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Trading western summits for eastern maritime and lakefront fun.
For those who love dogs: Sophie is a Red Merle Australian shepherd, known for their intelligence and lively personalities. I was amazed that she can go and get the correct toy almost every time when commanded. "Merle" refers to the coat's patterns; in this case it is "marbled." We hiked the spectacular Mount Lafayette/Mount Lincoln loop in the White Mountains, a route that rises steeply out of Franconia Notch in New Hampshire to look out over the northern peaks of the state, and treks over the Appalachian Trail. It is spectacular! A bonus was the succession of beautiful waterfalls - one after the other - on Falling Waters Trail. From our vantage point on Lake Winnipesaukee we saw simultaneous firework shows from the nearby towns of Wolfeboro and Meredith on the Fourth of July, as boats whizzed back and forth. "Smile of the Great Spirit" and "Beautiful Water in a High Place" are two translations of the indigenous Abenaki peoples' word for Winnipesaukee. There's actually a lot of interpretations for what this word means. I'd never get tired of the beauty of Lake Winnipesaukee at sunset: a few motorboats skimming slowly in the distance and the yellow and orange sky framed by evening clouds. It's so picturesque with wooded shores and lots of islands and coves. Fred and Janet took us on motorboat tours of the lake. I have a suspicion I'll be longing for that exhilarating coolness next time I'm hiking through a hot desert.  Sophie, a Red Merle Australian shepherd on the banks of Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire. "Smart Sophie" is my nickname for this awesome dog!  Cloudland Falls on Falling Waters Trail, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire.
 Creek near Sandwich, New Hampshire. Bath, Maine - Home of the Best Shipbuilders in the World Bath Heritage Days Festival was in full swing when we arrived to this small town, home of Bath Iron Works, a huge shipyard founded in 1884. American flag bunting hung from Bath City Hall, built in 1929. Performers, a ferris wheel, cotton candy, and carnival games lined Kennebec River over which the Sagadahoc Bridge spanned, bringing Highway 1 to Wiscasset. Downtown's picturesque Front Street with its ice cream shop, drugstore and bars brought me back to past Fourth of July celebrations many moons ago. We walked Popham Beach in Phippsburg, Maine, south of Bath, on a foggy day. On a clear day we would have seen Fox and Wood Islands offshore, but the fog made the shore so beautiful and mysterious as two surfers emerged from it, paddling their boards. Wild roses and grasses grew on sand dunes. Two bad storms earlier this year caused major damage to this beach that altered the waterway, eroded 10 feet of dunes and pulled picnic areas out to sea. You wouldn't think Confederate battleships would venture to this seemingly obscure beach on an Atlantic shore with many river outlets, but Popham Beach's significance for war strategy lies in its proximity to Bath and Maine's capital, Augusta. Popham Beach lies at the mouth of the Kennebec River, less than 15 miles from upriver Bath, where it was feared the Confederates would destroy shipbuilding yards if they gained access to the Kennebec River. The imposing Civil War-era Fort Popham was built with 36 cannon casements to defend the Kennebec. It's an impressive structure built from huge local granite blocks forming 30-foot high walls. Inside it feels like a dungeon might - cold, dark and moist. A family with kids climbing up and down granite spiral staircases and kicking around a soccer ball made it feel less intimidating.  Ah - YUM! Our introduction to Bath, Maine - OystHERS Raw Bar and Bubbly along the Kennebec River.  Bath City Hall decorated for the Fourth of July and Bath Heritage Festival. The clock on the left is a Bath landmark. In 1915, the owner of Bath's Hallet's Drug Store, Fred Cox bought it in Boston, when he saw a "for sale" sign on it. In 1964, when the new owners sold the clock to a Harry Crooker, who intended on putting the clock elsewhere, Bath residents created a public outcry. Bath had to maintain the clock as a condition for keeping it.  This is a really cool city! Very friendly people.  General Dynamics Bath Iron Works on the Kennebec River. On July 27, 2024 the guided missile destroyer USS Patrick Gallagher was christened here. Gallagher was an Irish citizen living in Long Island, New York. He enlisted in the US Marines to fight in Vietnam war, where he received a Navy Cross for jumping on a grenade to protect his fellow soldiers. He was able to toss the grenade into a river before it blew up. He was killed in a firefight 6 months later. Popham Beach State Park at the mouth of the Kennebec River on Maine Coast.
 Kicking the ball around in the enormous Civil War era Fort Popham - why not? The Best Lobster Roll The "welcome book" at our excellent Bath Airbnb recommended The Five Islands Lobster Company in Georgetown, Maine. I've had a few lobster rolls in my life, but this one was THE best! This lobster shack is located in the fishing village of Five Islands in the town of Georgetown, south of Bath. The waters there are among the deepest and coldest on Maine's coast, which means really excellent lobsters. I guess we just missed the "blessing of the fleet," a tradition in which the local clergy pray for a safe and bountiful season. Dining is outside on the wharf, looking at beautiful scenery. BYOB. 16 Essential Maine Lobster Rolls - Eater - Maine We are talking about making this an annual trip. So much to explore in New Hampshire and Maine! People are happy and very friendly. Already looking forward to my next lobster roll and White Mountain hike.
 The view from our picnic table at Five Islands Lobster Company. "The prettiest harbor in Maine" is what some call this shore.  Georgetown, Maine wharf. Five Islands Lobster Company is located a few feet away. A few New England signs.  Popham Beach State Park 
Maybe these Bath residents are appreciating summer by bringing out what has been indoors for so many months!?
Captain and mates aboard a cruise in Boothbay Harbor. If the caught lobster's carapace (from rear of eye socket to end of main body shell) is less than 3.25 inches, it must go back into the sea. This conservation helps to safeguard the lobster population.  Ram Island Light Station, just south of Boothbay Harbor, Maine.
