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Remote route-finding on Earth's largest landslide to a huge panorama of southern Utah.  Fred on top of Sandy Peak's volcanic rock - 9,537'
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Imagining a Natural Catastrophe Still feeling energized after our Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, we decided to maintain our hiking fitness and get out of St. George's heat to hike a remote peak. I often go to Stavislost website to get ideas. Sandy Peak looked like a great opportunity for us to explore more of the forested Markagunt plateau near Cedar City, Utah. The rocks on Sandy's summit are just a microcosm of Earth's largest landslide - covering at least 1,600 square miles of southwestern Utah's high plateaus. It's called the Markagunt gravity slide, a catastrophic event that happened 20 million years ago when the surface of a huge volcanic field collapsed and slid southward for many miles, placing older rock on top of younger rock. "Markagunt Megabreccia" is the name of this rock unit. Breccia refers to jumbled angular rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix, with "mega' referring to fragments that are larger than one meter length. Catastrophic events like volcanic explosions create breccias. "Markagunt" is the Paiute word for "Highland of Trees". It resides in the Colorado plateau province. Cedar Breaks National Park rises from one of its highest points. Our Route: Avoiding the Steep Climb until it got Really Steep We parked just off the Old Spanish National Historic Trail in Upper Bear Valley. Locally, it is a nice graded road out of Paragonah that is also named Forest Road #077, Markagunt Plateau Trail and Bear Valley Road. 0 - 1.3 miles - walk southeast over Bear Creek right after parking, then walk up road (not numbered) that leads around the knoll to the east and drop into Ashton Creek at when it turns to the right (south). 1.3 miles - 2.9 miles - walk up Ashton Creek. 2.9 miles to summit - steep walk up Sandy's west slope, avoiding the top of the long ridge just to the north of the summit. We couldn't see Sandy Peak from the road approach. If I were to do this hike again, I would get out of Ashton Creek sooner and climb the first ridge on the left (east) I could see, which leads easterly to intersect with Sandy's north ridge. In the creek, we saw what looked to be a hunter's path (found a camera on a tree and a salt lick nearby) that led through a nice forest of pines, aspen and meadows, although we had a bit too many mosquitos. Getting on the ridge sooner out of Ashton Creek would have probably meant less bushwhacking. The steep walk to the top on Sandy's western flank was riddled with deadfall, rocks, and vegetation, adding to precarious footing at times. Maneuvering around rough volcanic blocks at the summit was fun. The view was huge. To the north, we saw smoke from a fire just south of the incredible Tushar Mountain range, and to the southeast the orange rocks near Bryce Canyon. This area of the Markagunt Plateau, squeezed up between Parowan Valley to the west, and the Panguitch Valley to the east has lots of trails, mountains, and mountain-bike friendly roads to explore. Gotta get back there! Visions of a Centro Woodfired Pizza got me through the last bit of route finding out of the creek. Per tradition, after hikes in this area, we went to this restaurant in Cedar City. Route-finding, wilderness, amazing view, pretty tough hike (at least for us), great pizza and great beer makes for the perfect day. Life is good!
