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Hike to the top of a collapsed stratovolcano in Arizona's alpine tundra for a view of the Grand Canyon (on a clear day).
On top of Arizona: a spectacular look toward the east at the Inner Basin sculpted by San Francisco Mountain avalanche that occurred as a result of caldera collapse, and the San Francisco Volcanic Field in the distance.
Sue and Fred on top of Humphreys Peak among rocks that are the remains of a huge stratovolcano caused by Great Basin stretching that brought mantle rock higher to the surface.
Trip Stats via Snowbowl Trailhead
Location: Coconino National Forest - Kachina Peaks Wilderness - San Francisco Mountains, Flagstaff, northern Arizona. Distance/Elevation gain: 4.8 miles from parking lot (9,266') to Humphreys summit (12,633') = 3,367' gain (9.6 miles out and back). Trailhead: From Flagstaff drive north on US 180 for 7 miles to FR 516, the Snowbowl Road. Drive 7.4 miles on this paved road to the lower parking lot of the Snowbowl facility. The trailhead is located at the north end of the parking lot. Forest Service info: Humphreys Trail #151) Factors that make this hike more difficult: high altitude. Date Hiked: October 7, 2024. Prominence: 6,039'. Maps/Apps: Humphreys Peak Quad topo map, AllTrails. Interactive Caltopo map of the San Francisco Peaks and Flagstaff Area. with our GPS tracks. Considerations and links: Mountain Weather Forecast - Humphreys Peak. Flagstaff Rangers District. Geology: Humphreys is the highest of the San Francisco Peaks (Agassiz and Aubineau are two others), of a much taller San Francisco Mountain, which was a large stratovolcano composed of layers of lava, cinders, pumice and ash that erupted over 900,000 - 400,000 years ago. After this, the top and northeast side of this stratovolcano collapsed in a gigantic avalanche that flowed out toward the northeast. Stratovolcanoes are steep because the extruding lava is high in silica (geology term is felsic - quartz and feldspar forming) and therefore has higher viscosity, so it solidifies more quickly, creating a steep profile.
Related Posts in Arizona
The remnants of a much higher stratovolcano, Humphreys Peak stands higher than any other summit in Arizona, with an additional advantage of having the second-highest prominence. Prominence is a measure of the difference in elevation between the summit and the lowest point along the ridge that connects the mountain to a higher mountain (from surgent.net). Both Fred and I hiked this this summit 30 years ago, separately. The aspect I remember most, aside from the false summit, was the view of the Grand Canyon to the north. This time it was a bit too hazy to see the Grand Canyon, but I could see the Painted Desert in the distance. As with other summits, Humphreys has a couple of "false summits". In fact, on our way down, a guy hiking up was grumbling about the false summit he was on and that the trail was a bit hard to follow occasionally. But we knew what to expect this time: the first summit you see is not Humphreys; it's hiding behind it. The altitude is the most limiting factor of this hike, especially if you are coming from a lower elevation.
Our Hike
Trailhead to forest switchbacks (0 - 1.0 mile, 9,266' - 9,940') Forest switchbacks to saddle on Humphreys' south ridge (1.0 - 3.8 miles, 11,780') Ridge to Point 12, 297 (3.8 - 4.2 miles, 12,297') Point 12,297' to summit (4.2 - 4.8 miles, 12,633')
The Arizona Gondola of the Arizona Snowbowl Ski Resort is visible across the valley to the south as the trail progresses up to Humphreys' south ridge and a spectacular view to the east. Here, and the rest of the way to the summit, you see different views of the massive avalanche topography that occurred hundreds of thousands of years ago when the eastern flank of San Fransisco Mountain collapsed, leaving six peaks lining the ridge above it.
Agassiz Peak is one of them, a large peak to the right (south), and from what I read of other trip posts, illegal to climb unless there's snow to cover a federally-listed threatened plant, the San Francisco Peaks groundsel. It grows only in the alpine tundra of the San Francisco Peaks at 11,000 - 12,400' elevation. It thrives in the volcanic rock talus on Humphreys and Agassiz Peaks. We did see one sign - "Hiking off trail prohibited - $500 fine" at the ridge. At the saddle on the ridge, the Weatherford Trail heads southeast towards Agassiz, Fremont and Doyle Peaks that line this huge avalanche chute, which is referred to as the "Inner Basin." It looks so tempting to go back and summit these mountains, but for Agassiz it would have to be with snow cover. Now it's just a matter of hiking through a steep volcanic talus slope, arriving at a "false summit" before you actually get to Humphreys, another 0.5 miles, straddling the ridge with the inner basin to the east and cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field to the west. We got to spend more summit time than usual because of the great weather: sunny, pleasant and no winds! A jubilant group arrived with one South Carolina couple that had Humphreys on their peak list. We made a hasty retreat down the trail in anticipation of our celebratory beer. We walked around a vibrant Flagstaff downtown, after leaving our car at the hotel. Afterward, we met our Uber driver in front of an impressive climbing gym.
For the Geo-Curious: San Francisco Volcanic Field
Humphreys Peak sits in the middle of Northern Arizona's San Francisco Volcanic Field, which covers about 1,800 square miles. Around 600 volcanoes were produced in this field starting 6 million years ago. Many of the mountains between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon represent this field. These eruptions "migrated" west to east, meaning the eastern eruptions were the youngest. What better place, besides a helicopter or plane, to see a lot of these volcanoes than the summit of Humphreys? Volcanism is usually associated with tectonic plate boundaries, like with Mount St. Helens or Mount Rainier or Kilauea in Hawaii. This volcanic field occurs on the border of the Colorado Plateau and the actively stretching (extensional) Great Basin and Range Province. Stretching causes a thinning of the Earth's crust, which in turn brings warm mantle rock closer to the surface. The resultant depressurization and increased heat of this rock was the impetus for the San Francisco Volcanic Field and its many volcanoes. Volcanic rock color gives a clue as to what type it is. The more silica it contains, the lighter and thicker (more viscosity) it is. Basalt is black and has the lowest amount of silica, with larger amounts of iron and magnesium, and is the most prominent rock making up the San Francisco Volcanic Field's volcanoes. Andesite, a dark grey rock, has an intermediate silica amount, and is the prominent rock of Humphreys and Aggasiz Peaks. Light grey rhyolite is the most silica-rich rock and therefore is more viscous.
Picture Canyon and the Northern Sinagua Petroglyphs
Long before Flagstaff's vibrant downtown, the Sinagua (sin = without, agua = water) people inhabited northern Arizona between 500 - 1450 AD. They were hunters and gatherers with some agricultural practices. We stopped by Picture Canyon Natural and Cultural Preserve in Flagstaff to find the Northern Sinagua petroglyphs, one of which is a waterbird. We found this cluster of petroglyphs on basalt boulders along the Tom Moody Trail, next to Rio de Flag, a permanent stream, where perhaps the Sinagua saw cranes or herons. The "zig-zag" petroglyph may represent lightning, water, or mountains. Check out photos of these petroglyphs at the end of this post. A 1.5-mile section of the Arizona Trail treks through this preserve.
More to Explore
As usual, with each hike we do, we find more to do, more places to explore. We're in our early 60's, gratefully healthy, and trying to get as many summits and expeditions in as possible before we can't. We've lost a little speed, joints hurt a little more from our earlier hiking days, but we still take advantage of our good health and keep challenging ourselves. Life is short - get out there (put the phone away) for mind, body and spirit!
From the Snowbowl trailhead, hike up this ski slope and then enter the forest. Humphreys summit is in the shadow.
Switchbacks through a beautiful forest to saddle on ridge.
