Sleep, highlights her latest research in her Canadian lab. Her biggest revelation is that exercise has been found to be equally as beneficial as medication for anxiety and depression, and in some cases, even better than meds. Those that need to stay on their medications, by additionally doing exercise, can lessen potential side-effects from the medications. Heisz also weaves into her book her personal journey of the mental benefits she obtained while training for an Ironman Triathlon - resiliency is one. She made the huge transition from a sedentary academic to a triathlete to experience first-hand exercise's effects on the brain. Because the Ironman Triathlon was cancelled due to the pandemic in 2020, she laid out and completed her own course! Dr. Heisz's website for her book and back story. Exercise, because it acts as an anti-inflammatory, has been found to strengthen the immune system to fight infections. Chronic stress that can cause stress-induced depression compromises the immune system. A health paradox that Heisz discovered from her research, especially apparent during the COVID pandemic, was that many of us wanted to exercise more to improve our mental health, but symptoms of depression and anxiety were getting in the way of doing so. A recent study found that active participants reported less stress during shelter-in-place than did non-active participants.
Endocannabinoids, our body's natural production of cannabis are produced during exercise, helping us to feel mellow, balanced, and content. Endorphins, the body's natural pain killer are also released. I like to say that hiking produces the vital nutrients to thrive - my medicine! In my last post, Experiencing "Flow": The Secret to Happiness, I wrote about what I've known for years: hiking and exercise is crucial for my mental health. Going to a Tai Chi class for eight years really helped me handle and the stress I felt from work. A boy in my class was learning how to utilize Tai Chi for his ADHD disorder, rather than use medications. High-Intensity Interval Training - HIIT During HIIT, you push your body through intervals of near maximal effort with rest in between. In almost all cases, high intensity interval training is beneficial for people with mental illnesses. By maintaining a certain level of stress, your body learns to adapt and then becomes stronger. There is one caveat: people who have anxiety sensitivity, or fear of the normal symptoms that accompany exercise may react negatively to HIIT. Some people are afraid of their hearts beating too fast, or of the feeling of trying to catch their breath, and they over-exaggerate their symptoms. These people benefit from lower intensity exercise, potentially increasing fitness by adapting to increments of challenging exercise.
Neurochemicals immediately released in your brain after exercise.  Basalt flowed into what is now Snow Canyon State Park, covering red and yellow sandstone.     Reduce Rumination - Feel Better! The Stanford study set out to answer the question: "by what mechanism(s) might nature experience buffer against the development of mental illness?" (quoted from the study). It found that nature walks decreased rumination, a dysfunctional pattern of negative self-thought that's associated with depression and other mental illnesses. The subgenual prefrontal cortex becomes activated during rumination. Participants had a brain scan which showed blood flow to this part of the brain. The researchers' hypothesis was correct: blood flow in the subgenual prefrontal cortex decreased after the nature experience used in the study, thereby reducing rumination. This state of decreased rumination also occurs with experiencing "flow" where you are so wrapped up in an activity that you focus on the joy it brings, rather than yourself. Flow occurs in all sorts of people, in all sorts of endeavors where levels of challenge and skill are more or less are equal and at relatively high levels. Thousands of people have been interviewed to share their flow experiences: monks, writers, artists, mountain climbers, surgeons, etc. A common theme is reported - a feeling of optimal happiness and satisfaction. Mix in friends on your hike and nature walks and you have the perfect ingredients for contentment, hope, and happiness. We need to take care of our mental health just as much as we do our physical health, and the research linking movement and mental health is long overdue. Our bodies are a gift! These studies also illustrate the importance of "green spaces" in our urban areas to help reduce mental illnesses. For help with motivation, you can download the Mental Health Tool Kit from Dr. Heisz's Neurofit Lab that identifies problems encountered since the onset of COVID and solutions to get you going. Keep moving, keep hiking, keep exploring! "The wonderful things in life are the things you do, not the things you have." - Reinhold Messner, mountaineer
     Sunrise near Snow Canyon State Park's entrance. Books on Mind/Body Connection and Movement
On-Line Article The chronic stress of coronavirus is affecting your mental health. Here's how exercise can help. The Conversation. Dr. Heisz's Trained Podcast Dr. Heisz's book and back story website
References
Bratman, G., Hamilton, J.P., Hahn, K., Daily, G., Gross, J. 2015. Nature experience reduces rumination and subgenual prefrontal cortex activation. PNAS. Cirino, E. 2019. Ten Tips to Help You Stop Ruminating. Healthline website. Dusenbery, M. How Exercise Affects 2 Important 'Happy' Chemicals in your Brain. Livestrong.com NIH - National Library of Medicine. Physical activity and stress management during COVID-19: a longitudinal survey study. January 2022. Nike Trained: Body and Mind Mental Health Miniseries - Jennifer Heisz, PhD. Podcast: Season 9 Episode 9. Rogers, Marilyn. Doctors Tell Us How Hiking can Change our Brains. From website Lifehack. https://www.lifehack.org/363786/doctors-agree-hiking-good-for-your-mental-health
Break out of the "typical" southwestern Utah hike to discover more remote and interesting backcountry adventures. A short hike up Jarvis' northwest ridge rewards with expansive views of two distinct physiographic regions: the Colorado plateau to the east and the Mojave Desert to the southwest.
Related:
Utah's Red Rock Country Burger Peak: 10,320' - Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, Utah Gardner Peak: 9,488' - Pine Valley Mountains, Utah Desert Plant photos 
Approaching the final ascent on Jarvis Peak's northwest ridge.
Easier route switchbacks just left of summit through pinyons and junipers. Want a more "exciting" ascent? - go around to the right beneath the crags. 
View of Jarvis Peak (highest point on the left side of range) from near summit of West Mountain - Beaver Dam Mountains.
Trip Stats
Location: Beaver Dam Mountains, west of St. George, Utah. This mountain range extends into northern Arizona. Distance/Elevation Gain: 2 miles out and back: 1,100' gain. Start of ridge = 5,453', summit = 6,533'. Coordinates: Trailhead: UTM 12S 0250585E 4108377 N (WGS84). Jarvis Peak: 0251503E 4107770 N. Difficulty: Moderate Class 1 and Class 2 with minimal exposure if use north route around summit block; Class 3 moderate exposure south route. Maps: USGS 7.5 min topo map - Jarvis Peak, Arizona Strip Visitor Map from BLM, All Trails app. for Jarvis Peak. Date Hiked: October 2, 2021 Considerations: High-clearance 4WD needed on access road to base of Jarvis' west ridge, due to rocks and ruts. Walking the road adds 1.7 miles one way. Driving Directions: From St. George, drive northwest on Old Highway 91. Soon after you pass Ivins and cross over the Santa Clara River, reach a junction with Hwy 91 and Gunlock Reservoir. Take a left to stay on Hwy 91. Travel 7.1 miles to the Utah Summit. At the pull-off parking area to the left (east), follow gravel road (not marked and steep and rocky in parts) east for 1.7 miles to a pull-off to the right at a sharp left switchback in the road and park. Jarvis' western ridge to the left is gained in a few hundred feet of walking further on this road. Hike Directions: shortly after parking, walk up road a few hundred feet to see a path on left side of gravel road to gain Jarvis' ridge. Trail is seen most of the hike, with occasional rock cairns - basically stay more or less on top of the ridge. On the way up, the trail treks slightly left of the ridge to avoid cliffs to the right. At the final saddle below the last steep ascent, go up through the trees to the left of the summit for an easier route. We went around the summit's right (south) side but found it difficult to reach summit due to Class 3-4 climb up final summit block.
Overview
You would think that a spectacular 360-degree multi-state and multi-region view from a summit is earned only after a long and arduous hike, but not true with Jarvis Peak. After a short drive from St. George in southwestern Utah and a short one-mile hike, we were looking at Arizona on one side, and Utah on the other. To the northeast, a fantastic view of Red Mountain's cliffs stands out in a long crimson row beneath the snow-dusted peaks of the Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness. The rock towers of Zion Canyon capture the horizon to the east. The huge, dry and rugged Arizona Strip, north of the Grand Canyon with its mountain ranges and alluvial fans spreads to the south. West Mountain Peak with its communication towers, the highest point in the Beaver Dam Mountains (7,680'), is seen not far away to the northwest. The Beaver Dam mountain range is a "sky island" that rises high above a sea of thinly vegetated, dusty, stark, and monotone desert, with the exception of the bright red sandstone in the St. George area. It's great that we can choose either mountains or low desert, according to seasons. It feels like wilderness until you see the cities of Ivins and St. George to the east. The Beaver Dam Mountain range straddles three distinct physiographic regions (provinces) of the southwest -a "geologic triple junction": the Mojave Desert, the Colorado Plateau and Nevada's Great Basin. If you live in St. George, you have access to all of these regions. I know the grandeur of Zion National Park can't be beat (except by the Grand Canyon), but the solitude, beauty, and geologic features of the remote backcountry and wilderness surrounding it is just as noteworthy. Fred and I are discovering that this huge region of southwestern Utah is an adventurer's paradise. And since I am a self-described "geology nerd", there is a lot of area to study and learn about in this region (see "For the Geo-curious" below). 
Beginning of hike, just a few hundred yards from parking on this road; trail leading up to top of ridge - Jarvis Peak behind ridge in this photo.