  Caltopo Map and profile of our GPX tracks. North at top of map.  Google Earth image of our tracks.  Figuring out our route from Ashton Draw southeastward to Sandy Peak.  Road leading southeastward from Old Spanish Trail (FR 077) toward Ashton Creek. This could be driven by a 4 x 4.  Point where road turns right and we dropped down into Ashton Creek, 1.3 miles from where we parked. Sandy Peak not visible, but the long, lighter-colored rise just north of Sandy is poking out between two cone-shaped rises to the right of Fred.  White columbine in Ashton Creek.  Following cow paths in Ashton Creek until we found a wider trail (hunters' ?) that began on the right side of the creek to cross over to the left.  Really nice hike up Ashton Creek, as long as you stay on the trail!  Sandy Peak finally comes into view, but we were on the wrong side of the creek, so we went down and crossed, then went up the steep slope to the saddle just to the left of the peak.  Looked like buck rub on these new aspens to us.  Monument plant growing on slope with Sandy Peak at the top. The last time I saw Monument plant was on Mackay Peak in Idaho.  Yep, it's a steep and rock-filled slope!   Looks like layers of this volcanic mudflow breccia have separated or spalled from larger rock.  Sandy Peak summit looking northward toward the Tushar Mountain range and a fire south of it.   Descending into Ashton Creek, with lots of aspens. We are parked in Upper Bear Valley, at top of photo. Above this valley is Cottonwood Mountain to the west, where there are more trails. The East Bear Valley Fault runs the length of Upper Bear Valley. References
Biek, R.F., et al. Geologic Map of the Panguitch 30' x 60' Quadrangle, Garfield, Iron and Kane Counties, Utah. 2015. Map 270DM - The Utah Geological Society. Hacker, D.B., et.al. Catastrophic emplacement of the gigantic Markagunt gravity slide, southwest Utah (USA): Implications for hazards associated with sector collapse of volcanic fields. 2014. Geology vol. 42 #11.
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Sweet single track in the Kaibab Plateau's glorious high forest.  Arizona Trail, Kaibab National Forest, Northern Arizona Related Riding instead of Hiking We decided to switch up our usual mode of adventure - hiking - and get on our mountain bikes. After our epic Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day journey a few weeks ago, we noticed the beauty around Jacob Lake and GC's north rim in northern Arizona. Only a few hours drive from St. George, Utah, we got out of the heat to explore the cool, aspen-filled forest on the Kaibab plateau. So many aspens that it reminded me of Colorado high country. We stayed at Kaibab Lodge, five miles from the entrance to the north rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in a spartan "hiker's" cabin, the last place available there. Maybe a rim-to-rim hiker had cancelled at the last minute. The dinner and breakfast buffets were a bit spendy, but then again this is a pretty remote location. The Arizona National Scenic Trail links Mexico to Utah through 800 miles of prime Arizona deserts, mountains, and canyons. It's divided into 43 sections, or "passages." At the Mexico border, it begins in the Huachuca Mountains, trekking through grasslands to gain 3,000 feet to a ponderosa pine forest. The final passage is through Buckskin Mountain to the Utah border, where you can see the Vermillion Cliffs. It's open to hikers, mountain bikers and equestrians. We rode a gorgeous section of this trail through pristine forest and meadows in the Kaibab National Forest on a splendid single track to a viewpoint of the east rim of the Grand Canyon, making a loop by riding back on perfect gravel roads. No other vehicles - we had it to ourselves. The day before this, we just picked gravel roads to explore and ended up at an old cabin, possibly a line shack for ranchers. Our friend Jeff is an avid mountain biker. We hiked the rim to rim trail with him. When I showed him photos of this single track, he said, "Looks great. Let's go." That's the spirit! Looking forward to another northern Arizona adventure!
  Single track nirvana.   Arizona Trail near Jacob Lake, Arizona.  Kaibab Lodge, five miles from Grand Canyon entrance to the north rim. Elevation 8,770 feet, it's a beautiful spot to escape to when it's hot "below."  At Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint - bonus butterfly on the right!  Looking at the Saddle Mountain Wilderness. There's a trail into the canyon below - trailhead right behind us.
 Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint on the Arizona National Scenic Trail.  Sooooo many aspens! This will be a great place in autumn. 