Reach Humphreys' south ridge at 3.8 miles and 11,780'. Looking toward the east at the "Inner Basin" created by a massive avalanche. Humphreys Peak trail traverses along ridgeline upper left. The green peaks lower center may be Aubineau and Rees on the northern-most rim of the Inner Basin.
Intersection at saddle. A glimpse of the top of Arizona Snowbowl's gondola just above the bottom sign. No hiking off-trail probably due to protection for the threatened San Francisco Peaks groundsel.
On the ridge headed up to Point 12,297', the second "bump" from the left.
Heading north up the ridge from the saddle. Trail markers are made of old branch signs. Also a warning sign to stay on the trail.
Looking back at Agassiz Peak on the left and Arizona Snowbowl Ski Area in valley to the right.
Approaching Humphreys' summit.
Humphreys' summit!!
Someone made two rock lounge chairs on the summit.
Heading back: Agassiz Peak on the left.
Looking west toward Kendrick Peak (my best guess after looking at maps of the San Francisco Volcanic Field map).
Map of San Francisco Volcanic Field from Aperiodic Wanderings
Humphreys Peak is the largest in the center with its horseshoe-shaped Inner Basin on the east side sculpted by a giant avalanche from a caldera collapse. 
Off the saddle and into the forest on the way back down.
Our GPX tracks on Google Earth.
Caltopo map of our tracks (in pink) going through switchbacks and along ridge to Humphreys summit.
This map includes all six of the peaks surrounding the "Inner Basin." Profile of Humphrey ascent from 9,266' to 12,629' in 4.8 miles.
Interactive Caltopo map of the San Francisco Peaks and Flagstaff Area with our GPS tracks.
Northern Sinagua petroglyphs. Note the waterbird (first photo) in lower center, partially shaded.
Sources
Atlas Obscura. Picture Canyon. Wade, B. (from Arizona Snowbowl website). San Francisco Peaks Geology. Cook, T., Abbott, L. 2017. Travels in Geology: Cones and Craters in Flagstaff, Arizona. From website Earth. USGS. San Francisco Volcanic Field. The University of Arizona: Arizona Geological Survey. San Francisco Peaks Inner Basin.
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A discovery of Glen Canyon Style 4 and 5 petroglyphs along the Escalante River in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.  Part of a large petroglyph panel along Escalante River near Neon Canyon illustrating images of differing styles and age.
The petroglyph that caught my eye is the figure standing with small arms relative to its long trapezoidal body, wearing what might be a headdress - maybe a shaman? Or a chief? I went to the library, perused the internet to learn more of who might have made it and when. It appears to match the characteristics of Glen Canyon Style 5, the earliest style (pre-1050 A.D.) made by Basketmaker and Pueblo I cultures in the Glen Canyon region. Glen Canyon Linear Style This petroglyph style was identified by Turner in 1963 when he spent three years documenting various petroglyphs in the Glen Canyon region, which is supplied by the Colorado and San Juan Rivers. What he called "Style 5," was switched to the term "Glen Canyon Linear Style" by another rock art expert, Polly Schaafsma. The Escalante River, where this panel is found, drains into the Colorado River just north of Glen Canyon. Elaborate headdresses, rectilinear forms, and small arms and legs pecked with a single line are characteristic of Style 5, or Linear Style. The cross-hatching present in the lower part of the torso is highly diagnostic for this style, which predated the Anasazi. Vertical and horizontal lines in the interior of the body in quadripeds (usually sheep) is a defining characteristics of Style 5. If you look at the petroglyphs on the panel above, you will see more images diagnostic of Glen Canyon Linear Style: the long wavy line with the knob at the end to represent a snake possibly, as well as zigzags, and plant images. Is it a Shaman? Or Warrior? Or Leader? Or Hero? This figure seems to suggest a person of special significance because it's more elaborately attired than others on this wall. Headdresses like feathers and horns often signified supernatural shamanic power. Warriors are often depicted with shields, weapons (bows, arrows and atlatls) and helmets. However, Schaafsma says that figures with feather headdresses can symbolize chiefs or warriors. Shamans, in many native American cultures, were the link between the physical and spiritual world. They represent a deep connection to the Divine through all things, and the natural force in everything. Shamanism is a primal belief system common to many ancient peoples and predates established religion of today. Shamans would enter the spirit domain via a trance to communicate with spirits for healing, information, so they could heal the mind, body, or soul of their subject. These special people weren't always called "shamans" by native Americans, but mystics, healers, and medicine people instead. Shamanism and the Sensuous A quote from David Abram, an ecophilosopher, from his book The Spell of the Sensuous describes the shaman's role: "The traditional or tribal shaman, ....acts as an intermediary between the human community and the larger ecological field, ensuring that there is an appropriate flow of nourishment, not just from the landscape to the human inhabitants, but from the human community back to the local earth. By his constant rituals, trances, ecstasies, and "journeys," he ensures that the relation between human society and the larger society of beings is balanced and reciprocal, and that the village never takes more from the living land than it returns to it—not just materially but with prayers, propitiations, and praise." For me it's fun to imagine what people looked like while they were pecking these petroglyphs. How long did it take? What did they use? What were they thinking while making them? Were they portraying their idols, just like we do today? What were they trying to communicate? What was their life like? What did they think about life......and death?
Additional petroglyphs on this panel along the Escalante River. The lines drawn inside the figures is diagnostic of Glen Canyon Linear Style, the oldest of the Glen Canyon petroglyphs. Look how high up the wall they are!  In the Glen canyon style, sheep have exceptionally large rectangular bodies with disproportionately small heads and legs. This petroglyph is on the Tempi po-op Trail in Ivins, Utah.   Neon Canyon photos - on the way to Golden Cathedral. This petroglyph panel is near the mouth of this canyon. Hike Golden Cathedral/Neon Canyon via Beeline Trail. Related Posts Sources
Turner II, C. 1963. Petrographs of the Glen Canyon Region: Styles, Chronology, Distribution and Relationships from Basketmaker to Navajo. Schaafsma, P. The Rock Art of Utah. 1971. Schaafsma, P. 1980. Indian Rock Art of the Southwest. School of American Research, Southwest Indian Art Series. Indian Traders. Native American Shamanism. Patterson, Alex. 1992. A Field Guide to Rock Art Symbols of the Greater Southwest. Abram, David. 1996. The Spell of the Sensuous. Vintage Books.
Searching for Prometheus, chasing sunset's light, and finding peace in the remote Great Basin Snake Range.
Stella Lake at sunset under Wheeler Peak (right) and Doso Doyabi (left).
Great Basin National Park
Trip Stats
Location: Snake Range - Great Basin National Park - Eastern Nevada Date visited: Sept. 8-11, 2024. Photo advice: Stella Lake is great for sunset shots, as Wheeler Peak and Doso Doyabi are bathed in orange light that reflects into the lake; late afternoon/early evening light was good at the bristlecone pine grove. Links: Stargazer Inn and Bristlecone General Store Great Basin NP Directions to Mount Moriah Big Canyon Trailhead - Willhite Web.com (trail map at end of this post). Mount Moriah Big Canyon Trailhead: 39.301432 -114.211424 Hike to Wheeler Bristlecone Grove: 2.8 miles total out and back from the end of Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive at Wheeler Peak Campground. Fun Fact: The Prometheus tree, a Great Basin Bristlecone pine, once recorded as the oldest tree in the world (4700-5000 years old) is located in the Wheeler Bristlecone Grove in Great Basin National Park. Quote: "Now he walks in quiet solitude, the forest and the streams Seeking grace in every step he takes His sight has turned inside himself to try and understand The serenity of a clear blue mountain lake." - John Denver, from his song Rocky Mountain High
Related Posts
Mount Moriah
Other adventures in Baker's backyard include summiting Mount Moriah, in the northern Snake Range, north of Great Basin National Park. This summit includes "the table" reached just below, a worthy destination all its own. Our plan to summit this mountain failed when we parked too far away from Big Canyon Trailhead, the highest on Moriah's western side, after a very slow (5 mph) drive up a grueling and long rocky access road, doubling our planned hiking distance. We didn't have it in us to do it this time. Instead, we made it to a 10,000-foot summit nearby with a register in a glass jar and some bristlecone pines. Mount Moriah will have to be a "grudge" peak for now. We will probably access it from an eastern trailhead. (Trail map to summit at end of this post). Bristlecones! ♡ is an entry in the register that prompted me to explore more of this ridgeline, and indeed I did find some bristleccone pines a few hundred yards away, sadly dead or nearly dead. I can't help but wonder what these stalwart trees witnessed over the possibly hundreds and maybe even thousands of years of their lives.
