On the Skyline Trail, one of the toughest in the U.S., because of its elevation gain. It treks from Palm Springs, California to the top of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station, located on the right side of the ridge above, in the steep section of trees to the left of the white crag (Coffman's Crag).
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Trip Stats: Skyline Trail to Long Valley and Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station via North Lykken Trail
Location: Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument. Begin in Palm Springs and end at Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, Mt. San Jacinto State Park. Distance/Elevation gain: 9.5 miles/8,000'. North Lykken Trailhead = 520'. Long Valley just over lip of ridge = 8,400' First Cactus to Clouds hike: October 29, 1993, led by Ray Wilson for Coachella Valley Hiking Club. Cactus to Clouds hike created by Sue Birnbaum and Ray Wilson. Distance/Elevation gain: North Lykken Trail (1.3 miles) + Skyline Trail (8.2 miles) = 9.5 miles total to Long Valley and tram station. Elevation gain = 8,000 feet. Trip Stats: Cactus to Clouds Hike via North Lykken Trail Distance: North Lykken Trail (1.3 miles) + Skyline Trail (8.2 miles) + Round Valley/Mt. San Jacinto Trail (5.5 miles) = 15 miles total to summit. Return to Tram Station for a total of 20.5 miles. Elevation gain = 10300'.
The New York Times Sue Birnbaum is quoted in an article on March 25, 2025 about the first ascent of Cactus to Clouds Challenge: 22 Miles on Foot, 10 minutes on a Tram: An "Extraordinary" Day Hike, by travel writer Dina Mishev. |
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Sue and Fred
A trip to Jumbo Rocks Campground in Joshua Tree National Monument 40 years ago sparked my passion for hiking, exploring, and learning about desert ecosystems. I met my husband Fred on Mt. San Jacinto. We've explored the American West together; we love this land and I hope to inspire you to get out and explore through my photographs and trip descriptions. In 1992, Ray Wilson and I conceived the first Cactus to Clouds hike which climbs over 10,000 feet in one day to the summit of Mt. San Jacinto near Palm Springs, California. To Subscribe to Explorumentary adventure blog and receive new posts by email: |
Now (2025) vs. Then (1990's): I'm not that Young Any More!
"I don't think I can do that again," I told Fred earlier this year while staring at the outrageously steep final climb of the Skyline Trail looming a high 4,000 feet above us in the clear blue desert sky. We had already climbed 4,000 feet from Palm Springs' desert floor, and now to look at that additional gain was intimidating. Plus, it's pretty much a commitment: you don't want to turn around and descend once you get up there. At least you know you have the tram to take you down.
The last time we hiked the Skyline Trail was in 1997 while we were doing the Cactus to Clouds Challenge. I remember vaguely hiking that section, now called "the traverse" and its steep switchbacks that pass over gullies that seem to go forever down the mountain. Coffman's Crag, a giant white granite monolith rises to the right of the traverse, a nearly vertical section through the forest of pines and huge boulders.
On this day, Fred and I were training on the Skyline for the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day hike, hiking up to 4,000 feet and then hiking back down to Palm Springs. If you live in the Coachella Valley, you would have the perfect trails on which to train for challenges that involve a lot of elevation gain and mileage, like the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike.
Our friends Lindy and Jeff, excited for the infamous Skyline adventure, gave us the motivation we needed to hike it after a 28-year absence. This epic and now world-famous trail, combined with North Lykken, one of its entrance trails (the other is the Palm Springs Museum Trail) climbs 8,000 feet in 9.5 miles. If you are completing the Cactus to Clouds hike, however, you would have another 5.5 miles and 2,400 feet of elevation to gain.
Earlier this year, we hiked Grand Canyon south rim to north rim in one day with friends Robin and Jeff, a super-fit mountain biker. As part of our training for Skyline, Lindy, Jeff, Fred and I almost summited Mt. Bangs near Mesquite, Nevada the week before, gaining 3,400 feet.
"I don't think I can do that again," I told Fred earlier this year while staring at the outrageously steep final climb of the Skyline Trail looming a high 4,000 feet above us in the clear blue desert sky. We had already climbed 4,000 feet from Palm Springs' desert floor, and now to look at that additional gain was intimidating. Plus, it's pretty much a commitment: you don't want to turn around and descend once you get up there. At least you know you have the tram to take you down.
