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This breathtaking hike lived up to the fanfare and legend. It's now one of our favorites.  High over Utah: Mount Timpanogos summit with trail below and Timpanogos Saddle entry onto the ridge, North Timpanogos at end of ridge to the left. Trip Stats
Location: Central Utah - Uinta National Forest - Wasatch Range - Timpanogos Wilderness - Timpooneke Trail #053 Distance: 14.3 miles roundtrip. Elevation gain: 4,400'. Trailhead = 7,360'. Summit = 11,749'. Prominence: 5,270 feet - 47th most prominent mountain in the contiguous U.S. Date Hiked: July 22, 2024. Maps and Apps: National Geographic Trails Illustrated Wasatch Front North #709, AllTrails. See our GPS tracks/topo map at end of post. Considerations: The last 2 miles to the summit is exposed; check weather forecast and start early to get off of summit in case of thunderstorms. Mountain Weather Forecast. Forest Service Timpooneke Trail website. Parking permits are required on Fridays, Saturdays and Holidays between July 8 - October 15. Reservations: Recreation.gov. Geology: Mt. Timpanogos resides in Pennsylvanian (300 Ma) Oquirrh Formation - sandstone interbedded with cherty limestone. Chert is a fine-grained silica made of very small mineral particles. It forms as darker layers or nodules in usually lighter-colored limestone. This rock originated in tropical swamp-forests. Indigenous peoples: named after the hunter-gatherer Timpanogos Utes. tumpi = "rocks" and panogos = "water mouth." Quote: "The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir More Peaks over 11,000 feet in Nevada and Utah
Timpanogos Hike Summary - Timpooneke Trail
This awesome hike up the much-loved and revered rock tower known as Mount Timpanogos lived up to the lore and legend. Its final summit approach perches on its steep, rocky sides where you can gaze upon the cities like Provo that sprawl along Utah Lake's eastern shore on one side, and Robert Redford's posh Sundance Resort on the other. I love these small, ultra-high summits where, when I look down thousands of feet below to glaciers and meadows, I get a funny feeling in my stomach. Mountain goats are often seen: a fellow hiker pointed one out on the west side of the mountain below Timpanogos Saddle. Even before we finished this hike, I wanted to go back again. Lush blankets of wildflowers surrounded the trail, especially in Timpanogos Basin on the way up to the saddle between Mt. Timpanogos and Bomber Peak. I was blown away by the sheer numbers of lupine, bistort, columbine and paintbrush. So many bluebells! "Timp," as this mountain is affectionately called by Utahns, is the second-highest mountain in the Wasatch range. Mt. Nebo, 11,933 feet elevation, which we hiked two years ago, is the highest. Both peaks have a huge prominence, a measure of the vertical distance from summit to lowest contour line encircling that mountain with Nebo at 5,489' and Timpanogos at 5,269'.  Mount Timpanogos summit with Timpanogos Basin, Timpanogos glacier and Emerald Lake below.  Our GPS tracks from Timpooneke Trailhead (lower right), ascending up valley under the Giant Staircase (long ridge to the trail's left), climbing ledges up to the first view of Timpanogos summit and Timpanogos Basin, then up to Timpanogos Saddle, then along ridge to summit. Hike in a southward direction to the summit. Utah Lake and Utah Valley at top of image. Woolly Hole is the cirque directly below North Timpanogos and the upper, smaller cirque to the right of Forgotten Peak is Pika cirque. (Caltopo map of our tracks and elevation profile below) When we got to the trailhead parking lot in the dark, at 5 a.m., we saw a lot of vehicles parked and wondered if people were backpacking. It turned out that many students started the hike at 1:00 a.m. to witness the sunrise from the summit. We passed a lot of groups of them descending. Since this was a Monday, we didn't need a parking pass (see link above for recreation.gov permitting). Seems this is a perfect training mountain for the serious trail runner and cross-country athlete. We met a family at the top who run and hike this mountain every year. The fastest known time is 2 hours and 18 minutes round-trip for 14.3 miles and 5,000 cumulative feet of elevation gain! We were passed by a few runners. On the trail at 5 a.m. with headlamps, we hiked the 7 miles to the summit by 9:30, taking our time and having a "second" breakfast break. It was refreshing to be on an actual and well-traveled trail for a change, since we have been doing more scrambling and navigating to peaks. Aspen Grove Trail, another way up to the summit, intersects with Timpooneke Trail as you enter the basin. A metal building topped with a pyramid-shaped roof with hundreds of signatures scrawled on its walls crowns the summit. This summit hut has overlooked the spectacular scenery of snow, glaciers and lakes and mountain goats for almost 100 years. The Timpooneke Trail was completed in 1921. The pointed roof acts as a survey marker that can be seen with a telescope from the valley below. Next time I would drive a little further on Utah State Hwy. 92 to the Aspen Grove Trailhead and hike Timp from the east. There's a snowfield to hike through in Timpanogos Basin that looks really fun. There's more elevation gain with this approach. I have passed by and eyed this imposing peak many times on Interstate 15. Finally I can say we were on the top! I think we'll join the many hikers and runners to make this an annual pilgrimage.
Waterfall video!  Three miles into the hike up the Giant Staircase: the trail continues over these ledges toward left and into above valley.  View of Timpanogos after climbing the Giant Staircase and entering Timpanogos Basin. Rock "hills" in foreground possibly glacial moraines.  Looking across Timpanogos Basin to the Aspen Grove Trail which treks through the snowfield at the base of Timpanogos.  So many wildflowers! The trail from Aspen Grove trailhead approaches through the snow at the base of Timpanogos, left. Timpanogos Saddle is up ahead - the trail climbing it is visible from here.  Nearing the saddle where hikers are standing: trail runner descending. You can see the summit hut, a small point, on Timp's summit.  Once at the saddle, see a breathtaking view of Utah Valley and Utah Lake, continue on the west side of Mount Timpanogos.  The top of Timp, up ahead, left. Summit hut (point on right side) visible.   A little bit of fun scrambling....  Last set of switchbacks with the summit hut visible on the right.  Looking to the north at Timpanogos Basin and Saddle.  From the summit - we were just way down there! Good view of Emerald Lake.  At the summit!  Almost there!  American Bistort A little fun with Oil Paint Filter in Photoshop!   Caltopo Map of our tracks and Elevation Profile. Sources
Baker, A.A. and Crittendon, M.D. GEOLOGY OF THE TIMPANOGOS CAVE QUADRANGLE, Utah. Wright, R. 'Glass House' on Timpanogos. The Daily Herald, July 20, 2003.
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Trading western summits for eastern maritime and lakefront fun. 
Popham Beach State Park, mid-coast Maine.
For those who love dogs: Sophie is a Red Merle Australian shepherd, known for their intelligence and lively personalities. I was amazed that she can go and get the correct toy almost every time when commanded. "Merle" refers to the coat's patterns; in this case it is "marbled." We hiked the spectacular Mount Lafayette/Mount Lincoln loop in the White Mountains, a route that rises steeply out of Franconia Notch in New Hampshire to look out over the northern peaks of the state, and treks over the Appalachian Trail. It is spectacular! A bonus was the succession of beautiful waterfalls - one after the other - on Falling Waters Trail. From our vantage point on Lake Winnipesaukee we saw simultaneous firework shows from the nearby towns of Wolfeboro and Meredith on the Fourth of July, as boats whizzed back and forth. "Smile of the Great Spirit" and "Beautiful Water in a High Place" are two translations of the indigenous Abenaki peoples' word for Winnipesaukee. There's actually a lot of interpretations for what this word means. I'd never get tired of the beauty of Lake Winnipesaukee at sunset: a few motorboats skimming slowly in the distance and the yellow and orange sky framed by evening clouds. It's so picturesque with wooded shores and lots of islands and coves. Fred and Janet took us on motorboat tours of the lake. I have a suspicion I'll be longing for that exhilarating coolness next time I'm hiking through a hot desert.  Sophie, a Red Merle Australian shepherd on the banks of Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire. "Smart Sophie" is my nickname for this awesome dog!  Cloudland Falls on Falling Waters Trail, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire.
 Creek near Sandwich, New Hampshire. Bath, Maine - Home of the Best Shipbuilders in the World Bath Heritage Days Festival was in full swing when we arrived to this small town, home of Bath Iron Works, a huge shipyard founded in 1884. American flag bunting hung from Bath City Hall, built in 1929. Performers, a ferris wheel, cotton candy, and carnival games lined Kennebec River over which the Sagadahoc Bridge spanned, bringing Highway 1 to Wiscasset. Downtown's picturesque Front Street with its ice cream shop, drugstore and bars brought me back to past Fourth of July celebrations many moons ago. We walked Popham Beach in Phippsburg, Maine, south of Bath, on a foggy day. On a clear day we would have seen Fox and Wood Islands offshore, but the fog made the shore so beautiful and mysterious as two surfers emerged from it, paddling their boards. Wild roses and grasses grew on sand dunes. Two bad storms earlier this year caused major damage to this beach that altered the waterway, eroded 10 feet of dunes and pulled picnic areas out to sea. You wouldn't think Confederate battleships would venture to this seemingly obscure beach on an Atlantic shore with many river outlets, but Popham Beach's significance for war strategy lies in its proximity to Bath and Maine's capital, Augusta. Popham Beach lies at the mouth of the Kennebec River, less than 15 miles from upriver Bath, where it was feared the Confederates would destroy shipbuilding yards if they gained access to the Kennebec River. The imposing Civil War-era Fort Popham was built with 36 cannon casements to defend the Kennebec. It's an impressive structure built from huge local granite blocks forming 30-foot high walls. Inside it feels like a dungeon might - cold, dark and moist. A family with kids climbing up and down granite spiral staircases and kicking around a soccer ball made it feel less intimidating.  Ah - YUM! Our introduction to Bath, Maine - OystHERS Raw Bar and Bubbly along the Kennebec River.  Bath City Hall decorated for the Fourth of July and Bath Heritage Festival. The clock on the left is a Bath landmark. In 1915, the owner of Bath's Hallet's Drug Store, Fred Cox bought it in Boston, when he saw a "for sale" sign on it. In 1964, when the new owners sold the clock to a Harry Crooker, who intended on putting the clock elsewhere, Bath residents created a public outcry. Bath had to maintain the clock as a condition for keeping it.  This is a really cool city! Very friendly people.  General Dynamics Bath Iron Works on the Kennebec River. On July 27, 2024 the guided missile destroyer USS Patrick Gallagher was christened here. Gallagher was an Irish citizen living in Long Island, New York. He enlisted in the US Marines to fight in Vietnam war, where he received a Navy Cross for jumping on a grenade to protect his fellow soldiers. He was able to toss the grenade into a river before it blew up. He was killed in a firefight 6 months later. Popham Beach State Park at the mouth of the Kennebec River on Maine Coast.
 Kicking the ball around in the enormous Civil War era Fort Popham - why not? The Best Lobster Roll The "welcome book" at our excellent Bath Airbnb recommended The Five Islands Lobster Company in Georgetown, Maine. I've had a few lobster rolls in my life, but this one was THE best! This lobster shack is located in the fishing village of Five Islands in the town of Georgetown, south of Bath. The waters there are among the deepest and coldest on Maine's coast, which means really excellent lobsters. I guess we just missed the "blessing of the fleet," a tradition in which the local clergy pray for a safe and bountiful season. Dining is outside on the wharf, looking at beautiful scenery. BYOB. We are talking about making this an annual trip. So much to explore in New Hampshire and Maine! People are happy and very friendly. Already looking forward to my next lobster roll and White Mountain hike.
 The view from our picnic table at Five Islands Lobster Company. "The prettiest harbor in Maine" is what some call this shore.  Georgetown, Maine wharf. Five Islands Lobster Company is located a few feet away. A few New England signs.  Popham Beach State Park 
Maybe these Bath residents are appreciating summer by bringing out what has been indoors for so many months!?
Captain and mates aboard a cruise in Boothbay Harbor. If the caught lobster's carapace (from rear of eye socket to end of main body shell) is less than 3.25 inches, it must go back into the sea. This conservation helps to safeguard the lobster population.  Ram Island Light Station, just south of Boothbay Harbor, Maine.
Commissioned in 1883. Outstanding hike accessing the spectacular White Mountain's Franconia Ridge and beautiful waterfalls.  On Mount Lafayette's granite at 5,249' with Mount Lincoln behind us on Franconia Ridge. Trip Stats
Location: Northern New Hampshire - White Mountains - Franconia Range. Distance/Elevation Gain: 8.9 miles roundtrip/3,800'. Mount Lafayette = 5,249'. Mount Lincoln = 5,089'. Difficulty: Strenuous Class 1 Maps and Apps: All Trails, National Geographic White Mountain National Forest West Map Date Hiked: July 3, 2024 Trailhead: Bridle Path/Falling Waters Trail on the east side of I-93 in Franconia Notch. Geology: (igneous intrusive rocks)
Useful Links: Appalachian Mountain Club - Greenleaf Hut Mountain Weather Forecast Hike Summary ascending Bridle Path Trail: 0 - 0.2 miles: parking lot at Franconia Notch to intersection of Old Bridle Path and Falling Water Trails 0.2 - 2.9 miles: Old Bridle Path Trail to Greenleaf Hut 2.9 - 4.0 miles: Greenleaf Trail to Mount Lafayette summit 4.0 - 5.7 miles: Mt. Lafayette to Little Haystack Mountain (Franconia Ridge/Appalachian Trail) 5.7 - 8.9 miles: Little Haystack to parking lot via Falling Waters Trail  This guy had just climbed over the steep rocks on Falling Waters Trail to the top of Little Haystack Mountain. The owners assured us he was doing ok! On Top of New Hampshire Again, After 25 Years There's lots of reasons why this New Hampshire loop hike rates a 4.9 out of 5 on AllTrails: beautiful forest, three peaks to summit, a fun ridge (part of the Appalachian Trail) with spectacular views, waterfalls, and just enough challenge. The trailhead is just off I-93. The historic Greenleaf Hut at the base of Mount Lafayette allows you to refuel and replenish your water. We return to our old "stomping grounds" 25 years later - we hiked many summits and trails in the Whites and other ranges back in the late 1990's. We have great memories of hiking in all New England conditions - gorgeous autumns, buggy summers and icy winters. We bought our MSR snowshoes there and continued to use them when we moved to Idaho. Fred proposed to me on Mt. Cardigan, and we were married in Nashua in 1999.
 Trailhead sign at large parking lot in Franconia Notch, just off of I-93.  At the first intersection with Falling Waters Trail and Old Bridle Path - bridge spanning Walker Brook.
 Walking up Old Bridle Trail
Greenleaf Hut finally emerged from the forest. It's full-service season is end of May through mid-October. You can reserve a bed in the unheated bunkhouse and get a full breakfast and dinner and naturalist programs. Another 1.1 mile steep climb brought us to Mount Lafayette's west ridge and the highest elevation for the loop, and also a huge prominence of 3,320 feet. That rivals the west's mountain prominences! These Appalachian Mountains look a lot different than the raw and jagged ranges of the west like the Rockies because they are much older, rounded and eroded. Even though Lafayette is 1,000 feet lower than famous Mt. Washington, New Hampshire's tallest, it still feels like you are on top of the state with spectacular views. On Lafayette's broad summit, hikers lazed in the sun and great weather. The hike along Franconia ridge, part of the Appalachian Trail was glorious. Great to see so much emerald green! We saw the familiar krummholz trees - brought us back to memories of hiking these mountains so many years ago. We had experienced some of the harsh conditions these stunted trees are subjected to on a few hikes - cold winds, snow and ice. By the time we reached our third summit of the day, Little Haystack Mountain at 4,760 feet, we were ready to descend via Falling Waters Trail with no idea the beauty we would see in a few miles. Steep boulders and rocks made the initial straight-down descent slow. As switchbacks appeared, we came upon the soothing sound of Dry Brook which was anything but dry. I see why hikers would prefer to ascend via Falling Waters Trail because you cross and walk in this stream for awhile - the rocks were slippery. Dry Brook descends with a series of beautiful falls. Stunning Cloudland Falls drops down several rock ledges. A light yellow dog named "Lemon" (I wish I would have taken his photo!) needed help from his owner to navigate the slippery rocks. I wished we could re-hike more New Hampshire peaks. I'd choose New Hampshire if I had to live on the east coast, but my heart still lies in America's grand, dramatic and often mysterious southwest.
 First view of Mount Lafayette (far left) and Mount Lincoln (center) on Franconia Ridge.  Approaching Greenleaf Hut with Mount Lafayette rising above it. The hike continues on Franconia Ridge to the right to climb Mount Lincoln. The Greenleaf Hut, built in 1930, is an off-the-grid facility where you can stay in one of the bunkrooms with meals included, is located along the Old Bridle Path.
Greenleaf Hut marks the end of the Old Bridle Path at the intersection of Greenleaf Trail, then climbs 1,000 feet in 1.1 miles to Mount Lafayette summit (above Fred in the photo). Greenleaf Trail begins further north off the I-95 adjacent from the New England Ski Museum.  Getting closer to Lafayette's summit: Cannon Mountain Ski Area in Franconia Notch in the distance.  Getting there!  Mount Lafayette's summit  On Franconia ridge looking northwest at glacier-carved valleys.  Approaching Mount Lincoln - elevation 5,089 feet.  Appalachian Trail/Franconia Ridge approaching Little Haystack Mountain. Mount Liberty and Mount Flume further along the ridge to the left.  Cloudland Falls on the Falling Waters Trail  Bunchberry, or Creeping Dogwood  On the upper portion of Falling Waters Trail. 
  On the Falling Waters Trail. Remote route-finding on Earth's largest landslide to a huge panorama of southern Utah.  Fred on top of Sandy Peak's volcanic rock - 9,537'
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Imagining a Natural Catastrophe Still feeling energized after our Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, we decided to maintain our hiking fitness and get out of St. George's heat to hike a remote peak. I often go to Stavislost website to get ideas. Sandy Peak looked like a great opportunity for us to explore more of the forested Markagunt plateau near Cedar City, Utah. The rocks on Sandy's summit are just a microcosm of Earth's largest landslide - covering at least 1,600 square miles of southwestern Utah's high plateaus. It's called the Markagunt gravity slide, a catastrophic event that happened 20 million years ago when the surface of a huge volcanic field collapsed and slid southward for many miles, placing older rock on top of younger rock. "Markagunt Megabreccia" is the name of this rock unit. Breccia refers to jumbled angular rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix, with "mega' referring to fragments that are larger than one meter length. Catastrophic events like volcanic explosions create breccias. "Markagunt" is the Paiute word for "Highland of Trees". It resides in the Colorado plateau province. Cedar Breaks National Park rises from one of its highest points. Our Route: Avoiding the Steep Climb until it got Really Steep We parked just off the Old Spanish National Historic Trail in Upper Bear Valley. Locally, it is a nice graded road out of Paragonah that is also named Forest Road #077, Markagunt Plateau Trail and Bear Valley Road. 0 - 1.3 miles - walk southeast over Bear Creek right after parking, then walk up road (not numbered) that leads around the knoll to the east and drop into Ashton Creek at when it turns to the right (south). 1.3 miles - 2.9 miles - walk up Ashton Creek. 2.9 miles to summit - steep walk up Sandy's west slope, avoiding the top of the long ridge just to the north of the summit. We couldn't see Sandy Peak from the road approach. If I were to do this hike again, I would get out of Ashton Creek sooner and climb the first ridge on the left (east) I could see, which leads easterly to intersect with Sandy's north ridge. In the creek, we saw what looked to be a hunter's path (found a camera on a tree and a salt lick nearby) that led through a nice forest of pines, aspen and meadows, although we had a bit too many mosquitos. Getting on the ridge sooner out of Ashton Creek would have probably meant less bushwhacking. The steep walk to the top on Sandy's western flank was riddled with deadfall, rocks, and vegetation, adding to precarious footing at times. Maneuvering around rough volcanic blocks at the summit was fun. The view was huge. To the north, we saw smoke from a fire just south of the incredible Tushar Mountain range, and to the southeast the orange rocks near Bryce Canyon. This area of the Markagunt Plateau, squeezed up between Parowan Valley to the west, and the Panguitch Valley to the east has lots of trails, mountains, and mountain-bike friendly roads to explore. Gotta get back there! Visions of a Centro Woodfired Pizza got me through the last bit of route finding out of the creek. Per tradition, after hikes in this area, we went to this restaurant in Cedar City. Route-finding, wilderness, amazing view, pretty tough hike (at least for us), great pizza and great beer makes for the perfect day. Life is good!
  Caltopo Map and profile of our GPX tracks. North at top of map.  Google Earth image of our tracks.  Figuring out our route from Ashton Draw southeastward to Sandy Peak.  Road leading southeastward from Old Spanish Trail (FR 077) toward Ashton Creek. This could be driven by a 4 x 4.  Point where road turns right and we dropped down into Ashton Creek, 1.3 miles from where we parked. Sandy Peak not visible, but the long, lighter-colored rise just north of Sandy is poking out between two cone-shaped rises to the right of Fred.  White columbine in Ashton Creek.  Following cow paths in Ashton Creek until we found a wider trail (hunters' ?) that began on the right side of the creek to cross over to the left.  Really nice hike up Ashton Creek, as long as you stay on the trail!  Sandy Peak finally comes into view, but we were on the wrong side of the creek, so we went down and crossed, then went up the steep slope to the saddle just to the left of the peak.  Looked like buck rub on these new aspens to us.  Monument plant growing on slope with Sandy Peak at the top. The last time I saw Monument plant was on Mackay Peak in Idaho.  Yep, it's a steep and rock-filled slope!   Looks like layers of this volcanic mudflow breccia have separated or spalled from larger rock.  Sandy Peak summit looking northward toward the Tushar Mountain range and a fire south of it.   Descending into Ashton Creek, with lots of aspens. We are parked in Upper Bear Valley, at top of photo. Above this valley is Cottonwood Mountain to the west, where there are more trails. The East Bear Valley Fault runs the length of Upper Bear Valley. References
Biek, R.F., et al. Geologic Map of the Panguitch 30' x 60' Quadrangle, Garfield, Iron and Kane Counties, Utah. 2015. Map 270DM - The Utah Geological Society. Hacker, D.B., et.al. Catastrophic emplacement of the gigantic Markagunt gravity slide, southwest Utah (USA): Implications for hazards associated with sector collapse of volcanic fields. 2014. Geology vol. 42 #11. Sweet single track in the Kaibab Plateau's glorious high forest.  Arizona Trail, Kaibab National Forest, Northern Arizona Related Riding instead of Hiking We decided to switch up our usual mode of adventure - hiking - and get on our mountain bikes. After our epic Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day journey a few weeks ago, we noticed the beauty around Jacob Lake and GC's north rim in northern Arizona. Only a few hours drive from St. George, Utah, we got out of the heat to explore the cool, aspen-filled forest on the Kaibab plateau. So many aspens that it reminded me of Colorado high country. We stayed at Kaibab Lodge, five miles from the entrance to the north rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in a spartan "hiker's" cabin, the last place available there. Maybe a rim-to-rim hiker had cancelled at the last minute. The dinner and breakfast buffets were a bit spendy, but then again this is a pretty remote location. The Arizona National Scenic Trail links Mexico to Utah through 800 miles of prime Arizona deserts, mountains, and canyons. It's divided into 43 sections, or "passages." At the Mexico border, it begins in the Huachuca Mountains, trekking through grasslands to gain 3,000 feet to a ponderosa pine forest. The final passage is through Buckskin Mountain to the Utah border, where you can see the Vermillion Cliffs. It's open to hikers, mountain bikers and equestrians. We rode a gorgeous section of this trail through pristine forest and meadows in the Kaibab National Forest on a splendid single track to a viewpoint of the east rim of the Grand Canyon, making a loop by riding back on perfect gravel roads. No other vehicles - we had it to ourselves. The day before this, we just picked gravel roads to explore and ended up at an old cabin, possibly a line shack for ranchers. Our friend Jeff is an avid mountain biker. We hiked the rim to rim trail with him. When I showed him photos of this single track, he said, "Looks great. Let's go." That's the spirit! Looking forward to another northern Arizona adventure!