Hike toward Mount Moriah from NF Road 469.
Bristlecone pine or Limber pine? I think bristlecone. Near Mount Moriah Wilderness at 10,000 feet.
From the truck: driving back down to Spring Valley, looking at the Schell Creek Range on the other side.
Nevada, the heart of the Great Basin, is significant for its many parallel mountain ranges as a result of extension of the Earth's crust. Note the sun shining on the light-colored silt and clay playa, an ancient lake filled during Pleistocene times.
Ward Charcoal Ovens
The Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park near Ely and to the northwest of Baker features an essential process of remote silver ore mining in the American West. It's a popular place to do night photography. Located in the Egan Range, these ovens, or kilns, were used in the late 1800's to make charcoal, an efficient fuel used in smelters to extract the minerals from silver ore. Normal supply lines couldn't reach these remote areas, so the kilns burned local trees to make the charcoal. The image below was made by Mish. 
Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park.
photo by Mish (Mike Shedlock) - mishmoments.com Comment from Mish: “I used small, thin, Lume Cubes to light the inside of the kilns. The Milky Way was taken separately at Great Basin but is in the correct spot. The kilns are a panoramic blend of 8 overlapping images with only 4 of 6 kilns used in the final composite.” “I like blue hour blends. That is the hour after sunset or the hour before sunrise. Working with multiple sets of images improves the ability to capture details and reduce noise. There is a period of about 20 minutes in the middle of the blue hour where ambient light and light from Lume Cubes roughly match intensity. The resultant image is a whopping 656 megabytes.” Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove: Prometheus - the oldest tree on Earth Fred and I searched for Prometheus, the oldest-known non-clonal organism on Earth, estimated to be 4,900 years old when it was cut down by a researcher in 1964. It's in the Wheeler Peak Bristlecone Grove, but we didn't find the stump. Its scientific name - Pinus longaeva - literally means "ancient aged." Bristlecones flourish where many species cannot, in limestone rocks and soil; this reduces their chance of burning by forest fire. The Wheeler Peak grove is unusual in that it grows in quartzite boulders on a glacial moraine. The top of Wheeler Peak is quartzite, a metamorphic sandstone. Prometheus, in Greek mythology means "forethought"; he was a god of fire. Actually, myth has it that Prometheus stole fire from gods and gave it to humans to advance civilization. The bristlecone's dramatic, jagged and twisted appearance reflects its endurance in harsh conditions. High winds twist them, cold temperatures contribute to slow tree ring growth, creating a protective, dense wood that resists insects and rot. These majestic trees have been around during the fall of civilizations and the creation of America, survived through catastrophic volcanism. Two other bristlecone groves in Great Basin State Park are the Mount Washington and Eagle Peak groves. Our Photo Expedition The challenge Mish and I had on this day was to find the right light conditions for photographing these bristlecones and then make sure we got to Stella Lake in time for optimal sunset shots. Lucky for us, the wind blew away smoke from wildfires, storm clouds came in to reveal perfect illumination for photography. After photographing the bristlecones in late afternoon, we took the long way to Stella Lake afterwards risking missing optimal sunset light on the lake. We realized afterward that there's a quicker way to get to Stella Lake from Teresa Lake, next to the bristlecone grove. We set up our tripods and began shooting just in time as the light grew more and more intense on Wheeler and Doso Doyabi and in the lake's reflection. The clouds were perfect! One of the extraordinary things about photographing nature is the few magic seconds when you capture a scene not usually witnessed by humans. The fast-changing light of a sunset makes you realize how quickly time passes. Mountains stay the same for eons and a bristlecone pine would barely change during our lifetimes, but light can change quickly. After all, it's the various degrees of light we are capturing with our cameras, as "photograph" means "writing with light." 
Bristlecones from Wheeler Peak Grove and Forest Road 469 en route to Mount Moriah's Big Canyon Trailhead.
Identifying features of a bristlecone pine: one-inch-long needles in packets of five that grow in tufts, and cones with scales that are tipped with a claw-like bristle.
Bristlecones under Wheeler Peak
Stella Lake with Doso Doyabi illuminated above.
The name comes from Shoshone language meaning "white peak." 
FUN-ky Baker
Baker, Nevada scenes on a very smoky day due to distant wildfires. The smoke actually made good lighting conditions for photography but bad conditions for breathing!
"Museum of the Future Coming Soon" on an old cabin with photos below: something to look forward to ;)
Abandoned cabin in "downtown" Baker.
Topo map of hike (yellow) from Big Canyon Trailhead to Mount Moriah summit.
Walk on one of Earth's largest laccoliths in a quiet part of the Pine Valley Mountains near St. George, Utah.
View of Zion National Park's Kolob Canyons from Mount Baldy's summit
Distance/elevation gain: 11.5 miles out and back. Trailhead = 5,324'. Summit = 8,890'. Cumulative gain = 3,700'.
Difficulty: moderate - hard Class 1 effort up moderately steep switchbacks; steep bushwhacking/scrambling off-trail the last mile to the summit. Considerations: there is no trail, no cairns to mark the final ascent (~ 1 mile), once you get off Anderson Valley Trail: navigation experience is necessary. Summit not visible from approach trail. Maps/Apps: AllTrails (see notes below), Topo Maps US., St. George/Pine Valley Mountains (National Geographic #715), USGS 7.5 min topo map New Harmony quad. Date hiked: Sept. 2, 2024. Geology: Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith - perhaps the largest on Earth - granite monzonite porphyry intrusion 20.5 million years ago. History: "New Harmony" comes from Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Joseph Smith translated the Book of Mormon. The local Mormon settlers thought the name represented the united action they had during periods of trial and hardship. Quote: "You talk the talk. Do you walk the walk?" - Animal Mother in the film Full Metal Jacket.
Related posts
Map of our tracks from New Harmony Trailhead (see link above).
More topo maps at end of this post. Solitude, cool views of Zion National Park, nice pines and aspens, and unique geology are the rewards you get with this hike to Mount Baldy if you don't mind hiking through a large burn area and can handle some frustrating bushwhacking and deadfall maneuvering. With this ascent, we conquered one of our "grudge peaks," as we gave this a try in April but faced a thick blanket of snow covering the steep mountainside that the trail traversed. We should have known when we had to ford a cold, overflowing creek with waterfalls from snow melt at the beginning of the hike. However, a few days ago, we added another peak - Mount Moriah - to our grudge peak list, so the net number remains the same! The New Harmony trailhead for Anderson Valley Trail is at a large gravel parking lot with signboards and pit toilet. This is a less-traveled trail - maybe because most Pine Valley Mountain hikers are on trails leading to Burger and Signal Peaks, 10,000-footers to the southwest looking over Mount Baldy's summit. The approach to the saddle/ridge is bare of trees and faces east, so there's minimal shade in the morning. The human-caused 2018 West Valley fire left a lot of charred tree skeletons. The last mile of bushwhacking/navigating is crawling over/hiking around lots of large pine deadfall.
