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Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Training 2025:  Utah Hikes and Hip Strengthening Exercises

4/13/2025

2 Comments

 
Recommendations to prepare for one of Earth's greatest hikes.
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On the West Rim Trail in Zion National Park.
Quotes: 
"Nowhere else is the simple act of putting one foot in front of the other so provocative, so destabilizing, so densely freighted with rich and interlocking layers of meaning.”
   -  Kevin Fedarko, from his book A Walk in the Park:  The True Story of a Spectacular Misadventure in the Grand Canyon.


"They (people) love to complain about how soft people are today. Then I look at their profile photo and realize the last time this person did a push-up was probably when Commando was in theaters. If you think people are soft, start by not being soft yourself. You have the power to do something hard and train every day."
    -  Arnold Schwarzenegger 
To hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day requires mindful and effective training.  It can make the difference between a positive, enjoyable experience and one that is a once-only, miserable experience.

​This will be our fifth Grand Canyon rim to rim hike.  In 2024, we hiked north to south with our friend Jeff (Epic Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Hike In One Day).  This year we will hike south to north, with an increase of at least 1,000 feet elevation gain compared to last year, over a shorter distance.


These are our recommendations for an enjoyable and safe rim to rim hike in this incredible canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, based on our experiences:
  • Be able to hike at least 15 miles continuously
  • Be able to hike 4,000 feet in elevation
  • Be able to tolerate hiking in heat, as Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon will be a lot warmer (one year it was 100 degrees for us but we had a lot of Palm Springs, California hiking experience).
  • We use just one - two bottles of electrolyte drinks mixed in with water (our friend thought that one had to drink electrolytes continuously on this hike, so he felt adverse effects of electrolyte overload).  I'm not an expert on this, please check with your physician.
Our training hikes in the St. George/Southern Utah area and Palm Springs, California:
  • Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day training near St. George, Utah.
  • Kolob Arch, Skyline Trail and Goblet Squats
  • Scrub Benchmark in the Beaver Dam Mountains.
  • Burger Peak in Pine Valley Mountains 
  • Skyline Trail in Palm Springs gains 8,000 feet on the longest portion of the Cactus to Clouds hike.

The hip strengthening exercises below create stability and endurance necessary for long distance hiking, scrambling, and climbing.

I also threw in some of this year's photos.  Fred and I, in our mid-60's are so grateful to be able to do these hikes, especially with our friends.  Many people are unable to experience the awesome grandeur of the changing colors and terrain descending and climbing back out of the canyon.  To be able to cross the green and blue Colorado River, see 1.7 billion-year old basement rocks and walk along Bright Angel Creek's rushing white water is something we'll never forget.
Hip Strengthening for Better Hiking and Injury Prevention - Sue Birnbaum, MPT
These are some of the exercises I do to create strength and endurance in my hip stabilizers:  the gluteus medius, gluteus maximus, piriformis, and deep core muscles.
Strengthening your gluteus medius is crucial for a stable pelvis during walking and hiking.  The integration of the gluteus medius (upper lateral buttock) with the TFL (tensor fascia lata) and the quadratus lumborum creates an important myofascial sling.  This sling helps to stabilize the pelvis, which is essential for efficient movement and preventing compensations in other areas, such as the lower back or knees.​   Its function is to prevent the pelvis from dropping on the unsupported side (the leg that is swinging through during gait), which is a key part of maintaining a balanced gait.

Strong gluteus medius muscles control hip movement which in turn controls knee movement.  They prevent knee injuries during activities because they keep knees in the optimal anatomic position during weight-bearing.
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Gluteus medius muscles in red:  it abducts your hips and stabilizes your pelvis. 
​By maya2008.
Your gluteus maximus (largest butt muscle) is described by a physical therapist as "a steering wheel and stabilizer for your legs." (from the book ROAR; see reference below).  Your glutes kick into action first to keep your pelvis stabilized and then direct your knee and quadricep movements.  Up the chain, your abdominal muscles, back muscles, and obliques help you keep moving in a solid, stabilized unit (optimally, if they're strong!).

** It's important to recruit your deep core muscles by getting into the habit of automatically contracting or "zipping up" your abdomen, pulling your navel toward your spine before you start moving with these exercises.**
Check with your physician before performing these exercises.


There's thousands of foot steps on the 22-mile GC rim to rim trail.  Strong hip stabilizers will help prevent hip pain!
Side Steps onto Box and Side Step-Overs
Keep your pelvis level throughout the step up, prevent your knee from bending (caving in) toward midline, keeping your knee tracking over your foot.  Box step-overs train your ankles, knees, hips, core and dynamic balance functionally for scrambling over rocks.
Reverse Lunges with Dumbbells
The further away from your spine you hold a given load, the more spinal loading (torque) occurs, the stronger your trunk muscles - including core muscles - have to be to keep your spine stable and strong.
I contract my scapular stabilizers to keep the shoulders down away from my ears, keeping my chest elevated.  Keeping an erect posture gets those spinal muscles to work!
​Knee should not go in front of your toes as you lower down.
Banded Squats with Dumbbells into Thrusters
I am trying to prevent my knees from moving toward each other - overcoming the force of the band squeezing inward by contracting my gluteus medius to abduct my hips, keeping knees tracking over ankles.
Keeping your arms extended forward creates a big challenge for your back and abs.
Thrusters are an explosive movement by the glutes to push dumbbells up, requiring scapular/shoulder control and core stability.
Bridging with band-resisted leg movements
If my hips start to get sore, I do this basic physical therapy exercise.
The key is to push outward against the band, keep your hips up and not to let your pelvis dip down to the side.
​Think of it as a reverse plank - I could do a little better keeping my hips up in line with shoulders and knees.
Zion National Park with Lindy and Jeff.  We hit slippery snow so we couldn't get as much elevation as we wanted!
Clockwise from top left:  Walking up West Rim Trail to Scouts Lookout, Lindy's "little men", Fred on plateau after Scouts Lookout, Sue  and Fred, heading back, Walter's Wiggles looking over Refrigerator Canyon on the way up to Scout Lookout.
Training in St. George area
Clockwise from top left:  Robin on ridge to Peak 4416 - Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, Sue and Robin on Padre Canyon Trail, Jeff near Three Ponds Trail in Snow Canyon SP, Robin looking at Peak 4416, celebrating Scrub Benchmark's summit, lost on the Whiptail Trail, Snow Canyon, Walter's Wiggles - Zion, Fred on the ridge to 4416, petroglyphs on Land Hill near Ivins, Fred coming up canyon in Snow Canyon, the "Vortex", cholla in Snow Canyon.
Related
Cactus to Clouds Challenge - 1993
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim 2024
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Training I
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Training II
References

Sims, S.T.  2016.  ROAR:  How to Match Your Food and Fitness to Your Female Physiology for Optimum Performance, Great Health, and a Strong, Lean Body For Life.  Rodale Books.  RodaleWellness.com
2 Comments

Hike Scrub Benchmark: 6,790' - Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area

4/3/2025

2 Comments

 
See spectacular views of three states:  extreme southwestern Utah, Arizona's Virgin River Gorge and Nevada's Virgin Peak from the summit of one of the highest points in the Beaver Dam Mountains.
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On Scrub Benchmark's summit:  the view to the north of West Mountain in the Beaver Dam Mountains (left), and the Pine Valley Mountains on the right horizon to the northeast.
Location:  Beaver Dam Mountains - Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area, managed by Bureau of Land Management, west of Ivins, Utah.
Distance/elevation gain:  7 miles out and back/2,550' gain.
Terrain:  steep gravel service road to summit with loose rocks.
Coordinates:  37.053315, -113.817280
​Prominence:  2,065'
Date Hiked:  March 28, 2025.
Trailhead:  Coordinates:  37.015882, -113.817280.  Accessed from Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway (Bulldog Pass/Apex Road).
Maps and Apps:  AllTrails, Stavislost,  Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area Map.
Vehicle:  4 WD best on gravel road to trailhead.  
Geology:  Callville Limestone of the Pennsylvanian Period (~300 Ma).  This sedimentary rock was laid down in a time of swampy forests and shallow seas that advanced and retreated over millions of years.  The Beaver Dam Mountains are a northwest-trending anticline (an arch-shaped fold in rocks) located in between two major provinces:  the Basin and Range  and the Colorado Plateau.
History:  the Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway follows the Old Spanish Trail - a trade route that extends from California, Utah, New Mexico, Nevada, Arizona and Colorado.
​
Quote
"The finest quality of this stone, these plants and animals, this desert landscape is the indifference manifest to our presence, our absence, our coming, our staying, or our going."

         -  Edward Abbey, in Desert Solitaire, reflecting on his last day as an Arches National Monument park ranger in the 1960's.
Related
Jarvis Peak
Utah's Red Rock Country
Virgin Peak - Mojave Solitude
Davidson Peak
​
​Because this hike has one of the most elevation gains in the St. George, Utah area, Robin, Jeff, Lindy and I tackled it to train for our upcoming Grand Canyon south rim to north rim hike on May 21.  The magnificent views on the summit of this highest point in the Beaver Dam Mountains near the Arizona border more than made up for the straight-up steep gravel road with its annoying loose rocks and heart-pounding pitch.


There's an advantage to living in St. George if you love geology:  if you go west, you can explore Basin and Range territory.  If you go east, you get to explore the Colorado Plateau province.  Since I am inclined to want to hike in the Red Rock Country of the Colorado Plateau, I thought we would try something different and venture into the limestones of the Beaver Dam Mountains, which straddle these two provinces.

This hike is about as straightforward as a hike can be.  In our 4 WD, we turned onto Bulldog Pass/Apex Road (AKA Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway) from Old Highway 91 out of Ivins, Utah.  We parked at the unmarked road that goes to the peak (see coordinates above) in a wide flat area.  Driving back afterwards, we continued southwest on this road until we reached its southern entrance onto Highway 91, passing Tabeau Peak and driving through Bulldog Canyon, with the Bulldog Knolls rising overhead to the north.

​The hike passes by interesting limestone ledges and a few caves.  It starts out on a pleasant incline, but then becomes really steep as you enter an old burned area close to the communication-towered peak.  There's nothing to block the incredible 360-degree view of three states.  Seeing the Virgin River Gorge below, in northern Arizona from the top was spectacular, as I usually see it when I'm IN the gorge, driving on Interstate 15.  To the south rises snow-covered Virgin Peak above Mesquite, Nevada.
Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area
​
There's no developed recreation facilities or camping spots in the Beaver Dam Mountains.  It is a place of solitude, with not a lot of visitors.   Scrub Benchmark lies on the eastern border of Beaver Dam Wash NCA, the southwestern portion of the Beaver Dam Mountains in Utah (click link above for map).

Geologists have long debated Beaver Dam's  complicated structure.  Unusual folds, faults and shattered rocks, ancient landslides dominate this transition zone between the Colorado Plateau and the Great Basin.
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Beaver Dam Mountains rise at the transition between the Mojave Desert and Great Basin provinces.  The Joshua tree is an indicator species of the Mojave Desert.
Grateful for my Hiking Buddies
This was a pretty good training hike for the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, since you can get a decent gain (>2,500') without snow in early spring.   I'm lucky to hike with Robin, Jeff and Lindy.  They're really fun and make hiking an even more positive experience!  

Next time I do this hike, I want to include Tahoari Peak.  From Scrub Benchmark, you would follow its west ridge and then drop down south to hike Tahoari's north ridge, like Stav Basis did (stavislost).

Keep On Exploring!!
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The diagonal gravel road going through Bulldog Pass is the Bulldog Pass/Apex Rd, AKA Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway.  We hiked to Scrub Benchmark on its southeast service road (in yellow).  Topo Maps US.
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Starting on road leading to Scrub Benchmark.
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Limestone ledges.
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Looking on the left side of the road while ascending.
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Road begins to narrow and steepen.
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Jeff on steep and loose section.
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Robin and Lindy.
Tahoari Peak is the third "bump" from the right on the ridge above.

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It's a steep one!
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Last steep section to the summit of Scrub Benchmark!
Cool Stuff on Scrub Benchmark's summit:  peak register, Jeff, Sue and Lindy, Lindy's "little men" posing next to the benchmark survey disc, communication towers.
Note:  this survey benchmark has an arrow on it.  Usually these arrows point to a disc with a triangle on it, called the "triangulation station", or the main survey point.  A triangulation station usually has 2 or 3 reference markers surrounding it.  This particular disc says "No. 2".  I measured the direction of the arrow pointing to 150 degrees.
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Lindy, Jeff and Robin - trois randonneurs exceptionnels!
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Looking south from near the summit into  Arizona and the Virgin River Gorge (left), and Mt. Bangs and Virgin Peak in Nevada (right horizon).
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Scrub Benchmark survey disc looks over the service road at the top.
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The rest of the crew descending the slippery road.   I am the slow one going down.  Another look at Tahoari Peak, highest on the ridge in this photo.
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Almost to the car - just around the corner!
References
​Biek, R.F.   2009.  Ancient Landslides of the Beaver Dam Mountains, Washington County, Utah.  Utah Geological Survey.
2 Comments

On a Mission with Mish:  Photography Adventures

3/4/2025

4 Comments

 
 Capturing beautiful images in southern Utah and Great Basin National Park with friend and photographer Mike Shedlock.
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Mike Shedlock (Mish) photographing in Pine Creek, Zion National Park.
Related
MishMoments - Joy of Photography

Angels Landing - Zion
Southern Utah Hikes
The Subway - Zion
Great Basin NP
Quote
"Ancora imparo."  (translates to "I'm still learning").
         - Michelangelo

One day a photographer who read my Golden Cathedral via Beeline Trail hike post contacted me through Explorumentary.  Mike Shedlock, AKA Mish, wanted to know if Fred and I would join him on another trip to this awesome sky-lit cathedral at the end of Neon Canyon in April, just in time for the spring leafing of the cottonwood trees.

Since then, we have gone on several photo adventures in southern Utah, including Water Canyon in Canaan Mountain Wilderness, Zion National Park, and a few petroglyph sites.  On our second trip to Stella Lake in Great Basin National Park, we caught the perfect dusk sky, arriving just in time after hurrying up the trail from the famous thousands-years-old bristlecone pines.
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​You've got to be on your toes when photographing with Mish.  He sets up fast, knows his camera really well, and has a schedule - especially if we are to get to a place in time for the perfect light.  He is a combined artist and superlative technician.

Getting out with Mish has been good for me and Fred, who patiently waits and takes in the beautiful scenery while Mish and I create.  It's motivated me to get out with my Sony DSLR camera more often and learn how to use it.  I was a Canon girl before.

We are talking about a trip to Cosmic Ashtray in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument this spring.

Check out MishMoments - Joy of Photography for some spectacular images of southern Utah, Iceland, night skies, "everything water" and more.  Here are a few images I have gotten so far, some with Mish's help.
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Fred squeezing through the "secret passage" to the waterfall and pool along Zion's Pine Creek (image below).
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Pine Creek in Zion National Park.
The walk into this steep-walled canyon is through white sands and huge boulders.
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A second trip to Pine Creek.
Temperatures in Zion NP dip into the 20's at night in December.

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Autumn in Zion National Park.
Mish knows the best places to photograph.

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We had to climb a short, slippery, ice-filled slope to get closer to these icicles in Pine Creek.
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Water Canyon in Canaan Mountain Wilderness, south of Zion National Park.
There's no trail markers in this gorgeous wilderness that is known well by "locals."

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This woman in the blue dress scrambled up these slippery falls like she's done it many times before.
Photographed at 0.5 seconds making woman out of focus, ISO = 250, f 16

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Golden Cathedral at the end of Neon Canyon.
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Reflections of Wheeler Peak (right) and Doso Doyabi (left) in Stella Lake - Great Basin National Park.
Wheeler Peak's summit is 13,065' - the second-tallest in Nevada.  There's a great trail to its summit.
Nevada's only glacier lies at the base of Wheeler Peak.

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We found big and beautiful Joshua trees in the Beaver Dam Mountains near Ivins, Utah.
Nevada's Mormon Mountain range is in the background.
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Mish and Sue at the Rattlesnake petroglyph.
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Metate Arch in Devils Garden - Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument - Utah.
Grand Staircase is my favorite place to explore because it has few paved roads.  Most adventures require a rugged vehicle, lots of patience and navigation ability, and a lot of wanderlust.
I added "sky replacement" in Photoshop.

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Ancient Bristlecone Pine grove in Great Basin National Park's quartzite.
These thousands-years old trees are fascinating and tough, withstanding freezing temperatures and ferocious winds that twist them into almost human gestures.
They are the largest non-clonal species on the planet, and extremely rare.
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Doso Doyabi (Shoshone language for "white peak") and its reflection in Stella Lake.
This peak was formerly named Jeff Davis Peak.  
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Someday (soon?)
Mojave Desert near Nipton, California in the Ivanpah Valley.
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Virgin River Gorge petroglyphs.
This huge boulder is near the da Vinci panel petroglyphs.
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Blooming yuccas on the Skyline Trail in the San Jacinto Mountains above Palm Springs, California.
I included this shot with my iPhone because it's one of my favorites.
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Hike White Rock Peak and Peak 5024 - Snow Canyon State Park

1/5/2025

4 Comments

 
Hike two of the highest summits on Snow Canyon's east rim for views seen by few.
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Lindy near White Rock Peak's summit with the east fork of Snow Canyon below.
Red Mountain Wilderness across, on the west rim with its highest point, Snow Benchmark, the brown dome mostly covered by the tree.
Trip Stats
Location: 
Red Cliffs National Conservation Area and Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah.
Distance/Elevation gain:  4.2 miles out and back/1,150' cumulative gain.  White Rock Peak = 4,870',  Peak 5024'
Maps/Apps:  Topo Maps US, USGS Santa Clara Quad 7.5 min topo map
Date Hiked:  11/30/2024
Trailhead:  White Rocks Trail off of Hwy 18 north of St. George.
Considerations:  Experience in navigation using topo maps required as this route is not marked.
Coordinates:  White Rock Peak = 37.23908 , -113.64775.  Peak 5024 = 37.24431, -113.64886

Geology:  Navajo Sandstone, Lower Jurassic, ~180 million years ago.
Native peoples:  Virgin River Anasazi until ~ 1,200 AD, folowed by Shivwits Paiutes.  There is a petroglyph panel nearby.
Quote:   "There are some good things to be said about walking.  Not many, but some." 
                    -  Edward Abbey
Biological Soil Crusts Rule!
Related Posts
Snow Benchmark
Red Mountain Primitive Trail
Snow Canyon Overlook
A Cold Desert
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The view west from White Rock Peak
The West Canyon Road snakes through petrified sand dunes and cliffs of Snow Canyon State Park, below.

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Our GPX tracks starting from White Rocks Trail following canyon to White Rock Peak (bottom spur) and north to Peak 5024.
These peaks rise above the east fork of Snow Canyon (left), with views of basalt flows and cinder cones to the east.
North points up.
One of the outstanding aspects of this hike is the magnificent views of the entire geography of Snow Canyon State Park that only a few get to see.  We stand on top of its rim, while the burgeoning  number of Snow Canyon visitors hike popular trails in the bottom such as Petrified Sand Dunes and Lava Flow.
​
​Now we've hiked the highest peaks on Snow Canyon's west and east rims.  On the west rim, our Snow Benchmark hike reached the highest point in the beautiful Red Mountain Wilderness.  On the east rim, we summited the highest peak in Snow Canyon Sate Park - Peak 5024 - along with White Rock Peak with an awesome view of the deep chasms and sheer cliffs of Snow Canyon to the west and the black cinder cones and basalt flows near the town of Veyo to the east.

The gorgeous north/south Red Mountain Primitive Trail is the only rim trail in Snow Canyon State Park noted on maps. 

We took our friends Lindy, Jeff and Robin to White Rock's summit and Peak 5024 after we had found our way to them previously.   We accessed the east rim via a pretty canyon via the sandy wash that borders Highway 18, at Winter Quarters, shown on a  topo map.   

We found an animal trail leading up from the mouth of this steep-sided canyon to the right (north).  At first, the head of this canyon looks to be blocked by a headwall, but we found a steep exit trail obviously made by hikers to avoid Class 3 or 4 obstacles.  It brought us to the base of White Rock Peak where we scrambled up its north side. 

Our ascent canyon is unnamed as far as I know.  It took a bit of navigating/maneuvering on rocky moderately steep slopes, avoiding the bouldery bed of the creek most of the way.  I left a "duck" (rock trail marker using small amount of rocks, usually 2 - 4) at our creek crossing marking our entry into the creek, so we could see our way out on the return hike.  However, even if we did miss this trail mark, I can still see our previous tracks on my GPS and phone on the Topo Maps US app.

There was no water running at this time - only pools reflecting the yellow rocks above and the blue sky, with a thin sheet of ice in the morning.  I bet the water flow after a rain in this canyon is beautiful.  I'll run up here with my camera during the next rain.

Pure delight awaits as you top out on the east rim.  At the base of White Rock, there's a gorgeous flat area with curving ramps and flat rock stacks, and perhaps petrified sand dunes - all sorts of sandstone forms, and some highly developed biological crusts (see below).
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At White Rock's summit, Snow Canyon's deep chasms, made of striped white and orange Navajo Sandstone drop down to meet up with West Canyon Trail on its floor.  So many Colorado Plateau elements to take in:  white sandstone, accentuated with pockets of junipers, pinyon pines and prickly pear cacti undulates in many fun-to-walk forms.  Orange rock-strewn peaks rise above, inviting a boulder-filled scramble to the top.   I couldn't find a peak register.
Snow Canyon's highest summit, Peak 5024, lies ~ 15 degrees to the north of White Rock Peak, where you can see its summit.  We did the fun scramble to it, finding our way up a passage between sandstone domes on a path with a few footprints on it (some refer to this trail as "Awesome Chasm Trail").  We found remnants of possibly an old wooden survey marker on top.

Since 5024 is further north, you get a great view of the cinder cones to the north and the youngest rocks in this landscape:  the basalt flows that originated from vents and cones to the north.  The age of these flows is < 0.5 - 1.0 million years old.

Basalt flows lie at the foot of the Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon in photo at right.
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Summit of Peak 5024, the highest in Snow Canyon State Park, with an old wire wrapped around rock at right and remnants of possible survey marker.  Rock cairn on top!
Biological Soil Crusts Rule!
Well-established biological crusts thrive in open spaces between plants - they're miniature "mountains" of stabilizing lichens, cyanobacteria, and fungi.  The significance of cryptobiotic soils are easy to overlook as you take in beautiful sights at eye level.  The crusts in the photo are near White Rock Peak.

It's really important to avoid stepping on these crusts, as it takes many years to start building ones that have been crushed.  The crust in the image on the right represents a "pinnacled" morphology that is typical of the Colorado Plateau cool deserts.  The pinnacles are caused by frost-heaving, and can be up to 15 cm high.  These crusts can have a lot of lichen-moss cover - up to 40%.
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Though it was almost December, the sun was warm and the day was perfect.  We love hiking with Robin, Lindy and Jeff and I'm always amazed at the great friends we have met here in St. George.  We did the epic Grand Canyon rim to rim hike in May with Jeff and plan on another one, this time south to north rim.  We're grateful our legs can take us to these remarkable places!
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Our first attempts at finding White Rock Peak - climbing fractured sandstone just off the White Rocks Trail.
The polygonal and checkerboard fractures in this Navajo Sandstone are caused by temperature differences:  the sandstone got hot on summer days, then the shallow surface of the rock cooled down at night.  However, the deeper rock remained heated, and that created enough of a temperature difference to make the sandstone fracture.
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Starting at bottom of canyon leading to White Rock Peak.
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Making our way up canyon - passing a pool with a skim of ice on the surface.  You can see the dark edges of it where there was recently water.  We need more rain!!
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The same pool as above, this time we were coming back from our first White Rock Peak hike.
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We eventually dropped into the canyon around the corner of this big outcrop to the right, where we found a trail on the hillside above right that took us to the base of White Rock Peak.
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Dropping into the bottom of the canyon to gorgeous lichen-covered sandstone, junipers and manzanitas.
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Getting onto what looks like a human-made trail that leads up steep, rocky terrain on left side of canyon.
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Fred (lower right) climbing trail leading out of canyon.  We passed the dome above left on our way to Peak 5024.
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Nearing the top of Snow Canyon's east rim and the base of White Rock Peak, looking at the canyon we just ascended.
Diamond Cinder Cone in distance on left.
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Another beautiful pool at the top of the canyon.
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Arriving at the base of White Rock Peak. 
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Trail to summit of White Rock Peak (lower left) that goes by the large pinyon pine with stacked rocks under it.
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A great-looking "chasm" on the way up.  Looking at Deidre Peak on the west rim across Snow Canyon's valley.
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Jeff and Fred near White Rock's summit.
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Both images above looking at Snow Canyon's west rim from White Rock's summit.
Images from White Rock Peak's summit (clockwise).  View to the north of Pine Valley Mountains, Sue in her element, polygonal "pillows" at the base, West Canyon Trail in Snow Canyon's East Fork.
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After White Rock, heading to Peak 5024 upper right.
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Finding a way up to the saddle below Peak 5024.
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Working our way to the saddle on Peak 5024's north ridge.
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Almost at Peak 5024's summit, the highest in Snow Canyon State Park!
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Peak 5024 summit:  looking south at White Rock Peak upper left.
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Jeff, Robin and Lindy heading down toward ascent canyon.  Excellent hike today!
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Fred heading down toward ascent canyon.
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Elevation profile for White Rock Peak and Peak 5024, with a cumulative gain of 1,150'.
References
Loope, D. B. 2019.  Hexagonal Fracture Patterns On Navajo Sandstone Crossbeds At Yellow Knolls, Washington County.  Utah  Geological Association Publication #48. 

A Field Guide to Biological Soil Crusts of Western U.S. Drylands.  Bureau of Land Management. Publication 4
4 Comments

Hike Snow Benchmark in Red Mountain Wilderness, Utah

12/19/2024

0 Comments

 
Stellar views of the sheer cliff walls and chasms of Snow Canyon State Park from the highest summit of Red Mountain Wilderness.
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From Red Mountain Trail looking down into one of Snow Canyon's "chasms."
This canyon traces a normal fault with the west side of it (right) dropped down from the east side.
Trip Stats
Location: 
The highest point in Red Mountain Wilderness, north of St. George, Utah
Distance/Elevation gain:  7.2 miles out and back/900'.   Trailhead = 4,688'.  Summit = 5568'.  
Coordinates:  ​Summit = 37.25134  -113.68304

Trailhead: Red Mountain Trail on Hwy 18 north of St. George.
Date hiked:  October 19, 2024
Maps/Apps:  Topo Maps US
Considerations:  Red Mountain Trail becomes more faint beyond the turn-off for the Snow Canyon Overlook view.  There are no trail signs.  Experience with navigation/a good map are necessary.  The summit of Snow Benchmark is a short scramble from the trail.  

Links:  Red Cliffs Desert Reserve
Geology:  Large block of Navajo Sandstone deposited by wind in Early Jurassic period (same rock unit as Zion National Park).  The "chasm" or canyon that drops into Snow Canyon traces a normal fault, caused by crustal spreading.
Quote: 
"Joy to the world
All the boys and girls
Joy to the fishes in the deep blue sea
Joy to you and me."

-  song written by Hoyt Wayne Axton, performed by Three Dog Night
Biological Soil Crusts Rule!
Related
Snow Canyon Overlook
Red Mountain Primitive Trail
Winter Images from Snow Canyon
Lady Liberty's Flight
Overview 
Snow Benchmark, a brown juniper and pine-covered dome rises in contrast above the orange and white sheer Navajo Sandstone cliffs of northern Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah.  You can see it from town if you are near the opening of Snow Canyon to the south.  I've been looking at it for a few years, knowing it was the highest point in the Red Mountain Wilderness.  Finally, Fred and I took two friends to its summit via the northern end of the Red Mountain Trail just north of the Diamond Cinder Cone.

This hike travels the first few miles of the 9.5-mile Red Mountain Trail that treks almost due north and south on a gorgeous plateau with spectacular views of Snow Canyon State Park to its east.  Its northern trailhead is just north of Diamond Valley and its southern entrance can be accessed from 200 East Street in Ivins.  It's notorious for search and rescue calls due to hikers getting lost, because there are no trail signs and it's easy to lose the trail and get off into a canyon or wash.  It treks across areas of slickrock, through deep sand in parts.

This is one of the most gorgeous areas of Utah and I would venture to say the country.  I can't believe I live so close to it.  A green blanket of pinyon pines and junipers, interspersed with austere patches of bare slickrock, rises and falls, covering eroded sandstone domes and ancient sand dunes, and then abruptly ends at sheer orange and white cliffs where waterfalls tumble after a drenching rain.  From this perch 1,300 feet above the canyon floor, minuscule walkers and bikers move up and down West Canyon Road in Snow Canyon State Park.
Our Hike
The first mile of the northern Red Mountain Trail begins at a large parking lot and treks over a lot of big rocks scattered on the wide trail.  At an elevation above 4,500 feet, you travel through pinyon pines and Utah junipers in an undisturbed forest.  Lots of prickly pear, manzanita , sagebrush and scrub oak grow in the sandy soil and in sandstone cracks.

I could just sit on a pink-orange sandstone slab for awhile and breathe in the juniper and pine of this lovely place.  Maybe I would get to hear the "kaw" call of a few pinyon jays.

​At 0.8 miles, reach the fence for the Red Mountain Wilderness boundary.  Another mile down the trail, at 1.8 miles from the trailhead, reach the intersection for the Snow Canyon Overlook, a spectacular view with a sudden drop-off with Snow Canyon 1,600 feet below.  The hike to the overlook is 0.5 miles - a left turn (south) at the intersection.

Instead of taking the left trail at the intersection, keep straight on the Red Mountain Trail heading west/southwest.  At 2.3 miles into the hike, the trail runs close to the rim of one of Snow Canyon State Park's deep chasms.

At 3.0 miles, we found a drainage to follow up toward the summit, arriving to it in another 0.5 mile.  As with a lot of other hikes in this southern Utah area, there was a lot of biological soil crusts, AKA cryptobiotic soil to avoid stepping on.  

Why "Benchmark"?
A bench mark is a fixed point of elevation used as a point of reference for other topographical elevations.  The metal survey disc that marks the Snow Benchmark has a triangle carved into it, indicating that it's a triangulation station, which means it's a position by which other secondary markers are related. Triangulation is a method used in mapping regions using angles and distances between various points.

​It's called "benchmark" because surveyors would put an angle iron into a chiseled horizontal line to form a bench on which a leveling rod was placed.  This ensured that the rod would be placed the same every time the bench mark was used for calculation.

Someone had scratched the elevation onto this marker, as there was no stamped number next to "feet."
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USGS Survey marker for Snow Benchmark
Afterward, we celebrated on a tailgate with tortilla chips and three different kinds of salsa from our local farmer's market, supplied by Robin.  She brought these because that was the tradition of my hiking buddies many years ago in the Coachella Valley.  After most hikes we would celebrate with chips and salsa and Corona beer with lime!  Great memories - relish the good times and good life!
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Hiking south on Red Mountain Trail with Snow Benchmark (rounded tree-covered dome on right) in sight.
Interesting tilted sandstone cross beds on the trail.
The first mile of Red Mountain Trail is super rocky!  Entering Red Mountain Wilderness at 0.8 miles from trailhead.
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Getting further into Red Mountain Wilderness with Snow Benchmark on the right horizon.
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Chasm into Snow Canyon:  this stream empties into the main canyon, where West Canyon Trail is.
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Leaving Red Mountain Trail heading south to take a right turn (west) to summit Snow Benchmark.
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We found a beautiful drainage to follow to the base of Snow Benchmark.  From here on, avoiding cryptobiotic soil that covered much of this terrain.
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Beauty in a tree trunk on the way up.
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After ascending the drainage, the topography flattens out before the final ascent.
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Picking our way through the brush and trees near the summit.
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Looking back at the east wall of the huge chasm during our ascent.
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Pretty easy summit to get to!
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From the summit looking south into Arizona (right) and Red Mountain plateau (left).
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Snow Benchmark summit - 5,568', looking southeast at Snow Canyon.  The Red Mountain Trail continues south through the light-colored slickrock upper right.
Some cool stuff on the trail:  Biological soil crusts, iron oxide coating(?), Sue and Fred,
apres' hike chips and salsa courtesy of Robin!!
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Robin on the way down from the summit.
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One last look down the chasm into Snow Canyon State Park on our way back.
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A last look at Snow Benchmark from a patch of white slick rock.
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Caltopo map of our tracks to Snow Benchmark from upper Red Mountain Trailhead off of Highway 18.
References
A Field Guide to Biological Soil Crusts of Western U.S. Drylands.  Bureau of Land Management.

​Warren, S.D.  2014.  Role of Biological Soil Crusts in Desert Hydrology and geomorphology:  Implications for Military Training Operations.

Biological Soil Crusts:  Ecology and Management.  2001.  U.S. Department of the Interior.
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Hike Copper Belt Peak, 11,383':  High Tushars Grandeur

11/25/2024

4 Comments

 
Walking through Tushars tundra and seeing mountain goats from afar on the highest mountain range in southern Utah.
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The volcanic high Tushars looking west.
From left to right:  Mount Baldy, Mount Belknap, Gold Mountain, Signal Peak.
Trip Stats
Location:  Fishlake National Forest - Tushar Mountains - east of Beaver, Utah.
Distance/Elevation gain:  7.0 miles out and back/1,150' on approach due to regaining lost elevation. 
​Trailhead = 10,900'  highest summit = 11,576'
Bullion Pasture Traihead:  Drive Hwy 153 just east of Beaver ~ 19 miles to turn-off to the left onto FR 123, then  ~ 10 miles on FR 123 to trailhead (approximate distances).
Maps/Apps:  Fishlake National Forest - Beaver and Fillmore Districts Travel Map.  
Date Hiked:  October 12, 2024
Factors that make this hike more difficult: high altitude, trail not marked.
Buillon Pasture trailhead:  37.04002  -112.39649
Geology:  Bullion Canyon Volcanics - Miocene (22-35 Ma)
Other Trip Reports:  Stavislost.com     Beyond My Couch
Copper Belt Peak Maps/tracks
Considerations:
Trail is unmarked and not apparent in a few places.  Experience with navigation using map is necessary.

Mountain Weather Forecast - Mount Delano
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Quote:  "Change happens through movement and movement heals." 
-  Joseph Pilates, inventor of the Pilates Method 
Related Posts
Humphreys Peak: On Top of Arizona
Mt. Holly/Delano Peak loop: Tushars
Shelly Baldy Peak, 11,321' - Tushars
Delano Peak - Tushar's Highest
Hike Summary
0 - 0.7 miles: 
Bullion Pasture Trailhead to first high point at 11,200'
0.7 - 2.0 miles:  to highest point on hike at 11,500' (this is just to saddle;  option is to summit 11,673' peak)
2.0 - 3.5 miles:  highest point to Copper Belt Peak summit at 11,383'
Overview
There's something about this little-known mountain range that keeps us going back.  Actually, lot of things. It's a striking high volcanic range where you walk on tundra above tree line to look over southern Utah and through aspens and meadows with wildflower-lined creeks in the summer.  It's only a couple of hours drive from St. George.  Often times we see more mountain goats than people on the trails.

So far we've hiked four of the Tushar summits, all of them over 11,000 feet.  The hike to Delano Peak, the highest peak in southern Utah, is a defined and short path if approaching from the west.  Hikes to Mount Holly and Shelly Baldy require a bit of cross-country navigation.  

​​This hike starts and stays high, with fantastic views as you cross grassy ridges and a talus-riddled saddle to drop onto an old mining road that leads to the easily-climbed ridge to Copper Belt Peak.  There's a good chance you will see mountain goats, and we did on this trip.  The trail is not marked and is faint in some places, so having GPS tracks and a map is helpful.

This peak gets its name from the significant copper ore deposits in this area, and in fact, Copper Belt Mine lies to its northeast.  Other mines in the area are Bully Boy, Cascade, and Shamrock.
Our Hike (topo map and our tracks at end of this post)
We stayed in our favorite campground, Mahogany Cove, on Hwy 153 about 13 miles east of downtown Beaver, Utah, sleeping in the bed of our truck.  It's ~ 6 miles from there to the turnoff for FR 123, a graded gravel road that goes past Big John's Flat and the trailhead to Delano Peak, and to Bullion Pasture trailhead in about 10 miles from turn-off.

At this elevation, aspens had already dropped their leaves and it was chilly, but beautifully sunny.  The trail begins east from the parking lot, where you see the mountain range you will be traversing through.  It goes to the right of the dark copper-colored peak furthest to the left.  To the right of that, a higher, broader light tan peak (Peak 11,673') is the highest on this trail.  Copper Belt Peak is behind this summit.

​The trail starts out very defined for the first 0.6 miles, where you encounter your first "bump" on the ridge after walking through a wide grassy saddle.  It traverses the right (south) side of this bump, where you see the next dark bump.   Unless you want to climb it, the trail goes around it to the left, 1.0 mile into the hike.  

For another 0.6 miles, hike along a relatively flat path through grass and volcanic rock to drop down onto another grassy saddle with a close-up view of the climb to come.  We met two hunters from St. George here, and we had a nice chat with them.  One is also a wildlife photographer:  mike_wildphoto64 on Instagram.

From this saddle, it's a 250' climb to the saddle between the round dark brown peak on the left and Peak 11,673' on the right. The climb to this peak is just 100 feet above the saddle.  The talus slope here is steep, so the trail climbs high towards Peak 11,673' summit to avoid too much traversing through the talus.

Once past Peak 11,673', the old road to the base of Copper Belt Peak comes into view;  follow it to the base of Copper Belt and then hike up its southern ridge to the summit at 11,383'!!
For the Geo-curious:  Walking through Volcanic Terrain
The map below shows our tracks (blue) through a geologic map of the Tushar Mountains on Google Earth.  Each of the different types of rock are recorded as map units, with their corresponding color and abbreviation.  On geologic maps, yellow always denotes the youngest map unit - the Quaternary Period which is 2.5 million years ago (Ma) to present time.

The oldest is the prevolcanic sedimentary rocks - 170 million years old - from the Jurassic Period (Ja) unit in blue on the right side.  Even after the explosive volcanic eruptions that formed the Tushar Mountains 22 Ma, this old Jurassic unit is still revealed at the surface.

​Our tracks begin at the Bullion Pasture Trailhead (lower left) in rhyolite (Tmbl), an extrusive rock that's high in silica and the chemical equivalent of granite (an intrusive rock).  It originated from the inside of the Mount Belknap Caldera.   Quickly, the trail crosses over the wall of the Belknap Caldera (line formed by red "T's")

After briefly crossing a Quaternary landslide (Ql), we headed into the Bullion Canyon Volcanic rocks (Tbm and Tbd), where we would spend most of the time for the rest of the hike, higher on the ridge.  


This hike is significant for trekking through Mount Belknap caldera (collapsed volcano following magma chamber emptying) rocks as well as Bullion Canyon volcanic rocks to the southeast, two different volcanic terrains.