  Single track nirvana.   Arizona Trail near Jacob Lake, Arizona.  Kaibab Lodge, five miles from Grand Canyon entrance to the north rim. Elevation 8,770 feet, it's a beautiful spot to escape to when it's hot "below."  At Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint - bonus butterfly on the right!  Looking at the Saddle Mountain Wilderness. There's a trail into the canyon below - trailhead right behind us.
 Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint on the Arizona National Scenic Trail.  Sooooo many aspens! This will be a great place in autumn. 
 A journey through one of the World's Seven Natural Wonders. Standard north → south route for Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail)
Total Distance = 23.5 miles North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.5 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim at Bright Angel Trailhead = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. Date Hiked: May 23, 2024 Total elapsed time: 10:58 hours. Geology: The deepest rocks are metamorphic Vishnu Basement rocks on the lower part of North Kaibab trail as it enters the Box and Phantom Ranch and at Colorado River (Brama Schist, granite intrusive volcanics, pegmatite and aplite dikes). These are crystalline rocks (1.7 billion years), formed during Early Proterozoic time when continents were colliding, causing compression and mountain-building (orogeny). Theses are jumbled, interlayered shists and gneisses. Rim to Rim Resources: NPS: Critical Backcountry Updates - Grand Canyon NPS: Grand Canyon Backcountry Trail Distances Arizona State University. North Kaibab Trail - Nature, Culture and History at the Grand Canyon. Considerations: Fred and I recommend anyone undertaking this hike should train and be able to walk at least 15 miles continuously and hike 4,000 feet of elevation gain. We hiked this 23 years ago with 100-degree temps at Phantom ranch which slowed us down, but we had experience hiking in hot weather. "Endure. In enduring, grow strong." - Chris Avellone "It is a lovely and terrible wilderness, such a wilderness as Christ and the prophets went out into; harshly and beautifully colored, broken and worn until its bones are exposed . . . and in hidden corners and pockets under its cliffs the sudden poetry of springs." - Wallace Stegner  View of Grand Canyon from two miles below Bright Angel Trailhead  Jeff, Sue and Fred ready to go at the North Kaibab Trailhead at Grand Canyon's north rim, 6:00 am., temperature 41 degrees. Epic Adventure We did it! Three months of training on southern Utah trails, in St. George and Zion National Park, and on the Skyline Trail in Palm Springs helped Jeff, Fred and I conquer the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike. Two things helped us: training for distance and at least 4,000-foot of elevation gain, and we were lucky with weather. It was cooler than usual! To observe the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world from its rim is a memorable experience. But to walk all the way through the depths of it - almost 24 miles from north rim to south rim along the clear and roaring Bright Angel Creek is epic. Your ability to tolerate a 50 or 60-degree temperature variation, drink enough water, and climb steep, relentless switchbacks will be tested. We took longer to do this hike this time (just shy of 11 hours), compared to our last time 13 years ago (9:50). I felt really tired the last mile up to Bright Angel Trailhead. I think I slowed Jeff and Fred down a bit! North Kaibab Trail → Phantom Ranch Lindy dropped us off at North Kaibab Trailhead on the north rim at 6:00 a.m. As we descended from a fir, spruce and ponderosa pine forest into a rocky color-layered paradise, she drove around to the south rim, descended 4 miles on the Bright Angel Trail to meet us later in the day. In the shadow of the north rim, we walked along verdant Roaring Springs Canyon to the bright yellow light below, reaching Supai Tunnel, the first restroom and water stop, at 1.7 miles. Wild roses bloomed against yellow and red walls. We didn't need a water re-fill until 5.4 miles down the trail at Manzanita Rest Area, a beautiful spot past Roaring Springs. We powered our way down the steep portion, through the wide Bright Angel Canyon, tracing the clear and loud Bright Angel Creek with its occasional waterfalls, hiking through Cottonwood Campground. The prickly pear were so full and healthy; it seemed the creek was flowing much more than we remember from our rim to rim hike 13 years ago. It appears the southwest has had more rainfall in the past few years. We hiked rim to rim 23 years ago and then again 13 years ago and it seems Bright Angel Creek was higher this year. We were happy to see Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon where we re-filled our water and made sure to drink electrolytes. The temperature was 85 degrees. We took 20 minutes in the shade to eat and muster the energy to start the long, warm and steep hike to the south rim. The dark red, brown and grey Vishnu Basement rocks are one of my favorites of this hike, as you enter the core of the Grand Canyon. It forms the rough, contorted, massive base for the prettier rock layers above. It's not often that you get to walk in some of the Earth's oldest rocks; in this case the Vishnu schists, gneiss and granite are 1.7 billion years old. You get to see the rapids of the green Colorado River through the mesh floor of the long suspension bridge as it passes a huge swirling eddy near the shore, delivering you to the Bright Angel Trail and a long, arduous hike out. Water stops along the North Kaibab Trail: distances from North Kaibab Trailhead. Grand Canyon Critical Backcountry Updates
 Walking through the north rim's highest rock strata: the Toroweap's cliff-forming limestone and the red siltstone and sandstone Hermit Formation (below).  North Kaibab Trail switchbacks through Roaring Springs Canyon, crosses it at bridge below, heads around cliffs to drop further down-canyon.  Jeff approaching bridge over Roaring Springs Canyon, constructed in 1966 after a flood. This marks the transition between Supai Formation and the Redwall Limestone rock units.   Fred on north rim  The Manzanita Rest Area, 5.4 miles from North Kaibab Trailhead, has pit toilets, water, shade and a lot of space for hikers to spread out and rest.  Bees love yucca blooms!  Bright Angel Creek - more water in it than our previous GC hikes, but northern Arizona/Southern Utah has had more snowfall in the past two years.  In Bright Angel Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail near Cottonwood Campground.   The "box" after Phantom Creek entrance into the Bright Angel Creek, on the left. Metamorphic Vishnu basement rocks surround.  Suspension bridge spanning the Colorado with the Grand Canyon's crystalline basement rocks surrounding, linking north and south rim trails. Phantom Ranch → Bright Angel Trail Water stops along the Bright Angel Trail
We finally reached Havasupai Gardens, our last water stop (we knew the resthouses above did not have water) with 4.7 more miles to go! Dousing my hat in the cold water from the "community" faucet and letting it drip down my head felt so good! Shortly after eyeing the south rim's steep cliffs above that will be our trail, we resumed and were excited to see Lindy, who had descended 4.5 miles to meet us. Climbing higher, along Garden Creek, legs are tired, yet the terrain gets more challenging. We step over countless old juniper logs and rock bars used to stabilize the trail on forever switchbacks. We are trying to make it in under 11 hours. Dozens of short-distance south rim hikers congest the last half-mile. Don't want to lose momentum. Endure and grow stronger! Lindy spotted an incredible sandstone boulder along the trail that has fossilized tracks in it. They are the oldest vertebrate tracks in the Grand Canyon and the earliest evidence of vertebrate animals walking on sand dunes. They date to 300 million years ago, when Arizona was a coastal plain near the equator. This article in Smithsonian has a great illustration of how this reptile walks laterally, creating the diagonal footprints: Fallen Boulder at Grand Canyon reveals Prehistoric Reptile Footprints.  Fossilized footprints found in Manakacha Formation - 313 million years old. And then the land above the canyon opens up and we arrive at the rim - WE'VE DONE IT!! We walk victoriously to the Bright Angel Trailhead sign where Lindy snaps our photo. Margaritas, beer, and burgers follow. I'm grateful we trained for this epic hike. I'm even more grateful that I am able to do this hike and witness this natural wonder - up close and personal, step after step, one foot in front of the other.
 Suspension bridge over the Colorado River. A short hike on the River Trail to the right takes you to Bright Angel Trail.  In the Grand Canyon's Vishnu crystalline basement rocks: Jeff and Fred heading along the Colorado River to Bright Angel Trail.  This may be a Duffel Service mule train that carries Bright Angel hikers' packs to Phantom Ranch. One company that provides this service is Xanterra.    Looking for shade, waiting to reach Havasupai Gardens, and looking ahead to the rim we get to climb on the Bright Angel.  We've finally met Lindy, who was hiking down from the south rim after driving around from the north rim! Look at those beautiful switchbacks above!    Fred somewhere on the Bright Angel Trail. He doesn't even look tired (I sure was!).  South Rim grandeur.  Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is, you guessed it, 1.5 miles from the south rim. No water here this time.  Sue, Fred and Jeff celebrating on the south rim - 23.5 miles and almost 11 hours since start.  Hike Celebration on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Sue, Fred, Lindy and Jeff. Already planning the next challenge. Standard route for Grand Canyon North Rim to South Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail) Distances/Elevation gain/loss: North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.4 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. Related Posts
All Fired up! As Pat Benatar's song goes, we're "All Fired Up" for next week's Grand Canyon rim to rim hike! Her song is a fitting accompaniment to the goblet squat video below. Fred and I needed elevation training, so we went to Palm Springs, my old stomping grounds, and hiked the Skyline Trail for a gain of 4,700 feet, the same Bright Angel Trail gain on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We encountered too much snow at 8,000 feet in the Pine Valley Mountains just to the north of St. George, preventing a good elevation gain. My last post, Grand Canyon Rim to Rim In One Day: Training in St. George, Utah, explains how we got creative with emulating distance and elevation. We did great on the Skyline; we're now ready for the big hike!
New goal: hike to the tram this October with some of our hiking buddies. Oh, the nostalgia and the beauty of this mountain! I'm grateful that I can still be hiking it 31 years later - let's say that the Advil this time was very helpful! La Verkin Creek Trail to Kolob Arch - Zion NP This long hike features attributes found in Zion National Park's main canyon, including an arch, sandstone cliffs and a river but without the throngs of people. It's in the northern Kolob Canyons section, has a spur trail to impressive Kolob Arch, and also meets up with the Hop Valley Trail, a route to the main Zion Canyon. We hiked 7 miles in to Kolob Arch and back for a total of 14 miles, the same distance as Grand Canyon's North Kaibab Trail. It drops down from the parking lot at Lee Pass Trailhead into the La Verkin Creek drainage. The same mileage as our Skyline Trail hike, but not nearly the same elevation gain. We've got one more training hike on Zion's West Rim Trail this week with Lindy and Jeff, and then we should be good to go for the Grand Canyon. We are lucky to have such inspirational places, some of the most beautiful on Earth, in which to train! Strengthening exercise for powerful hill climbing: Goblet Squats I have found that since I started doing CrossFit and working on strengthening my legs, I have more stability and power for steeper hiking. Goblet squats can be done with a kettlebell as well as two dumbbells, each resting on your shoulders. Strengthens your core (trunk) muscles, glutes and hips. Points to remember:
Forsyth Creek - Pine Valley Mountains in mid-May. It's a late spring here; ran into packed snow on the trail at 8,000 feet. Trees are just starting to bud. photos captured with my new Sony mirrorless camera.  La Verkin Creek in Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park.  At the beginning of La Verkin Creek Trail - Kolob Canyons of Zion National Park.  Jeff and Fred on La Verkin Creek Trail - Zion National Park. This morning was cold starting out - 31 degrees!   Kolob Arch, 7 miles from Lee Pass on the La Verkin Creek Trail. La Verkin is the name of a nearby city between both entrances to Zion National Park. Origins for its name may have come from an alteration of the Spanish word for the nearby Virgin River -- la virgen.  Mile #14 - on the way back to the Lee Pass trailhead! Beautiful Zion hike.  Scott and Fred on the Skyline Trail overlooking Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley, California.  Near the beginning of the Skyline Trail. Prepare before you go far on the Skyline! The steepest part is the "traverse" at the end of the hike. I have seen a person in serious trouble on one of our Cactus to Clouds hikes.  Getting higher - overlooking Palm Springs.  Oh beautiful yucca!  At ~ 4,000-foot elevation on the Skyline looking at the final climb to the Palm Springs Aerial Tram on far ridge.  One of the first views of the San Jacinto Wilderness, where the Skyline Trail that leads to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station terminates on the ridge way up there! We are heading to the ridge on the right.  Chaparral Yucca on the Skyline Trail with the Little San Bernardino Mountain Range across the Coachella Valley in the background.  A good look at what is to come on the Skyline Trail. The tram station is just to the right of the arrow. Coffmans Crag, the white granite just below and to the right of the arrow, is a good landmark to see the final "traverse", a green and steep spot of trees to the left of it in this photo. The Skyline Trail is not one to be taken lightly. People have died on this trail. On one of our Cactus to Clouds hikes, a man caught up to us who had lost his hiking party. He was severely dehydrated - required a helicopter rescue. Left, right from top to bottom: Ribbon Wood tree (Adenostoma sparsifolium), Chaparral yucca, North Lykken trailhead sign, metal sign commemorating Jane Lykken Hoff, "trail boss" of the Desert Riders, contents of Rescue Box 1, Skyline warning sign, Rescue box 1, and boulder sign at the intersection of North Lykken Trail and Skyline Trail.
 Yucca and Ribbonwood trees.  Celebrating long friendships with our hiking buddies in Palm Springs. I have known these friends for over 30 years! We have shared many miles on desert trails and many memories. Love you guys! from left to right: Scott, Vickie, Maria, Sue and Fred. Vickie, Maria and I are in the photo below - 31 years ago!  The First Cactus to Clouds Challenge - October 1993
Summit of Mt. San Jacinto, 10,804'. From left to right: Sue Birnbaum, (don't remember his name), Roger Keezer, Maria Keezer, Ray Wilson, and Vickie Kearney seated in the middle. Getting creative with hikes in Southwestern Utah to prepare for the Grand Canyon. Grand Canyon North Rim to South Rim Hike Facts:
Standard route north to south (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail). Distances/Elevation gain/loss: North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.4 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. Geology: Oldest rocks are Vishnu Schist, an early Paleoproterozoic basement rock (2 billion years ago) at bottom of Grand Canyon. Youngest rock is the Kaibab Limestone on the top of the rim, a cream and white sandy limestone. "By far the most sublime of all earthly spectacles . . . the sublimest thing on Earth." - Clarence Dutton referring to the Grand Canyon. Related Posts
On May 23, we will be walking Grand Canyon from its north rim to its south rim in one day - again. Fred and I first hiked this 23 years ago, to celebrate birthday #40 for both of us. We hiked it on our 50th. We talked about doing it for our 60th, but it wasn't until our friend Robin asked us to go that we got our motivation to train for rim to rim #3. Jeff will do it too, and Lindy will train with us but when it comes to the big day, she has generously offered to drop us off at the north rim and drive all the way around to the south rim to pick us up. Since January, Fred, Jeff, Lindy, Robin and I have been hiking the most challenging trails near St. George, Utah and in Zion National park. Creative planning like linking trails together ensures optimal distance and elevation training. We need to be able to cover 23 miles and a 4,500' gain for rim to rim. Just when your legs are tired from descending 14 miles on North Kaibab Trail, you face the biggest challenge: climbing up Bright Angel Trail for another 9.4 miles. And temperatures on the climb out can be hot, which was the case when we did this hike 23 years ago. We ended up soaking our hats in streams on the way up to cool off. Fred drank 9 liters of water! The next day, we hiked back to the north rim. Some of Our Training Hikes
Strengthening for Hill Climbing - Walking Lunge with Overhead Weight Climbing out of the Grand Canyon requires strong glutes! The most important function of your gluteus medius during hiking is to stabilize your pelvis to keep it level while standing on one leg (stance phase of walking). The stronger they are, the better protection for your knees, and the more efficiently they work, the less energy you waste. Walking lunges challenge your glute and core strength. Holding a weight over your head adds more challenge to your core musculature including abdominals and back extensors, as well as your shoulder girdle stabilizers (rhomboids, trapezius, serratus). Good training for scrambling hikes where you have to use hands to propel up rocks. Action: Hold dumbell or kettlebell overhead with elbow straight, next to your ear. Or, you could hold the weight in a "goblet" position next to your chest. Take a large step forward, that knee should not go ahead of your foot. Opposite knee taps the ground. Squeeze glute on stance leg to raise to lunge with opposite leg. Here's some scenes from three of our training hikes: Snow Canyon from Bottom to Top and Then Some: Berm Trail to Joan's Bones (12 miles RT, ~1600' net gain) Berm Trail → Padre' Canyon Trail → Red Sands Trail → West Rim Trail → Lava Flow Trail → Whiterocks Trail →Joan's Bones → car at Whiterocks Trailhead. Living near Utah's Snow Canyon State Park sure has its advantages. Each time I hike in this Navajo Sandstone paradise, I love it more. We started near where we live, caught the berm trail and walked to the Whiterocks Trail on the north side of the park, then walked east to almost the top of Joan's Bones. This route features gorgeous pools in cross bedded sandstone, soaring orange and red towers, petrified sand dunes, and pristine white sandstone slickrock strewn with black basalt boulders. Joan's Bones hike is on AllTrails (misspelled as "Jones Bones").  Snow Canyon training! Robin, Lindy and Jeff at top of Padre' Canyon. Scenes from Snow Canyon State Park, except upper right photo is from Joan's Bones Trail to the east.  Jeff, Robin and Lindy on the Padre' Canyon Trail.
Fred climbing up cliff band on Red Mountain Trail, backside of Padre' Canyon.  Exploring off the Padre' Canyon Trail.   Moss after a rain near Padre' Canyon.  Hiking up toward Joan's Bones - basalt and sandstone.  Descending Joan's Bones Trail.  Reflection at Whiterocks Amphitheater  Old juniper on Butterfly Trail in Snow Canyon State Park, Utah  Old juniper image shot with my new Sony mirrorless, full frame sensor camera!!  Zion National Park - West Rim Trail to Horse Pasture Plateau (10 miles, 3,000' gain). Right after the shuttle service opened in early March, Lindy, Robin, Jeff and I headed to Zion to get some elevation training in. Starting at the Grotto Trailhead, 4,300' elevation, we hiked up West Rim Trail, past Angels Landing to the entrance into Horse Pasture Plateau at 6,713', at the intersection with Telephone Canyon Trail. After regaining ~ 300' of elevation loss to and from, I calculated our gain to be ~3,000 feet. We hiked on some icy snow. Down in the canyon and at the plateau, temperatures were a bit chilly. Zion was not especially busy with visitors that day. We celebrated afterwards in Springdale with beer and burgers at Porter's restaurant.  A view of Walter's Wiggles, tight switchbacks up through Refrigerator Canyon on the way to Angels Landing. Named after Walter Ruesch, Zion National Park's first superintendent who helped construct the trail in 1926.
 One of the last switchbacks up to intersection of West Rim Trail and Telephone Canyon Trail on Horse Pasture Plateau.  Looking at Zion's West Rim Trail and Angels Landing (orange fin beneath Great White Throne). Aprés hike brew and burgers! More scenes from Zion, and Jeff on Walter's Wiggles on the way to Angels Landing.  Ascending Walter's Wiggles, Refrigerator Canyon to the right. Ivins and Santa Clara, Utah: Suicidal Tendencies Trail and the "Badlands." The "badlands" is my nickname for the landscape west of Land Hill in Ivins, and east of the Beaver Dam Mountains because it reminds me of South Dakota's badlands. A spectacular view of this formidable-looking red and white striped land cracked by crooked canyons and washes and plateaus with well-established biological soils can be savored from the top of Land Hill. We hiked Wittwer Canyon, a major tributary that washes into Santa Clara River. Fred and I put together a 10-mile hike that linked the petroglyph trails on Land Hill to cross the Santa Clara River, to wander through the "badlands" to find a way to link to the Barrel Roll Trail in the Cove Wash Trails. In just one hike, Fred and I saw all the "cool stuff on this trail," (see photos below) and then some. A conglomerate boulder hanging on the steep wall under Land Hill looks like it has embedded dinosaur tracks. I called the local paleontologist; stay tuned!
We're fortunate to have Colorado Plateau hiking to the east of us and Mojave Desert hiking to the west. One day we hiked the 11-mile Suicidal Tendencies, a popular mountain bike trail with scary drop-offs. The more we hike this part of Utah, the more we find to explore. Not only are the views magnificent - black lava flows blend with red and orange cliffs, signs of past cultures and geological events adds a lot character to this part of southern Utah. My next post (rim to rim training, part 2) will highlight another Zion hike and Red Mountain Traverse. Getting Ready for the Big Day! Keep On Exploring!!! Cool Stuff on the Trail One angry rattler, Santa Clara petroglyphs, preserved ripples, beaver dam on the Santa Clara River, dinosaur tracks(?) in Shinarump Conglomerate, a well-developed biological soil crust in the "badlands."  The "badlands" west of Ivins, Utah. Top of Suicidal Tendencies is on the left butte. Fred and I descended down to the cottonwood trees below and crossed the Santa Clara River, found a path through the badlands to the left and looped back using Cove Wash trails.
Jeff climbing a dry waterfall in Wittwer Canyon, finding our way up-canyon.  Wittwer Canyon: upper part is located in the Shivwits Band of Paiutes Land.  Wittwer Canyon - Santa Clara River Reserve on a cold and windy day.  Western cliffs along the Santa Clara River - the rattlesnake is up there!  Fred and I found a shallow crossing on the Santa Clara.  Jeff walking toward top of Suicidal Tendencies Trail (green plateau).  From Suicidal Tendencies Trail looking north across "badlands" to Red Mountain and Ivins, Utah. Snow-covered Pine Valley Mountains on the right horizon. On the top of Suicidal Tendencies - a survey marker that has "Santa Clara" and "1954" stamped onto it.
Unravelling the mysteries of two unique, older petroglyph sites that I found along the Santa Clara River in Utah. 
Abstract petroglyph overlooking the Santa Clara River in the Santa Clara River Reserve.
This design closely resembles an Ancestral Puebloan (formerly Anasazi) petroglyph found in Arizona. Checkerboard designs are associated with Glen Canyon Style 5 made before 1050 A.D. by Ancestral Puebloans including Basketmaker cuture. Related Posts:
Trip Stats Location: Santa Clara River Reserve near Ivins and Santa Clara, Utah - Land Hill. Trailheads: Anasazi Valley Trailhead (north) and Tukupetsi Trailhead (south). Distance: The distance that includes all of the petroglyphs described here is ~ 5+ miles (top of Land Hill and along the Santa Clara River). Some interesting books: A Field Guide to Rock Art Symbols of the Greater Southwest by Alex Patterson. Early Rock Art of the American West: The Geometric Enigma by Ekkehart Malotki and Ellen Dissanayake. The Rock Art of Utah by Polly Schaafsma Links: Santa Clara River Reserve Map Santa Clara/Land Hill is designated as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC). Geology: Petroglyphs are located in the oldest rocks of the Santa Clara Quadrangle Geologic Map: - Shinarump Member Upper Sandstone unit and Shinarump Conglomerate Member of the Chinle Formation: Upper Triassic (~ 200 million years ago). Petroglyphs in sandstone and dinosaur tracks in conglomerate. -Cliffs below Land Hill along the Santa Clara River: Upper Red Member of the Moenkopi Formation: Lower Triassic (~ 250 million years ago). The fascinating rock art on the Tempi'po'op Trail (Anasazi Valley Trail) in Ivins, Utah, made by the Virgin Ancestral Puebloan and Southern Paiute cultures thousands of years ago can be discovered for more than two miles along the cliffs of Land Hill, overlooking the Santa Clara River. Additionally, many more petroglyphs are pecked into huge boulders and sheer walls beneath Land Hill, next to the river. Each time I explore this part of the Santa Clara River Reserve, I find new petroglyphs. On a recent wander, I discovered two intriguing petroglyph sites that I had previously passed by.
Five bighorn sheep on the right side of the boulder along with two large columns made with parallel vertical lines bisected incrementally with horizontal lines are pecked next to the older-appearing, lichen-filled and more highly eroded geometric glyphs. Who made these abstract/geometric petroglyphs and what do they "mean"? Various theories include shamanistic visions, recording of phosphenes, and communication of vital information like water sources. The Paiute word for them, Tumpituxwinap, translates roughly as "storied rocks."
Huge boulder on flat area near Santa Clara River predominated by abstract/geometric petroglyphs, possibly of the Great Basin Curvilinear and Rectilinear style.  The right side of the boulder; these deer and sheep petroglyphs seem to be younger than those on the left side because they are not as eroded. The plant-like image (upper left) looks like a corn tassle to me.  Petroglyph on top of boulder (left). It reminds me of a necklace: it's similar to those that are pecked into a boulder nearby. It looks like a chain of circles, which might indicate the Great Basin Curvilinear style. In Search of the Rattlesnake Petroglyph.  Back of boulder with what I could find as the easiest route to the top.
Phosphenes are lately being proposed by scientists as the catalyst for the creation of abstract designs. All humans experience phosphenes that occur during hyperventilation, migraine headaches, meditation, use of hallucinatory drugs, fatigue and hunger and pressure put on a closed eye. The idea is that geometric petroglyphs and pictographs depict an innate visual grammar (Engel in Fein, 1993) that we all share, ingrained in the biology of our brains. My earlier post Corn Springs Petroglyphs: Vision Quests, Steamboats, and Ringing Rocks explains a few theories for the creation of the Western Archaic Tradition rock art. The Santa Clara Boulder and the "Abstract Enigma" I found two photos of petroglyphs very similar to that of the spoked circle design on the large boulder by the river. One illustrates the Western Virgin Kayenta style and the other illustrates Great Basin Carved Abstract petroglyphs. This spoked circle seems less prevalent than the spiral petroglyphs that appear frequently on the cliffs above the river. Great Basin Abstract tradition rock art spans the Archaic and the Late Prehistoric (8,000-150 years ago). The Great Basin Carved Abstract style occurs in St. George, Utah area. It's characterized by purely geometric petroglyphs that fill boulders so that little unmarked space is left. Art includes various circle configurations, grooves, grids, lattices, herringbone shapes, ladder-like shapes, chevron, hatchmarks and dots. This boulder along the Santa Clara River contains some of these elements. Since this style is found not only in Nevada's Great Basin, but throughout the American West, some scientists call it "Carved Abstract". The rows of vertical lines cut with horizontal lines, surrounded by a line are similar to "gridiron" petroglyphs seen in New Mexico. The parallel wavy lines above the spoked circle are considered Great Basin Curvilinear, which I read is another way to say Great Basin Carved Abstract. The grids and cross-hatchings, and perpendicular form is known as "rectilinear." These styles are associated with the Archaic style and also occur in styles associated with Puebloan and Fremont groups. Two authors state that the Great Basin Abstract petroglyphs appear to be made as a part of "magic hunting ritual and were related to subsistence practices..." (Heizer and Baumhoff). Abstract designs predominate this style, with a limited depiction of animals. The most common animal portrayed is the bighorn sheep. I also noticed what appeared to be cupules (pit and groove style) on the back side of the boulder. Or are these holes just natural weathering? Or both? One pit placed on the side of the boulder looks too symmetrical to be made by weathering. Theories for their creation include fertility enhancement and the use of powder produced from making them.  Cupules or natural weathering? Cupules are associated with very early Carved Abstract Style. It's assumed that cupule sites identify places of significance.  Anthropomorphic (Human-like) petroglyph on a flat boulder near the Een'oog Trail and the cliffs overlooking the Santa Clara River. Size is ~ 14 inches tall. Is a Snake Biting the Figure with the Drooping Hands? The second amazing petroglyph I found is on top of Land Hill along the Een'oog Trail, on the cliffs above the Santa Clara River. It's totally repatinated, blends into the rock, so it's easily missed (see above). Its drooping arms, termed "pendant" by scientists, round head, hair bobs, long rectangular or slightly trapezoidal (wider at the shoulders), and feet and hands pointing down match the description I found of the Anasazi Basketmaker culture - 500 BC - 800 AD. The term "Anasazi" has now been replaced by "Ancestral Puebloan." A serpentine-like line winds its way from the left side of the figure to the figure's leg. These “representational” styles are typically associated with Fremont and Western Puebloan cultures (ca. 2,000-750 years ago) in southeastern Nevada, Utah, and the Colorado Plateau. These semi-horticultural groups made rock art that featured human-like forms portrayed by trapezoidal, rectangular, or triangular body shapes. These were often portrayed with bodily decoration such as headgear, jewelry, or decorated clothing. In my research, I found the Classic Vernal-Style (a sub-set of Fremont Style) Anthropomorph has large heads and trapezoidal torsos with well-defined extremities. The Fremont style tends to have round earbobs and arms and hands held down, commonly with splayed fingers. In western Utah, there is an intermix of Great Basin Curvilinear and Fremont styles. Ancestral Puebloan farmers lived in the Land Hill area in permanent settlements ~ 1,000 years ago. The Santa Clara River gave them a good water supply to irrigate their crops. During A.D. 700 - 1100, population on Land Hill thrived, but then around 1200 A.D., population decreased possibly due to changing climatic conditions. I found an old corn cob in a grassy area beneath the cliffs next to the river (see photo below). Every kernel had been removed. It couldn't have survived hundreds of years! Or could it have been exhumed after the record-setting rains of 2022-2023 that caused a major landslide at an area close to it? A Land Rich in Culture, Stories, and Mystery Dinosaur tracks have been documented on Land Hill. At first glance, you wouldn't imagine that the Santa Clara River Reserve holds so many stories among its cliffs, plateaus, and rock art. If you look closely, you will see abstract and representational communication made by different cultures during different times. In my quest to figure out who made these fascinating petroglyphs and why, I realize that if anything, they still remain an enigma. I'll let you know if I find the dinosaur tracks and more corn cobs! Keep Exploring!  When I went to look at the figure with the round head and the ear bobs again (lower right), I shared the petroglyph rock with a goose.  Petroglyphs (walls on right) overlooking the Santa Clara River.  Land Hill on the right and a path that runs along the Santa Clara River. Beaver Dam Mountains in the distance. Petroglyphs are found on the flat surface rocks, in the steep cliffs of Land Hill, and on boulders along the river.  Finding a route down from the top of Land Hill with my friend Laura. We are headed to the Santa Clara River below. Notice the Shinarump conglomerate rock in the right foreground.  When we got near the river, we found this boulder with what looks like Great Basin Curvilinear style and a family of anthropomorphs (human-like) figures.   Petroglyphs on the Anasazi Valley Trail in Ivins, Utah. The Glen Canyon Style 5 (Ethnic groups are Early Puebloan and Basketmaker). Bighorn sheep have large rectangular bodies disproportionately large compared to their small heads, tail and legs.
