Hike Leatherman Peak: 12,228' - On top of Idaho

A challenging climb up the loose-rock north side of Idaho's second tallest peak for spectacular views from the "roof" of Idaho.

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Lunch break at 12,000 feet.

Lunch spot on Leatherman Peak's north slope 
Mt. Borah, Idaho's tallest peak at 12,667' on left horizon.
Road approaching trailhead at upper right; trail goes through pleasant forest in valley.

Trip Stats
Location:  Leatherman Peak, Idaho's second highest, is located in the Lost River Range in the Salmon-Challis National Forest just northeast of Mackay in east-central Idaho.   This rugged range includes seven of the nine "12-ers" - the highest peaks in Idaho.  Two main approaches:  south approach from Leatherman Pass (Lost River Valley) that climbs the west ridge, and north approach from Pahsimeroi Valley and West Fork Pahsimeroi Road climbs the east ridge (our approach).
Distance:  8.7 miles round-trip.
Elevation Gain:  Trailhead = 8,171';   Leatherman summit = 12,228:  Gain = 4,000'.
Date Hiked:  July 7, 2021
Difficulty:   Moderate Class 1 for first 1,000 feet gain, then Very Strenuous Class 2 on loose rock with some route-finding.
Considerations:   This is a very strenuous hike that is exposed most of the way - start hike early!  Obvious trails extend through the talus and on the ridge.  Experience with steep loose-rock climbing and route finding is essential.
Coordinates:  Trailhead at end of West Fork Pahsimeroi Road:  44.1292  N    113.7271 W.       
Leatherman Peak:  44.0820 N  113.7330 W.
Maps and Apps:  USGS Leatherman 7.5 min quad topo, AllTrails GPS tracks.  Interactive Map and Google Earth image of our GPS tracks below.
​Geology:  Sedimentary rocks - marine limestone of Mississippian carbonate banks and turbiditic sandstone and mudstone and conglomerate of Antler flysch trough ~350 Ma (Million years ago).  Crinoid and coral fossils.  Leatherman Peak is a sharp horn carved from Mississippian Scott Peak Formation.  Some of these rocks were intruded with dikes that baked the rock ~ 45-50 Ma, producing flourite veins.  This section of the Lost River range rose due to the Mackay section of the Lost River Fault.
History:  Leatherman Peak is named after Henry Leatherman, one of the Lost River Valley's pioneers from the 1860's.  For more interesting history of this region, see last photo below.

Driving Directions

Hiking Directions

Our Hike
The raw and starkly beautiful Lost River Range that rises steeply from the Lost River Valley in east-central Idaho contains  seven of Idaho's nine highest peaks over 12,000 feet.  It reflects the complex geological processes of folding and faulting that have occurred over eons, creating formidable steep talus slopes, cliffs and crumbling limestone; however each year sees more climbers logging in their nine "12'ers".   These giants make up the roof of Idaho.  Leatherman Peak can be summited from either the Pahsimeroi Valley to its north, or Lost River Valley to its south.  Idaho's highest, Borah Peak at 12,667', has become so popular that the campground at its trailhead is being enlarged.

After Fred and I summited Borah Peak years ago, I had heard that the second highest peak, Leatherman involved more "technical" skills.  So I put that climb into the back of my mind, subconsciously knowing someday I was bound to do it,  but the word "technical" prevented me.   We each turned 60 this year, felt it was time to climb another Lost River range peak, so Leatherman it was.  We climbed the "easier" eastern route that included a slow and steady slog for a 3,000-foot gain on steep loose scree and talus, at times grabbing for fossil-covered limestone outcrops for stability.  There was no "easy" part except for the walk back down through the forest;  this was a challenging climb for us.  As we got within 500 feet of the summit, distant purple-blue skies to the north rumbled with occasional thunder, so our scramble to the top had to be quick but also careful.

Morning glimpse of our goal:  the far dark gray peak on horizon, left side of saddle.