So much more to explore in the unique Tushars:  more peaks to climb and trails to hike.  We're grateful we are able to experience these beautiful places.
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Geologic map of the Tushars with our hike tracks on Google Earth.
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Truck shot:  on our way to Bullion Pasture Trailhead on FR 123, AKA Paiute ATV Trail #01.
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The trail begins at the left of this sign.  Trailhead reached via FR 123 coming from the south.
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Starting from the trailhead in the morning - heading to the peaks on the left with the dark "copper" colors.
​Copper Belt Peak is behind the pointy peak on the left.

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A good night's sleep in our truck bed last night and we are ready to go!
Just past the trailhead.
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Looking back at the trail we have just ascended (far right).  I'm on the first "bump" on the ridge.
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Trail goes across saddle to the left and around to the left of this next bump on the ridge (11,450').
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Not too many hikes do I have to wear my puff jacket:  pretty chilly this morning at 11,000 feet!
Heading to the saddle between the two peaks above my head to the right.

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Looking at Peak 11,673', the highest peak on the hike, to the right of the copper-colored peak.  Trail goes up through the pass between these two high points.
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Approaching the lighter-colored mini-ridge where the trail descends through its low point into a lower saddle where it then ascends the flank of Peak 11,673' to the right, then traverses through the saddle on the left of the darker peak.
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We ran into two fully-outfitted hunters.  The man on the left is a wildlife photographer.
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Trail goes up to the saddle separating the two high points above.  You have the option of summiting the point on the right, which is Peak 11, 673', the highest on this hike.  The trail is just to the left of this summit.
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Getting closer to Peak 11,673' on the right. You can see a faint trail on the left side of it.
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Looking back at hunters (left) and our trail.  Mount Baldy on the right.
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Ascending toward saddle with Peak 11,673', the highest point on this hike, on Fred's right.  We didn't ascend this peak, but instead walked around its left side.
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Mt. Belknap, the second-highest Tushar peak (left), and Gold Mountain in center.
Added to our peak-bagging list!
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Past the highest point on the hike, you walk toward the old (probably mining) road to the right of Fred. Copper Belt Peak is just on Fred's left with small dark dome on top.
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Seeing mountain goats lying down on rock outcrop in the distance (lower center).
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Looking back at old road along ridge, Mount Belknap on the right.
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Copper Belt Peak ahead.  Planning our ascent:  we left road near saddle of ridge to the peak' right.
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Heading toward saddle on ridge just under Copper Belt (left).
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It's an easy scramble to the top of Copper Belt Peak.
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Looking west at the volcanic Mount Baldy and Mount Belknap from near Copper Belt's summit.
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From Copper Peak's summit:  Looking east at Mt. Baldy (left) and Mt. Belknap (right). 
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Another Tushar peak conquered!
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Copper Belt Peak register.
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Post-hike celebration with fresh cantaloupe at the trailhead.  We use the foam pads in the truck cab to sleep on.  
 
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Caltopo map of our GPS tracks from Bullion Pasture trailhead (lower left) heading northeast to Copper Belt Peak.
Elevation profile shows the one-way approach to the peak.
​North points up.

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Hike Humphreys Peak, 12,633':  On Top of Arizona

11/2/2024

2 Comments

 
Hike to the top of a collapsed stratovolcano in Arizona's alpine tundra for a view of the Grand Canyon (on a clear day).
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On top of Arizona:  a spectacular look toward the east at the Inner Basin sculpted by San Francisco Mountain avalanche that occurred as a result of caldera collapse, and the San Francisco Volcanic Field in the distance.
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Sue and Fred on top of Humphreys Peak among rocks that are the remains of a huge stratovolcano caused by Great Basin stretching that brought mantle rock higher to the surface.
Trip Stats via Snowbowl Trailhead
Location:  ​Coconino National Forest - Kachina Peaks Wilderness - San Francisco Mountains, Flagstaff, northern Arizona.
Distance/Elevation gain:  4.8 miles from parking lot (9,266') to Humphreys summit (12,633') = 3,367' gain (9.6 miles out and back).
Trailhead:  From Flagstaff drive north on US 180 for 7 miles to FR 516, the Snowbowl Road. Drive 7.4 miles on this paved road to the lower parking lot of the Snowbowl facility. The trailhead is located at the north end of the parking lot.  Forest Service info:  Humphreys Trail #151)
Factors that make this hike more difficult:  high altitude.
Date Hiked:  October 7, 2024.
Prominence:  6,039'.
Maps/Apps:  Humphreys Peak Quad topo map, AllTrails.
Interactive ​Caltopo map of the San Francisco Peaks and Flagstaff Area. with our GPS tracks.
Considerations and links: Mountain Weather Forecast - Humphreys Peak.     Flagstaff Rangers District.
​Geology:  Humphreys is the highest of the San Francisco Peaks (Agassiz and Aubineau are two others), of a much taller San Francisco Mountain, which was a large stratovolcano composed of layers of lava, cinders, pumice and ash that erupted over 900,000 - 400,000 years ago.  After this, the top and northeast side of this stratovolcano collapsed in a gigantic avalanche that flowed out toward the northeast.  Stratovolcanoes are steep because the extruding lava is high in silica (geology term is felsic - quartz and feldspar forming) and therefore has higher viscosity, so it solidifies more quickly, creating a steep profile.
Related Posts in Arizona
Quote:  
​
Find tongues in trees,
books in the running brooks,
Sermons in stone, and
good in everything.

         -  William Shakespeare
Grand Canyon rim to rim
Arizona Hikes
Biking the Arizona National Scenic Trail
sinagua petroglyphs

​The remnants of a much higher stratovolcano, Humphreys Peak stands higher than any other summit in Arizona, with an additional advantage of having the second-highest prominence.  Prominence is a measure of the difference in elevation between the summit and the lowest point along the ridge that connects the mountain to a higher mountain (from surgent.net).

Both Fred and I hiked this this summit 30 years ago, separately.  The aspect I remember most, aside from the false summit, was the view of the Grand Canyon to the north.  This time it was a bit too hazy to see the Grand Canyon, but I could see the Painted Desert in the distance.

As with other summits, Humphreys has a couple of "false summits".  In fact, on our way down, a guy hiking up was grumbling about the false summit he was on and that the trail was a bit hard to follow occasionally.  But we knew what to expect this time:  the first summit you see is not Humphreys; it's hiding behind it.

The altitude is the most limiting factor of this hike, especially if you are coming from a lower elevation.
Our Hike
​Trailhead to forest switchbacks
(0 - 1.0 mile, 9,266' - 9,940')
Forest switchbacks to saddle on Humphreys' south ridge (1.0 - 3.8 miles, 11,780')
Ridge to Point 12, 297 (3.8 - 4.2 miles, 12,297')
Point 12,297' to summit (4.2 - 4.8 miles, 12,633')
The Arizona Gondola of the Arizona Snowbowl Ski Resort is visible across the valley to the south as the trail progresses up to Humphreys' south ridge and a spectacular view to the east.  Here, and the rest of the way to the summit, you see different views of the massive avalanche topography that occurred hundreds of thousands of years ago when the eastern flank of San Fransisco Mountain collapsed, leaving six peaks lining the ridge above it.

Agassiz Peak is one of them, a large peak to the right (south), and from what I read of other trip posts, illegal to climb unless there's snow to cover a federally-listed threatened plant, the San Francisco Peaks groundsel.  It grows only in the alpine tundra of the San Francisco Peaks at 11,000 - 12,400' elevation.  It thrives in the volcanic rock talus on Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks.   We did see one sign - "Hiking off trail prohibited - $500 fine" at the ridge. 

At the saddle on the ridge, the Weatherford Trail heads southeast towards Agassiz, Fremont and Doyle Peaks that line this huge avalanche chute, which is referred to as the "Inner Basin."  It looks so tempting to go back and summit these mountains, but for Agassiz it would have to be with snow cover.

Now it's just a matter of hiking through a steep volcanic talus slope, arriving at a "false summit" before you actually get to Humphreys, another 0.5 miles, straddling the ridge with the inner basin to the east and cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field to the west.

We got to spend more summit time than usual because of the great weather:  sunny, pleasant and no winds!  A jubilant group arrived with one South Carolina couple that had Humphreys on their peak list.

We made a hasty retreat down the trail in anticipation of our celebratory beer.  We walked around a vibrant Flagstaff downtown, after leaving our car at the hotel.  Afterward, we met our Uber driver in front of an impressive climbing gym.  
For the Geo-Curious:  San Francisco Volcanic Field
​
Humphreys Peak sits in the middle of Northern Arizona's San Francisco Volcanic Field, which covers about 1,800 square miles.  Around 600 volcanoes were produced in this field starting 6 million years ago.  Many of the mountains between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon represent this field.  These eruptions "migrated" west to east, meaning the eastern eruptions were the youngest.  What better place, besides a helicopter or plane, to see a lot of these volcanoes than the summit of Humphreys?

Volcanism is usually associated with tectonic plate boundaries, like with Mount St. Helens or Mount Rainier or Kilauea in Hawaii.  This volcanic field occurs on the border of the Colorado Plateau and the actively stretching (extensional) Great Basin and Range Province.  Stretching causes a thinning of the Earth's crust, which in turn brings warm mantle rock closer to the surface.  The resultant depressurization and increased heat of this rock was the impetus for the San Francisco Volcanic Field and its many volcanoes.


Volcanic rock color gives a clue as to what type it is.  The more silica it contains, the lighter and thicker (more viscosity) it is.  Basalt is black and has the lowest amount of silica, with larger amounts of iron and magnesium, and is the most prominent rock making up the San Francisco Volcanic Field's volcanoes.  Andesite, a dark grey rock, has an intermediate silica amount, and is the prominent rock of Humphreys and Aggasiz Peaks.  Light grey rhyolite is the most silica-rich rock and therefore is more viscous.
Picture Canyon and the Northern Sinagua Petroglyphs
Long before Flagstaff's vibrant downtown, the Sinagua (sin = without, agua = water) people inhabited northern Arizona between 500 - 1450 AD.  They were hunters and gatherers with some agricultural practices.