Quite possibly Mojave prickly pear, AKA Old Man prickly pear.
Our Hike
The huge view of southern Utah and northern Arizona from Jarvis Peak is just a one-mile hike from start to summit. It's not everywhere you can get a grand view in such a short distance. The gradual climb up the northwest ridge is not hugely exciting, but if you go around the right (south) side of the mountain it gets a lot more interesting with Class 3 climbing up final cliff to summit. We summited using the left (northwest) side of the peak. The 1.7-mile 4-wheel drive road from Utah Hill on Highway 91 to the base of Jarvis Peak's northwest ridge gradually becomes steeper, more narrow with ruts and rocks. If you choose to walk the road, the total hike distance out and back would be ~ 5.5 miles. The trail to Jarvis Peak begins just a few hundred yards after parking up the gravel road. It gains the ridge pretty quickly and then stays on it, going through thickets of manzanita and ducking under junipers and pinyon pines. It is marked occasionally by rock cairns as it meanders in sand around and on top of sandstone rocks. The greens of prickly pear, pines, juniper and lichens mix perfectly with the reds of manzanita branches, stained sandstone and pinyon pine cones to create a pleasing southwest desert landscape. 
Trail (bottom) not far from where we parked (top of image).
One of the largest junipers I have ever seen!
We stayed as close to the crest of the ridge as possible. This hike rambles up a series of short climbs and short saddles. Upon reaching the last saddle at the base of the final summit ascent, there is a large rock cairn placed toward the left side of the base. We ignored its subtle direction, telling us to go left. Instead, we first went to the right around the south side of Jarvis Peak, stepping quickly across a loose-rocked steep gully to the back of the peak. I found the short and final Class 3 climb up a vertical crack in cream-colored Queantoweap sandstone was too exposed, because the platform is narrow, slippery and drops steeply. So, we retraced our steps and went by some cool-looking sandstone caves, back to the rock cairn and then found our way up through a gentler, but still steep slope to easily gain the summit.
A rock cairn marks the base of the final peak ascent, directing you to the left side of the summit, up through trees.
We originally went around to the right - up the canyon in shadow with two pinnacles, but I found that final summit cliff too daunting; we came back down and climbed to left of summit through the trees.
Heading toward south side of Jarvis Peak
Maneuvering around the steep back side of summit - Fred behind sandstone ourcrop lower left.
The backside (east-facing) of Jarvis Peak with the sandstone cliffs on east side of its summit.
Jarvis Peak summit looking to the east: Red Mountain near St. George and Pine Valley Mountains on horizon.
Huge pine tree on southeast side of summit.
For the Geo-curious
Jarvis Peak is located in the eastern Beaver Dam Mountains where a "magnificent set of sedimentary rocks" is described by authors of Geologic Map of the Shivwits Quadrangle, Washington County, Utah. This area of southwestern Utah/Northern Arizona is geologically significant not only because it includes all the major rock types - igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic, it also sits between the Colorado Plateau to the west which includes the red and orange rocks of Zion National Park, the Great Basin and Range Province to the west, most easily described as parallel mountain ranges caused by spreading, and the Mojave desert to the south. The geology in the Beaver Dam Mountains is certainly not lacking in variety; it includes major folds as well as structures caused by the earth spreading, alluvial fans and just about every kind of fault. The Redwall Limestone forms impressive cliffs and has abundant coral fossils. It was easy to find geologic maps. You will be hiking on Queantoweap Sandstone (Permian period) on the way up to and including Jarvis Peak, and on its west side look over siltstone and limestone containing fossils. This sandstone is massive (homogenous, lacking internal structure), cliff- and ledge-forming, gray to pink in color, best seen on the right (south) side of peak.
Apex Mine - just one mile south of Jarvis Peak. More recently, ore was mined for its gallium and germanium content. Gallium is used in semi conductors and electronics. Germanium's uses range from infrared optics to cloth and food containers. Copper and silver were originally taken from this mine 1884 - 1962. These are samples of azurite found in this mine. Photos from mindat.org.
Queantoweap Sandstone on Jarvis Peak
Note the honeycomb weathering in upper cavernous recess.
View from the top - road possibly to Apex Mine.
Pinyon pine cone and its seeds - AKA pine nuts
Interactive Google map for Jarvis Peak hike.
Our GPS tracks from access road leading from Utah summit on Hwy 91 to Jarvis Peak.
Profile for Jarvis Peak: only one mile to the summit.
The dip in the profile at the summit shows that we reversed our course and went around to the other side to reach summit.
References
BackroadsWestTrip blogs - Unique Landscapes of the Southwest - backroadswest.com. Hammond, B.J. Geologic Map of the Jarvis Peak Quadrangle, Washington County, Utah. Hintze, L.F., Hammond, B.J. 1994. Geologic Map of the Shivwits Quadrangle, Washington County, Utah. Utah Geologic Survey. McNair, A.H. 1951. Paleozoic stratigraphy of part of Northwestern Arizona: American Association of Petroleum Geologists Bulletin, v. 35, no. 3. Mindat.org. Apex Mine. Washington County Historical Society. The Apex Mine (from internet).
The right combination of on-trail and off-trail hiking, varying terrain including eroded rock formations and aspen-lined meadows, and light use makes this hike in the Pine Valley Recreation Area a great one for beginner and seasoned hikers alike.
Gardner Peak overlooking Pine Valley, Utah
Trip Stats
Location: Dixie National Forest, Pine Valley Ranger District. Trailhead in Pine Valley Recreation Area near town of Pine Valley, north of St. George, Utah. Distance and Elevation Gain: 9.2 miles round-trip; gain of 2,900' in 4.6 miles to summit. Trailhead elevation = 6,627'. Summit = 9,478'. Difficulty: Moderate Class 1 on cairned trail, Class 2 off-trail from base of mountain and Class 3 climbing near summit with minimal exposure. Navigation experience necessary through forest leading to peak as there is no trail. Coordinates: Gardner summit UTM: 12S 282962 E 4141107 N Decimal: 37.391335, -113.451708. Gardner Peak Trail Trailhead: UTM: 0280120 E 4140397N Decimal: 37.38428 -113.48358. WGS84 datum. Permit: Day hikers parking at trailhead inside Pine Valley Recreation Area do not have to pay a fee at entrance station. Navigation aids: Trails Illustrated Topo Map - St. George/Pine Valley Mountains #715, AllTrails app, Garmin GPS, USGS 7.5 minute topo - Grass Valley quad. Date Hiked: September 3, 2021 Considerations: Experience in navigating through forest (no trail) necessary. Geology: Pine Valley Mountains are remnants of the Pine Valley Laccolith, the largest in the U.S. (See For the Geo-curious below). Radiometric dates show the monzonite porphyry rock was formed 22 million years ago. History: Robert Gardner, Jr. was one of the original settlers of Pine Valley who helped establish a lumber mill. Driving Directions: Directions from St. George: Take Highway 18 north for about 24 miles, turn right at the Pine Valley junction (E. Pine Valley Road) and drive 8 miles until you reach a "T" in the road. Turn left and continue for about 1.5 miles. The trailhead is located on the left just after the Pine Valley Recreation Area entrance gate.
For the Geo-curious
A laccolith is a large amount of magma that is injected between layers of rock, causing a dome-shaped mass. In this case, the Pine Valley Laccolith was a final surge of magma that occurred after the initial volcanic vents were shut off, causing the magma to be squeezed and move sideways between the layers of the Claron formation below it and the overlying magma layer. This injection, 22 million years ago, amounted to a 3,000-foot layer of monzonite porphyry, composed mainly of plagioclase and alkali feldspar. This is similar to granite, and when you look at a fresh surface of the rock, you can see the crystals, indicating the rock cooled slowly enough to form large crystals - allowing us to easily see them. The laccolith was uncovered when the volcanic layer above it eroded. The Claron Formation is made of limestone and mudstone; it is the rock that makes the spectacular hoodoos seen in Bryce Canyon National Park.
Overview
The Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, a "sky island" arising among black basalt flows and red sandstone cliffs of southwestern Utah, is the antithesis to the internationally-known Zion National Park seen from its summits. It is a welcome respite for adventurers that have witnessed crowded Zion trails. It doesn't have Zion's spectacular sandstone towers, but it's beautiful forests offer solitude and a large variety of vegetation, including a large stand of virgin Engelmann spruce and many peaceful meadows. The Gardner Peak hike begins in a valley of sagebrush and rabbit brush, ascends a rocky section, extends across large flat outcrops of smoothly eroded rock, through a meadow lined by a large stand of aspens, and finally ascends steeply through large pines and deadfall to a pointed peak of spruce and Douglas fir. The terrain on this hike is ever-changing. Gardner Peak sits right on the Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness boundary and although its trail may not be officially in the wilderness, it feels like it is because the trail is narrow and lightly used. We were only the second group to sign the summit register for 2021. The trail treks through a small area burned from the 2020 Gardner fire. You will reach 2 false peaks before you get to the summit - a narrow rock perch with a great view to the east and the summit's register hidden under rocks.
Interactive map of our GPS tracks to Gardner Peak
Gardner Peak Trail to base of Gardner Peak
Rabbit brush blooming at trailhead - forested Gardner Peak on the horizon.