Commissioned in 1883.
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Outstanding hike accessing the spectacular White Mountain's Franconia Ridge and beautiful waterfalls.  On Mount Lafayette's granite at 5,249' with Mount Lincoln behind us on Franconia Ridge. Trip Stats
Location: Northern New Hampshire - White Mountains - Franconia Range. Distance/Elevation Gain: 8.9 miles roundtrip/3,800'. Mount Lafayette = 5,249'. Mount Lincoln = 5,089'. Difficulty: Strenuous Class 1 Maps and Apps: All Trails, National Geographic White Mountain National Forest West Map Date Hiked: July 3, 2024 Trailhead: Bridle Path/Falling Waters Trail on the east side of I-93 in Franconia Notch. Geology: (igneous intrusive rocks)
Useful Links: Appalachian Mountain Club - Greenleaf Hut Mountain Weather Forecast Hike Summary ascending Bridle Path Trail: 0 - 0.2 miles: parking lot at Franconia Notch to intersection of Old Bridle Path and Falling Water Trails 0.2 - 2.9 miles: Old Bridle Path Trail to Greenleaf Hut 2.9 - 4.0 miles: Greenleaf Trail to Mount Lafayette summit 4.0 - 5.7 miles: Mt. Lafayette to Little Haystack Mountain (Franconia Ridge/Appalachian Trail) 5.7 - 8.9 miles: Little Haystack to parking lot via Falling Waters Trail  This guy had just climbed over the steep rocks on Falling Waters Trail to the top of Little Haystack Mountain. The owners assured us he was doing ok! On Top of New Hampshire Again, After 25 Years There's lots of reasons why this New Hampshire loop hike rates a 4.9 out of 5 on AllTrails: beautiful forest, three peaks to summit, a fun ridge (part of the Appalachian Trail) with spectacular views, waterfalls, and just enough challenge. The trailhead is just off I-93. The historic Greenleaf Hut at the base of Mount Lafayette allows you to refuel and replenish your water. We return to our old "stomping grounds" 25 years later - we hiked many summits and trails in the Whites and other ranges back in the late 1990's. We have great memories of hiking in all New England conditions - gorgeous autumns, buggy summers and icy winters. We bought our MSR snowshoes there and continued to use them when we moved to Idaho. Fred proposed to me on Mt. Cardigan, and we were married in Nashua in 1999.
 Trailhead sign at large parking lot in Franconia Notch, just off of I-93.  At the first intersection with Falling Waters Trail and Old Bridle Path - bridge spanning Walker Brook.
 Walking up Old Bridle Trail
Greenleaf Hut finally emerged from the forest. It's full-service season is end of May through mid-October. You can reserve a bed in the unheated bunkhouse and get a full breakfast and dinner and naturalist programs. Another 1.1 mile steep climb brought us to Mount Lafayette's west ridge and the highest elevation for the loop, and also a huge prominence of 3,320 feet. That rivals the west's mountain prominences! These Appalachian Mountains look a lot different than the raw and jagged ranges of the west like the Rockies because they are much older, rounded and eroded. Even though Lafayette is 1,000 feet lower than famous Mt. Washington, New Hampshire's tallest, it still feels like you are on top of the state with spectacular views. On Lafayette's broad summit, hikers lazed in the sun and great weather. The hike along Franconia ridge, part of the Appalachian Trail was glorious. Great to see so much emerald green! We saw the familiar krummholz trees - brought us back to memories of hiking these mountains so many years ago. We had experienced some of the harsh conditions these stunted trees are subjected to on a few hikes - cold winds, snow and ice. By the time we reached our third summit of the day, Little Haystack Mountain at 4,760 feet, we were ready to descend via Falling Waters Trail with no idea the beauty we would see in a few miles. Steep boulders and rocks made the initial straight-down descent slow. As switchbacks appeared, we came upon the soothing sound of Dry Brook which was anything but dry. I see why hikers would prefer to ascend via Falling Waters Trail because you cross and walk in this stream for awhile - the rocks were slippery. Dry Brook descends with a series of beautiful falls. Stunning Cloudland Falls drops down several rock ledges. A light yellow dog named "Lemon" (I wish I would have taken his photo!) needed help from his owner to navigate the slippery rocks. I wished we could re-hike more New Hampshire peaks. I'd choose New Hampshire if I had to live on the east coast, but my heart still lies in America's grand, dramatic and often mysterious southwest.
 First view of Mount Lafayette (far left) and Mount Lincoln (center) on Franconia Ridge.  Approaching Greenleaf Hut with Mount Lafayette rising above it. The hike continues on Franconia Ridge to the right to climb Mount Lincoln. The Greenleaf Hut, built in 1930, is an off-the-grid facility where you can stay in one of the bunkrooms with meals included, is located along the Old Bridle Path.
Greenleaf Hut marks the end of the Old Bridle Path at the intersection of Greenleaf Trail, then climbs 1,000 feet in 1.1 miles to Mount Lafayette summit (above Fred in the photo). Greenleaf Trail begins further north off the I-95 adjacent from the New England Ski Museum.  Getting closer to Lafayette's summit: Cannon Mountain Ski Area in Franconia Notch in the distance.  Getting there!  Mount Lafayette's summit  On Franconia ridge looking northwest at glacier-carved valleys.  Approaching Mount Lincoln - elevation 5,089 feet.  Appalachian Trail/Franconia Ridge approaching Little Haystack Mountain. Mount Liberty and Mount Flume further along the ridge to the left.  Cloudland Falls on the Falling Waters Trail  Bunchberry, or Creeping Dogwood  On the upper portion of Falling Waters Trail. 
  On the Falling Waters Trail. |
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Sue and Fred
About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.
Happy Autumn!
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