We stopped by Picture Canyon Natural and Cultural Preserve in Flagstaff to find the Northern Sinagua petroglyphs, one of which is a waterbird.  We found this cluster of petroglyphs on basalt boulders along the Tom Moody Trail, next to Rio de Flag, a permanent stream, where perhaps the Sinagua saw cranes or herons.  

The "zig-zag" petroglyph may represent lightning, water, or mountains.

Check out photos of these petroglyphs at the end of this post.

A 1.5-mile section of the Arizona Trail treks through this preserve.
More to Explore
​
As usual, with each hike we do, we find more to do, more places to explore.  We're in our early 60's, gratefully healthy, and trying to get as many summits and expeditions in as possible before we can't.  We've lost a little speed, joints hurt a little more from our earlier hiking days, but we still take advantage of our good health and keep challenging ourselves.  Life is short - get out there (put the phone away) for mind, body and spirit!  
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From the Snowbowl trailhead, hike up this ski slope and then enter the forest.  Humphreys summit is in the shadow.
Entering the forest
Switchbacks up west flank of Humphreys
Clouds departing, sunny skies ahead on upper switchbacks
First view of Humphreys' south ridge and the first "hump"
Switchbacks through a beautiful forest to saddle on ridge.
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Reach Humphreys' south ridge at 3.8 miles and 11,780'.  Looking toward the east at the "Inner Basin" created by a massive avalanche.  Humphreys Peak trail traverses along ridgeline upper left.  The green peaks lower center may be Aubineau and Rees on the northern-most rim of the Inner Basin.
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Intersection at saddle.  A glimpse of the top of Arizona Snowbowl's gondola just above the bottom sign.  No hiking off-trail probably due to protection for the threatened San Francisco Peaks groundsel.
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On the ridge headed up to Point 12,297', the second "bump" from the left.
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Heading north up the ridge from the saddle.  Trail markers are made of old branch signs.  Also a warning sign to stay on the trail.
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Looking back at Agassiz Peak on the left and Arizona Snowbowl Ski Area in valley to the right.
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Approaching Humphreys' summit.
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Humphreys' summit!!
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Someone made two rock lounge chairs on the summit.
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Heading back:  Agassiz Peak on the left.
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Looking west toward Kendrick Peak (my best guess after looking at maps of the San Francisco Volcanic Field map).
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Map of San Francisco Volcanic Field from Aperiodic Wanderings
Humphreys Peak is the largest in the center with its horseshoe-shaped Inner Basin on the east side sculpted by a giant avalanche from a caldera collapse.

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Off the saddle and into the forest on the way back down.
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Our GPX tracks on Google Earth.
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Caltopo map of our tracks (in pink) going through switchbacks and along ridge to Humphreys summit. 
​This map includes all six of the peaks surrounding the "Inner Basin."
Profile of Humphrey ascent from 9,266' to 12,629' in 4.8 miles.
Interactive ​Caltopo map of the San Francisco Peaks and Flagstaff Area with our GPS tracks.
 
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Northern Sinagua petroglyphs.  Note the waterbird (first photo) in lower center, partially shaded.
Sources
Atlas Obscura.  Picture Canyon.

Wade, B.  (from Arizona Snowbowl website).  San Francisco Peaks Geology.

Cook, T., Abbott, L.  2017.  Travels in Geology:  Cones and Craters in Flagstaff, Arizona.  From website Earth.

USGS.  San Francisco Volcanic Field.

The University of Arizona:  Arizona Geological Survey.  San Francisco Peaks Inner Basin.
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Pondering Petroglyphs:  A Shamanistic Possibility

10/8/2024

2 Comments

 
A discovery of Glen Canyon Style 4 and 5 petroglyphs along the Escalante River in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
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Part of a large petroglyph panel along Escalante River near Neon Canyon illustrating images of differing styles and age.
Fred and I found this huge petroglyph panel near the Escalante River in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument's Egypt section while looking for Neon Canyon's entrance.  It overlooks a wide grassy meadow lined with cottonwood trees and tells a story that spans hundreds, possibly thousands of years about early indigenous peoples to modern-day ranchers and explorers.

Utah is a paradise for those who love rock art and wonder about the people who created it.


We were in a remote part of one of remotest places in the U.S. - the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  No one near us for miles.  Sublime mixture of moqui marbles, orange sand, yellow wildflowers, junipers and soaring orange/purple-red canyon walls.  Paradise!

​The relative age of each petroglyph can be guessed by identifying its "style" and the extent to which it has become repatinated (rock varnish regrowth).

The newer images are obviously the horse with saddle, names and numbers, and the large figure to the right wearing a hat with arms raised.  There's also many abstract images (wavy lines) as well as zoomorphs (animals) and anthropomorphs (human-like) images.
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Possibly Glen Canyon Style 5 petroglyph - before 1050 A.D.
Notice the sheep lower left - it may be older because it has had more time to become repatinated.
The petroglyph that caught my eye is the figure standing with small arms relative to its long trapezoidal body, wearing what might be a headdress - maybe a shaman?  Or a chief?  I went to the library, perused the internet to learn more of who might have made it and when.  It appears to match the characteristics of Glen Canyon Style 5, the earliest style (pre-1050 A.D.) made by Basketmaker and Pueblo I cultures in the Glen Canyon region.
Glen Canyon Linear Style
This petroglyph style was identified by Turner in 1963 when he spent three years documenting various petroglyphs in the Glen Canyon region, which is supplied by the Colorado and San Juan Rivers.  What he called "Style 5," was switched to the term "Glen Canyon Linear Style" by another rock art expert, Polly Schaafsma.  The Escalante River, where this panel is found, drains into the Colorado River just north of Glen Canyon.   

Elaborate headdresses, rectilinear forms, and small arms and legs pecked with a single line are characteristic of Style 5, or Linear Style.  The cross-hatching present in the lower part of the torso is highly diagnostic for this style, which predated the Anasazi.  Vertical and horizontal lines in the interior of the body in quadripeds (usually sheep) is a defining characteristics of Style 5.

If you look at the petroglyphs on the panel above, you will see more images diagnostic of Glen Canyon Linear Style:  the long wavy line with the knob at the end to represent a snake possibly, as well as zigzags, and plant images.
Is it a Shaman?  Or Warrior?  Or Leader?  Or Hero?
​This figure seems to suggest a person of special significance because it's more elaborately attired than others on this wall.  Headdresses like feathers and horns often signified supernatural shamanic power.

Warriors are often depicted with shields, weapons (bows, arrows and atlatls) and helmets.  However, Schaafsma says that figures with feather headdresses can symbolize chiefs or warriors.

Shamans, in many native American cultures, were the link between the physical and spiritual world.  They represent a deep connection to the Divine through all things, and the natural force in everything.  Shamanism is a primal belief system common to many ancient peoples and predates established religion of today.  Shamans would enter the spirit domain via a trance to communicate with spirits for healing, information, so they could heal the mind, body, or soul of their subject.  These special people weren't always called "shamans" by native Americans, but mystics, healers, and medicine people instead.
Shamanism and the Sensuous
A quote from David Abram, an ecophilosopher, from his book The Spell of the Sensuous describes the shaman's role:
"The traditional or tribal shaman, ....acts as an intermediary between the human community and the larger ecological field, ensuring that there is an appropriate flow of nourishment, not just from the landscape to the human inhabitants, but from the human community back to the local earth.  By his constant rituals, trances, ecstasies, and "journeys," he ensures that the relation between human society and the larger society of beings is balanced and reciprocal, and that the village never takes more from the living land than it returns to it—not just materially but with prayers, propitiations, and praise."

​For me it's fun to imagine what people looked like while they were pecking these petroglyphs.  How long did it take?  What did they use?  What were they thinking while making them?  Were they portraying their idols, just like we do today?  What were they trying to communicate?  What was their life like?  What did they think about life......and death?
These questions can't always be answered - so we can keep on imagining and wondering, adding to the mystique of petroglyphs.  We know that petroglyphs were pecked with hammerstone and chisel, or a very sharp hammerstone or even a bone.  Some petroglyphs and pictographs portray something pretty obvious - like hunting and birthing scenes, however with many of these images, their mystery lives on.
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Additional petroglyphs on this panel along the Escalante River.  The lines drawn inside the figures is diagnostic of Glen Canyon Linear Style, the oldest of the Glen Canyon petroglyphs.  Look how high up the wall they are!
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In the Glen canyon style, sheep have exceptionally large rectangular bodies with disproportionately small heads and legs.
This petroglyph is on the Tempi po-op Trail in Ivins, Utah.  
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Neon Canyon photos - on the way to Golden Cathedral.  This petroglyph panel is near the mouth of this canyon.
Hike Golden Cathedral/Neon Canyon via Beeline Trail.
Related Posts
Golden Cathedral/Neon Canyon
Petroglyph/Pictograph page
Cosmic Ashtray
Corn Springs Petroglyphs: Vision Quests
Incredible Parowan Gap Petroglyphs
Black Dragon Canyon/Temple Mountain
Sources
Turner II, C.  1963.  Petrographs of the Glen Canyon Region:  Styles, Chronology, Distribution and Relationships from Basketmaker to Navajo.

Schaafsma, P.  The Rock Art of Utah.  1971.  

Schaafsma, P.  1980.  Indian Rock Art of the Southwest.  School of American Research, Southwest Indian Art Series.

Indian Traders.  Native American Shamanism.

Patterson, Alex.  1992.  A Field Guide to Rock Art Symbols of the Greater Southwest.

​Abram, David. 1996. The Spell of the Sensuous.  Vintage Books.
2 Comments

Out of Baker, Nevada:  Ancient Bristlecones and Mount Moriah

9/29/2024

4 Comments

 
 Searching for Prometheus, chasing sunset's light, and finding peace in the remote Great Basin Snake Range.
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Stella Lake at sunset under Wheeler Peak (right) and Doso Doyabi (left).
 Great Basin National Park
Trip Stats
Location: 
Snake Range - Great Basin National Park - Eastern Nevada
Date visited:  Sept.  8-11, 2024.
​Photo advice:  Stella Lake is great for sunset shots, as Wheeler Peak and Doso Doyabi are bathed in orange light that reflects into the lake; late afternoon/early evening light was good at the bristlecone pine grove.
Links:  Stargazer Inn and Bristlecone General Store       Great Basin NP
Directions to Mount Moriah Big Canyon Trailhead - Willhite Web.com  (
trail map at end of this post).
Mount Moriah Big Canyon Trailhead:   39.301432   -114.211424
Hike to Wheeler Bristlecone Grove:  2.8 miles total out and back from the end of Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive at Wheeler Peak Campground.
Fun Fact:  The Prometheus tree, a Great Basin Bristlecone pine, once recorded as the oldest tree in the world (4700-5000 years old) is located in the Wheeler Bristlecone Grove in Great Basin National Park.
Quote:

"Now he walks in quiet solitude, the forest and the streams
Seeking grace in every step he takes
His sight has turned inside himself to try and understand
The serenity of a clear blue mountain lake."

          - John Denver, from his song Rocky Mountain High
Related Posts
North Schell Peak, 11,883'
Wheeler Peak, 13,063'
Sunflower Mountain
Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove
FUN-ky Baker

​Baker may be a small, dusty town out in the middle of nowhere, Nevada, with only one gas station and one school (elementary), but it's a significant "home base" for exploration.   Just west of the Utah border, the curious and intrepid adventurer can spend a few days in nearby (only 5 miles away) Great Basin National Park hiking to Earth's oldest trees (bristlecone pines), hike to Nevada's second-highest (13,065') summit of Wheeler Peak, visit the Lehman Caves with its impressive array of stalactites and stalagmites, or hike to Nevada's only glacier.

Fred and I met up with friend and photographer Mike Shedlock (Mish) to photograph Stella Lake and the Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove at evening/sunset. We have gone on some photography expeditions, including Golden Cathedral in Escalante National Monument.  One night we had mediocre light/cloud conditions at Stella Lake, however when we returned two nights later after a storm, we had perfect clouds for photographing, so we caught the magic moment when two peaks were illuminated with orange and then red light, right before the light was lost.  I'm grateful I have met Mish through this website, as I have learned from his photography techniques.  Check out his image of the Ward Charcoal Ovens below.
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Baker, just off of "The Loneliest Road in America."
Mount Moriah
Other adventures in Baker's backyard include summiting Mount Moriah, in the northern Snake Range, north of Great Basin National Park. This summit includes "the table" reached just below, a worthy destination all its own.  Our plan to summit this mountain failed when we parked too far away from Big Canyon Trailhead, the highest on Moriah's western side, after a very slow (5 mph) drive up a grueling and long rocky access road, doubling our planned hiking distance.  We didn't have it in us to do it this time.  Instead, we made it to a 10,000-foot summit nearby with a register in a glass jar and some bristlecone pines.  Mount Moriah will have to be a "grudge" peak for now.  We will probably access it from an eastern trailhead.  (Trail map to summit at end of this post).

Bristlecones! ♡ is an entry in the register that prompted me to explore more of this ridgeline, and indeed I did find some bristleccone pines a few hundred yards away, sadly dead or nearly dead.  I can't help but wonder what these stalwart trees witnessed over the possibly hundreds and maybe even thousands of years of their lives.
Dog Spring Guard Station
Mount Moriah, 12,072'
Peak register at 10,025'
Hike toward Mount Moriah from NF Road 469.
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Bristlecone pine or Limber pine?  I think bristlecone.  Near Mount Moriah Wilderness at 10,000 feet.
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From the truck:  driving back down to Spring Valley, looking at the Schell Creek Range on the other side.
Nevada, the heart of the Great Basin, is significant for its many parallel mountain ranges as a result of extension of the Earth's crust.  Note the sun shining on the light-colored silt and clay playa, an ancient lake filled during Pleistocene times.
Ward Charcoal Ovens
The Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park near Ely and to the northwest of Baker features an essential process of remote silver ore mining in the American West.  It's a popular place to do night photography.  Located in the Egan Range, these ovens, or kilns, were used in the late 1800's to make charcoal, an efficient fuel used in smelters to extract the minerals from silver ore.  Normal supply lines couldn't reach these remote areas, so the kilns burned local trees to make the charcoal.  The image below was made by Mish.
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Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park.
photo by Mish  (Mike Shedlock) - mishmoments.com

Comment from Mish:
“I used small, thin, Lume Cubes to light the inside of the kilns. The Milky Way was taken separately at Great Basin but is in the correct spot.  The kilns are a panoramic blend of 8 overlapping images with only 4 of 6 kilns used in the final composite.”
“I like blue hour blends. That is the hour after sunset or the hour before sunrise. Working with multiple sets of images improves the ability to capture details and reduce noise. There is a period of about 20 minutes in the middle of the blue hour where ambient light and light from Lume Cubes roughly match intensity. The resultant image is a whopping 656 megabytes.”​
 



​Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove:  Prometheus - the oldest tree on Earth
Fred and I searched for Prometheus, the oldest-known non-clonal organism on Earth, estimated to be 4,900 years old when it was cut down by a researcher in 1964.  It's in the Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove, but we didn't find the stump.  Its scientific name - Pinus longaeva - literally means "ancient aged."

Bristlecones flourish where many species cannot, in limestone rocks and soil; this reduces their chance of burning by forest fire.
The Wheeler Peak grove is unusual in that it grows in quartzite boulders on a glacial moraine.   The top of Wheeler Peak is quartzite, a metamorphic sandstone.
​
Prometheus, in Greek mythology means "forethought";  he was a god of fire.  Actually, myth has it that Prometheus stole fire from gods and gave it to humans to advance civilization.

​The bristlecone's dramatic, jagged and twisted appearance reflects its endurance in harsh conditions.  High winds twist them, cold temperatures contribute to slow tree ring growth, creating a protective, dense wood that resists insects and rot.

These majestic trees have been around during the fall of civilizations and the creation of America, survived through catastrophic volcanism.

Two other bristlecone groves in Great Basin State Park are the Mount Washington and Eagle Peak groves.

Our Photo Expedition
The challenge Mish and I had on this day was to find the right light conditions for photographing these bristlecones and then make sure we got to Stella Lake in time for optimal sunset shots.  Lucky for us, the wind blew away smoke from wildfires, storm clouds came in to reveal perfect illumination for photography.  

After photographing the bristlecones in late afternoon, we took the long way to Stella Lake afterwards risking missing optimal sunset light on the lake.  We realized afterward that there's a quicker way to get to Stella Lake from Teresa Lake, next to the bristlecone grove.  We set up our tripods and began shooting just in time as the light grew more and more intense on Wheeler and Doso Doyabi and in the lake's reflection.  The clouds were perfect!

One of the extraordinary things about photographing nature is the few magic seconds when you capture a scene not usually witnessed by humans.  The fast-changing light of a sunset makes you realize how quickly time passes.  Mountains stay the same for eons and a bristlecone pine would barely change during our lifetimes, but light can change quickly.  After all, it's the various degrees of light we are capturing with our cameras, as "photograph" means "writing with light."
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Bristlecones from Wheeler Peak Grove and Forest Road 469 en route to Mount Moriah's Big Canyon Trailhead.
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Identifying features of a bristlecone pine:  one-inch-long needles in packets of five that grow in tufts, and cones with scales that are tipped with a claw-like bristle.
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Bristlecones under Wheeler Peak
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Stella Lake with Doso Doyabi illuminated above.
The name comes from Shoshone language meaning "white peak."

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FUN-ky Baker
Horseshoes, anyone?
Little Free Library and Little Free Pantry (microwave)
Iconic Baker: bristlecone, starry skies and Wheeler Peak
Baker Community Church
Baker, Nevada scenes on a very smoky day due to distant wildfires.  The smoke actually made good lighting conditions for photography but bad conditions for breathing!
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"Museum of the Future Coming Soon" on an old cabin with photos below:  something to look forward to ;)
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Abandoned cabin in "downtown" Baker.
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Topo map of hike (yellow) from Big Canyon Trailhead to Mount Moriah summit.
References
Britannica Website - "Prometheus."
​National Park Service - Great Basin National Park - Bristlecone Pines
4 Comments

Hike Mount Baldy, 8,890' for Solitude and Zion Scenes

9/13/2024

2 Comments

 
Walk on one of Earth's largest laccoliths in a quiet part of the Pine Valley Mountains near St. George, Utah.
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View of Zion National Park's Kolob Canyons from Mount Baldy's summit
Trip Stats
Overview:  ​Climb from desert scrub to a summit of aspens, pines and a great view of Zion National Park's Kolob Canyons and West Rim sections on this out and back hike in the northern Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness out of New Harmony, Utah. 
Trailhead:  New Harmony Trailhead.  trailhead directions    NF - Anderson Valley Trail #31022.   
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Distance/elevation gain:  11.5 miles out and back.  Trailhead = 5,324'.   Summit = 8,890'.  Cumulative gain = 3,700'.
Difficulty:  moderate - hard Class 1 effort up moderately steep switchbacks; steep bushwhacking/scrambling off-trail the last mile to the summit.
Considerations:  there is no trail, no cairns to mark the final ascent (~ 1 mile), once you get off Anderson Valley Trail:  navigation experience is necessary.  Summit not visible from approach trail.
Maps/Apps:  AllTrails (see notes below), Topo Maps US., St. George/Pine Valley Mountains (National Geographic #715).
Date hiked:  Sept. 2, 2024.
Geology:  Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith - perhaps the largest on Earth - granite monzonite porphyry intrusion 20.5 million years ago.
History:  "New Harmony" comes from Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Joseph Smith translated the Book of Mormon.  The local Mormon settlers thought the name represented the united action they had during periods of trial and hardship.

Quote:  "You talk the talk.  Do you walk the walk?"  -  Animal Mother in the film Full Metal Jacket.
for the geo-curious: geology OF the Pine Valley Laccolith
wildflowers
Related posts
Signal Peak, 10,369'
Burger Peak via Forsyth Canyon
Rim to Rim Training: Kolob Arch
Map of our tracks from New Harmony Trailhead (see link above).
More topo maps at end of this post.

Solitude, cool views of Zion National Park, nice pines and aspens, and unique geology are the rewards you get with this hike to Mount Baldy if you don't mind hiking through a large burn area and can handle some frustrating bushwhacking and deadfall maneuvering.

With this ascent, we conquered one of our "grudge peaks," as we gave this a try in April but faced a thick blanket of snow covering the steep mountainside that the trail traversed.  We should have known when we had to ford a cold, overflowing creek with waterfalls from snow melt at the beginning of the hike.

However, a few days ago, we added another peak - Mount Moriah - to our grudge peak list, so the net number remains the same!

The New Harmony trailhead for Anderson Valley Trail is at a large gravel parking lot with signboards and pit toilet.  
​
This is a less-traveled trail - maybe because most Pine Valley Mountain hikers are on trails leading to Burger and Signal Peaks, 10,000-footers to the southwest looking over Mount Baldy's summit.  The approach to the saddle/ridge is bare of trees and faces east, so there's minimal shade in the morning.

The human-caused 2018 West Valley fire left a lot of charred tree skeletons.  The last mile of bushwhacking/navigating is crawling over/hiking around lots of large pine deadfall.
Hike Summary
0 - 3.2  miles (5,324' - 7,000'):  Anderson Valley Trailhead to saddle on Baldy's north ridge.

3.2 - 4.7 miles (7,000' - 8,175'):  Saddle to turn-off from Anderson Valley Trail.
4.7 - 5.8 miles (8,175' - 8,890'):   Cross-country to summit.
The first mile is flat, crosses over a few streams via wooden bridges, goes through private land with two gates.  At the wilderness boundary, the trail begins to climb up shrubby switchbacks with loose rocks.

Reach the saddle on ridge heading due south to Mount Baldy.  The trail is overgrown in a lot of places, but still discernible.  Great views of Zion to the east.  Anderson Valley Trail then traverses the west side of this ridge with great views of Main Canyon draining from the heights of Pine Valley Mountains.  This creek was roaring with waterfalls in April.  Aspens appear at 7,500 feet as the trail climbs past two water troughs and then up to the turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail.

Next time we hike this we would turn left to leave the trail right after what I call "the obelisk," a solitary rock pinnacle (see photo below) next to the trail to begin the cross-country navigation southeast toward Mount Baldy.  The AllTrails track for this hike goes further on Anderson Valley Trail and ends up unnecessarily mounting a steep and rocky ridge which you have to climb down anyway, so it's wasted effort.  This turn-off is ~ 4.7 miles in from the trailhead.  As with many other times climbing an off-trail peak, you find a more efficient track to and from the summit on the descent.

Now it's a steep climb (700 feet in one mile) through brush and over deadfall to the summit.  We made our way over a ridge just to the north of Baldy, then back down and up again to a saddle just north of Baldy.  From there, climb south to Baldy's summit.

I couldn't find a register or survey marker on the summit, but the views of the sheer orange cliffs of Zion's Kolob Canyons to the east was a contrast to this green and gray mountain.  Signal Peak, the highest in the Pine Valley Mountains loomed over us to the southwest.  There's a lot of Mount Baldys in the U.S. and now we can say we've climbed our local one!

This northern end of the Pine Valley Mountains with its trails and peaks deserves more exploring.  
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Trailhead to saddle/ridge (0 - 3.2 miles)
Snow melt in the first mile when we attempted this hike in April
highly eroded rock on trail and snow in April
Some shade the first mile; Mount Baldy ahead.
Saddle on left; entering Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness
Switchbacks to ridge above
Last switchback to ridge; take a left at the saddle.
At saddle/ridge looking behind at New Harmony: gain of 1,700' so far.
Break at ridge: Cheryl's cookies!!
Saddle to turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail (3.2 - ~4.7 miles)
Heading south on Anderson Valley Trail.
Heading on ridge to the mountainside on the right.
Anderson Valley Trail leads to high meadows and intersects with Summit Trail leading to Signal and Burger Peaks.
We went too far on Anderson Valley Trail to unnecessarily climb this ridge.
Rock pinnacle or "obelisk" marking good place to depart Anderson Valley Trail
Cross-Country to Summit (~4.7 - 5.8 miles)
Looking back at valley and Anderson Valley Trail below burned trees.
Deadfall to hike over/around to ridge above.
heading south toward an open shrubby slope toward saddle just north of Mount Baldy.
From this saddle, head south (right) to the summit.
Looking back while making our way up to the saddle on Baldy's north ridge.
Mount Baldy's summit upper right.
Kolob Canyons section of Zion NP from the summit.
Looking southwest toward Pine Valley Mountain's highest peaks.
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Looking at the west rim of Zion National Park. The last peak on the right with the small "bump" is Mount Kinesava.
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Looking south toward Hurricane, Utah with the Pine Valley Mountains on right horizon.
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Hiking back: Kolob Canyon in Zion to the east.
 
Anderson's buttercup (April)
Mullein
Beavertail Pricklypear cactus (June).
Columbine
 
For the Geocurious:  Geology of the Pine Valley Laccolith
​Geology: 
  • Most of the hike is on eroded Pine Valley Laccolith, perhaps the world's largest, formed by intrusive igneous rocks emplaced into existing rock layers 20.5 million years ago, and has since been exposed.  The rock is a quartz monzonite porphyry, with phenocrysts (large, noticeable crystals) in a groundmass (fine-grained).  
  • Granite vs. quartz monzonite:  granite contains more silica, quartz, sodium and potassium than does quartz monzonite, which contains more hornblende and biotite, and calcium.
  • Quartz content:  Granite = > 20% quartz.  Quartz monzonite = 5-20% quartz.  Monzonite = > 5% quartz.
The Land of the Laccolith
The "unique geology" appears once you've completed the first set of switchbacks to arrive at a saddle on Mount Baldy's northern ridge.  The rest of the hike to the summit is on perhaps the largest laccolith in the world.   The rock is a common igneous intrusive; it's the geomorphology (geo = earth, morphology = form/structure) and the size of this laccolith that make it unique.  Twenty million years ago, magma from a heat source deep within Earth's crust rose up through cracks in the rock until it found a layer with less resistance, causing it to spread horizontally and create a "lake" of molten magma (lakkos = pond or lake, lith = stone).

The molten rock formed a dome underneath the more resistant rock layer above it which prevented the magma from escaping.  The magma cools and forms a laccolith.  Over the millions of years afterward, the overlying rock eroded, exposing the Pine Valley Laccolith.  The heat sources still underlie this area as evidenced by the basaltic lava flows and cones in the area that are less than two million years old.

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Cross-section of the rock units underlying the Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith.
Bottom orange unit = Cambrian (500 Ma).   Blue units = Permian (280 Ma).   Jn unit = Navajo Sandstone - famous cliffs found throughout southern Utah - the main rock of Zion NP (190 Ma.)

Geologic Map of the St. George area
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Our GPS tracks from New Harmony Trailhead (north and top of map) to Mount Baldy (south).
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Our GPS tracks from the saddle/ridge heading south toward Mount Baldy, and overall elevation profile (Caltopo maps). North at top of map.
References
Biek, R.F., et al.  2010.  Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' Quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah.  Map 242DM, Utah Geological Survey.

Miller, R.  2/25/2018.  Our Geological Wonderland:  The Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith.  The Independent.

Utah State University Fire History Tracker.  ​https://fht.wildfirerisk.utah.gov/

Washington County Historical Society.  New Harmony, Utah.
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    About this blog

    Exploration documentaries          –  "explorumentaries"  list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology.  Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.  
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    About the Author
    Sue Birnbaum

    A  trip to Jumbo Rocks Campground in Joshua Tree National Monument 40 years ago sparked my passion for hiking, exploring, and learning about desert ecosystems.  I met my husband Fred on Mt. San Jacinto.  We've explored the American West together; we love this land and I hope to inspire you to get out and explore through my photographs and trip descriptions.
    In 1992, Ray Wilson and I conceived the first Cactus to Clouds hike which climbs over 10,000 feet in one day to the summit of Mt. San Jacinto near Palm Springs, California.
    CACTUS TO CLOUDS HIKE 
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    ABOUT SUE
    Some of my favorite websites:
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    ​Awkward Botany
    ​amateur botany for the phytocurious

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    ​"Intended to encourage people to visit, learn about, and fall in love with the desert."
    ​

    Draw and Shoot
    Beautiful Photography

    Daring Dayhikes
    "Interesting places you can visit with a daypack."  Terrific Tucson and other desert hikes and East Coast, too.


    Earthline: The American West
    Debra "writes to extol our beloved Earth." Detailed hike info, excellently written.
    ​

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    Vermont artist's paintings "inspired by a place based on the land .... drawn to painting the representation and abstraction of nature."

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    MishMoments:  Joy of Photography
    this website is "
    about capturing that special moment in life’s journey and making the most of the time we have."

    Nature's Depths
    Walking through nature with John Palka, a neuroscientist who loves plants and ponders big questions.


    Rangewriter - What Comes Next?
    ​Linda's excellent writing brings to life her interesting adventures, "curiosities and thoughts", post-retirement.

    SeekingLost - Hiking and Backpacking Adventures.

    Stav Is Lost- Unconventional, out-of-the way hikes in the American West.


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    ​Leah Yetter's beautiful "photo journal on life, love, and the spirit of Wyoming."

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© 2017 - 2025 by Sue Birnbaum.  Photos on this website are the sole property of Sue Birnbaum unless otherwise indicated.  Please receive permission before publishing my trip reports and photos.
I try my best to be accurate with my hike descriptions; please research your adventures, always bring a map and compass and know how to read them, be prepared!  All of these hikes can be dangerous; hike at your own risk.  ALWAYS carry the Ten Essentials with you on hikes. 
​Please feel free to contact me with comments or questions, or if you see any errors that need attention.
Thank-you for stopping by!


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