View ahead of crags - we used these as a landmark to descend peak; rock cairns (right) mark the trail.
Finding the trail through the Gardner 2020 fire section just before you reach the flat meadow before the peak ascent was challenging. When we reached the flat, black-charred trees were scattered about - even the ground was black - and we lost sight of the next cairn. With the help of AllTrails app, we found our way. Go straight ahead when you reach this section; we went too high onto the bare rock to the right. The trail then descends steeply to cross a dry run-off stream section and continues to Jodes Flat, the small meadow at the base of Gardner Peak.
Short section burned from the 2020 Gardner fire.
It's hard to get bored on this hike because the terrain is constantly changing. After winding between small rock outcrops and large trees, and on pine needle accumulations, the view suddenly opens as you tread across long spans of bare rock with some interesting eroded formations. On the way back, after looking more closely, I found two water catchments or small pools in the rocks.
A look at the peak ahead.
One of the many meadows in Pine Valley Mountains
Base of Gardner Peak to the summit
At 3.8 miles from the trailhead, after the short fire area, reach the small meadow - Jodes Flat - to see the thick forest on the west side of Gardner Peak. This is where the trail ends. We walked straight up this flank for a 900' gain, aiming toward the peak coordinates. There is a lot of deadfall to crawl over and Class 3 climbing through huge rock outcrops toward the top, as well as 2 false summits. The exposed crags that we had passed on the trail just before Jodes Flat could be seen on the way up; they provided a good landmark for our summit descent. The summit is small - basically a few huge pointed boulders with a register with a few entries hidden under rocks. Ours and a Montana couple's were the only entries for 2021. The summit is mostly forested, but a view to the east looks over a deep canyon. The ascent was short enough so that we had time to relax in the most perfect weather on the summit, enjoying solitude. A forested summit is not as spectacular as a bare, above-treeline perch overlooking huge expanses of terrain, like Leatherman Peak, which we summited in July. But they are still great and each has its own characteristics that stand out in my memory of them. The reward of finding an unseen summit as you keep on seeing more sky as you climb is extraordinary. Keeping the bare rock outcrop we had passed on the way up in view, and using my GPS trackback, we found our way back to Jodes Flat. The only other hiker we encountered that day was an elderly man making his way up the loose rocky section. We each acknowledged the beautiful day. I hope I will still be hiking at his age - it is a gift to be able to explore the West. So much to see out here, so little time! Keep on exploring! "Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world." John Muir
Yep, there's lots of rocks and trees to navigate when climbing the off-trail portion to the summit!
(900' elevation gain)
Scenes from the top of Gardner Peak
View from Gardner Peak of Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness to the south
The large outcrop near base of peak we used as landmark to descend; rock cairn marks trail after burned section.
Pine Valley celebrating Labor Day
Our GPS track; note extent of 2020 Gardner fire on map. Gardner Peak is on the boundary of Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness Area.
The last section of hike through rock outcrops to the summit.
References:
Miller, R. Our Geological Wonderland: The Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith. The Independent - A Voice for Southern Utah. Feb. 2018. Pine Valley Day: The story of how 'the most beautiful sight' went from lumber supplier to summer retreat. By Reuben Wadsworth reporting in the St, George News. Pine Valley Chapel 1868. Informational flyer about the history of Pine Valley and its chapel, available at the Pine Valley Chapel. Explore this "hidden gem" in the Red Mountain Wilderness; a primitive trail that quickly elevates the hiker from city to a spectacular and peaceful plateau in the southern Utah red rock wilderness.  On top of Red Mountain overlooking Red Sands Trail (wash), part of the Padre' Canyon Loop in Snow Canyon State Park. Trip Stats Overview: Within a few steps of Red Mountain's steep cliffs overlooking the bustling desert cities of Ivins and St. George, Utah, enter a quiet and sublime wilderness of pinyons, junipers and mule deer that is unmarked except for an occasional cairn. The Red Mountain Primitive Trail extends for 11 miles in the Red Mountain Wilderness through saddles crossed by washes and slickrock basins between rocky sandstone spires and crags, with spectacular views of Snow Canyon State Park We hiked this trail's southern 3.5 miles. Location: Red Cliffs National Conservation Area (BLM) in the Red Mountain Wilderness north of Ivins, Utah. Southern trailhead starts at intersection with Toe Trail, at the north end of North 200 E Street in Ivins. North trailhead is just off Highway 18, 15 miles north of Bluff Road in St. George, north of Snow Canyon State Park. Distance: We hiked 3.6 miles of the 11-mile trail, out and back for a total of 7.2 miles. Elevation: Southern trailhead = 3,189': our top point = 4,930'. Difficulty: Mostly strenuous Class 1 on first 0.8 miles; a short section is Class 3 using hand- and foot-holds to maneuver up rocks with mild-moderate exposure. Once on top, navigation and route-finding on unmarked terrain Class 2. Lat/Long: Ivins Trailhead (south): 37.1754 -113.6772. Top point of our hike overlooking Snow Canyon: 37.2129 -113.6707. Trail at Ivins descent (top out onto plateau): 37.1842 -113.6783. Considerations: The first mile from the Ivins trailhead is Class 1 with two short Class 3 maneuvers. Once the trail tops out, there is no marked trail. Experience with navigation and route-finding using a compass/GPS and topo maps is a strongly recommended after top of Red Mountain is reached to avoid getting lost. Dogs must be kept on a leash. A sign at this trailhead reads, "Hazardous, unmaintained route with steep exposed slopes: your safety is your responsibility." Search and rescue operations for lost hikers have occurred. Water: Plan on packing in your water. Permit: None Date Hiked: May 9, 2021. Maps: Google Maps Interactive map below Trail Map and Guide for: St. George, Hurricane and Zion NP, Utah - Adventure Maps.net Santa Clara 7.5 minute topo map (PDF). BLM Red Mountain Wilderness Map. See maps of our tracks below. Geology: Red Mountain's lower slopes are from the Kayenta Formation, the oldest rock in Snow Canyon State Park (190 million years). The horizontal sediment layers are made from rivers depositing mudstone, siltstone and sandstone. The upper slopes, cliffs and top of Red Mountain are a great block of Navajo Sandstone that is younger (180 million years), also seen as a major rock unit of Zion National Park. This Navajo Sandstone exhibits large, sweeping cross-bed features - horizontal and dipping layers of ancient sand dunes deposited in a vast eolian (wind carried) dune field. Red Mountain is bounded by the Gunlock Fault on its west side. It merges with an extensive field of 2.4 million - 2,000 year old basalt flows to the northeast. The Gunlock Fault is a normal fault with the down-drop on its west side (See references below).
Desert Tortoise Habitat Conservation and Large Solar Plants
Mojave Desert Tortoise near Toe Trail at base of Red Mountain Don't get to see these very often - as tortoises can spend as much as 95% of their lives underground in burrows. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has listed this species as "threatened". Recent News: The Sierra Club is one of several environmental groups opposing the massive solar plant project, "Gemini", which would cover 14 square miles (the equivalent of 7,000 football fields) with solar panels, northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada, prime desert tortoise habitat. The Interior Department approved the project, stipulating Arevia Power would have to relocate tortoises to a new habitat. "U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service estimates 15,390 tortoises stand to lose nearly 70,000 acres of habitat in solar projects planned for the Southwestern Deserts." - From The Wall Street Journal, 6/5/2021. 
Our Hike (from Ivins trailhead) It looks impossible to climb, but If you can get up the steep side of Red Mountain and maneuver through its short sandstone cliffs to the dune-like pink-orange sand at the top, you will enter into a beautiful and seldom-visited shrub and woodland ecoregion. Most are satisfied to end their hike in this soft sand to see the cities of Ivins and St. George sprawling 1,400 feet below. Very few venture beyond this onto Red Mountain's long plateau made of washes, spires, wildflowers, pinyon pines, junipers, scrub oak and slick rock basins. This is designated as a "primitive" trail; it is not officially marked. If you want to get some mileage in, you must hike pretty much due north, avoiding deep canyons to the west and east. We found saddles and washes to get us to a large sandstone ridge with a faint trail on top and killer views of Snow Canyon State park to the east, where we stopped for lunch. Occasional boot print paths in the sand go a short distance and then disappear; rock cairn trail markers are few and far between. What makes this hike exquisite is that it combines vegetation from both the Central Basin and Range to its north and Mojave Basin and Range to its south, creating a great diversity of flora and fauna. This, along with dramatic views witnessed in solitude makes this hike special.  The southern end of Red Mountain A good example of two different rock units: the older Kayenta Formation deposited in large streams at the bottom, and the Navajo Sandstone vertical cliffs and ancient sand dunes deposited mid-slope and on top by wind-carried sand. Initial Climb - 1,400 feet in 0.8 miles The initial climb to the top of Red Mountain from the city of Ivins is nearly 1,400 feet in 0.8 miles. Someone during the past year has expertly placed rebar and other metal posts to hold the fast-eroding slopes in place. Rock cairns mark the initial trail. Fun Class 3 climbing (I say "fun" because there are enough hand-and foot-holds so it's not too scary) is required in two spots mid-mountain to get through its cliff band. The path has a few switchbacks, but mainly climbs straight up. At the top, progress is slowed as you trudge through deep pink sand; then there is suddenly no trail. Junipers, prickly pears, yuccas and manzanita are scattered about in the sand and on sandstone bluffs and ledges. After climbing through the cliff band, a few small spray-painted white dots on rocks direct you to ascend to the right. I think too many people were going up to the left or straight up at this point, so following the route decreases erosion on this very erosion-prone hike. Before you get to the cliff band, look for the rebar-stabilized rocks - that's the trail.