 A journey through one of Earth's Seven Natural Wonders. Standard north → south route for Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail)
Total Distance = 23.5 miles North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.5 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim at Bright Angel Trailhead = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. Date Hiked: May 23, 2024 Total elapsed time: 10:58 hours. Geology: The deepest rocks are metamorphic Vishnu Basement rocks on the lower part of North Kaibab trail as it enters the Box and Phantom Ranch and at Colorado River (Brama Schist, granite intrusive volcanics, pegmatite and aplite dikes). These are crystalline rocks (1.7 billion years), formed during Early Proterozoic time when continents were colliding, causing compression and mountain-building (orogeny). Theses are jumbled, interlayered shists and gneisses. Rim to Rim Resources: NPS: Critical Backcountry Updates - Grand Canyon NPS: Grand Canyon Backcountry Trail Distances Arizona State University. North Kaibab Trail - Nature, Culture and History at the Grand Canyon. Considerations: Fred and I recommend anyone undertaking this hike should train and be able to walk at least 15 miles continuously and hike 4,000 feet of elevation gain. We hiked this 23 years ago with 100-degree temps at Phantom ranch which slowed us down, but we had experience hiking in hot weather. How We Trained for Rim to Rim In One Day (2024 and 2025)
"Endure. In enduring, grow strong." - Chris Avellone "It is a lovely and terrible wilderness, such a wilderness as Christ and the prophets went out into; harshly and beautifully colored, broken and worn until its bones are exposed . . . and in hidden corners and pockets under its cliffs the sudden poetry of springs." - Wallace Stegner  View of Grand Canyon from two miles below Bright Angel Trailhead  Jeff, Sue and Fred ready to go at the North Kaibab Trailhead at Grand Canyon's north rim, 6:00 am., temperature 41 degrees. Epic Adventure We did it! Three months of training on southern Utah trails, in St. George and Zion National Park, and on the Skyline Trail in Palm Springs helped Jeff, Fred and I conquer the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike. Two things helped us: training for distance and at least 4,000-foot of elevation gain, and we were lucky with weather. It was cooler than usual! To observe the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world from its rim is a memorable experience. But to walk all the way through the depths of it - almost 24 miles from north rim to south rim along the clear and roaring Bright Angel Creek is epic. Your ability to tolerate a 50 or 60-degree temperature variation, drink enough water, and climb steep, relentless switchbacks will be tested. We took longer to do this hike this time (just shy of 11 hours), compared to our last time 13 years ago (9:50). North Kaibab Trail → Phantom Ranch Lindy dropped us off at North Kaibab Trailhead on the north rim at 6:00 a.m. As we descended from a fir, spruce and ponderosa pine forest into a rocky color-layered paradise, she drove around to the south rim, descended 4 miles on the Bright Angel Trail to meet us later in the day. In the shadow of the north rim, we walked along verdant Roaring Springs Canyon to the bright yellow light below, reaching Supai Tunnel, the first restroom and water stop, at 1.7 miles. Wild roses bloomed against yellow and red walls. We didn't need a water re-fill until 5.4 miles down the trail at Manzanita Rest Area, a beautiful spot past Roaring Springs. We powered our way down the steep portion, through the wide Bright Angel Canyon, tracing the clear and loud Bright Angel Creek with its occasional waterfalls, hiking through Cottonwood Campground. The prickly pear were so full and healthy; it seemed the creek was flowing much more than we remember from our rim to rim hike 13 years ago. It appears the southwest has had more rainfall in the past few years. We hiked rim to rim 23 years ago and then again 13 years ago and it seems Bright Angel Creek was higher this year. We were happy to see Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon where we re-filled our water and made sure to drink electrolytes. The temperature was 85 degrees. We took 20 minutes in the shade to eat and muster the energy to start the long, warm and steep hike to the south rim. The dark red, brown and grey Vishnu Basement rocks are one of my favorites of this hike, as you enter the core of the Grand Canyon. It forms the rough, contorted, massive base for the prettier rock layers above. It's not often that you get to walk in some of the Earth's oldest rocks; in this case the Vishnu schists, gneiss and granite are 1.7 billion years old. You get to see the rapids of the green Colorado River through the mesh floor of the long suspension bridge as it passes a huge swirling eddy near the shore, delivering you to the Bright Angel Trail and a long, arduous hike out. Water stops along the North Kaibab Trail: distances from North Kaibab Trailhead. Grand Canyon Critical Backcountry Updates