The last time we hiked the Skyline Trail was in 1997 while we were doing the Cactus to Clouds Challenge. I remember vaguely hiking that section, now called "the traverse" and its steep switchbacks that pass over gullies that seem to go forever down the mountain. Coffman's Crag, a giant white granite monolith rises to the right of the traverse, a nearly vertical section through the forest of pines and huge boulders.
On this day, Fred and I were training on the Skyline for the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day hike, hiking up to 4,000 feet and then hiking back down to Palm Springs. If you live in the Coachella Valley, you would have the perfect trails on which to train for challenges that involve a lot of elevation gain and mileage, like the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike.
Our friends Lindy and Jeff, excited for the infamous Skyline adventure, gave us the motivation we needed to hike it after a 28-year absence. This epic and now world-famous trail, combined with North Lykken, one of its entrance trails (the other is the Palm Springs Museum Trail) climbs 8,000 feet in 9.5 miles. If you are completing the Cactus to Clouds hike, however, you would have another 5.5 miles and 2,400 feet of elevation to gain.
Earlier this year, we hiked Grand Canyon south rim to north rim in one day with friends Robin and Jeff, a super-fit mountain biker. As part of our training for Skyline, Lindy, Jeff, Fred and I almost summited Mt. Bangs near Mesquite, Nevada the week before, gaining 3,400 feet.
Skyline Trail vs. Cactus to Clouds Hike
Ray Wilson and I came up with the idea for the first Cactus to Clouds hike after we helped Bern Schwenn, a Sierra Club hike leader mark the upper reaches of Skyline Trail with yellow metal tags in the early 1990’s, when the Skyline Trail was faint. After we marked the Skyline, we topped the steep escarpment at the end of the trail and found ourselves on the forested floor of Long Valley near the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station. We realized that the ultimate challenge would be to continue to Mt. San Jacinto’s summit. Soon after, we hiked the entire route from Palm Springs to Mt. San Jacinto Peak, a 10,300' gain. We offered the Cactus to Clouds hike to members of the newly formed Coachella Valley Hiking Club in 1993, and Ray was the official hike leader (see photo below). We picked late October not only because it was Ray's birthday and he liked to celebrate with physical challenges, but it's also the optimum time of year for this hike. There's less heat on the Skyline, less risk of snow on the summit while still having 11 hours of daylight. Late October is usually pre-snow season in the San Jacinto Wilderness; however, on the Cactus to Clouds Challenge in 1996, we hiked through a few inches of new snow at the top 1,000 feet to the summit.
The photo below, from 1993 (using a film camera), shows the original six triumphant Cactus to Clouds hikers after climbing 10,300 feet to stand on Mt. San Jacinto's summit. Little did we know at that time that this ultimate hiking experience would end up on many a serious hiker's bucket list, and many runners, too. However, I've noticed on the internet that some people think that "Skyline" is synonymous with "Cactus to Clouds" (C2C) - it's not. Skyline Trail is the longest portion of the Cactus to Clouds hike. C2C also includes two additional trails: an entry at the bottom (either Museum Trail or North Lykken Trail) plus the Round Valley/Mt. San Jacinto Trail above it that gets you to the summit of Mt. San Jacinto. The Cactus to Clouds hike is a whole different animal because you can't take a break when you get to Long Valley via Skyline just yet. You sill have to conquer Mt. San Jacinto Peak and then back down to the tram station. Walking up the cement switchbacks to the station is really hard to do after gaining more than 10,300 feet!
Roger Keezer, one of the six hikers to finish the inaugural C2C, a dear friend with whom I shared many trail miles, cervezas and dinners, came up with the name "Cactus to Clouds." I have hiked Cactus to Clouds five times: our "test drive" in 1992, and in 1993, 1994, 1995, and 1997.
Ray Wilson and I came up with the idea for the first Cactus to Clouds hike after we helped Bern Schwenn, a Sierra Club hike leader mark the upper reaches of Skyline Trail with yellow metal tags in the early 1990’s, when the Skyline Trail was faint. After we marked the Skyline, we topped the steep escarpment at the end of the trail and found ourselves on the forested floor of Long Valley near the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station. We realized that the ultimate challenge would be to continue to Mt. San Jacinto’s summit. Soon after, we hiked the entire route from Palm Springs to Mt. San Jacinto Peak, a 10,300' gain. We offered the Cactus to Clouds hike to members of the newly formed Coachella Valley Hiking Club in 1993, and Ray was the official hike leader (see photo below). We picked late October not only because it was Ray's birthday and he liked to celebrate with physical challenges, but it's also the optimum time of year for this hike. There's less heat on the Skyline, less risk of snow on the summit while still having 11 hours of daylight. Late October is usually pre-snow season in the San Jacinto Wilderness; however, on the Cactus to Clouds Challenge in 1996, we hiked through a few inches of new snow at the top 1,000 feet to the summit.