Rebar holding rocks in place on the steep initial ascent
The trail tops out on ridge overlooking Ivins and Santa Clara, Utah (left), and Class 3 climbing (right).
Class 3 climbing through cliff band  Climb up the left side of this "triangle rock" in the cliff band, about 1/2 way up face of Red Mountain.  Climb through cliff band: Trail on ridge below Lots of foot and hand holds  Top of cliff band section  Final climb to top of Red Mountain entry onto its plateau Journey on top of Red Mountain At the entry point onto the plateau, it's a good idea to take note of landmarks around you such as mountains - stay oriented. I also take a waypoint on my GPS. Leaving civilization and steep slopes behind, we entered a colorful and sublime woodland - shrub "ecoregion" filled with manzanita and junipers and started heading north. A high point of sandstone is reached 1/4 mile after entering the plateau, and then a beautiful sandy basin opens up 100 feet below, surrounded with rock piles and small domes. Descend down into the basin through short sandstone steps and shelves, turning from an easterly direction to a northerly direction. This little basin lulls you into it and makes you want to stay and enjoy the complementary colors of sky and sand, of juniper and bright red firecracker penstemon. Once in the basin, we aimed due north for a low, shrub-filled saddle on the horizon; we startled a mule deer that trotted away. We began heading north to this green saddle stretched between red and orange ridges and rock piles. Trudging up soft sand washes, we tried to stay close to the ridge on the right which had amazing views of Snow Canyon State Park's basalt flows and orange sandstone formations. We could see that by venturing too far to the left, we would run into Red Mountain's west cliffs. A slight movement in a shrub alerted us, and then a snake's head poked out. We stood and let it cross the wash in front of us as it gave a cursory rattle; it didn't appear too threatened. Navigating through unmarked wilderness takes more time than following an established trail, as we check topo map and compass a few times. It was not too difficult in this case because the "trail" heads north. The trick is to avoid getting sucked into cliff walls and canyons on the west and find the best way around high points on the east. It's satisfying to be able to figure out a way through unmarked territory, to become more wary of the terrain and to know chances are that where your boot falls, no other has fallen before.  Within 0.25 miles of arriving at top of Red Mountain, reach a rim of weathered sandstone encircling a small sandy basin - head left through basin up saddle to the north. Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness on horizon to the northeast (Burger Peak, 10,320').  After topping off on plateau, reach this sandy basin surrounded by sandstone  
 On the east side of the sandy basin reached shortly after topping off onto Red Mountain. Aim toward the light-green shrub covered saddle on the horizon.
Cryptobiotic (biological) soil crusts, made of cyanobacteria, lichens and mosses. These form on easily eroded soils and increase stability and help provide more water infiltration and are the dominant source of nitrogen in pinyon-juniper ecosystems. These crusts hold the soil in place. Recovery of crusts that have been destroyed takes at least 45 years.   One of the first views of Snow Canyon State Park from ridge of Red Mountain primitive trail. Once we ascended the "green" saddle, we stayed to the right, avoiding slickrock basins to the left. We saw a faint trail that ascended through a beautiful steep-sided arroyo and followed it out onto a rocky hillside. This wash had funneled hikers and created a more defined trail at its head, where we negotiated a few rolling rock hills and topped off on the ridge overlooking Snow Canyon State Park where a few faint trails were present. Pinyon pines became more prevalent at we approached 5,000 feet elevation. A thorough look at Red Mountain Trail's 11-mile north/south traverse on Google Earth shows that there is no defined trail to follow on its southern end. However, a defined 2-track trail coming from Red Mountain's north trailhead can be seen. We ended our 3.6-mile hike on the ridge overlooking Snow Canyon, with a view of Red Sands Trail, a sandy wash that is part of the Padre' Canyon loop hike. Looking at Google Earth, I can see that the 2-track coming from the north can be reached through slickrock basins further to the left/west of our route, avoiding some of the high points along the ridge. Future goal: hike the entire 11-mile Red Mountain Trail.   Once over the initial saddle, more washes and shrubs to traverse. Head north through a network of washes and shrubs to rock saddle between two high points on the horizon.  One of the few rock cairns along the way  Finding a route through soft sand  A beautiful example of a Pinyon pine  Small canyon to hike through between open areas.  Lunch break view of Snow Canyon State Park and Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness on horizon Basalt flows fill sandstone valleys  Jurassic sand dunes on top of Red Mountain Turnaround - return to Red Mountain Trail trailhead in Ivins Our lunch rock was elevated 1,550+ feet above the dramatic terrain of Snow Canyon State Park. The red and white Navajo Sandstone is cross-bedded and vertically jointed - remnants of ancient sand dunes. Water has cut valleys that were filled in much later with black basalt flows from the northeast. Looking to the northeast horizon, we could see Burger Peak in the Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, elevation over 10,000 feet - a peak we climbed last year. Elevated above the surrounding desert, we had an airy 360-degree view. The sandstone we were sitting on was warm from the day's unobstructed sun. We used GPS to track back and use a waypoint to reach the sand dunes at the opening of the steep trail onto the plateau, overlapping our ingoing tracks a few times. The sun had warmed the orange-pink fine sand. I watched a fly, or was it a bee, or maybe a "bee-fly" with a long black proboscis collecting nectar from a yellow flower. It kept a connection with the flower as they both swayed back and forth together in the breeze. In full sun on the west side of Red Mountain, we made it through the Class 3 section, climbing down through the rocks backward and finding enough foot- and hand-holds on grippy sandstone layers. The square houses and street grid of the flat valley below are such a contrast to the irregular and varied shapes on Red Mountain. Back to busy civilization from the serene and beautiful world atop Red Mountain. An added bonus to this hike: buy a thirst-quenching drink from a turquoise-painted refrigerator with the red words, "Cold Drinks" at the side of the house next to the trailhead. That is among the many things to look forward to on this adventure.  Back to civilization: Descending cliff band of steep side of Red Mountain overlooking Ivins  Descending to trailhead at Ivins.  Cold Drinks at southern trailhead - just deposit 25 cents for water and $1.00 for energy drinks!!   Snow Canyon State Park, Utah  Our hike (red line) on southern portion of the Red Mountain Trail from Ivins, Utah.  Elevation and distance profile of our hike from top point back to trailhead. We gained almost 2,000 feet total in 3.65 miles.  Google Earth image of our GPS tracks from southern Red Mountain trailhead in Ivins, Utah . Resources:
Bugden, M. Geology of Snow Canyon State Park Cryptobiotic Soils: Jayne Belnap. Holding the Place in Place - USGS: Impacts of Climate Change on Life and Ecosystems. Red Mountain Wilderness Maps - Wilderness Connect Ecoregions of Utah - usgs.gov Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Biek, R.F., and others. USGS publications. Miller, R. Our Geological Wonderland: Snow Canyon State Park Mojave Desert Tortoise - Nevada Fish and Wildlife Service Reflections on Southern Utah's warm colors and a remedy for the Boise winter blues.  Buckskin Gulch, the longest slot canyon in the southwest Paria Canyon - Vermilion Cliffs National Monument  Buckskin Gulch In color meaning and symbolism, red is a physical stimulant. It triggers our adrenal gland, causing us to have energy and take action. It makes us more sensitive to our environment and invigorates us. Orange is the color of warmth, vitality, creativity, and it too increases our activity levels and gives us a sharper awareness of our surroundings. It's no wonder Fred and I escape the low-energy and dispassionate grays and browns of wintertime Boise to reinvigorate in Utah's red rock country. Somewhere between Paragonah and Parowan, on our drive southward to St. George and the Zion area, the landscape transforms from hints of pink to to the blazing oranges and reds of Red Mountain Wilderness. Or we travel to Vermilion Cliffs and Grand Staircase-Escalante areas for adventures in chocolate-brown, pink and maroon sandstone canyons. Like bees to flowers, we have found our way to Southern Utah many times over the past 20 years and there's so much yet to see. If you had to identify one element responsible for the warm colors of Southern Utah, an element that jolts us out of our winter blues and spurs us onto adventure, it would be .....iron. The Navajo Sandstone exposed in Zion National Park shows off the many colors that iron creates. When iron is exposed to oxygen, it produces varying colors; and these colors depend on what form of iron oxide is present. The accumulated sand grains get coated with iron oxide. Hematite is the iron oxide responsible for the saturated reds. Limonite is responsible for the yellows. It's believed that white sandstone formerly had color but then was "bleached" by ground waters that dissolved iron oxides from the upper heights of the Navajo Sandstone. There's a reason Zion gets over 4 million visitors a year: it has the thickest exposure of the colorful and cross-bedded ancient sand dunes that make up the Navajo Sandstone (2,200 feet).  Zion Canyon from cliffs of Mt. Kinesava Bridge Mountain mid-horizon, East Temple to the left of it. Hiking West Rim Trail after a March snowstorm - looking into Zion Canyon at Virgin River. Red Sands Trail - Snow Canyon State Park  Zion's West Rim Trail after a March snowstorm  Cross bedding of ancient sand dune - Zion National Park  Overlooking Zion Canyon and Virgin River from Cable Mountain Angels Landing lower left.  West Rim Trail - Zion National Park  Emerald Pools - Zion National Park  Hidden Pinyon Trail - Snow Canyon State Park  Zion's East Rim Trail Portions of this trail now closed due to large rockfall The color red is pervasive on the Colorado Plateau, a 130,000 square mile province roughly centered on the Four Corners region of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. It's fitting that, when one says "Colorado", one is also saying "the color red" in Spanish. It seems that the Colorado River has had a few names over time, but its name literally describes the red sandstone found in its waters. The Colorado Plateaus Province has 9 national parks, and I am lucky to have hiked or walked in all of them. It also contains 18 national monuments, of which Grand Staircase is my favorite. For our 40th birthdays, Fred and I hiked the Grand Canyon rim to rim and back again the next day; for our 50th birthdays we hiked north rim to south rim. It is an experience never to be forgotten. Rim-to-rim hikers see just about every color of the spectrum in the sediment layers of the 5,000-foot drop and gain in the Grand Canyon, as well as the brown Vishnu Schist - the basement rocks of the Grand Canyon.  