 Walking through the north rim's highest rock strata: the Toroweap's cliff-forming limestone and the red siltstone and sandstone Hermit Formation (below).  North Kaibab Trail switchbacks through Roaring Springs Canyon, crosses it at bridge below, heads around cliffs to drop further down-canyon.  Jeff approaching bridge over Roaring Springs Canyon, constructed in 1966 after a flood. This marks the transition between Supai Formation and the Redwall Limestone rock units.   Fred on north rim  The Manzanita Rest Area, 5.4 miles from North Kaibab Trailhead, has pit toilets, water, shade and a lot of space for hikers to spread out and rest.  Bees love yucca blooms!  Bright Angel Creek - more water in it than our previous GC hikes, but northern Arizona/Southern Utah has had more snowfall in the past two years.  In Bright Angel Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail near Cottonwood Campground.   The "box" after Phantom Creek entrance into the Bright Angel Creek, on the left. Metamorphic Vishnu basement rocks surround.  Suspension bridge spanning the Colorado with the Grand Canyon's crystalline basement rocks surrounding, linking north and south rim trails. Phantom Ranch → Bright Angel Trail Water stops along the Bright Angel Trail
We finally reached Havasupai Gardens, our last water stop (we knew the resthouses above did not have water) with 4.7 more miles to go! Dousing my hat in the cold water from the "community" faucet and letting it drip down my head felt so good! Shortly after eyeing the south rim's steep cliffs above that will be our trail, we resumed and were excited to see Lindy, who had descended 4.5 miles to meet us. Climbing higher, along Garden Creek, legs are tired, yet the terrain gets more challenging. We step over countless old juniper logs and rock bars used to stabilize the trail on forever switchbacks. We are trying to make it in under 11 hours. Dozens of short-distance south rim hikers congest the last half-mile. Don't want to lose momentum. Endure and grow stronger! Lindy spotted an incredible sandstone boulder along the trail that has fossilized tracks in it. They are the oldest vertebrate tracks in the Grand Canyon and the earliest evidence of vertebrate animals walking on sand dunes. They date to 300 million years ago, when Arizona was a coastal plain near the equator. This article in Smithsonian has a great illustration of how this reptile walks laterally, creating the diagonal footprints: Fallen Boulder at Grand Canyon reveals Prehistoric Reptile Footprints.  Fossilized footprints found in Manakacha Formation - 313 million years old. And then the land above the canyon opens up and we arrive at the rim - WE'VE DONE IT!! We walk victoriously to the Bright Angel Trailhead sign where Lindy snaps our photo. Margaritas, beer, and burgers follow. I'm grateful we trained for this epic hike. I'm even more grateful that I am able to do this hike and witness this natural wonder - up close and personal, step after step, one foot in front of the other.
 Suspension bridge over the Colorado River. A short hike on the River Trail to the right takes you to Bright Angel Trail.  In the Grand Canyon's Vishnu crystalline basement rocks: Jeff and Fred heading along the Colorado River to Bright Angel Trail.  This may be a Duffel Service mule train that carries Bright Angel hikers' packs to Phantom Ranch. One company that provides this service is Xanterra.    Looking for shade, waiting to reach Havasupai Gardens, and looking ahead to the rim we get to climb on the Bright Angel.  We've finally met Lindy, who was hiking down from the south rim after driving around from the north rim! Look at those beautiful switchbacks above!    Fred somewhere on the Bright Angel Trail. He doesn't even look tired (I sure was!).  South Rim grandeur.  Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is, you guessed it, 1.5 miles from the south rim. No water here this time.  Sue, Fred and Jeff celebrating on the south rim - 23.5 miles and almost 11 hours since start.  Hike Celebration on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Sue, Fred, Lindy and Jeff. Already planning the next challenge. |
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About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.
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