Epic Grand Canyon Rim To Rim Hike in One Day

A journey through one of the World's Seven Natural Wonders.

Standard north → south route for Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail)
Total Distance = 23.5 miles
North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss.  Bright Angel Trail = 9.5 miles/4,350 feet gain.  Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher.  Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim.  
Elevations:  north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim at Bright Angel Trailhead = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'.
Date Hiked:  May 23, 2024
Total elapsed time:  10:58 hours.
Geology:  The deepest rocks are metamorphic Vishnu Basement rocks on the lower part of North Kaibab trail as it enters the Box and Phantom Ranch and at Colorado River (Brama  Schist,  granite intrusive volcanics, pegmatite and aplite dikes).  These are crystalline rocks (1.7 billion years), formed during Early Proterozoic time when continents were colliding, causing compression and mountain-building (orogeny).  Theses are jumbled, interlayered shists and gneisses.
Rim to Rim Resources:
NPS:  Critical Backcountry Updates - Grand Canyon
​NPS:  Grand Canyon Backcountry Trail Distances
​Arizona State University.  North Kaibab Trail - Nature, Culture and History at the Grand Canyon.  
Considerations:  Fred and I recommend anyone undertaking this hike should train and be able to walk at least 15 miles continuously and hike 4,000 feet of elevation gain.  We hiked this 23 years ago with 100-degree temps at Phantom ranch which slowed us down, but we had experience hiking in hot weather.

"Endure.  In enduring, grow strong."  -  Chris Avellone
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"It is a lovely and terrible wilderness, such a wilderness as Christ and the prophets went out into; harshly and beautifully colored, broken and worn until its bones are exposed . . . and in hidden corners and pockets under its cliffs the sudden poetry of springs."   -   Wallace Stegner

View of Grand Canyon from two miles below Bright Angel Trailhead

Jeff, Sue and Fred ready to go at the North Kaibab Trailhead at Grand Canyon's north rim, 6:00 am., temperature 41 degrees.

Epic Adventure
We did it!  Three months of training on southern Utah trails, in St. George and Zion National Park, and on the Skyline Trail in Palm Springs helped Jeff, Fred and I conquer the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike.  Two things helped us:  training for distance and at least 4,000-foot of elevation gain, and we were lucky with weather.  It was cooler than usual!

To observe the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world from its rim is a memorable experience.  But to walk all the way through the depths of it - almost 24 miles from north rim to south rim along the clear and roaring Bright Angel Creek is epic.  Your ability to tolerate a 50 or 60-degree temperature variation, drink enough water, and climb steep, relentless switchbacks will be tested.  

We took longer to do this hike this time (just shy of 11 hours), compared to our last time 13 years ago (9:50).  I felt really tired the last mile up to Bright Angel Trailhead.  I think I slowed Jeff and Fred down a bit!
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North Kaibab Trail → Phantom Ranch 
Lindy dropped us off at North Kaibab Trailhead on the north rim at 6:00 a.m.   As we descended from a fir, spruce and ponderosa pine forest into a rocky color-layered paradise, she drove around to the south rim, descended 4 miles on the Bright Angel Trail to meet us later in the day.   In the shadow of the north rim, we walked along verdant Roaring Springs Canyon to the bright yellow light below, reaching Supai Tunnel, the first restroom and water stop, at 1.7 miles.  Wild roses bloomed against yellow and red walls.  We didn't need a water re-fill until 5.4 miles down the trail at Manzanita Rest Area, a beautiful spot past Roaring Springs.  

We powered our way down the steep portion, through the wide Bright Angel Canyon, tracing the clear and loud Bright Angel Creek with its occasional waterfalls, hiking through Cottonwood Campground.  The prickly pear were so full and healthy; it seemed the creek was flowing much more than we remember from our rim to rim hike 13 years ago.  It appears the southwest has had more rainfall in the past few years.  We hiked rim to rim 23 years ago and then again 13 years ago and it seems Bright Angel Creek was higher this year.  

We were happy to see Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon where we re-filled our water and made sure to drink electrolytes.  The temperature was 85 degrees.  We took 20 minutes in the shade to eat and muster the energy to start the long, warm and steep hike to the south rim.

The dark red, brown and grey Vishnu Basement rocks are one of my favorites of this hike, as you enter the core of the Grand Canyon.  It forms the rough, contorted, massive base for the prettier rock layers above.   It's not often that you get to walk in some of the Earth's oldest rocks; in this case the Vishnu schists, gneiss and granite are 1.7 billion years old. 

You get to see the rapids of the green Colorado River through the mesh floor of the long suspension bridge as it passes a huge swirling eddy near the shore, delivering you to the Bright Angel Trail and a long, arduous hike out.