The Colorado Plateau Province: South-Southeastern Utah, northeastern Arizona, southwestern Colorado and Northwestern New Mexico. Nearly centered over the "Four Corners" region. map from nps.gov Sometime around 2,000 B.C. until 500 A.D., scientists say, nomadic hunter-gatherers from the Desert Archaic culture used red ochre paint to make pictographs of human-like figures onto the sandstone walls of what is now Horseshoe Canyon. It's a long drive for a short hike, but distances don't matter when standing in front of this incredible wall. As we stared at these red, almost eerie-looking figures, a park ranger quietly came up the path to sit on a nearby fallen cottonwood trunk, as he had almost every day to prevent vandalism. More recently, geologists date the rock art panel between 0 A.D. to 1,100 A.D. It has been interpreted as a sacred place for Archaic hunters. The significant discovery of an old leather bag eroding from sand by visitors in 2005 helped archaeologists piece together a scenario of the Archaic hunter who placed it near the Great Gallery wall. The bag contained three small leather pouches, a water-rounded stone, and marsh-elder seeds. Two of the pouches were stained red by hematite, one of which held chert to make arrowheads; the other probably held pieces of this ore. The seeds were an emergency food cache. The flintknapper/hunter had collected more chert flakes than he needed and was heading southwest to his home. This was an excellent place for him to stash extra hunting tools and food in case of emergency, and an easy landmark to remember and describe to kin. He was walking through a natural travel corridor.  The "Holy Ghost" and the Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon Canyonlands National Park in southeastern Utah  Newspaper Rock - San Juan County, Utah One of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the country. Fremont, Ute, and Anasazi Native Americans contributed to this panel. Designs were created by pecking through the desert varnish to the lighter rock beneath.  Santa Clara River Reserve near St. George.  Mesa Arch at Sunrise - Canyonlands National Park The best spot to photograph this arch was already taken by a photographer and his tripod at 5:30 a.m. Still more than enough places for photographs!  Death Hollow in Grand Staircase/Escalante' National Monument (these are the actual colors - not saturated with Photoshop). One of the most colorful canyons I have been in.  Buckskin Gulch  Snow Canyon State Park at sunrise  In her book "Red: Passion and Patience in the Desert," Terry Tempest Williams effectively conveys how it feels to be in the red rock country. To read her words is to feel the warm sun, the rough sandstone, and the enormous space in the red rock canyons and mesas. She reflects on its physical and spiritual aspects. She grew up in Utah and is also an educator and environmental activist. The more I visit this beautiful place, the more I can relate to her writings. She reminds us to slow down and really "see" and contemplate the land. If we do that, then we can "hear the voice of our conscience. If we listen to that voice, it asks us to be conscious. And if we become conscious, we choose to live lives of consequence." Another quote from her book: "Time and space. In the desert there is space. Space is the twin sister of time. If we have open space then we have open time to breathe, to dream, to dare, to play, to pray to move freely, so freely, in a world our minds have forgotten but our bodies remember. Time and space. This partnership is holy. In these redrock canyons, time creates space--an arch, an eye, this blue eye of sky. We remember why we love the desert; it is our tactile response to light, to silence, and to stillness."
 Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area, Northern Arizona - "The Wave" in Coyote Buttes  "The Wave" Coyote Buttes in Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Only 20 people per day are allowed; we were able to get permits twice during Christmas Holidays before it became so popular!  Petroglyph at confluence of Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness - Arizona  Buckskin Gulch Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs National Monument  Palmer's Penstemon in Snow Canyon State Park, Utah.  Snow Canyon State Park - St. George, Utah  Fred on Upper Muley Twist Trail - Capitol Reef National Park Off of Burr Road, south of Boulder, Utah Great views of the Waterpocket Fold, hike through canyons and on top of mesa Walking through snowmelt from higher up on plateau, but the water wasn't too cold!  Along Taylor Creek on the Double Arch Alcove Hike Zion National Park Kolob Canyons section Leaves were all rotating counter-clockwise in this small pond. References
National Park Service. Analysis and Dating of the Great Gallery tool and Food Bag. Natural History Museum of Utah. Bold Figures, Blurred History: The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. Weaver, Lance. 2020. What Gives Utah's "Red Rock Country" its Color? Utah Geological Survey. Colors of the Navajo Sandstone. nps.gov. sensationalcolor.com. Color Symbolism and the Meaning of Red. Navajo Sandstone. Utah Geology.com. Our attempt at a relentless 3,500-foot gain, sections of Class 3-4 climbing, and route-finding journey under cliffs and over ridges make this fabled summit complete with petroglyphs elusive for now. I recommend this tough, extraordinary hike even if you don't intend on summiting. But do your research first. Related: Utah Mountain Biking: The Cowbell and the Cryptobionic Highway (cryptobiotic crusts) Angels Landing in Zion: Not for the Faint of Heart Southern Utah Hiking and Biking in a Pandemic: Zion, Wire Mesa, and Snow Canyon Canaan Mountain via Squirrel Canyon Red Mountain Primitive Trail - St. George Desert Plant photos  East cliff face below Mt. Kinesava. Summit cannot be seen from this vantage point. Route goes through trees at base of cliffs in shadow, then up to the right following trees to notch. After this, still hundreds of feet climb to summit.
Our Hike Fred and I decided to hike Mt. Kinesava when we saw it towering over the southern entrance to Zion National Park while riding on the Wire Pass Trail near Springdale, Utah. When we finally had a cool day during a more recent hike/bike vacation, we gave it a try. Even though we didn't make it, this mountain is one of the most memorable I have ever hiked. Majestic Mt. Kinesava remains elusive, invincible, its petroglyphs unreachable, at least to us. A grudge peak. Kinesava is more than a hike, it's an experience. The view of red and orange cliffs and pinnacles that tower the more you climb, the increasingly spectacular views of Zion Canyon behind you and the ever-shrinking town of Springdale below create a unique "surround-view" experience of being "perched" for hours. Kinesava's refusal to let just anyone walk on her summit may be the reason why Native Americans chose this place to carve petroglyphs on the mesa just above these challenging rock walls. Landmarks in Zion, like Mt. Kinesava and Sinawava are named after Paiute deities. You have to do your homework for this cross-country hike, but there are few summit reports available. There is a break in the cliff band that surrounds Kinesava's base created by an apparent old landslide where you can enter the terrain that will take you up to the cliffs. You must catch this same entry point on your exit, so a good idea to look back to note where this is by looking at landmarks. Rock cairns mark faint trails, but it seems like you usually find these more often on the way down. Cairns left by previous hikers were helpful in the Class 3-4 sections. For a more detailed hike description, click on "Trip Stats" above. You have to navigate over three ridges before you get to the base of the sheer walls, where you scramble and climb across narrow sections of the cliff in a horizontal/diagonal direction following the line of trees. Here, the climb is Class 3 (climbing with use of hands) up more or less vertical rocks, making your way to the right along cliff base. Where we reached too much exposure (Class 4), we backtracked to find a safer route. It took us longer than we wanted to navigate through the horizontal band of trees under the pinnacled vertical cliffs. We reached a comfortable platform with a good view of the "catwalk", a very narrow section that must be traversed to gain access to the final climb up the diagonal band of trees to the notch that lands you on the plateau above. This is where we stopped; it looked pretty difficult and we didn't have enough time to summit AND get down (see image below). Once on the plateau, Mt. Kinesava's summit is another 300-400 foot climb. (See our GPS tracks below).  Zion Canyon from east face of Mt. Kinesava  Mt. Kinesava from Chinle Trail (on a different hike)  Looking at east face of Mt. Kinesava in the morning. The summit is just behind the largest prominence, mostly hidden from this view. Gate, 1.1 miles from Chinle Trailhead marks Zion National Park boundary. Chinle trail continues to the left. The route goes up the fan-shaped debris slide through the trees, continuing through trees to right of prominence up to notch.  First set of Ridges just after Zion NP Boundary Heading cross-country towards 3 main lower ridges. We went up the ridge to the right in the photo.  We ascended the left (west) ridge, and descended the right (middle) ridge on the way back. At the top of the ridge to the right is a trail and the 3 telephone poles at entry through break in cliff band to arrive at plateau above cliff. I would ascend via the right ridge next time.  We had to lose some elevation and side-hill the left ridge into the small canyon. Aim for the telephone wires and 3 large poles on middle ridge saddle just under passage through cliff band.  Small canyon between left and middle ridges. After descending from west, or left ridge into this canyon, it took us right up to saddle with 3 telephone poles.  Aim for three telephone poles at base of trail that goes through cliff break landslide. On our way back down, we stayed on the ridge that these poles are on, to the right of this image (the "middle" ridge).  Second Ridge Rock slide over bottom cliff base is entry/exit onto plateau above. Defined trail here.  Cairn that marks entry from steep second ridge through lower cliffs to plateau above. These white rocks can be seen above to aim for on the way down off the plateau.
 Third Ridge Approaching horizontal band of trees under sheer cliffs  Everywhere you look, it's spectacular! Zion Canyon  Reached horizontal band of trees for a cliffside lunch - Zion Canyon view.  Fun "passageway" to to get to vertical rocks  Zion Canyon from cliffs of Mt. Kinesava - 6,400 feet Keep on Exploring - Never Stop Climbing Mountains!   This is where we stopped. Trail continues through trees on far left, over the "catwalk" and up through trees to notch. The Way Down The view of the cliff-hugging narrow "catwalk" and vertical rock towers is intimidating. It's a different feeling entirely as I sit here at my desk writing this post, where I am not facing this astonishing scene of exposed walls and loose rocks to climb - it's easy to think now I can do it. Edward Abbey, in his book Desert Solitaire said that Southern Utah "is the most beautiful place on earth." My words don't do justice when describing what it's like to hike in this extraordinary place, where all natural elements seem to fit almost magically together. The orange and green, the soft sand and the hard cross-bedded rocks, the cliffs and the undulating lowlands and streams. The expansive desert with steep mesas standing like platforms under a wide sky. Places to rest and absorb the views among imposing and rugged terrain. Prickly cacti and slender, waving penstemon. We caught a defined trail on the way down that took us a bit too far to the west. The most important thing to remember is to aim for the large white boulders on the edge of plateau; it's your exit point to the ridges below. Hopefully next time I attempt this hike, we will be able to conquer this section, see the petroglyphs on the plateau above, and summit. I already feel lucky to be able to see these sights that not many others have seen before, and to be able to hike with my husband. We have fun! Life is really good. "Freedom begins between the ears." - Edward Abbey, environmental advocate and author of Desert Solitaire   Heading down!   Heading off cliffs onto "third ridge". Springdale, Utah below in river bottom with Virgin River "Our updated trailhead will add 2 hours to the trip, which means that now fewer of you should ever attempt it. DO NOT GET STUCK ON THIS ROUTE IN THE DARK!!!!!"
- zionnational-park.com Trip Stats
 Our route up (blue) and route down (red) Bottom of map shows approach to Zion National Park boundary fence via Chinle Trail (Trailhead on Utah State 9 Highway just before Springdale). I recommend using the ridge that the red trail traverses just after fenceline.  Google Earth image of our hike up after crossing Zion NP boundary fence To avoid losing elevation on the way up, better to take the ridge to the right (east) of the one we took up. This leads up to only break in the cliffs that surround the bottom. Town of Springdale at lower right. References
Chesher, Greer K. Zion Canyon: A Storied Land. 2007. The University of Arizona Press. Quarnstrom, Evan. Zion National Park: Tackling Mt. Kinesava. Website: Evan Quarnstrom: Stories of Travel and Adventure. The Hiker's Code: Brush Up on Trail Etiquette in Time for Hiking Season. Posted 11/5/19 on Utah.com Zion: Mt. Kinesava. Favorite Hikes In and Around Zion National Park. zionnational-park.com When temperatures soar in St. George, Utah, head up to the Pine Valley Mountains to look over Southern Utah and Arizona mountains in a cool, beautiful forest with mature stands of aspens, Mountain Mahogany trees, and plenty of trails and peaks to explore. Related: Canaan Mountain via Squirrel Canyon Angels Landing in Zion: Not for the Faint of Heart Double Arch Alcove Hike - Kolob Canyons in Zion NP  Trip Stats Location: Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, Dixie National Forest, near St. George, Utah Distance/Elevation gain: 12.8 miles out and back/3,670'. Trailhead = 6,650', Summit = 10,320' Difficulty: Strenuous Class 1 on Summit Trail; Class 2 on short spur trail to Burger Peak Date Hiked: May 28, 2020 Trail: Summit Trail #3021 from Forsyth Trailhead just south of Pine Valley, Utah Map: Trails Illustrated #702: Cedar Mtn/Pine Valley Mtn - Dixie National Forest, Utah Coordinates: Forsyth Canyon Trailhead = 37.3836 -113.5068. Burger Peak = 37.3248 -113.5016 Considerations: Creek crossings shallow in late May; snow bank negotiation in shaded western-facing slopes. No permits, dogs must have strict voice control, preferably on leash. Geology: Pine Valley Mountains form the Pine Valley Laccolith, made of monzonite porphyry (intrusive igneous rock). This dome-shaped laccolith was formed when magma was injected between existing rock layers because an outlet for the magma (vent) had been closed. This is the largest laccolith in the U.S. Lakkos is greek for reservoir, lith = stone.  View of southern aspect of Pine Valley Mountains, the largest laccolith in the U.S., from Hurricane, Utah The highest peak is Signal Peak at 10, 365 feet.  North side of Pine Valley Mountains, from town of Pine Valley, Southern Utah Forsyth trail passes by large crags Our Hike: Forsyth Trailhead --> Summit Trail #3021--> spur trail to Burger summit Many people consider Southern Utah synonymous with slot canyons and colorful cliffs, hoodoos, and mesas. Its famous national parks - Zion, Bryce and Arches are gems with spectacular scenes. Except when the temperatures reach 100 degrees. In a way you could say we were lucky because of the hot temps in St. George - otherwise we might have never discovered the cool Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, where we summited Burger Peak to see a vast view of the hot desert below. The Pine Valley Mountains are less than an hour's drive north of St. George, and provide the forested backdrop to the little town of Pine Valley. The drive itself is beautiful, as you pass by a huge cinder cone and gorgeous Snow Canyon State Park. We felt lucky to have "stumbled" onto this wilderness, the second-largest in Utah because of the many trail and peak opportunities. It has the most diverse flora of any Utah mountain range, with ~ 1,000 species identified so far, and numerous meadows. We met a backpacker on a separate hike near Whipple Valley who said he had to go "two meadows over" for his first night. He was doing a loop trip using Summit Trail, which treks 35 miles between entry points at Whipple Valley and Forsyth trailhead, up and along highest Pine Valley Mountains ridge. The first mile wanders through large stands of mature Mountain Mahogany and Ponderosa Pines. Stream crossings over Forsyth Creek are easy, with low stream flow. This forest is so unique, because it has such a wide variety of trees. Tree dead fall on the first mile attests to destructive bark beetles that have plagued many forests throughout the west. At mile two, the trail steepens and follows Forsyth Creek as the canyon narrows. It climbs steadily for the next 4.5 miles to the peak; we ran into our first snow bank around 9,000 feet. A spur trail heading north from Summit Trail takes you to the peak. The view of Southern Utah from the steep cliffs at this intersection is incredible. Forsyth Creek video  First mile of Forsyth Trail   Forsyth Creek
This forest is filled with large, towering aspens. I make a mental note to return in the autumn. Many had names and dates carved into their trunks. The carving above has a date of August 24, 1951. The depiction of a mountain range with a moon overhead made this one unique. This is possibly a Basque sheep herder carving or "arborglyph". There are many Basque carvings in the high countries of the west; the sheep herders had a lot of time to pass and many carved not only their names, but also simple scenes of life in the mountains.   Sue on the trail!  Lunch break at small meadow - 4.2 miles in on Summit Trail
 The spur trail that leaves Summit trail is easy to spot on the left once you walk past killer views of the desert floor below: Snow Valley, Red Mountain, and Zion National Park. Ponderosa Pines and firs, and steep crags dominate Burger's summit. For all practical purposes, we made it to the summit; we stopped at 10, 240 feet due to deep large snow fields. We savored the smell of pines and cool breezes while we looked down at the baking desert.  Finally get an opening in the forest ~ 5.7 miles into the hike to view vast Southern Utah: St. George, Zion National Park  View of Signal Peak, highest point in Pine Valley Mountains from near Burger Peak's summit  Rock walls to walk between and around at Burger Peak's summit The 6.4 mile hike back gave us a lot of time to appreciate this beautiful forest with its mature, towering canopy. We had made a trail through the snow that others could follow easily to the summit. We saw only 4 other hikers the whole day. We were so impressed with this wilderness that we hiked to Whipple Valley a few days later. Pine Valley has an interesting history. It was discovered by Mormon pioneers Gunlock Bill Hamblin, Jacob Hamblin, and Isaac Riddle when they were moving cattle north of Santa Clara for summer grazing. A sawmill to process lumber was erected in 1856. The tall white Pine Valley Chapel stands out as you drive through town. Built in 1868 according to Ebenezer Bryce's plan, it is the oldest meetinghouse in continuous use of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. Bryce reportedly followed a lost cow later into a beautiful canyon - the now famous Bryce Canyon National Park. He had huge granite boulders placed at the corners of the foundation. Bryce's experience in Scotland as a shipbuilder was the impetus for the well-constructed chapel. Regrettably, The Pine Valley Heritage Center in town was closed as we finished the hike. We will be back to explore more of this exquisite wilderness. Possibly some snowshoeing in the winter? For now, we head back to the sweltering St. George heat and its red sandstone to look up to the granite crags and cool Pine Valley Mountains.  Break at the intersection sign - done with most of the large snow drifts!   Descending rugged Forsyth Canyon   Pine Valley Chapel Downloaded from internet: https://www.thisistheplace.org/pine-valley-chapel-rental   Topo map and elevation profile for Burger Peak, Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness, Dixie National Forest, Utah 3,670' elevation gain in 6.4 miles Town of Pine Valley north, trail heads south click on map for larger image  Google Earth image of our tracks from Pine Valley (north, or top of image) Utah to (almost) Burger Peak summit via Summit Trail. Deep snow prevented us from getting to true summit. References
Pine Valley Mounains - Wikipedia Exploring Burger Peak via Forsyth Canyon. Don Gilman, September 26, 2018. Southern Utah Now. Pine Valley Utah Official Home Page - History. pinevalleyutah.org Pine Valley: More than a Chapel - Church History. history.churchofjesuschrist.org Pine Valley Chapel brochure from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints Southern Utah Hiking and Biking in a Pandemic: Wire Mesa, Snow Canyon and Zion National Park4/20/2020 While many stayed home during COVID-19 isolation orders, we ventured to Southern Utah for an unplanned visit to quiet Zion National Park, a spectacular Wire Mesa mountain bike ride, and Snow Canyon State Park. Related: Angel's Landing in Zion: Not for the Faint of Heart Canaan Mountain via Squirrel Canyon Zion National Park - Double Arch Alcove Hike Utah Mountain Biking - The Cowbell and the Cryptobionic "Highway" Desert Plants  Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah Snow Canyon State Park - April 1, 2020 The spring of 2020 will always be remembered as the time of the Coronavirus pandemic. After Fred and I did more research than usual, we managed to get away on our annual Southern Utah trip despite Idaho's order to self-isolate. It states, “The isolation order does not prohibit outdoor activity such as walking, hiking, running or biking, but a safe distance of six feet must be kept between those who do not live in the same household.” Utah’s orders were similar. We are very experienced in the art of social distancing - it comes naturally. This time, however, as we planned our getaway from Boise to sunnier climes, there was a lot more to consider: where could we stay? Could we bring our trailer? Are the Utah state parks and Zion National Park closed? Can we go on trails? Can we go at all? Visions of red and orange rocks, azure skies and red-blooming cacti outweighed the risks, so off we were, with assurances from the manager at the Marriott Hotel in St. George that we wouldn’t be sent home after the 9-hour drive. We had to leave our tent trailer behind as all parks and campgrounds were closed. Into the truck went hiking boots, bike helmets, backpacks, clothes for a few weather conditions, food and clean bikes. The promise of gear-grinding, rock-hopping, open-air adventures and the freedom to explore awaited us. Just a few more rules this time. The chilly morning lent crystal crispness to a clear sky; on our bikes, we faced the yellow and rust-red sandstone towers standing like sentinels along the gravel road in Snow Canyon State Park. The occasional CLINK of small rocks hitting my bike, the crunch of gravel under tires and the pleasant “good morning” greetings of couples walking along the road were the only sounds. Breathe deeply that clean desert air. We stash our bikes at the end of the road and walk a small distance up a narrow white ledge-lined canyon, following a sand wash with smoothed boulders. In the shade of a towering wall the temperature cools suddenly. I catch that unmistakable scent that only desert washes can produce – a sweet mixture of mesquite, yucca and sage, and the earthy scent of damp sand underneath. Snow Canyon State Park is a beautiful place to bike, walk and hike. We like to ride West Canyon Road and then find a high sandstone lookout and scramble up the slickrock for our lunch. This canyon was used by Anasazi and Paiute Indians; more recently, its beautiful ancient sand dunes were featured in Hollywood movies such as Jeremiah Johnson and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. While looking for lost cattle, Mormon pioneers discovered what is now Snow Canyon in the 1850's. Be sure to check out the black basalt that fills some of these canyons, creating a topographic high due to huge volumes of magma in what were formerly streams. Current restrictions as of 4/17/20: Governor of Utah's directive entitled "Stay Safe, Stay Home" which prohibits anyone from going to Snow Canyon State Park that does not live in the county in which it resides (Washington County). All users are to be ready to verify residency. Map of Snow Canyon State Park The Geology of Snow Canyon State Park  Snow Canyon State Park, Utah  Bridge Mountain on east rim of Zion Canyon Zion National Park, April 3, 2020 “Sulking indoors for the duration of this crisis is an obnoxious thought”, said Paul Theroux, Wall Street Journal travel writer. In his article addressing the stay-at-home directives, “A Wanderer’s Guide to Staying Home”, he mentions past famous people who wrote from home or nearby, like Emily Dickinson and Henry David Thoreau. He says, “to self-isolate means confinement; for habitual travelers it is something like punishment”; then he concludes that the “ultimate freedom in travel lies in the road trip – setting off in your own car.” My bare hands stung in the freezing wind blowing through Zion Canyon’s morning half-light as the hulking sandstone giants lining the eastern side shut out the sunlight to the canyon bottom. Fumbling with my camera and tripod, I spent no time looking for gloves, as the light on Bridge Mountain, a massive, cross-bedded ancient sand dune was changing fast. The visitor's center was abandoned, all parking places empty. Part of me felt jubilant that I should have Zion all to myself, to photograph without constraint; the other part felt a slight uneasiness at the absence of people in this place that is visited by four million people each year. The sun now sat on top of Bridge Mountain's ridge; it was time to move on. We weren't surprised when we saw the sign "Angel's Landing Is Closed." It is probably the most famous hike in Zion, and for good reason; to get to a breathtaking view of Zion Canyon, you hold onto bolted chains much of the way while climbing up a narrow fin of sandstone, walls dropping straight down for hundreds of feet on either side. The sign read, "Violation of this closure may result in a fine of up to $5,000, 6 months in jail, or both." I have seen a line of people waiting to ascend but today it was eerily vacant. We continued past this and walked the West Rim Trail to where plants grow on sandstone walls overlooking Telephone Canyon. When we went to the only open shop we could find to get ice cream afterwards, the employee there told us that Zion National Park was closed just one-half hour ago. We'll always remember this lucky day when under sunny skies and perfect weather, we were able to hike Zion on nearly empty trails. Too bad we couldn't do Angels Landing! Zion National Park info and map  Indian Paintbrush in Navajo Sandstone Castilleja scabrida  From East Rim Trail looking at the Virgin River, Angels Landing and Cathedral Mountain - Zion National Park  From the Kayenta Trail looking up toward Castle Dome and Mount Majestic - Zion National Park  Angels Landing on the right; Great White Throne on the left - Zion National Park  West Rim Trail - Zion - 10 years ago after a March snowstorm  Emerald Pools Trail - Zion   View of Mount Kinesava from Eagle Crags Trail south of Zion National Park Wire Mesa Mountain Bike Ride, April 4, 2020 The Wire Mesa loop is a 7.6-mile rock-navigating, killer view single track source of joy. We rode counter clockwise, having prominent Mount Kinesava with its vertical cliffs and other Zion Canyon temples in view until we reached the end of the mesa and the trail contoured to the west. Most of this trail winds in and out of junipers, up and down over forgiving sandstone rocks, close to the mesa's edge. We were surprised at the number of groups of hikers, campers, and bikers practicing their own wilderness social distancing. The steep road up to the mesa from Rockville is best attempted with a 4WD vehicle. Deep tire ruts attested to those who had traveled this clay-soil road probably the week before when there were downpours. Utah mountain bikers are technically skilled, focused on mapping a route up and over sandstone. We got better at this skill as we rode, but we did end up walking our bikes over many "steep" rocks. After this ride, we hiked in the Canaan Mountain Wilderness administered by the Bureau of Land Management, near Wire Mesa. We encountered many cheerful hiking families and couples. The BLM's current Coronavirus Advisory states "Please follow recommendations from the CDC and your state and local health authorities before visiting your public lands..." It will be interesting to find out what directives and orders we must follow for our hiking and back packing trips this summer while we do what we love to do - "natural" social distancing. Meanwhile, the red sand on our bike chains attests to the great adventures we had in Southern Utah. MTB Project - REI - Wire Mesa Loop Information  Wire Mesa Trail - Mount Kinesava on left, along with temples and mountains in Zion Canyon  A great camp spot on Wire Mesa Trail. Mount Kinesava on left
 The art of "social distancing"  Ahhh, that beautiful red clay/sand soil of Southern Utah!  Map of Wire Mesa Trail south of Zion National Park, north of Canaan Mountain Wilderness
Click for larger image Canaan Mountain, a towering plateau of Navajo Sandstone is a classic southern Utah adventure through red sand, forested canyons and over ancient sand dune slickrock. Located south of Zion National Park, it is wild and beautiful. Related: Mt. Kinesava - Zion National Park Double Arch Alcove Hike - Zion National Park Angels Landing In Zion - Not for the Faint of Heart  Ponderosa Pine and petrified sand dune on plateau below Canaan Mountain Trip Stats
"It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it’s still here. So get out there and hunt and fish and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, climb the mountains, bag the peaks, run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, the lovely, mysterious, and awesome space." - Edward Abbey Driving Directions (from Hurricane, Utah) Traveling east/southeast on Utah Highway 59, turn left (east) onto Utah Avenue (right before Subway restaurant in 2018) in Hildale. Continue on pavement for ~ 2 miles, then Utah Avenue curves left (north) and becomes Canyon Street. At 2.5 miles from highway 59, turn right onto Water Canyon Road (road becomes dirt). Travel ~ 1 mile to a sign on the right of the road that reads "Squirrel Canyon Trailhead". Trailhead parking is just ahead.
Hike Directions
  Our route up Squirrel Canyon to lower elevation of Canaan Mountain We ascended to 6,900 feet; the summit is 7,363 feet (note: profile illustrates trail starting at our highest point and descending back to trailhead)  Our route up Short Canyon to Squirrel Canyon to summit of Canaan Mountain at 6,900 feet. The highest elevation of the summit is to the left (west) at 7,363 feet  Beginning of trail at Squirrel Canyon Trailhead in foreground, red arrow points to trail that bears right around red bluff on left to go down into Short Creek in ~ 0.5 miles Our Hike We became "temporarily bewildered" when we didn't see the continuation of the trail just after the descent into the first wash (see photo above), so we lost some time with a little backtracking. This costs precious time, especially when days are short and the hike to the summit is long. We re-oriented and found the trail continued out of the wash and around the red bluff to the left, on its way to Short Canyon. There are no signs or trail markers until the climb up Squirrel Canyon, as this a wilderness area (an advantage: not many people on the trail!) We would still make Canaan Mountain, but not the highest point on its summit which is a longer hike. We stayed in Hurricane, Utah for Thanksgiving weekend in an old Zion NP ranger's cabin. Hiking in and near Zion National Park is a great way to celebrate the holidays. I have been hiking in Zion since the early 1990's. We avoided crowds this time by choosing hikes outside of the park. I was very impressed by the Canaan Mountain Wilderness because of its rugged beauty and all of the sandstone features throughout, and the fact that we basically had the place to ourselves. My kind of holiday!  Entrance into Short Creek Entrance to Squirrel Canyon one mile upstream from this - hike along ATV road on right side of creek We chose the Squirrel Canyon Trail instead of Water Canyon Trail, another approach to Canaan Mountain because we read that the hike goes through water in Water Canyon and the temps were only in the 30's. I plan on doing this hike again via the Water Canyon approach. The hike starts by descending through deep orange sand, across a wash, and continues on the orange sand straight ahead. It rounds the red bluff to the left and then drops into Short Creek, ~ 0.5 miles from trailhead. There were a few people riding ATVs on the trails and washes; they looked like they were having fun. The steep canyon walls shaded Short Creek and its huge Cottonwood trees in the morning. This scene looked much different in the afternoon on the way back to the trailhead with the yellow leaves brightly glowing in the direct sunlight streaming through the canyon. The brief walk up the creek before the trail scrambles up a small bank under a huge grove of Cottonwoods is beautiful. Sand ripples alternating red and black lie under shallow water reflecting the sky. The trail then follows a 4 WD road along the creek, passing by plenty of grey rabbitbrush shrubs whose flower heads glow a cream color in the sun. Patches of white sand are deposited on the bank above the stream, possibly sediment from the white Navajo Sandstone layer further upstream. The entrance into Squirrel Canyon, about one mile upstream is obvious, as the ATV/hiking trail crosses Short Creek. A wide and relatively flat area at the entrance was covered with autumn leaves. The trail ascends Squirrel via the 4WD road and then a single track trail as the canyon narrows. Oak and maple trees surround and form an autumn canopy of red, brown and green, while green moss and maidenhair ferns dripped water seeping from vertical sandstone walls. The trail transitions from the soft tread of seasons of leaves to hard and angular slabs of sandstone to soft white sand as it emerges from the canyon then tops out on a beautiful plateau underneath The Beehive, an ancient sand dune. In a short distance from emerging, the canyon trail intersects with the Sawmill Trail with a pile of rocks marking this point. As we turned left at this point (west), I glanced back to make sure I wouldn't miss this intersection on the way down.  A somewhat ominous entrance into Squirrel Canyon  The Beehive, elevation 6,476 feet Seen as Squirrel Canyon Trail opens up onto plateau above canyon website for climbing The Beehive  Cairns mark route over sandstone while going up Squirrel Canyon An excellent feature of this hike is that it gains enough elevation to walk through at least two geologic formations. The top of Canaan Mountain consists of the massive Navajo Sandstone which is also observed in the towering walls of Zion National Park. The hike appears to be starting in the red cliffs of the Kayenta Formation (mudstone) that lies below the Navajo Sandstone. The transition I noticed was in leaving the red sands and cliffs behind in Squirrel Canyon and ending up on the white rocks and white sand on the plateau above. The upper walls of Canaan Mountain are the White Cliffs of Navajo Sandstone, and at the base are the Vermilion Cliffs which can be seen at the trailhead. These cliffs are widespread throughout southern Utah and Northern Arizona. At this location, they face southeast, and in the morning sun the walls are ablaze with intense orange, yellow and red (read more about geology of this area below). The plateau above the canyon is a wondrous world of layered, cross-bedded, curving cream-colored and orange sandstone, with never-ending examples of eroded Navajo Sandstone features. Huge junipers make you wonder how old they are. Dark and light-striped hoo-doos, domes and platforms in all shapes and sizes are so plentiful - I wished that I was camping up there so I could spend more time looking. Ponderosa pine and juniper contrast against the frozen-in-time deeply angled and curving sand dune cross-beds. The spectacular dark and forested V-shape of the entrance into Water Canyon looms to the south. Time was getting short. We left Sawmill Trail and scrambled up ledges of slickrock to the highest point on the summit north of us, which is not the highest on Canaan Mountain. We found ourselves in yet another world of a flat-topped forested plateau with soft white sand. Only a few hours of daylight left - we had to get back. Sawmill Trail required close attention because it was marked by cairns sparsely at best, requiring us to "hunt" for the trail sometimes. The trail alternated between soft sand and slickrock, steep in parts. Tire tread from a recent jeep was helpful to navigate the way. With each turn, rise and descent, there is almost an overload of beautiful, stark, weird, unusual sights along with the feeling of elevated space and expanse in every direction.  At this point on Sawmill Trail, the only marker for the trail was these scrapes in the slickrock. It rose steeply over the rocks on this rise  Sawmill Trail weaves in and out of soft sand and cross-bedded Navajo Sandstone  Sand of Sawmill Trail lower left hand corner. We hiked to the right, up to the top  At 6,500 feet with view of the Notch toward the south  Leaves found on Squirrel Canyon floor Common trees of southern Utah canyons are Canyon Maple, Boxelder, Fremont Cottonwood, Gambel Oak, Shrub Oak. Ponderosa Pine, Pinyon Pine, Gambel Oak, Manzanita, and Douglas Fir grow on slickrock.  Heading down Squirrel Canyon Beautiful canyon with bright green moss, clear pools and waterfalls, thick canopy of oak and maple trees We saw no one else in the canyon and on the slickrock plateau. It was easy to get sidetracked in Squirrel Canyon while getting almost hypnotized by watching oak leaves floating in clear pools that had ripples on the bottom. As we made our way back to the trailhead, on the ATV trail that runs along Short Creek, a large group of young backpackers were plodding towards us in the deep red sand, laughing and smiling, silhouetted by the late afternoon sun. Huge Cottonwoods, strong and rooted along the white-sand bank with leaves glowing yellow lined our way back down Short Creek. These had massive trunks - the vegetation in this area is so robust and healthy. I'm going back - I can see why the party of backpackers looked so joyous! Next time - Water Canyon! Geology and History The age of rocks on Canaan Mountain are Lower Jurassic (201 - 174 Ma). It is capped by 1,300-foot cliffs of Navajo Sandstone. The Kayenta Formation underlies the Navajo. The Kayenta is then underlain by the Moenave Formation. The base of the White Cliffs of Canaan Mountain is part of the greater extent of the Vermilion Cliffs, which extend over a large area of Utah and Arizona.
 Key to stratigraphic units in above photo: Eroded Navajo Sandstone on cap of Canaan Mountain 1,200 feet thick; Canaan Mountain is ~ 2,000 feet higher than the plain (Jn). Kayenta Formation (Jk), Moenave Formation consisting of the Springdale Sandstone member (Jms), Whitmore Point and Dinosaur Canyon members (Jmwd). (From Geologic Map of the Smithsonian Butte Quadrangle, cited below). References:
   Temps in the 20's at night at ~ 6,200 feet in late November  Sawmill Trail treks through sand and sandstone  Cairns mark first trail off of Sawmill Trail that treks to the lower reaches of Canaan Mountain summit   Pool in Squirrel Canyon  Along Short Creek
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About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west. I hope to hear about your adventures!
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