In their book "Younger Next Year", Chris Crowley and Henry Lodge, MD advocate for setting challenging goals they call "kedges" in order to stay youthful.  They call it "ordinary people doing extraordinary things."  A kedge is a light anchor that is dropped ahead of a motionless ship.  Then, raw muscle power is used to pull on the line attached to the anchor, thereby moving the ship forward.  Crowley advocates in order to stay young, we should train six days a week for the rest of our lives (wow!), so a kedge, or goal out of the ordinary will be needed occasionally for motivation.  I wouldn't call Leatherman Peak a full kedge for Fred and I; instead, it is what we call a "mini-kedge."  We had been training on a few summits and hoped we were up for this challenge mentally and physically.

From Mackay, we drove 2 hours and 10 minutes to our trailhead at the end of the West Fork Pahsimeroi Road, via Doublesprings Pass and Horseheaven Pass in the Pahsimeroi Valley.  Here, steep limestone cliffs, some folded and tilted loom above a pleasant sagebrush steppe.  A high-clearance 4WD vehicle is recommended as there are a lot of rocks on the last half of the drive with some slow-going.  I entered the coordinates for the trailhead into Avenza and also followed the directions from the guide book, "Trails of Eastern Idaho" by Margaret Fuller and Jerry Painter.  Included in this guide is a section Scrambling up Idaho's 12,000 foot Peaks .   A few scenes from the drive into the northeast side of the Lost River Range:

The first mile of the hike climbs a manageable 1,000 feet in 2.5 miles along the clear and rushing West Fork of the Pahsimeroi River through a beautiful forest that opens up onto a spacious wildflower-filled valley.  Ahead, the black, towering spectacle of Leatherman Peak rises straight up from the meadow, connected to White Cap Peak by Leatherman Pass.

Trailhead sign for Merriam Lake, Pass Lake, and Leatherman Pass

Junction for trails to Pass Lake and Merriam Lake.  Take Pass Lake trail to Leatherman Peak.

Just after trailhead, cross stream coming from Merriam Lake that flows into West Fork Pahsimeroi River.

Our route takes a left (east) to hike Leatherman's north slope, leaving the Pass Trail before it reaches Leatherman Pass.   Sawmill Gulch is the southern approach from Lost River Valley.

Thank-you for the bridges!

The first glimpse of Leatherman (left); and White Cap Peak (A.K.A. Mount Obsession) on the right.
Continue on trail until you reach a large valley opening and the steep gray gully of Leatherman to the left.

We went too far up-valley toward the pass, so we had to back track to find our gully route, east of the prominent north ridge.  Not the best thing to do, since time is precious in the mountains above tree line.  Once you get to the large meadow, 2.5 miles from the trailhead, leave the trail and start hiking left toward the steep loose-rock gulley below the ridge made mostly of talus that takes you to the ridge.  A human-made trail winds up through this immense gray slope.  After getting up the first steep part of this gulley, doing the rest-step to conserve energy, we took a brief rest to scope out a route to the top.  A trail heads straight up to the lowest part of the ridge line through what seems acres of loose talus.  Fred would have no part of that, so instead we climbed more to the right, using a combination of talus and stable limestone outcrops to scramble up to the ridge.  As we got to almost 12,000 feet, sheets of rain extended in slight curves from blue clouds and distant thunder rumbled.  We climbed to some protective outcrops in case we had to hunker down because of weather.  The storm seemed to be moving across Pahsimeroi and Lemhi Valleys further to the east.  We kept our focus up the steep slope, for looking down with sketchy footing was a bit unnerving.  Glad the limestone, besides having some cool fossils, was rough and grippy.

Leave trail to make initial steep climb into Leatherman's northern gulley; this leads you to the cirque under the ridge.
​Leatherman is behind the black outcrop.

A "sea" of rocks - initial talus climb to gulley
Wait - why do we do this again?

Navigating through a gray rock sea - 3,000' gain
Yes!  It was worth it

Working our way up larger boulders and outcrops of Leatherman Peak below the ridge; looking north onto gulley we ascended from forest below.
We descended via the path through the talus on the right.

Final ridge climb - Leatherman Peak summit

Sue and Fred at 12,228' - another Idaho 12'er for the books!

Bad Rock Peak on ridge between Leatherman Peak and Mount Church
Tom Lopez, in his book Idaho: A Climbing Guide says of this peak,  "Every approach crosses loose scree/talus that will make some climbers sob."

Leatherman Peak's summit - 12,228'

Descending from summit along ridge to descend at saddle.

There's that unforgettable moment when climbing a high, treeless peak and you suddenly see the enormity of what is on the other side of the ridge you have worked so hard to ascend.  In this case, the view on the other side of Leatherman was breathtaking!  We were on top of Idaho, save for Mt. Borah, looking down on Bad Rock Peak and its crazy folds, and over the rest of the Lost River peaks.  We could see the three parallel valleys and their associated mountain ranges of east-central Idaho.  Gray curtains of rain hung over the distant Lemhi range.  Mackay Reservoir was a blue dot in the Lost River Valley.   Lucy Jane Bledsoe, in her book,  The Ice Cave said, "Perhaps climbing a mountain is nothing more than an act of worship, and reaching the barren perch of a summit is to experience pure awe." 

Once on the ridge, the way was easy to the summit cairn of rocks, we heard thunder again to the north and saw clouds gathering to the southwest, too.  Not a great time to hang out on the summit for long, so we snapped photos and signed our names on one of the crumpled pieces of paper stuffed into a water bottle.  Later we found out that lightning strikes from this storm sparked wildfires near Challis to the northwest.

Watching the darkening sky, we followed the ridge trail further down past the point at which we entered it.  Exiting the ridge and kicking our heels into the loose rock with a little added "scree skiing" got us down the main wall to the gully below, lined with low limestone walls at intervals.  As lightning and thunder drew closer, we tried to keep a low profile, but finally had to hunker down under a large outcrop wall in the gully as lightning flashed above and huge raindrops pelted the rocks around us and the forest below.

By the time we got down to the Leatherman Pass Trail, the rain-soaked trees and yellow and red wildflowers in the meadow glistened in the sun.  During the rest of the two miles through the fresh forest, the weather changed again.  Thunder literally followed us out to the trailhead, so we drove out ahead of the storm, huge raindrops again pelting the windshield.

A few bypasses on the rocky road out helped to avoid a few  slippery and steep sections.  The gravel road passes through Mahogany Creek, which had not gained water volume since our morning crossing.

Getting down slope from ridge; route in gully below

Now we have summited three of the nine Idaho "12'ers".   Getting to the top of the rest of the six:  Mount Church, Mount Idaho,  Lost River Peak, Donaldson, Diamond Peak, and Mount Breitenbach would surely qualify as a "kedge", especially for a couple of 60-year old "geezers"!

That night in Mackay, we celebrated with pizza and beer at the Bear Bottom Restaurant's bar and talked to some of the "locals" who had finished their day's work.  We got some tips on great things to see in the area, like the Mackay Mine Hill Tour.  So much to explore, so little time.  We are lucky to have opportunities and freedom to explore our beautiful state and also this beautiful country.  Never stop exploring and climbing mountains!

Red Columbine after rain shower
A welcome sight after all of that gray limestone!

Parting shot of Leatherman Peak with clouds rolling in

This peak is named after Henry Leatherman, a nineteenth century hunter, trapper, teamster and freight carrier in the Lost River Valley.  He was buried in Battle Ground Cemetery with a large plaque that lists 15 people buried there.  The plaque reads, "Battleground Cemetery - Jesse McCaleb was killed by Indians near this spot in 1878.  Later the following pioneers were buried here."  Captain Jesse McCaleb came to Idaho from Tennessee after the Civil War in 1866, where he would become sheriff of Lemhi County.  He was the only settler killed in the skirmish that lasted two days.  For more on this interesting history, see Custer County, Idaho - GenWeb Project.

Our route up Leatherman's north gully/eastern ridge approach
​We went too far toward Leatherman Pass, so had to backtrack.

References
Custer County, Idaho, GenWeb Project - Mackay's Mount McCaleb
Geologic Map of the Borah Peak, Burnt Creek, Elkhorn Creek, and Leatherman Peak 7.5-min quadrangles, Custer and Lemhi Counties, Idaho.  Idaho Geological Survey.
Link, P.K., and Janecke, S.U.  1995.  Geology of East-Central Idaho: Geologic Roadlogs for the Big and Little Lost River, Lemhi, and Salmon River Valleys.
Henry Leatherman - Find a Grave website.