Laura and some really cool sandstone boulders along the Santa Clara River. Some Cool Stuff on the Trail Clockwise from upper left: slickensides created from scraping against other rocks in a fault, bivalve fossil near the Een'oog Trail, a corn cob, a desert-varnished panel on an eroded sandstone boulder.  Sandstone boulder detail. References Bureau of Land Management. Land Hill Heritage Site. Malotki, Ekkehart. The Rock Art of Arizona: Art for LIfe's Sake. From website: Bradshaw Foundation. Mangum, M.E. 2018. Lithics and Mobility at Land Hill and Hidden Hills: A Study of the Stone Tools and Debitage at Sites in the Santa Clara River Basin and on the Shivwits Plateau. Brigham Young University ProQuest Dissertations Publishing, 2018. 28107515. National Park Service. Reading Rock Markings. Schaafsma, P. 1971. The Rock Art of Utah. Scotter, T. Bowen , N. 2017. The Rock Art of Utah. The Nevada Rock Art Foundation - Styles and Themes Willis, J.C., Hayden, J.M. 2015. Geologic Map of the Santa Clara Quadrangle, Washington County, Utah. A New Year's Day 2024 journey through pinyon-juniper woodland on top of Red Mountain near St. George, Utah to a spectacular Snow Canyon overlook.  Looking north over Snow Canyon State Park from "On Top of the World" on Red Mountain. Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon.  View of Red Sands Trail (right) in Snow Canyon SP from a previous hike - Red Mountain Primitive Trail. Trip Stats - Ivins Trailhead
Overview/Location: This quiet, cross-country excursion through the gorgeous Red Mountain juniper woodland biome brings you to an expansive view of southern Utah's Snow Canyon State Park. A remote island of solitude in the Red Mountain Wilderness elevated above the cities of Ivins and St. George. Distance/Elevation gain: 5 miles out and back/1,575'. Coordinates/Elevation: Red Mountain Trailhead = 37.17519, -113.67755 (3,190'). Southern Red Mountain Primitive Trail out of Ivins. Top-off at 0.8 miles = 37.18375, -113.67849 (4,556'). Snow Canyon Overlook (On Top of the World) = 37.20116, -113.66671 (4,765'). Maps/Apps: Topo Maps U.S. app, Garmin GPS, BLM Utah Red Mountain Wilderness (Avenza app). Maps at end of this post. Difficulty/Trail: strenuous Class 1-3 climb up Red Mountain (mild exposure) for the first 0.8 mile, moderate cross-country Class 2 over slick rock and deep sand. Date Hiked: 1/1/2024. Geology: Red Mountain's lower slopes are the Kayenta Formation, the oldest rock in Snow Canyon State Park (190 million years). The horizontal sediment layers are made from rivers depositing mudstone, siltstone and sandstone. The upper slopes, cliffs and top of Red Mountain are a great block of Navajo Sandstone that is younger (180 million years), also seen as a major rock unit of Zion National Park. This Navajo Sandstone exhibits large, sweeping cross-bed features - horizontal and dipping layers of ancient sand dunes deposited in a vast eolian (wind carried) dune field. Red Mountain is bounded by the Gunlock Fault on its west side. It merges with an extensive field of 2.4 million - 2,000 year old basalt flows to the northeast. The Gunlock Fault is a normal fault with the down-drop on its west side (See references below). Considerations: The first mile from the Ivins trailhead is Class 1-2 with two short Class 3 maneuvers. Once the trail tops out, there is no marked trail. Experience with navigation and route-finding using a compass/GPS and topo maps is advised after top of Red Mountain is reached to avoid getting lost. A sign at this trailhead reads, "Hazardous, unmaintained route with steep exposed slopes: your safety is your responsibility." Recommend taking a GPS waypoint at critical points on the trail such as point where you enter the plateau from the cliffs. Search and rescue operations for lost hikers have occurred. Be prepared if you have to spend the night! Research this route thoroughly! 2/5/23: Three rescues in Washington County on the same Day (St. George News). Related Posts Our New Year's Day Hike Fred and I have a tradition of hiking on New Years Day. For 2024, we took friends to the top of Red Mountain and across its beautiful plateau to a high point dubbed "On Top of the World" by our friend Dan. From here, you stand 1,400 feet over an outstanding view of Snow Canyon's petrified yellow sand dunes and orange ridges, black basalt flows from northern volcanoes near Veyo. It's worth the orange sand trudge on the top to get there. This short, five-mile hike packs in a good variety of terrain. The first mile climbs steeply through a cliff band requiring some fun Class 3 (un-roped using hands to climb) maneuvers, gaining 1,300 feet. The next 1.5 miles initially descends through a beautiful juniper woodland bowl where Gunsight Pass can be reached to the southeast. You will trek through sand, washes, over slick rock then climb to a sandy saddle where our "On Top of the World" high point can finally be seen. Then it's a matter of making a ~0.5-mile beeline to it across relatively level terrain, traversing minor washes, dodging cacti and prickly shrubs. When you top-off onto Red Mountain's plateau, you initially follow the north/south Red Mountain Primitive Trail for ~1.2 miles, then a short jaunt off of it to the northeast to reach On Top of the World, elevation 4,765'. Red Mountain Primitive Trail's northern trailhead is located just north of Diamond Cinder Cone on Utah Highway 18. It's a fun little scramble to the cairned top, using your hands a few times to climb easy rocks, overlooking Padre Canyon and Tuacahn Center for the Arts to the southeast. Once you summit, the rugged terrain drops steeply below with a breathtaking view of Snow Canyon, with a few smooth slick rock benches above it that look interesting to explore or camp in. Can't think of a better way to celebrate the New Year: friends and the reward of finding our own way to a seldom-visited summit in one of the most beautiful places in the southwest. Great "medicine" for the soul, body and mind. Explore More in 2024!!  Southern Red Mountain trailhead in Ivins. The trail starts out steep!  Google Earth view of our GPS tracks beginning at the Red Mountain Primitive Trail's southern trailhead in Ivins (lower left), going through the cliff-band about halfway up, getting onto Red Mountain, and traversing across plateau to "On Top of the World" overlooking Snow Canyon, Padre Canyon, and Tuacahn Center for the Arts. See more maps at the end of this post.
 Utah yucca and pinyon pines, shrub live oak (Quercus turbinella) on Red Mountain's plateau. The name turbinella, meaning "like a little top", refers to the acorn, this plant's fruit which appears in summer. The reference to "turbinella" in the photo above prompted me to add these photos of the shrub live oak acorns. They're so cute!  Life and death on the Colorado Plateau: beauty and grace in a dead juniper.  On top of Red Mountain: lots of sand and shrubs to negotiate.  The first view of "On Top of the World" highpoint (red cone to the right). Snow-covered Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon. This photo was taken last winter when we had record snowfalls in southwestern Utah.  We have just walked across the pinyon/juniper scrub land behind Fred and Jeff and are starting up the ridge to our summit. Beaver Dam Mountains on the horizon to the west.  "On Top of the World!"   A cairn marking our summit and a view of Tuacahn Center for the Arts lower left. View is looking south at Ivins and St. George, Utah and toward Arizona on the horizon.  Jeff and Lindy - Happy New Years!  Dan (who named this summit "On Top of the World") in a photo from last winter.  The road in the valley is the drive through Snow Canyon State Park. Note the black shrub-covered basalt flows mid/upper in photo, covering the Navajo Sandstone.  Heading back. As soon as you get over the saddle in the foreground, you drop into sand dunes and washes, then a brief climb up a sandstone ridge to find your entry point onto the plateau. Navigation experience on unmarked terrain is essential so you don't get lost. I recommend taking a GPS point when you finish the 0.8 mile climb from the trailhead to the plateau entry.   Heading down off the plateau of Red Mountain on Red Mountain Trail. Overlooking the city of Ivins.  City of Ivins below.  Descending through Class 2+/3 cliff band. Below us is the trail on top of the ridge.   Caltopo Map of our GPS tracks.  Caltopo map illustrating our hikes on the Red Mountain Primitive Trail. Red tracks = "On Top of the World" hike. Blue tracks = our hike on 2/4/23. Dashed line = continuation of Red Mountain Primitive Trail past Snow Benchmark, to intersection with Snow Canyon Overlook, then ending at its upper trailhead. References
Bugden, M. Geology of Snow Canyon State Park Cryptobiotic Soils: Jayne Belnap. Holding the Place in Place - USGS: Impacts of Climate Change on Life and Ecosystems. Red Mountain Wilderness Maps - Wilderness Connect Ecoregions of Utah - usgs.gov Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Biek, R.F., and others. USGS publications. Miller, R. Our Geological Wonderland: Snow Canyon State Park |
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Sue and Fred
About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.
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