The Maine Coast, Lake Winnipesaukee and the Best Lobster Roll Ever!

Trading western summits for eastern maritime and lakefront fun.

Popham Beach State Park, mid-coast Maine.

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Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire
​Fred and I stepped out of our land-locked, dry desert comfort zone to explore lush New Hampshire and Maine's coast for Fourth of July when we visited our friends Fred and Janet at their home on gorgeous Lake Winnipesaukee (I know - two Freds!). It was a stellar visit for so many reasons:  a spectacular hike, oysters, the best lobster roll, champagne, boat rides and swimming in a magnificent lake, fireworks, and Maine sightseeing.  The best part was getting to spend some time with our friends and Sophie, their Australian shepherd.  We're already talking about going back!

The two Freds on Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire

For those who love dogs:  Sophie is a Red Merle Australian shepherd, known for their intelligence and lively personalities.  I was amazed that she can go and get the correct toy almost every time when commanded.  "Merle" refers to the coat's patterns; in this case it is "marbled."

​We hiked the spectacular Mount Lafayette/Mount Lincoln loop in the White Mountains, a route that rises steeply out of Franconia Notch in New Hampshire to look out over the northern peaks of the state, and treks over the Appalachian Trail.  It is spectacular!  A bonus was the succession of beautiful waterfalls - one after the other - on Falling Waters Trail.

From our vantage point on Lake Winnipesaukee we saw simultaneous firework shows from the nearby towns of Wolfeboro and Meredith on the Fourth of July, as boats whizzed back and forth.  

"Smile of the Great Spirit" and "Beautiful Water in a High Place" are two translations of the indigenous Abenaki peoples' word for Winnipesaukee.  There's actually a lot of interpretations for what this word means.

I'd never get tired of the beauty of Lake Winnipesaukee at sunset:  a few motorboats skimming slowly in the distance and the yellow and orange sky framed by evening clouds.  It's so picturesque with wooded shores and lots of islands and coves.  Fred and Janet took us on motorboat tours of the lake.  I have a suspicion I'll be longing for that exhilarating coolness next time I'm hiking through a hot desert.

Sophie, a Red Merle Australian shepherd on the banks of Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire.
"Smart Sophie" is my nickname for this awesome dog!

Cloudland Falls on Falling Waters Trail, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire.

Sunset on Lake Winnipesaukee

Beach Rose on the coast of Maine

Creek near Sandwich, New Hampshire.

Bath, Maine - Home of the Best Shipbuilders in the World
Bath Heritage Days Festival was in full swing when we arrived to this small town, home of Bath Iron Works, a huge shipyard founded in 1884.   American flag bunting hung from Bath City Hall, built in 1929.  Performers, a ferris wheel, cotton candy, and carnival games lined Kennebec River over which the Sagadahoc Bridge spanned, bringing Highway 1 to Wiscasset.  Downtown's picturesque Front Street with its ice cream shop, drugstore and bars brought me back to past Fourth of July celebrations many moons ago.  

​We walked Popham Beach in Phippsburg, Maine, south of Bath, on a foggy day.  On a clear day we would have seen Fox and Wood Islands offshore, but the fog made the shore so beautiful and mysterious as two surfers emerged from it, paddling their boards.  Wild roses and grasses grew on sand dunes.  Two bad storms earlier this year caused major damage to this beach that altered the waterway, eroded 10 feet of dunes and pulled picnic areas out to sea.

You wouldn't think Confederate battleships would venture to this seemingly obscure beach on an Atlantic shore with many river outlets, but Popham Beach's significance for war strategy lies in its proximity to Bath and Maine's capital, Augusta.  Popham Beach lies at the mouth of the Kennebec River, less than 15 miles from upriver Bath, where it was feared the Confederates would destroy shipbuilding yards if they gained access to the Kennebec River.

The  imposing Civil War-era Fort Popham was built with 36 cannon casements to defend the Kennebec.  It's an impressive structure built from huge local granite blocks forming 30-foot high walls.  Inside it feels like a dungeon might - cold, dark and moist.  A family with kids climbing up and down granite spiral staircases and kicking around a soccer ball made it feel less intimidating.

Ah - YUM!  Our introduction to Bath, Maine - OystHERS Raw Bar and Bubbly along the Kennebec River.

Bath City Hall decorated for the Fourth of July and Bath Heritage Festival.
The clock on the left is a Bath landmark.  In 1915, the owner of Bath's Hallet's Drug Store, Fred Cox bought it in Boston, when he saw a "for sale" sign on it.  In 1964, when the new owners sold the clock to a Harry Crooker, who intended on putting the clock elsewhere, Bath residents created a public outcry.  Bath had to maintain the clock as a condition for keeping it.

This is a really cool city!  Very friendly people.

General Dynamics Bath Iron Works on the Kennebec River.
On July 27, 2024 the guided missile destroyer USS Patrick Gallagher was christened here.  Gallagher was an Irish citizen living in Long Island, New York.  He enlisted in the US Marines to fight in Vietnam war, where he received a Navy Cross for jumping on a grenade to protect his fellow soldiers.  He was able to toss the grenade into a river before it blew up.  He was killed in a firefight 6 months later.

Popham Beach State Park at the mouth of the Kennebec River on Maine Coast.

Georgetown, south of Bath.

Byrnes Irish Pub in Bath.
Opened in 2008 to a "great festive crowd, where beer flowed, music played and a tradition was born."

Kicking the ball around in the enormous Civil War era Fort Popham - why not?

The Best Lobster Roll
The "welcome book" at our excellent Bath Airbnb recommended The Five Islands Lobster Company in Georgetown, Maine.  I've had a few lobster rolls in my life, but this one was THE best!  This lobster shack is located in the fishing village of Five Islands in the town of Georgetown, south of Bath.  The waters there are  among the deepest and coldest on Maine's coast, which means really excellent lobsters.  I guess we just missed the "blessing of the fleet," a tradition in which the local clergy pray for a safe and bountiful season.

Dining is outside on the wharf, looking at beautiful scenery.  BYOB.

16 Essential Maine Lobster Rolls - Eater - Maine

We are talking about making this an annual trip.  So much to explore in New Hampshire and Maine!   People are happy and very friendly.  Already looking forward to my next lobster roll and White Mountain hike.

 

Requirements for the Best Lobster Roll:  thin, buttered inexpensive bread overloaded with lobster caught only a few feet away on that day, with minimal mayo and crispy fries!

The fishing village at Five Islands - a really popular place to eat fresh seafood in Georgetown, Maine.

The view from our picnic table at Five Islands Lobster Company.
"The prettiest harbor in Maine" is what some call this shore.

Georgetown, Maine wharf.  Five Islands Lobster Company is located a few feet away.

A few New England signs.

Popham Beach State Park

Maybe these Bath residents are appreciating summer by bringing out what has been indoors for so many months!?

Captain and mates aboard a cruise in Boothbay Harbor.
If the caught lobster's carapace (from rear of eye socket to end of main body shell) is less than 3.25 inches, it must go back into the sea.  This conservation helps to safeguard the lobster population.

Ram Island Light Station, just south of Boothbay Harbor, Maine.
​Commissioned in 1883.