The photo below, from 1993 (using a film camera), shows the original six triumphant Cactus to Clouds hikers after climbing 10,300 feet to stand on Mt. San Jacinto's summit. Little did we know at that time that this ultimate hiking experience would end up on many a serious hiker's bucket list, and many runners, too. However, I've noticed on the internet that some people think that "Skyline" is synonymous with "Cactus to Clouds" (C2C) - it's not. Skyline Trail is the longest portion of the Cactus to Clouds hike. C2C also includes two additional trails: an entry at the bottom (either Museum Trail or North Lykken Trail) plus the Round Valley/Mt. San Jacinto Trail above it that gets you to the summit of Mt. San Jacinto. The Cactus to Clouds hike is a whole different animal because you can't take a break when you get to Long Valley via Skyline just yet. You sill have to conquer Mt. San Jacinto Peak and then back down to the tram station. Walking up the cement switchbacks to the station is really hard to do after gaining more than 10,300 feet!
Roger Keezer, one of the six hikers to finish the inaugural C2C, a dear friend with whom I shared many trail miles, cervezas and dinners, came up with the name "Cactus to Clouds." I have hiked Cactus to Clouds five times: our "test drive" in 1992, and in 1993, 1994, 1995, and 1997.
1993
First Cactus to Clouds Challenge, Summit of Mt. San Jacinto, October 1993 From left to right: Sue Birnbaum, (forgot his name), Roger Keezer, Maria Keezer, Ray Wilson Seated in middle: Vickie Kearney |
2025
Summit of Mt. San Jacinto - hiked the day after we hiked Skyline Trail. From left to right: Sue Birnbaum, Lindy Greene, Vickie Kearney (seated), Fred Birnbaum, Jeff Greene, Scott Tanner (seated). |
Our Skyline Trail to Tram Hike - 2025 (starting at North Lykken trailhead)
Assured by Fred, trained from hikes back home, and excited to share the adventure with friends, we were back on the Skyline - this time to hike the whole thing! This time I felt confident I could conquer this beast, but was still worried about having enough strength to make that final straight-up push. And, I had strained my knee a few weeks ago, so I wore a knee brace for the first time in my 35 years of hiking.
The last time we climbed 8,000 feet was, well, 28 years ago when we hiked Cactus to Clouds.
So, the "crux" this time was not so much the physical demands of the final "traverse" section and it's 2,000-foot climb, but daring to have the confidence and strong mindset to get up it. If your knees and hips, heart and lungs aren't working as well as they did 28 years ago, you've got to rely more on mindset.
Since we would take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway down off the mountain, we figured we would take 7-8 hours to complete the 8,000-foot climb up North Lykken Trail and Skyline Trail. We actually completed it in 7:45 including breaks. We started at 7:00 a.m., but I felt that we could have started earlier because it got pretty warm in the desert chaparral section of the hike.
A herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep greeted us on the North Lykken Trail. The little ones were adorable as they tried to keep up with the herd that included a few nice rams with their great curling horns. At ~ 1.3 miles, we reached the intersection with the Skyline Trail and the "warning" boulder that states there's no water on the Skyline Trail. Hikers have died on the Skyline, some due to heat exhaustion. It was even closed during the hottest summer months last year. There are two rescue boxes on the trail that include first aid kits, water, and food. Also present are notes left by the Palm Springs Mounted Police to leave extra unopened water in the box if it can be spared by hikers.
We made great time - trying not to go too fast so we could reserve our energy for the final steep climb past Flat Rock. We planned on taking a short break every 1,000 feet of gain. The weather was perfect - late October is a great time to do this hike.
Finally above the lower Sonoran biome of creosote and brittlebush, above 2,000 feet, we entered the Upper Sonoran chaparral of scrub oak and some huge yuccas. This is where the trail penetrates a beautiful ribbonwood tree forest, and heads in a slight northwest direction, providing great views of the bare desert below.