Hike Summary
0 - 3.2 miles (5,324' - 7,000'): Anderson Valley Trailhead to saddle on Baldy's north ridge. 3.2 - 4.7 miles (7,000' - 8,175'): Saddle to turn-off from Anderson Valley Trail. 4.7 - 5.8 miles (8,175' - 8,890'): Cross-country to summit.
The first mile is flat, crosses over a few streams via wooden bridges, goes through private land with two gates. At the wilderness boundary, the trail begins to climb up shrubby switchbacks with loose rocks.
Reach the saddle on ridge heading due south to Mount Baldy. The trail is overgrown in a lot of places, but still discernible. Great views of Zion to the east. Anderson Valley Trail then traverses the west side of this ridge with great views of Main Canyon draining from the heights of Pine Valley Mountains. This creek was roaring with waterfalls in April. Aspens appear at 7,500 feet as the trail climbs past two water troughs and then up to the turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail. Next time we hike this we would turn left to leave the trail right after what I call "the obelisk," a solitary rock pinnacle (see photo below) next to the trail to begin the cross-country navigation southeast toward Mount Baldy. The AllTrails track for this hike goes further on Anderson Valley Trail and ends up unnecessarily mounting a steep and rocky ridge which you have to climb down anyway, so it's wasted effort. This turn-off is ~ 4.7 miles in from the trailhead. As with many other times climbing an off-trail peak, you find a more efficient track to and from the summit on the descent. Now it's a steep climb (700 feet in one mile) through brush and over deadfall to the summit. We made our way over a ridge just to the north of Baldy, then back down and up again to a saddle just north of Baldy. From there, climb south to Baldy's summit. I couldn't find a register or survey marker on the summit, but the views of the sheer orange cliffs of Zion's Kolob Canyons to the east was a contrast to this green and gray mountain. Signal Peak, the highest in the Pine Valley Mountains loomed over us to the southwest. There's a lot of Mount Baldys in the U.S. and now we can say we've climbed our local one! This northern end of the Pine Valley Mountains with its trails and peaks deserves more exploring.
Trailhead to saddle/ridge (0 - 3.2 miles)
Saddle to turn-off of Anderson Valley Trail (3.2 - ~4.7 miles)
Cross-Country to Summit (~4.7 - 5.8 miles)
Looking at the west rim of Zion National Park. The last peak on the right with the small "bump" is Mount Kinesava.
Looking south toward Hurricane, Utah with the Pine Valley Mountains on right horizon.
Hiking back: Kolob Canyon in Zion to the east.
For the Geocurious: Geology of the Pine Valley Laccolith
Geology:
The Land of the Laccolith
The "unique geology" appears once you've completed the first set of switchbacks to arrive at a saddle on Mount Baldy's northern ridge. The rest of the hike to the summit is on perhaps the largest laccolith in the world. The rock is a common igneous intrusive; it's the geomorphology (geo = earth, morphology = form/structure) and the size of this laccolith that make it unique. Twenty million years ago, magma from a heat source deep within Earth's crust rose up through cracks in the rock until it found a layer with less resistance, causing it to spread horizontally and create a "lake" of molten magma (lakkos = pond or lake, lith = stone). The molten rock formed a dome underneath the more resistant rock layer above it which prevented the magma from escaping. The magma cools and forms a laccolith. Over the millions of years afterward, the overlying rock eroded, exposing the Pine Valley Laccolith. The heat sources still underlie this area as evidenced by the basaltic lava flows and cones in the area that are less than two million years old. 
Cross-section of the rock units underlying the Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith.
Bottom orange unit = Cambrian (500 Ma). Blue units = Permian (280 Ma). Jn unit = Navajo Sandstone - famous cliffs found throughout southern Utah - the main rock of Zion NP (190 Ma.) Geologic Map of the St. George area 
Our GPS tracks from New Harmony Trailhead (north and top of map) to Mount Baldy (south).
Our GPS tracks from the saddle/ridge heading south toward Mount Baldy, and overall elevation profile (Caltopo maps). North at top of map.
References
Biek, R.F., et al. 2010. Geologic Map of the St. George and East Part of the Clover Mountains 30' x 60' Quadrangles, Washington and Iron Counties, Utah. Map 242DM, Utah Geological Survey. Miller, R. 2/25/2018. Our Geological Wonderland: The Pine Valley Mountain Laccolith. The Independent. Utah State University Fire History Tracker. https://fht.wildfirerisk.utah.gov/ Washington County Historical Society. New Harmony, Utah. This breathtaking hike lived up to the fanfare and legend. It's now one of our favorites.  High over Utah: Mount Timpanogos summit with trail below and Timpanogos Saddle entry onto the ridge, North Timpanogos at end of ridge to the left. Trip Stats
Location: Central Utah - Uinta National Forest - Wasatch Range - Timpanogos Wilderness - Timpooneke Trail #053 Distance: 14.3 miles roundtrip. Elevation gain: 4,400'. Trailhead = 7,360'. Summit = 11,749'. Prominence: 5,270 feet - 47th most prominent mountain in the contiguous U.S. Date Hiked: July 22, 2024. Maps and Apps: National Geographic Trails Illustrated Wasatch Front North #709, AllTrails. See our GPS tracks/topo map at end of post. Considerations: The last 2 miles to the summit is exposed; check weather forecast and start early to get off of summit in case of thunderstorms. Mountain Weather Forecast. Forest Service Timpooneke Trail website. Parking permits are required on Fridays, Saturdays and Holidays between July 8 - October 15. Reservations: Recreation.gov. Geology: Mt. Timpanogos resides in Pennsylvanian (300 Ma) Oquirrh Formation - sandstone interbedded with cherty limestone. Chert is a fine-grained silica made of very small mineral particles. It forms as darker layers or nodules in usually lighter-colored limestone. This rock originated in tropical swamp-forests. Indigenous peoples: named after the hunter-gatherer Timpanogos Utes. tumpi = "rocks" and panogos = "water mouth." Quote: "The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir More Peaks over 11,000 feet in Nevada and Utah
Timpanogos Hike Summary - Timpooneke Trail
This awesome hike up the much-loved and revered rock tower known as Mount Timpanogos lived up to the lore and legend. Its final summit approach perches on its steep, rocky sides where you can gaze upon the cities like Provo that sprawl along Utah Lake's eastern shore on one side, and Robert Redford's posh Sundance Resort on the other. I love these small, ultra-high summits where, when I look down thousands of feet below to glaciers and meadows, I get a funny feeling in my stomach. Mountain goats are often seen: a fellow hiker pointed one out on the west side of the mountain below Timpanogos Saddle. Even before we finished this hike, I wanted to go back again. Lush blankets of wildflowers surrounded the trail, especially in Timpanogos Basin on the way up to the saddle between Mt. Timpanogos and Bomber Peak. I was blown away by the sheer numbers of lupine, bistort, columbine and paintbrush. So many bluebells! "Timp," as this mountain is affectionately called by Utahns, is the second-highest mountain in the Wasatch range. Mt. Nebo, 11,933 feet elevation, which we hiked two years ago, is the highest. Both peaks have a huge prominence, a measure of the vertical distance from summit to lowest contour line encircling that mountain with Nebo at 5,489' and Timpanogos at 5,269'.  Mount Timpanogos summit with Timpanogos Basin, Timpanogos glacier and Emerald Lake below.  Our GPS tracks from Timpooneke Trailhead (lower right), ascending up valley under the Giant Staircase (long ridge to the trail's left), climbing ledges up to the first view of Timpanogos summit and Timpanogos Basin, then up to Timpanogos Saddle, then along ridge to summit. Hike in a southward direction to the summit. Utah Lake and Utah Valley at top of image. Woolly Hole is the cirque directly below North Timpanogos and the upper, smaller cirque to the right of Forgotten Peak is Pika cirque. (Caltopo map of our tracks and elevation profile below) When we got to the trailhead parking lot in the dark, at 5 a.m., we saw a lot of vehicles parked and wondered if people were backpacking. It turned out that many students started the hike at 1:00 a.m. to witness the sunrise from the summit. We passed a lot of groups of them descending. Since this was a Monday, we didn't need a parking pass (see link above for recreation.gov permitting). Seems this is a perfect training mountain for the serious trail runner and cross-country athlete. We met a family at the top who run and hike this mountain every year. The fastest known time is 2 hours and 18 minutes round-trip for 14.3 miles and 5,000 cumulative feet of elevation gain! We were passed by a few runners. On the trail at 5 a.m. with headlamps, we hiked the 7 miles to the summit by 9:30, taking our time and having a "second" breakfast break. It was refreshing to be on an actual and well-traveled trail for a change, since we have been doing more scrambling and navigating to peaks. Aspen Grove Trail, another way up to the summit, intersects with Timpooneke Trail as you enter the basin. A metal building topped with a pyramid-shaped roof with hundreds of signatures scrawled on its walls crowns the summit. This summit hut has overlooked the spectacular scenery of snow, glaciers and lakes and mountain goats for almost 100 years. The Timpooneke Trail was completed in 1921. The pointed roof acts as a survey marker that can be seen with a telescope from the valley below. Next time I would drive a little further on Utah State Hwy. 92 to the Aspen Grove Trailhead and hike Timp from the east. There's a snowfield to hike through in Timpanogos Basin that looks really fun. There's more elevation gain with this approach. I have passed by and eyed this imposing peak many times on Interstate 15. Finally I can say we were on the top! I think we'll join the many hikers and runners to make this an annual pilgrimage.