Water stops along the North Kaibab Trail:  distances from North Kaibab Trailhead.
Grand Canyon Critical Backcountry Updates

• Supai Tunnel:  1.7 miles from trailhead
• Manzanita Rest Area:  5.4 miles
• Cottonwood Campground:  6.8 miles
• Phantom Ranch:  13.6 miles
• Bright Angel Campground:  14 miles

Walking through the north rim's highest rock strata: the Toroweap's cliff-forming limestone and the red siltstone and sandstone Hermit Formation (below).

North Kaibab Trail switchbacks through Roaring Springs Canyon, crosses it at bridge below, heads around cliffs to drop further down-canyon.

Jeff approaching bridge over Roaring Springs Canyon, constructed in 1966 after a flood. This marks the transition between Supai Formation and the Redwall Limestone rock units.

Fred on north rim

The Manzanita Rest Area, 5.4 miles from North Kaibab Trailhead, has pit toilets, water, shade and a lot of space for hikers to spread out and rest.

Bees love yucca blooms!

Bright Angel Creek - more water in it than our previous GC hikes, but northern Arizona/Southern Utah has had more snowfall in the past two years.

In Bright Angel Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail near Cottonwood Campground.

The "box" after Phantom Creek entrance into the Bright Angel Creek, on the left. Metamorphic Vishnu basement rocks surround.

Suspension bridge spanning the Colorado with the Grand Canyon's crystalline basement rocks surrounding, linking north and south rim trails.

Phantom Ranch → Bright Angel Trail 
Water stops along the Bright Angel Trail

• ​​Havasupai Gardens
• Three Mile Resthouse (water off as of 5/30/24)
• Mile and 1/2 Resthouse (water off as of 5/30/24)

The Bright Angel Trail at the river bottom begins sunny, hot and dusty.  We paused where we could find shade.  We stepped to the left, leaning against Vishnu rocks to let a long mule train transporting equipment pass by.  We caught up with a trudging hiker that had started at the north rim at 4:30 a.m.  "It's about six more miles, right?" he asked.  "About 6.5 more miles!" I said, trying to sound encouraging.  

We finally reached Havasupai Gardens, our last water stop (we knew the resthouses above did not have water) with 4.7 more miles to go!  Dousing my hat in the cold water from the "community" faucet and letting it drip down my head felt so good!  Shortly after eyeing the south rim's steep cliffs above that will be our trail, we resumed and were excited to see Lindy, who had descended 4.5 miles to meet us.  

Climbing higher, along Garden Creek, legs are tired, yet the terrain gets more challenging.  We step over countless old juniper logs and rock bars used to stabilize the trail on forever switchbacks.  We are trying to make it in under 11 hours.  Dozens of short-distance south rim hikers congest the last half-mile.  Don't want to lose momentum.  Endure and grow stronger!

Lindy spotted an incredible sandstone boulder along the trail that has fossilized tracks in it.  They are the oldest vertebrate tracks in the Grand Canyon and the earliest evidence of vertebrate animals walking on sand dunes.  They date to  300 million years ago, when Arizona was a coastal plain near the equator.  This article in Smithsonian has a great illustration of how this reptile walks laterally, creating the diagonal footprints:  Fallen Boulder at Grand Canyon reveals Prehistoric Reptile Footprints.

Fossilized footprints found in Manakacha Formation - 313 million years old.

And then the land above the canyon opens up and we arrive at the rim - WE'VE DONE IT!!  We walk victoriously to the Bright Angel Trailhead sign where Lindy snaps our photo.  Margaritas, beer, and burgers follow.

I'm grateful we trained for this epic hike.  I'm even more grateful that I am able to do this hike and witness this natural wonder - up close and personal, step after step, one foot in front of the other.

Suspension bridge over the Colorado River. A short hike on the River Trail to the right takes you to Bright Angel Trail.

In the Grand Canyon's Vishnu crystalline basement rocks: Jeff and Fred heading along the Colorado River to Bright Angel Trail.

This may be a Duffel Service mule train that carries Bright Angel hikers' packs to Phantom Ranch. One company that provides this service is Xanterra.

Looking for shade, waiting to reach Havasupai Gardens, and looking ahead to the rim we get to climb on the Bright Angel.

We've finally met Lindy, who was hiking down from the south rim after driving around from the north rim! Look at those beautiful switchbacks above!

Fred somewhere on the Bright Angel Trail. He doesn't even look tired (I sure was!).

South Rim grandeur.

Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is, you guessed it, 1.5 miles from the south rim. No water here this time.

Sue, Fred and Jeff celebrating on the south rim - 23.5 miles and almost 11 hours since start.

Wildflowers in Roaring Springs Canyon

Very healthy prickly pear in Bright Angel Canyon!

After 23.5 miles - now I can take them off!

Oh beautiful Vishnu Basement rocks on the Colorado

Hike Celebration on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Sue, Fred, Lindy and Jeff. Already planning the next challenge.