We were feeling pretty good at our lunch break, but the top of Skyline seemed so far away. The promise of a post-hike beer and our comaraderie kept us going. It was hard, but we were going to make it. A brief stop at Rescue Box #2, and we were on our way.
Memories from past Cactus to Clouds hikes kept making me smile. From that first time we all sat triumphantly on Mt. San Jacinto's white boulders in 1993, to hiking C2C with Fred in 1997, and all the trail laughs, talks, sights, aching feet and celebratory beer, chips and salsa..... remembering a sunny, special time of my life.
In past Cactus to Clouds hikes, we would take a rest at Flat Rock, a smooth white granite wash bed, in preparation for the final steep push to Long Valley. This time we stormed past it, taking advantage of our pace and momentum. You don't fully understand how steep this section is until you start climbing its numerous, shallow switchbacks. I have to admire Lindy and Jeff's positive thinking and tenacity in getting up this section, because they had no idea what to expect!
Ascending the "traverse", the final steep section requires you to dig deep for strength and endurance reserves at a time when your quads are burning, your breath gets more intense as you ascend each 1,000 feet quickly. Combine a steep grade at 7,000-foot elevation, you get your heart pounding.
Now I knew I could make it; actually I knew when we hit Flat Rock. It was still pretty hard, but I was feeling good. Concentrating on where the trail was took my mind off whatever pain I was having. In the past, the "traverse" of the Skyline was less pronounced but still straightforward; now, the switchbacks are cut with extra trails and some "social" trails wander off of the main one.
I kept looking for the sun. This I remember clearly from past Skyline hikes, for once you see it over the ridge, you are only one hundred feet or so from the top. We emerged jubilant from the dark, steep forest at Grubbs Notch and onto the bright, flat open Long Valley. No one there to greet or applaud us, just the towering Ponderosa pines standing by.
Never does a beer taste so good as after a long hike. We all celebrated at the Pines Café in the tram station, then took the tram down to the low desert and busy Palm Springs. I was happy that Fred and I had made it, but especially elated for Jeff and Lindy.
Hmmm, I'm already thinking of hiking Cactus to Clouds #6. Why not, life is short! Plus I've got great friends to do it with. Better not wait until I'm too old!
Assured by Fred, trained from hikes back home, and excited to share the adventure with friends, we were back on the Skyline - this time to hike the whole thing! This time I felt confident I could conquer this beast, but was still worried about having enough strength to make that final straight-up push. And, I had strained my knee a few weeks ago, so I wore a knee brace for the first time in my 35 years of hiking.
The last time we climbed 8,000 feet was, well, 28 years ago when we hiked Cactus to Clouds.
So, the "crux" this time was not so much the physical demands of the final "traverse" section and it's 2,000-foot climb, but daring to have the confidence and strong mindset to get up it. If your knees and hips, heart and lungs aren't working as well as they did 28 years ago, you've got to rely more on mindset.
Since we would take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway down off the mountain, we figured we would take 7-8 hours to complete the 8,000-foot climb up North Lykken Trail and Skyline Trail. We actually completed it in 7:45 including breaks. We started at 7:00 a.m., but I felt that we could have started earlier because it got pretty warm in the desert chaparral section of the hike.
A herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep greeted us on the North Lykken Trail. The little ones were adorable as they tried to keep up with the herd that included a few nice rams with their great curling horns. At ~ 1.3 miles, we reached the intersection with the Skyline Trail and the "warning" boulder that states there's no water on the Skyline Trail. Hikers have died on the Skyline, some due to heat exhaustion. It was even closed during the hottest summer months last year. There are two rescue boxes on the trail that include first aid kits, water, and food. Also present are notes left by the Palm Springs Mounted Police to leave extra unopened water in the box if it can be spared by hikers.
We made great time - trying not to go too fast so we could reserve our energy for the final steep climb past Flat Rock. We planned on taking a short break every 1,000 feet of gain. The weather was perfect - late October is a great time to do this hike.
Finally above the lower Sonoran biome of creosote and brittlebush, above 2,000 feet, we entered the Upper Sonoran chaparral of scrub oak and some huge yuccas. This is where the trail penetrates a beautiful ribbonwood tree forest, and heads in a slight northwest direction, providing great views of the bare desert below.