Waterfall video!  Three miles into the hike up the Giant Staircase: the trail continues over these ledges toward left and into above valley.  View of Timpanogos after climbing the Giant Staircase and entering Timpanogos Basin. Rock "hills" in foreground possibly glacial moraines.  Looking across Timpanogos Basin to the Aspen Grove Trail which treks through the snowfield at the base of Timpanogos.  So many wildflowers! The trail from Aspen Grove trailhead approaches through the snow at the base of Timpanogos, left. Timpanogos Saddle is up ahead - the trail climbing it is visible from here.  Nearing the saddle where hikers are standing: trail runner descending. You can see the summit hut, a small point, on Timp's summit.  Once at the saddle, see a breathtaking view of Utah Valley and Utah Lake, continue on the west side of Mount Timpanogos.  The top of Timp, up ahead, left. Summit hut (point on right side) visible.   A little bit of fun scrambling....  Last set of switchbacks with the summit hut visible on the right.  Looking to the north at Timpanogos Basin and Saddle.  From the summit - we were just way down there! Good view of Emerald Lake.  At the summit!  Almost there!  American Bistort A little fun with Oil Paint Filter in Photoshop!   Caltopo Map of our tracks and Elevation Profile. Sources
Baker, A.A. and Crittendon, M.D. GEOLOGY OF THE TIMPANOGOS CAVE QUADRANGLE, Utah. Wright, R. 'Glass House' on Timpanogos. The Daily Herald, July 20, 2003. Trading western summits for eastern maritime and lakefront fun.
For those who love dogs: Sophie is a Red Merle Australian shepherd, known for their intelligence and lively personalities. I was amazed that she can go and get the correct toy almost every time when commanded. "Merle" refers to the coat's patterns; in this case it is "marbled." We hiked the spectacular Mount Lafayette/Mount Lincoln loop in the White Mountains, a route that rises steeply out of Franconia Notch in New Hampshire to look out over the northern peaks of the state, and treks over the Appalachian Trail. It is spectacular! A bonus was the succession of beautiful waterfalls - one after the other - on Falling Waters Trail. From our vantage point on Lake Winnipesaukee we saw simultaneous firework shows from the nearby towns of Wolfeboro and Meredith on the Fourth of July, as boats whizzed back and forth. "Smile of the Great Spirit" and "Beautiful Water in a High Place" are two translations of the indigenous Abenaki peoples' word for Winnipesaukee. There's actually a lot of interpretations for what this word means. I'd never get tired of the beauty of Lake Winnipesaukee at sunset: a few motorboats skimming slowly in the distance and the yellow and orange sky framed by evening clouds. It's so picturesque with wooded shores and lots of islands and coves. Fred and Janet took us on motorboat tours of the lake. I have a suspicion I'll be longing for that exhilarating coolness next time I'm hiking through a hot desert.  Sophie, a Red Merle Australian shepherd on the banks of Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire. "Smart Sophie" is my nickname for this awesome dog!  Cloudland Falls on Falling Waters Trail, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire.
 Creek near Sandwich, New Hampshire. Bath, Maine - Home of the Best Shipbuilders in the World Bath Heritage Days Festival was in full swing when we arrived to this small town, home of Bath Iron Works, a huge shipyard founded in 1884. American flag bunting hung from Bath City Hall, built in 1929. Performers, a ferris wheel, cotton candy, and carnival games lined Kennebec River over which the Sagadahoc Bridge spanned, bringing Highway 1 to Wiscasset. Downtown's picturesque Front Street with its ice cream shop, drugstore and bars brought me back to past Fourth of July celebrations many moons ago. We walked Popham Beach in Phippsburg, Maine, south of Bath, on a foggy day. On a clear day we would have seen Fox and Wood Islands offshore, but the fog made the shore so beautiful and mysterious as two surfers emerged from it, paddling their boards. Wild roses and grasses grew on sand dunes. Two bad storms earlier this year caused major damage to this beach that altered the waterway, eroded 10 feet of dunes and pulled picnic areas out to sea. You wouldn't think Confederate battleships would venture to this seemingly obscure beach on an Atlantic shore with many river outlets, but Popham Beach's significance for war strategy lies in its proximity to Bath and Maine's capital, Augusta. Popham Beach lies at the mouth of the Kennebec River, less than 15 miles from upriver Bath, where it was feared the Confederates would destroy shipbuilding yards if they gained access to the Kennebec River. The imposing Civil War-era Fort Popham was built with 36 cannon casements to defend the Kennebec. It's an impressive structure built from huge local granite blocks forming 30-foot high walls. Inside it feels like a dungeon might - cold, dark and moist. A family with kids climbing up and down granite spiral staircases and kicking around a soccer ball made it feel less intimidating.  Ah - YUM! Our introduction to Bath, Maine - OystHERS Raw Bar and Bubbly along the Kennebec River.  Bath City Hall decorated for the Fourth of July and Bath Heritage Festival. The clock on the left is a Bath landmark. In 1915, the owner of Bath's Hallet's Drug Store, Fred Cox bought it in Boston, when he saw a "for sale" sign on it. In 1964, when the new owners sold the clock to a Harry Crooker, who intended on putting the clock elsewhere, Bath residents created a public outcry. Bath had to maintain the clock as a condition for keeping it.  This is a really cool city! Very friendly people.  General Dynamics Bath Iron Works on the Kennebec River. On July 27, 2024 the guided missile destroyer USS Patrick Gallagher was christened here. Gallagher was an Irish citizen living in Long Island, New York. He enlisted in the US Marines to fight in Vietnam war, where he received a Navy Cross for jumping on a grenade to protect his fellow soldiers. He was able to toss the grenade into a river before it blew up. He was killed in a firefight 6 months later. Popham Beach State Park at the mouth of the Kennebec River on Maine Coast.
