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A Cold Desert:  Winter Images from near St. George, Utah

4/1/2023

4 Comments

 
The unusually cold, snowy 2022-23 winter in southwestern Utah provided opportunities for interesting photographs.
Related posts:
Utah's Red Rock Country
Southern Utah Hikes
​Moving Makes You Feel Better:  The Latest Research
​Experiencing Flow:  The Secret to Happiness
​
My "Neck of the Woods":  Autumn
Picture
Snow Canyon State Park along the Red Sands Trail.
Recently, on March 24, 2023, Utah broke its snowfall record.  The Great Salt Lake's water level rose 2 feet and as a result Utah's "severe drought" status has greatly decreased.   My favorite ski resort, Alta, recorded its most snowfall ever, with 749 inches of the fluffy stuff.  Outside my windows, snow blankets the mountain ranges to the north and west of St George.  For a few seconds the other day, I thought I was in Boise, Idaho, my former domicile with its surrounding winter mountains.  Red and orange sandstone cliffs quickly confirmed that I was in southern Utah.   

The southwestern Utah snowpack basin received the largest increase above normal snowpack - 300% - the highest percentage of all 16 Utah snowpack basins.

St. George long-time residents tell me that this is a "really unusual winter" (with an emphasis on "unusual").   Every week brings days of rain.  Our local reservoir is filled!  Temperatures are 10-15  degrees below normal.  We are now at the end of March, but living in January temperatures.   This has created a unique opportunity for photography.  I've been fortunate to see snow against the warm hues of sandstone, mosses rehydrated to bright green pillows dotting north rock faces and hidden canyon grottos, and, by sticking around places long enough, the beginning of waterfalls during a rainstorm or sun snow melt.


​The "Triple Junction" at St. George, Utah
St. George is a unique place because it's situated right at the intersection of three distinct geographical provinces, or regions that have indicative geology, physiography, botany, and climatic attributes.  This triple junction is a transition zone between the Great Basin desert to the northwest, the Mojave desert to the southwest, and the Colorado Plateau to the east.  St. George's downtown is located in the Mojave desert.  A short drive from downtown St George northwest brings you to Snow Canyon State Park, whose geology is that of the Colorado Plateau province, and one of my favorite places to go wandering with my cameras.

The 6 Keys to Longevity and Mental Health
Hiking and meandering solo with my cameras is a great form of meditation, a time that combines creativity with connection to nature.   I get to  achieve 3 of the 6 keys to longevity and mental health:  exercise, meditation and purpose.  If you're interested in finding a good discussion of mental health and longevity, click on the link above to an article on Roxiva's website.  Walking in nature is a great form of meditation and research has shown that people who live near green spaces tend to live longer, have lower rates of illness, and better mental health.  Getting away from stress is fundamental to health, but we need to have ways to find stillness and silence ourselves, because it won't find us! 

One of my best days this winter included a hike to see the rare waterfalls in Hell Hole, a deep canyon on the boundary of Red Cliffs National Conservation Area (BLM) near Kayenta, a development northwest of St. George, on a very rainy day.  I got to witness the spectacular sight of towering waterfalls spilling down sandstone cliffs, and the downstream wash, churning with salmon-colored water.  It was a sight I will never forget, and as I stood there alone, it started pouring.  Deep in the canyon, close to the orange walls and cascading water, I watched as more waterfalls developed and spilled in ever increasing amounts, elevating the roar of the falls and the creek.  It was a gift to see nature change so quickly and beautifully in solitude.

It's time to move on to warmer and sunnier days.  At least one bonus besides replenishing our reservoirs:  the wildflower show should be spectacular!

​ When I'm out making images, I remember a few of my favorite quotes:
"As long as you are making images, you are living the dream."
​-  Michael Kadillak, photographer and friend who taught me black and white "Zone System" film processing.

"Nature, time, and patience are the three best physicians."

         -  Ann Zwinger  -  The Art of Wandering in The Nearsighted Naturalist
Keep on Exploring!
Picture
Pine Valley Mountains - the largest laccolith in the U.S. - rising above Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, Utah.
A laccolith can be thought of a volcano that never erupted because molten magma was injected between layers of sedimentary rock.  The pressure of the magma pushed the layers into a dome.  The layers overlying the magma have since eroded away, exposing the laccolith.
(this photo was taken last winter).

Picture
Hell Hole at the head of Kayenta Wash.
The waterfall on the right began while I was there in a rain storm.
Picture
Snow Canyon State Park
Picture
Red Cliffs National Conservation Area
Looking over basalt flows south of Snow Canyon State Park.

Picture
One of the smaller, scrub oak-filled side canyons in Snow Canyon State Park.
Picture
Along the Hidden Pinyon Trail in Snow Canyon State Park.
Picture
One of my favorite chollas on the Red Sands Trail in Snow Canyon State Park.
Picture
The same cholla as above in late spring.
Picture
Picture
Approaching storm near Johnson Canyon in Snow Canyon State Park.
Picture
Early season hike up Red Mountain with Dan and Fred to an overlook of Snow Canyon SP and Pine Valley Mountains on the horizon.
Picture
Three types of rock:  basalt flow, Kayenta sandstone, and the sandstone and limestone of the snow-covered Beaver Dam Mountains.
Picture
Hell Hole - these waterfalls appear only with a lot of rain or snow on top of the walls that melts.  Much more rain this season afforded more opportunities than usual to see this beautiful sight.
Picture
Scouts Cave overlooking St. George, Utah and the Beaver Dam Mountains.
Picture
Picture
Snow Canyon State Park
The oldest sedimentary rocks of Snow Canyon SP are the stream deposits of the Kayenta Formation (190 million years ago).
The famous Navajo Sandstone layer was deposited over the Kayenta (183 million years ago) and are the most impressive orange, red and white cliffs as you ascend in the park.  The Navajo sandstone is also the prominent layer seen in Zion National Park.

Picture
Picture
Rains left pools and bright green hydrated moss mats.
Picture
Another storm coming!  Gila Trail, Snow Canyon.
Picture
A large pool of water and bright green moss at this grotto hidden behind immense sandstone walls.
Picture
Walking into Hell Hole.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Engelmann's hedgehog cactus
Picture
Walking out of Hell Hole:  three waterfalls.
Picture
Whiterocks amphitheater, Snow Canyon SP
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Whiterocks amphitheater
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Snow Canyon State Park
This hidden pool extended between two towering walls with dripping water 
​It sounded so peaceful!
Picture
Three rock types:  Navajo Sandstone, basalt flow, and snow-covered Pine Valley Mountain's monzonite porphyry (granite with large crystals) that formed as a result of slow cooling underground.
Picture
Red Mountain from our front yard.
Picture
Sunrise on Beaver Dam Mountains - from our back yard.
References
The Triple Junction of Southern Utah.  a You Tube video from BackRoadsWest1.
4 Comments
Maria Keezer
4/1/2023 07:02:21 pm

Amazing photos SueBee...

Reply
Sue Birnbaum link
4/3/2023 11:29:39 am

Thanks Maria! I sure am having fun "meandering" as you would put it. Life is good - got my Fred, my camera, and my hiking!! Always remember our hikes together in the Coachella Valley...

Reply
Linda Paul link
4/2/2023 07:21:38 am

It has been an amazing year in so many places this year. It will be lovely to see our reservoirs revived by all this snowpack.

That horse looks like it's had quite enough solitude. "Pet me! Talk to me! I'm going nuts."

It must be wonderful to be present for the formation of a waterfall. Thanks for sharing these wonderful images. I think my favorites are Along the Hidden Pinyon Trail and Snow Canyon State Park. I like your explanation of a laccolith. Happy hiking; keep up the good work.

Reply
Sue Birnbaum link
4/3/2023 11:35:06 am

Linda, thanks so much for your comments! The horse was so friendly - he stuck his face in mine literally but not having experience with horses, (like you do!) I wasn't sure if I should pet him. He was awesome.

I appreciate your encouragement - sometimes I wonder why I do this but comments like yours keep me going and plus I like to make these posts - it also helps me learn stuff about geology, ecology, history, etc. So, I'll keep plugging along.......

Reply



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    Exploration documentaries          –  "explorumentaries"  list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology.  Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.  
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    A  trip to Jumbo Rocks Campground in Joshua Tree National Monument 40 years ago sparked my passion for hiking, exploring, and learning about desert ecosystems.  I met my husband Fred on Mt. San Jacinto.  We've explored the American West together; we love this land and I hope to inspire you to get out and explore through my photographs and trip descriptions.
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© 2017 - 2025 by Sue Birnbaum.  Photos on this website are the sole property of Sue Birnbaum unless otherwise indicated.  Please receive permission before publishing my trip reports and photos.
I try my best to be accurate with my hike descriptions; please research your adventures, always bring a map and compass and know how to read them, be prepared!  All of these hikes can be dangerous; hike at your own risk.  ALWAYS carry the Ten Essentials with you on hikes. 
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