We were feeling pretty good at our lunch break, but the top of Skyline seemed so far away. The promise of a post-hike beer and our comaraderie kept us going. It was hard, but we were going to make it. A brief stop at Rescue Box #2, and we were on our way.
Memories from past Cactus to Clouds hikes kept making me smile. From that first time we all sat triumphantly on Mt. San Jacinto's white boulders in 1993, to hiking C2C with Fred in 1997, and all the trail laughs, talks, sights, aching feet and celebratory beer, chips and salsa..... remembering a sunny, special time of my life.
In past Cactus to Clouds hikes, we would take a rest at Flat Rock, a smooth white granite wash bed, in preparation for the final steep push to Long Valley. This time we stormed past it, taking advantage of our pace and momentum. You don't fully understand how steep this section is until you start climbing its numerous, shallow switchbacks. I have to admire Lindy and Jeff's positive thinking and tenacity in getting up this section, because they had no idea what to expect!
Ascending the "traverse", the final steep section requires you to dig deep for strength and endurance reserves at a time when your quads are burning, your breath gets more intense as you ascend each 1,000 feet quickly. Combine a steep grade at 7,000-foot elevation, you get your heart pounding.
Now I knew I could make it; actually I knew when we hit Flat Rock. It was still pretty hard, but I was feeling good. Concentrating on where the trail was took my mind off whatever pain I was having. In the past, the "traverse" of the Skyline was less pronounced but still straightforward; now, the switchbacks are cut with extra trails and some "social" trails wander off of the main one.
I kept looking for the sun. This I remember clearly from past Skyline hikes, for once you see it over the ridge, you are only one hundred feet or so from the top. We emerged jubilant from the dark, steep forest at Grubbs Notch and onto the bright, flat open Long Valley. No one there to greet or applaud us, just the towering Ponderosa pines standing by.
Never does a beer taste so good as after a long hike. We all celebrated at the Pines Café in the tram station, then took the tram down to the low desert and busy Palm Springs. I was happy that Fred and I had made it, but especially elated for Jeff and Lindy.
Hmmm, I'm already thinking of hiking Cactus to Clouds #6. Why not, life is short! Plus I've got great friends to do it with. Better not wait until I'm too old!
The Skyline Trail is a serious endeavor. There's at least three signs warning about extreme desert heat and no water on the trail. Rescue Box 1 is located about one mile from the Skyline/Museum/North Lykken trail intersection. I noticed the white paint on the warning boulder next to Lindy has faded over the years. The geologic information that names the stratigraphic unit that the lower Skyline trail traverses is from Rock'd app. Higher up, you reach granite units.
Jeff and Lindy on North Lykken Trail.
Images of Desert Bighorn Sheep on Skyline Trail - March 2020.
We're gettin' up there on the Skyline! At about four miles into the hike, you see your destination - the top of the ridge ahead! All you have to do is hike that green forested chute above Lindy's head in the last photo.
Nearing the 4,000-foot elevation point on the Skyline.
Rescue Box #2, about 4 miles from the Skyline Trail intersection. The steep "traverse" section (just above Jeff's head to the left) seems to keep taunting us, taking forever to get there!
Skyline Trail in the spring: top left and bottom right photos are of a ribbonwood tree.
"Flat Rock" - about 5 miles from Skyline Trail intersection. This is a familiar landmark on the Skyline Trail, for you know you are on the home stretch when you reach this. From here, it's straight up to Long Valley and the tram.
The shrubby terrain after Flat Rock and a look out onto Coachella Valley - North Palm Springs and Desert Hot Springs.
Entering the "traverse" section which is super steep - it traverses the ridge towards Coffman's Crag - the landmark that signifies you are almost done with this hike!
Flashback to 1993: Maria Keezer and another Cactus to Clouds hiker (I forgot his name) taking a break with Coffman's Crag looming behind them on the Skyline Trail.
Back to 2025: Getting up those steep final switchbacks and looking for the sun over the edge of the ridge.
There it is! Grubbs Notch and the sun and the end of the Skyline Trail!
Celebrating at the top of the Skyline: 8,000 feet just climbed, from desert floor to coniferous forest.
Fred, Lindy, Sue and Jeff.
Time for a beer at the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station!
Time for a beer at the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Mountain Station!
Victory at the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway!