Described as "one of the most dangerous hikes in the country", and also "deadly", the hike to the precarious perch known as Angels Landing is in high demand.   It looks impossible to climb, but it turns out that it isn't:  200,000 Angels Landing permits were issued in 2022, according to Zion National Park Service's website.  As many as 1,000 hikers/day make the chained journey on worn sandstone to one of the most coveted and iconic views in the country -  a 360-degree view of Zion Canyon.

​Actually, this hike is not as scary as it looks.

The first time I hiked Angels Landing was 30 years ago, on a trip with the Coachella Valley Hiking Club.  It held a certain mystique and peril among my fellow hikers.  Back then, the chains that you hold onto for balance on the dizzying heights were thinner and it seems like there were less of them.  I've hiked it a few more times since then, and hinted that it was not for those afraid of heights in a post I wrote a few years back:  Angels Landing:  Not for the Faint of Heart.
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Two years ago my sister from Omaha, Nebraska gave Angels Landing a try.  She, Fred and I set out to conquer this beast.  Just about everyone who arrives at Scout Lookout to gaze upon this narrow fin of sandstone towering 1,500 feet over Zion Canyon floor has to wonder how the heck they'll get to the top.   Not having any experience with this kind of hiking, she made commendable progress to Angel's base, where the first drop-offs and slick rock test your resolve, but when we got to the vertical climb, the intimidating precipice got the best of Jen, so we didn't summit.  Back in Omaha, she vowed that one day soon she would conquer Angels Landing.

So she did.  Pretty easily, I might add, with my brother-in-law Ray, coaching her from behind, and Fred leading the way.  Our permits through recreation.gov allowed us to be at the permit checkpoint by 9:00 am.  This July morning was perfect - just the right temperature and no clouds.  By the time we descended, however, the trail was getting too crowded; but patience, good spirits and comradery worked well  to get everyone up and down safely.  Almost like a celebration.

Now, I'm not surprised my sister made it this time.  She's a conquerer, a goal-setter and achiever, not a person to sidestep challenges.   Just do it.  This was the best Angels Landing hike by far.  I wouldn't have predicted, thirty years ago, when I was a beginning hiker, that I would be experiencing this with my sis and bro-in-law.  But I did, and that is awesome!  Years go by so fast and most things in life are unpredictable.

Another "conquer" of sorts was when she and I finished a Spartan Sprint challenge in Boise a few years ago (we've got photos on my Fit After 50 page).
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As a bonus, we saw what I believe to be a California condor.  It was a big black hulk of feathers with a small head, perched on gnarled pine tree branches on the summit.  This one appeared to be a juvenile because of its black head - adults have a vibrant pink and orange-colored head.  The photo below shows that condors have thick pointed ruff feathers that they raise to warm their necks in cold temperatures.  The number of California condors plummeted to only 22 by the 1980's.  In 1967, they were listed as an endangered species.  Captive breeding has helped increase their numbers.

We were pretty lucky to get our Angels Landing permits - apparently only 43% of applications are awarded.  The lottery system to apply for permits began in 2022.  As a great add-on to this already stellar experience, I recommend continuing to hike up the West Rim Trail past Scout Lookout; the views, in my opinion, are even more spectacular as you climb higher.

References
​California Condors.  National Park Service website.

One of the characteristics I look forward to with Tucson hiking is the wide flora variety and diversity.  Along this 2,500-foot gain, Esperero Trail passes through three biomes, or habitats identified by their dominant life forms:  Sonoran desert scrub, desert grassland, and Madrean evergreen woodland.  The most obvious change happens after the steep climb to Cardiac Gap, at 4,400 feet, when saguaros and creosote have given way to oaks and grass.

We arrived at Esperero Canyon's Bridalveil Falls after six miles of warm hiking and enjoyed the cold water dripping and spraying off the rocks.  The falls must look like a veil during run-off after a storm, but at the end of April, they were reduced to small rivulets.  The canyon here is wildly picturesque with huge rounded and dike-streaked boulders, pinyon pines and oaks, wildflowers and towering rock formations above.  Yuccas are interspersed among junipers.  If you keep climbing up-canyon, in another mile, you reach Cathedral Rock Trail, which heads northeast.  Esperero Trail continues west toward Window Peak.

Heading up toward Cardiac Gap.