 Kicking the ball around in the enormous Civil War era Fort Popham - why not? The Best Lobster Roll The "welcome book" at our excellent Bath Airbnb recommended The Five Islands Lobster Company in Georgetown, Maine. I've had a few lobster rolls in my life, but this one was THE best! This lobster shack is located in the fishing village of Five Islands in the town of Georgetown, south of Bath. The waters there are among the deepest and coldest on Maine's coast, which means really excellent lobsters. I guess we just missed the "blessing of the fleet," a tradition in which the local clergy pray for a safe and bountiful season. Dining is outside on the wharf, looking at beautiful scenery. BYOB. 16 Essential Maine Lobster Rolls - Eater - Maine We are talking about making this an annual trip. So much to explore in New Hampshire and Maine! People are happy and very friendly. Already looking forward to my next lobster roll and White Mountain hike.
 The view from our picnic table at Five Islands Lobster Company. "The prettiest harbor in Maine" is what some call this shore.  Georgetown, Maine wharf. Five Islands Lobster Company is located a few feet away. A few New England signs.  Popham Beach State Park 
Maybe these Bath residents are appreciating summer by bringing out what has been indoors for so many months!?
Captain and mates aboard a cruise in Boothbay Harbor. If the caught lobster's carapace (from rear of eye socket to end of main body shell) is less than 3.25 inches, it must go back into the sea. This conservation helps to safeguard the lobster population.  Ram Island Light Station, just south of Boothbay Harbor, Maine.
Commissioned in 1883. Outstanding hike accessing the spectacular White Mountain's Franconia Ridge and beautiful waterfalls.  On Mount Lafayette's granite at 5,249' with Mount Lincoln behind us on Franconia Ridge. Trip Stats
Location: Northern New Hampshire - White Mountains - Franconia Range. Distance/Elevation Gain: 8.9 miles roundtrip/3,800'. Mount Lafayette = 5,249'. Mount Lincoln = 5,089'. Difficulty: Strenuous Class 1 Maps and Apps: All Trails, National Geographic White Mountain National Forest West Map Date Hiked: July 3, 2024 Trailhead: Bridle Path/Falling Waters Trail on the east side of I-93 in Franconia Notch. Geology: (igneous intrusive rocks)
Useful Links: Appalachian Mountain Club - Greenleaf Hut Mountain Weather Forecast Hike Summary ascending Bridle Path Trail: 0 - 0.2 miles: parking lot at Franconia Notch to intersection of Old Bridle Path and Falling Water Trails 0.2 - 2.9 miles: Old Bridle Path Trail to Greenleaf Hut 2.9 - 4.0 miles: Greenleaf Trail to Mount Lafayette summit 4.0 - 5.7 miles: Mt. Lafayette to Little Haystack Mountain (Franconia Ridge/Appalachian Trail) 5.7 - 8.9 miles: Little Haystack to parking lot via Falling Waters Trail  This guy had just climbed over the steep rocks on Falling Waters Trail to the top of Little Haystack Mountain. The owners assured us he was doing ok! On Top of New Hampshire Again, After 25 Years There's lots of reasons why this New Hampshire loop hike rates a 4.9 out of 5 on AllTrails: beautiful forest, three peaks to summit, a fun ridge (part of the Appalachian Trail) with spectacular views, waterfalls, and just enough challenge. The trailhead is just off I-93. The historic Greenleaf Hut at the base of Mount Lafayette allows you to refuel and replenish your water. We return to our old "stomping grounds" 25 years later - we hiked many summits and trails in the Whites and other ranges back in the late 1990's. We have great memories of hiking in all New England conditions - gorgeous autumns, buggy summers and icy winters. We bought our MSR snowshoes there and continued to use them when we moved to Idaho. Fred proposed to me on Mt. Cardigan, and we were married in Nashua in 1999.
 Trailhead sign at large parking lot in Franconia Notch, just off of I-93.  At the first intersection with Falling Waters Trail and Old Bridle Path - bridge spanning Walker Brook.
 Walking up Old Bridle Trail
Greenleaf Hut finally emerged from the forest. It's full-service season is end of May through mid-October. You can reserve a bed in the unheated bunkhouse and get a full breakfast and dinner and naturalist programs. Another 1.1 mile steep climb brought us to Mount Lafayette's west ridge and the highest elevation for the loop, and also a huge prominence of 3,320 feet. That rivals the west's mountain prominences! These Appalachian Mountains look a lot different than the raw and jagged ranges of the west like the Rockies because they are much older, rounded and eroded. Even though Lafayette is 1,000 feet lower than famous Mt. Washington, New Hampshire's tallest, it still feels like you are on top of the state with spectacular views. On Lafayette's broad summit, hikers lazed in the sun and great weather. The hike along Franconia ridge, part of the Appalachian Trail was glorious. Great to see so much emerald green! We saw the familiar krummholz trees - brought us back to memories of hiking these mountains so many years ago. We had experienced some of the harsh conditions these stunted trees are subjected to on a few hikes - cold winds, snow and ice. By the time we reached our third summit of the day, Little Haystack Mountain at 4,760 feet, we were ready to descend via Falling Waters Trail with no idea the beauty we would see in a few miles. Steep boulders and rocks made the initial straight-down descent slow. As switchbacks appeared, we came upon the soothing sound of Dry Brook which was anything but dry. I see why hikers would prefer to ascend via Falling Waters Trail because you cross and walk in this stream for awhile - the rocks were slippery. Dry Brook descends with a series of beautiful falls. Stunning Cloudland Falls drops down several rock ledges. A light yellow dog named "Lemon" (I wish I would have taken his photo!) needed help from his owner to navigate the slippery rocks. I wished we could re-hike more New Hampshire peaks. I'd choose New Hampshire if I had to live on the east coast, but my heart still lies in America's grand, dramatic and often mysterious southwest.
 First view of Mount Lafayette (far left) and Mount Lincoln (center) on Franconia Ridge.  Approaching Greenleaf Hut with Mount Lafayette rising above it. The hike continues on Franconia Ridge to the right to climb Mount Lincoln. The Greenleaf Hut, built in 1930, is an off-the-grid facility where you can stay in one of the bunkrooms with meals included, is located along the Old Bridle Path.
Greenleaf Hut marks the end of the Old Bridle Path at the intersection of Greenleaf Trail, then climbs 1,000 feet in 1.1 miles to Mount Lafayette summit (above Fred in the photo). Greenleaf Trail begins further north off the I-95 adjacent from the New England Ski Museum.  Getting closer to Lafayette's summit: Cannon Mountain Ski Area in Franconia Notch in the distance.  Getting there!  Mount Lafayette's summit  On Franconia ridge looking northwest at glacier-carved valleys.  Approaching Mount Lincoln - elevation 5,089 feet.  Appalachian Trail/Franconia Ridge approaching Little Haystack Mountain. Mount Liberty and Mount Flume further along the ridge to the left.  Cloudland Falls on the Falling Waters Trail  Bunchberry, or Creeping Dogwood  On the upper portion of Falling Waters Trail. 
  On the Falling Waters Trail. Remote route-finding on Earth's largest landslide to a huge panorama of southern Utah.  Fred on top of Sandy Peak's volcanic rock - 9,537'
Related
Imagining a Natural Catastrophe Still feeling energized after our Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, we decided to maintain our hiking fitness and get out of St. George's heat to hike a remote peak. I often go to Stavislost website to get ideas. Sandy Peak looked like a great opportunity for us to explore more of the forested Markagunt plateau near Cedar City, Utah. The rocks on Sandy's summit are just a microcosm of Earth's largest landslide - covering at least 1,600 square miles of southwestern Utah's high plateaus. It's called the Markagunt gravity slide, a catastrophic event that happened 20 million years ago when the surface of a huge volcanic field collapsed and slid southward for many miles, placing older rock on top of younger rock. "Markagunt Megabreccia" is the name of this rock unit. Breccia refers to jumbled angular rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix, with "mega' referring to fragments that are larger than one meter length. Catastrophic events like volcanic explosions create breccias. "Markagunt" is the Paiute word for "Highland of Trees". It resides in the Colorado plateau province. Cedar Breaks National Park rises from one of its highest points. Our Route: Avoiding the Steep Climb until it got Really Steep We parked just off the Old Spanish National Historic Trail in Upper Bear Valley. Locally, it is a nice graded road out of Paragonah that is also named Forest Road #077, Markagunt Plateau Trail and Bear Valley Road. 0 - 1.3 miles - walk southeast over Bear Creek right after parking, then walk up road (not numbered) that leads around the knoll to the east and drop into Ashton Creek at when it turns to the right (south). 1.3 miles - 2.9 miles - walk up Ashton Creek. 2.9 miles to summit - steep walk up Sandy's west slope, avoiding the top of the long ridge just to the north of the summit. We couldn't see Sandy Peak from the road approach. If I were to do this hike again, I would get out of Ashton Creek sooner and climb the first ridge on the left (east) I could see, which leads easterly to intersect with Sandy's north ridge. In the creek, we saw what looked to be a hunter's path (found a camera on a tree and a salt lick nearby) that led through a nice forest of pines, aspen and meadows, although we had a bit too many mosquitos. Getting on the ridge sooner out of Ashton Creek would have probably meant less bushwhacking. The steep walk to the top on Sandy's western flank was riddled with deadfall, rocks, and vegetation, adding to precarious footing at times. Maneuvering around rough volcanic blocks at the summit was fun. The view was huge. To the north, we saw smoke from a fire just south of the incredible Tushar Mountain range, and to the southeast the orange rocks near Bryce Canyon. This area of the Markagunt Plateau, squeezed up between Parowan Valley to the west, and the Panguitch Valley to the east has lots of trails, mountains, and mountain-bike friendly roads to explore. Gotta get back there! Visions of a Centro Woodfired Pizza got me through the last bit of route finding out of the creek. Per tradition, after hikes in this area, we went to this restaurant in Cedar City. Route-finding, wilderness, amazing view, pretty tough hike (at least for us), great pizza and great beer makes for the perfect day. Life is good!
  Caltopo Map and profile of our GPX tracks. North at top of map.  Google Earth image of our tracks.  Figuring out our route from Ashton Draw southeastward to Sandy Peak.  Road leading southeastward from Old Spanish Trail (FR 077) toward Ashton Creek. This could be driven by a 4 x 4.  Point where road turns right and we dropped down into Ashton Creek, 1.3 miles from where we parked. Sandy Peak not visible, but the long, lighter-colored rise just north of Sandy is poking out between two cone-shaped rises to the right of Fred.  White columbine in Ashton Creek.  Following cow paths in Ashton Creek until we found a wider trail (hunters' ?) that began on the right side of the creek to cross over to the left.  Really nice hike up Ashton Creek, as long as you stay on the trail!  Sandy Peak finally comes into view, but we were on the wrong side of the creek, so we went down and crossed, then went up the steep slope to the saddle just to the left of the peak.  Looked like buck rub on these new aspens to us.  Monument plant growing on slope with Sandy Peak at the top. The last time I saw Monument plant was on Mackay Peak in Idaho.  Yep, it's a steep and rock-filled slope!   Looks like layers of this volcanic mudflow breccia have separated or spalled from larger rock.  Sandy Peak summit looking northward toward the Tushar Mountain range and a fire south of it.   Descending into Ashton Creek, with lots of aspens. We are parked in Upper Bear Valley, at top of photo. Above this valley is Cottonwood Mountain to the west, where there are more trails. The East Bear Valley Fault runs the length of Upper Bear Valley. References
Biek, R.F., et al. Geologic Map of the Panguitch 30' x 60' Quadrangle, Garfield, Iron and Kane Counties, Utah. 2015. Map 270DM - The Utah Geological Society. Hacker, D.B., et.al. Catastrophic emplacement of the gigantic Markagunt gravity slide, southwest Utah (USA): Implications for hazards associated with sector collapse of volcanic fields. 2014. Geology vol. 42 #11. Sweet single track in the Kaibab Plateau's glorious high forest.  Arizona Trail, Kaibab National Forest, Northern Arizona Related Riding instead of Hiking We decided to switch up our usual mode of adventure - hiking - and get on our mountain bikes. After our epic Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day journey a few weeks ago, we noticed the beauty around Jacob Lake and GC's north rim in northern Arizona. Only a few hours drive from St. George, Utah, we got out of the heat to explore the cool, aspen-filled forest on the Kaibab plateau. So many aspens that it reminded me of Colorado high country. We stayed at Kaibab Lodge, five miles from the entrance to the north rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in a spartan "hiker's" cabin, the last place available there. Maybe a rim-to-rim hiker had cancelled at the last minute. The dinner and breakfast buffets were a bit spendy, but then again this is a pretty remote location. The Arizona National Scenic Trail links Mexico to Utah through 800 miles of prime Arizona deserts, mountains, and canyons. It's divided into 43 sections, or "passages." At the Mexico border, it begins in the Huachuca Mountains, trekking through grasslands to gain 3,000 feet to a ponderosa pine forest. The final passage is through Buckskin Mountain to the Utah border, where you can see the Vermillion Cliffs. It's open to hikers, mountain bikers and equestrians. We rode a gorgeous section of this trail through pristine forest and meadows in the Kaibab National Forest on a splendid single track to a viewpoint of the east rim of the Grand Canyon, making a loop by riding back on perfect gravel roads. No other vehicles - we had it to ourselves. The day before this, we just picked gravel roads to explore and ended up at an old cabin, possibly a line shack for ranchers. Our friend Jeff is an avid mountain biker. We hiked the rim to rim trail with him. When I showed him photos of this single track, he said, "Looks great. Let's go." That's the spirit! Looking forward to another northern Arizona adventure!
  Single track nirvana.   Arizona Trail near Jacob Lake, Arizona.  Kaibab Lodge, five miles from Grand Canyon entrance to the north rim. Elevation 8,770 feet, it's a beautiful spot to escape to when it's hot "below."  At Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint - bonus butterfly on the right!  Looking at the Saddle Mountain Wilderness. There's a trail into the canyon below - trailhead right behind us.
 Grand Canyon East Rim Viewpoint on the Arizona National Scenic Trail.  Sooooo many aspens! This will be a great place in autumn. 
 A journey through one of Earth's Seven Natural Wonders. Standard north → south route for Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day (North Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail)
Total Distance = 23.5 miles North Kaibab Trail = 14 miles/5,700 feet loss. Bright Angel Trail = 9.5 miles/4,350 feet gain. Note: I've seen various estimates of "net elevation gain" that are higher. Since there is not any major regaining of lost elevation, I am estimating gain by difference between Colorado River and south rim. Elevations: north rim = 8,200 feet, south rim at Bright Angel Trailhead = 6,850', Colorado river = 2,500'. Date Hiked: May 23, 2024 Total elapsed time: 10:58 hours. Geology: The deepest rocks are metamorphic Vishnu Basement rocks on the lower part of North Kaibab trail as it enters the Box and Phantom Ranch and at Colorado River (Brama Schist, granite intrusive volcanics, pegmatite and aplite dikes). These are crystalline rocks (1.7 billion years), formed during Early Proterozoic time when continents were colliding, causing compression and mountain-building (orogeny). Theses are jumbled, interlayered shists and gneisses. Rim to Rim Resources: NPS: Critical Backcountry Updates - Grand Canyon NPS: Grand Canyon Backcountry Trail Distances Arizona State University. North Kaibab Trail - Nature, Culture and History at the Grand Canyon. Considerations: Fred and I recommend anyone undertaking this hike should train and be able to walk at least 15 miles continuously and hike 4,000 feet of elevation gain. We hiked this 23 years ago with 100-degree temps at Phantom ranch which slowed us down, but we had experience hiking in hot weather. How We Trained for Rim to Rim In One Day (2024 and 2025)
"Endure. In enduring, grow strong." - Chris Avellone "It is a lovely and terrible wilderness, such a wilderness as Christ and the prophets went out into; harshly and beautifully colored, broken and worn until its bones are exposed . . . and in hidden corners and pockets under its cliffs the sudden poetry of springs." - Wallace Stegner  View of Grand Canyon from two miles below Bright Angel Trailhead  Jeff, Sue and Fred ready to go at the North Kaibab Trailhead at Grand Canyon's north rim, 6:00 am., temperature 41 degrees. Epic Adventure We did it! Three months of training on southern Utah trails, in St. George and Zion National Park, and on the Skyline Trail in Palm Springs helped Jeff, Fred and I conquer the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike. Two things helped us: training for distance and at least 4,000-foot of elevation gain, and we were lucky with weather. It was cooler than usual! To observe the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world from its rim is a memorable experience. But to walk all the way through the depths of it - almost 24 miles from north rim to south rim along the clear and roaring Bright Angel Creek is epic. Your ability to tolerate a 50 or 60-degree temperature variation, drink enough water, and climb steep, relentless switchbacks will be tested. We took longer to do this hike this time (just shy of 11 hours), compared to our last time 13 years ago (9:50). North Kaibab Trail → Phantom Ranch Lindy dropped us off at North Kaibab Trailhead on the north rim at 6:00 a.m. As we descended from a fir, spruce and ponderosa pine forest into a rocky color-layered paradise, she drove around to the south rim, descended 4 miles on the Bright Angel Trail to meet us later in the day. In the shadow of the north rim, we walked along verdant Roaring Springs Canyon to the bright yellow light below, reaching Supai Tunnel, the first restroom and water stop, at 1.7 miles. Wild roses bloomed against yellow and red walls. We didn't need a water re-fill until 5.4 miles down the trail at Manzanita Rest Area, a beautiful spot past Roaring Springs. We powered our way down the steep portion, through the wide Bright Angel Canyon, tracing the clear and loud Bright Angel Creek with its occasional waterfalls, hiking through Cottonwood Campground. The prickly pear were so full and healthy; it seemed the creek was flowing much more than we remember from our rim to rim hike 13 years ago. It appears the southwest has had more rainfall in the past few years. We hiked rim to rim 23 years ago and then again 13 years ago and it seems Bright Angel Creek was higher this year. We were happy to see Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon where we re-filled our water and made sure to drink electrolytes. The temperature was 85 degrees. We took 20 minutes in the shade to eat and muster the energy to start the long, warm and steep hike to the south rim. The dark red, brown and grey Vishnu Basement rocks are one of my favorites of this hike, as you enter the core of the Grand Canyon. It forms the rough, contorted, massive base for the prettier rock layers above. It's not often that you get to walk in some of the Earth's oldest rocks; in this case the Vishnu schists, gneiss and granite are 1.7 billion years old. You get to see the rapids of the green Colorado River through the mesh floor of the long suspension bridge as it passes a huge swirling eddy near the shore, delivering you to the Bright Angel Trail and a long, arduous hike out. Water stops along the North Kaibab Trail: distances from North Kaibab Trailhead. Grand Canyon Critical Backcountry Updates
 Walking through the north rim's highest rock strata: the Toroweap's cliff-forming limestone and the red siltstone and sandstone Hermit Formation (below).  North Kaibab Trail switchbacks through Roaring Springs Canyon, crosses it at bridge below, heads around cliffs to drop further down-canyon.  Jeff approaching bridge over Roaring Springs Canyon, constructed in 1966 after a flood. This marks the transition between Supai Formation and the Redwall Limestone rock units.   Fred on north rim  The Manzanita Rest Area, 5.4 miles from North Kaibab Trailhead, has pit toilets, water, shade and a lot of space for hikers to spread out and rest.  Bees love yucca blooms!  Bright Angel Creek - more water in it than our previous GC hikes, but northern Arizona/Southern Utah has had more snowfall in the past two years.  In Bright Angel Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail near Cottonwood Campground.   The "box" after Phantom Creek entrance into the Bright Angel Creek, on the left. Metamorphic Vishnu basement rocks surround.  Suspension bridge spanning the Colorado with the Grand Canyon's crystalline basement rocks surrounding, linking north and south rim trails. Phantom Ranch → Bright Angel Trail Water stops along the Bright Angel Trail
We finally reached Havasupai Gardens, our last water stop (we knew the resthouses above did not have water) with 4.7 more miles to go! Dousing my hat in the cold water from the "community" faucet and letting it drip down my head felt so good! Shortly after eyeing the south rim's steep cliffs above that will be our trail, we resumed and were excited to see Lindy, who had descended 4.5 miles to meet us. Climbing higher, along Garden Creek, legs are tired, yet the terrain gets more challenging. We step over countless old juniper logs and rock bars used to stabilize the trail on forever switchbacks. We are trying to make it in under 11 hours. Dozens of short-distance south rim hikers congest the last half-mile. Don't want to lose momentum. Endure and grow stronger! Lindy spotted an incredible sandstone boulder along the trail that has fossilized tracks in it. They are the oldest vertebrate tracks in the Grand Canyon and the earliest evidence of vertebrate animals walking on sand dunes. They date to 300 million years ago, when Arizona was a coastal plain near the equator. This article in Smithsonian has a great illustration of how this reptile walks laterally, creating the diagonal footprints: Fallen Boulder at Grand Canyon reveals Prehistoric Reptile Footprints.  Fossilized footprints found in Manakacha Formation - 313 million years old. And then the land above the canyon opens up and we arrive at the rim - WE'VE DONE IT!! We walk victoriously to the Bright Angel Trailhead sign where Lindy snaps our photo. Margaritas, beer, and burgers follow. I'm grateful we trained for this epic hike. I'm even more grateful that I am able to do this hike and witness this natural wonder - up close and personal, step after step, one foot in front of the other.
 Suspension bridge over the Colorado River. A short hike on the River Trail to the right takes you to Bright Angel Trail.  In the Grand Canyon's Vishnu crystalline basement rocks: Jeff and Fred heading along the Colorado River to Bright Angel Trail.  This may be a Duffel Service mule train that carries Bright Angel hikers' packs to Phantom Ranch. One company that provides this service is Xanterra.    Looking for shade, waiting to reach Havasupai Gardens, and looking ahead to the rim we get to climb on the Bright Angel.  We've finally met Lindy, who was hiking down from the south rim after driving around from the north rim! Look at those beautiful switchbacks above!    Fred somewhere on the Bright Angel Trail. He doesn't even look tired (I sure was!).  South Rim grandeur.  Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse is, you guessed it, 1.5 miles from the south rim. No water here this time.  Sue, Fred and Jeff celebrating on the south rim - 23.5 miles and almost 11 hours since start.  Hike Celebration on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Sue, Fred, Lindy and Jeff. Already planning the next challenge. |
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Sue and Fred
About this blogExploration documentaries – "explorumentaries" list trip stats and highlights of each hike or bike ride, often with some interesting history or geology. Years ago, I wrote these for friends and family to let them know what my husband, Fred and I were up to on weekends, and also to showcase the incredible land of the west.
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